Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Excessive Blue Smoke After Heavy Acceleration
Mar 19, 2017
I have installed a delete kit and a H&S chip on my 2009 F350 6.4 powerstroke , I installed the mild tune and run in street level. When I accelerate fast from 20 to 70 it puts out a little black smoke but as soon as I let off to maintain speed it starts blue smoke really thick and runs rough , it will eventually stop after 5 or so miles but if I accelerate it will puff blue each time for a bit longer. What could be the issue?
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I was towing a 16' Carmate Box trailer (empty), in tow/Haul mode, through the mountains on the PA turnpike. On an uphill section, 70 mph, suddenly blue smoke was pouring out of the back of the truck. I immediately slowed to about 50mph and pulled over at the next opportunity, about a mile. The bottom of the trans pan was coated with fluid, mostly on left side and the exhaust crossover pipe was smoking. Gauges were all normal. Ambient temp was 90F.
I drove another 40 miles, mostly about 60 mph. No problems. When I started climbing in elevation, and hit 70mph again, the smoke started again. I pulled over again and crawled under to fine the crossover pipe in flames. I grabbed a rag and beat out the flames. Fluid was red. Gauges were normal again. Once I disconnected the trailer, I can find no leaks. Snugged pan bolts. I cannot duplicated the problem without the load and speed.
Background: 2005 Crewcab, 5.4, 5R110 trans, 3.73. 416,000 miles, I have towed about 50K miles of that. Trans always ran great. Never replaced.
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I have a 2008 6.4L F-250 and occasionally when I come to a stop I can see a faint white smoke coming out from under the truck and the hood. The smoke has a heavy diesel exhaust smell. When I step on the pedal nothing comes from the exhaust and it does not happen all the time. What is going on?
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I have a 99 350 sd 7.3 low power black smoke sets a p1211 under heavy throttle. Check icp on scanner under heavy throttle falls from 1900s to mid 1700s ipr duty cycle runs about 62% wanting to know if I am looking for a hpop problem or injector issue...
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Best truck I ever had but around 200k would occasionally blow a bunch of smoke when pulling a heavy load.
My 2000 f 350 xlt triton v8 has done the same thing a couple times (about 200k miles).
The (cough) "truck expert" at my local dealer has never seen that before but its happened in 2 different trucks for me. It never caused a problem other than scaring me.
I sold the 02 last year when i got a 2011 f 250--it was 12 years and 300k miles old and never was hospitalized except for a fuel pump due to my negligence of filter.
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Ok, I have owned my truck for almost a year and it has 151,000 miles. I have noticed on a few occasions puffs of blue smoke and especially at night in the headlights behind me I notice a lot of smoke when I'm getting into the throttle hard. Under normal driving conditions I don't usually see anything.
Today I noticed it when I was backing my camper(8000lbs) up a small hill onto the side of my garage. It was puffing blue pretty good going up the hill while it was under load.
I have no check engine light on, the truck seems to be running fine. My oil consumption is about 2 quarts every 3-4000 miles. I tried the blow by test with the oil cap but besides some smoke out the filler neck no problems... I don't know very much about diesels so for me to try and trouble shoot this is a problem.
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My 2006 F-250 (6.0 Diesel) started blowing black smoke under acceleration yesterday. It has 181k miles on it now. No loss of power, no rough idle, no smoke unless there's a load on the engine like accelerating, but then it doesn't matter if it's 1500 or 3000RPM, just the higher the RPM the more smoke it blows from the exhaust, dark black.
The truck has ARP headstuds, no programmer. Replaced both batteries and the A/C system about 2 weeks ago. About 3000 miles ago it got new glow plugs & harnesses, new alternator, all fluids changed, new aftermarket EGR cooler, new EGR valve, new turbo & actuator, new EBP sensor, new HPOP incl pipes and IPR.
Trucks starts up just fine, runs normal, just yesterday going down the Freeway about 65mph I noticed it started smoking black going up a hill, then smoke went away going downhill... Now every time I accelerate it's smoking black. Taking off from a stop sign it made a little puff of white smoke then went back to black smoke, but that only happened once.
Where I should start looking? No codes so far. But I have an AutoXRay EZ-Scan 6000, what sensors do I need to look at?
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I had a post a couple of months ago about this E350 van I purchased with the 7.3. It would leave me stranded every few weeks and I replaced the injector oil pressure sensor and the camshaft position sensor. This truck has a intermittent running problem that cannot be pinned down to hot or cold.
