Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Extended Cab Door Won't Latch Properly
Jun 28, 2013
I noticed yesterday after using my drivers side rear door that i really have to force the door shut to have it latch properly. It has always needed a little more force than usual to shut but not I never had to grip the side of the door and force it like I'm gonna punch the side of the truck. After its latched the top is solid and doesn't budge but the bottom seems to be able to move a little if i grab it and try and wiggle it.
I am not sure if it is misaligned or what but its driving me crazy, is there something I should look for in particular? The passenger side shuts like an average door and doesn't really require a lot of force to shut but the drivers side has been like that since the day my dad picked it up new except now its really bad. I tried the search function but I could only find threads about door stuck shut not doors that wont shut.
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1999 F250 extended cab back doors won't open. The passenger side stopped opening right after I purchased it a few months back (168K miles). I removed the door panels and reached my hand in feeling around. I know the latch releases are activated by cables but cannot figure out how they work. While feeling and pulling on the cables one became dislodged from its holder. The driver's side stopped opening yesterday . Do the cables stretch, break, or what? Or are the holders the issue? Is there an illustration that shows how the cables are run and connected?
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I have a 2008 F250 that the tailgate has always been real easy to open and close until the other day I could not get it to latch so i slammed it and it did latch and it worked a few days but now it won't latch at all. I can open and close the latch with the tailgate down but nothing I do will make it latch in place. I've tried spraying with PB blaster it didn't work. Not sure if its out of adjustment or what.
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99 F350 7.3l with 4R100 trans. About a month ago I took out a monster trans that had about 60k on it and it was burnt up. No warranty. ..customer bought another monster. After the install when going into 4th the torque converter would instantly lock making it feel as though the truck was falling on its face. Monster had me do some data logging and from the info I provided they determined it had a bad solenoid pack. They sent a new one out...when I went to install the new pack I noticed when I dropped the pan that the fluid was iridescent looking...a bolt for the valve body was in the bottom of the pan and lots of material stuck to the magnets....
Needless to say that trans only lasted about 2 weeks after putting the solenoid pack in. Fast forward to today..got trans number 3 from monster under warranty. After the install everything seemed good. About 30 mins into highway driving the od light starts flashing. ..subsequently the P0741 code. I did put 2 new wire pigtails on the front and rear speed sensors. The pigtails were a ford service part but they were a bit different in design. I am pretty sure the wires are correctly oriented..if not would this cause the issue. I really am leaning towards a bad solenoid pack again. My buddy thinks the TC isn't seated properly....where do I start? Also has an edge programmer on it..but it's been on the same map all this time
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I have a 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel and my AC isn't working properly. On Max AC as you're driving it would be ok and then it would be warm and then cold and then warm and then cold and so on. I've noticed that the clutch stays engaged as well. I've never seen it disengage. The freon is at the level it needs to be. Then just a few days ago, if you have it on Max and High the air disappears from the vents and you hear a noise somewhere in the dash on the passenger side. I think something might have come off?? What's wrong with my AC with it going from cold to warm constantly? I heard that maybe clutch has too big of a gap?? I have almost 200,000 miles on it.
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the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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It's been happening the last week or so, on and off. I'll open the door and close it and the cab light won't go off and the red DOOR AJAR light on the dash won't go off. The last two times it went off after about a minute. Now I don't care about it in the daytime, but at night it's a real pain. How do these sensors work? I see the little plastic lever on the rear door (ext. cab), but it can happen when I open just one of the doors. Is there a centralized receiver for both the door sensors?
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My outside, driver side front door handle is busted. I was about to order a new one from Rock Auto, and came across this-
DORMAN Part # 80645 {#7C3Z3622405APPTM} Front Left; Paint To Match
DORMAN Part # 79306 {Click Info Link for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Front Left; Black; Textured Finish; From 3/15/99
What is the difference here? Is something different on the early 99's?
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The door on my trailer plug is broken. I can't seem to find just the door. Need to get one without having to buy the whole plug assembly?
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Where is the door chime? I just want to remove it. My truck is a 2014 e350.
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I figured out how to go from the passenger door to in the cab, but how do you do it on the driver's side? The area is pretty "busy" around the emergency brake area.
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How do you get the door chime to go away when the key is still in the ignition?
Also, how do stop the driver seat from moving every time the key is removed?
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The red door panel light that comes on when the door is open did not work on my 04 F250 Lariat. I removed the door panel to fine there is no whires for a light. My 01 xlt has them, were they a option?
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All 4 crew cab door locks are not working...I see and hear them moving a little but not enough to get the job done.....Ive read a good fix on this forum but have a few questions...... 1. Could the problem be in the switch or wires ... 2. If I try to fix---do I need to fix all doors or is one door somehow messing the other up.
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How to disconnect the door chime? I like to keep my drivers door open while I listen to the radio and it would be nice to not have the annoying chime ring.
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Where are the door sensors located?
The ones that turn the light and off when you open and close the doors.
It use to be switches on the old trucks and cars.
But on my 2006 F-250 I can find anything that seems to do that function, nor is anything mentioned in the repair manuel.
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Going to be picking up a 2014 bed soon. I have one rusted cab corner and both door bottoms are rusted I really can't buy new doors but I can replace the cab corner. What should I do about the door rust? My plan is to use monstaliner on the entire truck in a dark grey color. Any way to keep it from rusting any farther?
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All my door locks stopped working in my 2008 F250 Crew Fx4. Locks do not work from a driver or pass. door, key fob, or door keyless pad. When you hit any of the switches you can hear a relay type sound in the SJB.
There was some sort of failure because we could smell it. But I am not sure if it was the SJB that failed or a wire between the SJB and the lock motors.
Looking for a wiring diagram of the door lock circuit? And/or know how to troubleshoot to find the bad wire or if it is the SJB that failed.
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The rear doors on my super cab rattle like there is no tomorrow. It is the panels rattling. There has been a lot of discussion about the doors and the way they latch being the problem with the typical rattle and cluck doors.
Have to take off the panels to see if they can be dampened in anyway? Where are the fasteners keeping the panel on?
I am about to take the panel off and leave them off. Some days I laugh, some days I cry. My truck has 90K miles on it and they have clanged and banged since day one.
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