It runs and idles well but sometimes during acceleration it will start to flatten out and smoke out the exhaust. Giving more accelerator pedal powers through the flat spot and the truck runs smooth. It does not do it every time. It does it hot or cold, wet or dry, city or highway, If this was a gas engine I would be replacing the fuel pump or checking a fuel starvation issue but the white smoke tells me that it has unburned fuel.
A cylinder contribution test passes fine. I monitored engine data with a Snap On Verus pro and compared oil pressures with another 03 7.3 I have and they are too close to the same. It starts fine, no issues there. It may take off great one time and buck and smoke the next. I swapped out the throttle position sensor with the other 7.3 and no change. I swapped out the injector control module and no change.
I've thought about injector Orings but I would think the problem would be consistent. I've changed engine oil, checked fuel pressure, changed fuel filter, and drained the fuel system to be sure no water is in the separator. This engine was rebuilt about 30k miles ago. If you floor the accelerator in park it will rev up, flatten out, smoke and buck for about 2-3 seconds, and then take off like normal. I pulled a trailer with it a couple of days ago and wasn't impressed at all. I have a 6.5 GM that seems to have more power than this.
I thought maybe a sticking injector and I added a half gallon of two cycle oil to the fuel to see if that might work. It hasn't. It just seems like it is flooding at a certain rpm and clears itself after a couple of seconds. There are no codes being thrown in the pcm. I am at a loss.
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I have a 2005 F250 6.0.. I'm the third owner, only 146,000 miles on it. Had most of the front end replaced. Ball joints, tie rod ends, track bar bushing, front end alignment done...
Still likes to walk as I call it side to side while driving down the road. Factory size tires, factory rims. A little excessive movement in steering wheel while driving, side to side and not transferring to pitmen arm. So I think the gear box shot. Got to looking closer and the power steering box has a re-manufactured sticker on it, so thought about rebuilding it. I do not know where previous owner got gear box at.
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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My truck 00' 7.3 255k is smoking white. It's not thick its more of a white haze. Sometimes it does it sometimes it doesn't. It has a 6637 intake, exhaust, and wicked wheel. No tuner or such. Im thinking either the turbo is going out or maybe a leaky injector? Just checked the turbo wheel and it has a little side to side play. On start up itll puff white then go away but then under heavy acceleration on occasion there is a haze of white then goes to haze of black. It also feels like the truck is lacking some power. There is no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. Not consuming oil or coolant. And there is no excessive pressure coming out of the oil fill.
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I have an issue with a truck I recently purchased. I have a vibration that starts around 50, feels like a wobbling vibration. Than once I hit 75 it feels like the truck is going to fall apart. Heavy rumbling.
It's a Ford F-350 dually extended cab. With 115,000 miles on it.
I took it to the shop to balance out the wheels and all the wheels needed atleast 2 oz of weighs on each side. Some have as much as 4.75 oz on one side. Is it possible that I need 6 brand new rims?
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It appears it is mostly surface rust and am looking for something relatively simple to fix it. I would prefer to use something in aerosol cans since it is small amount of total area, maybe Rustoleum products?
I will attempt to remove as much of the rust as possible with circular wire brush on drill but feel there will still be little crevices that I won't be able to fully clean.
I'm also interested in knowing what I should use to harden the surface to prevent the excessive chipping of paint in this area.
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I got 2000 tdi with 270000km on it and have a few issues with it and am looking for some information before i start doing some work to it.
First problem excessive blue smoke on start up also runs ruff tell it warms up.
Second the is a screeching noise on start up some times. happens most of the time when the car is cold.
Third sounds like something is dragging or rattling but i have checked and there is i can see.
Fourth when the clutch is in and the brake is on the car runs ruff at idle. i think it has something to do with vacuum used for the brake booster but not sure.
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06 F250 6.0 CCSB 4x4 163K Truck was in a pass side wreck about three weeks ago. Aside from bumper, head light, etc I had to replace the track bar and then I had the alignment done. Mech said the steering was loose and was either the steering box or column.
PROBLEM: Truck drove and parked fine last night, I went to leave the driveway this morning and I had to turn the wheel full right while backing up. The wheel locked up and wouldn't turn back to the left to straighten out. Hood wouldn't pop either to check anything
I crawled under the truck, the belt was in place and I didn't see any power steering fluid leaking. Thinking it was a PS problem and the hood not opening, I basically floored it and yanked on the wheel and it broke loose. Also, for what ever reason the hood opened after that
Now the steering is heavy and the wheel doesn't center on it's own. It will stay turned when I let go of the wheel. Scared that it would happen I didn't try turning it full lock on the way to work. but it happened again exiting the parking lot, again full right lock and the wheel stuck.
I managed to yank the wheel to the left again and I heard a distinct pop from what I'm sure was the pass side wheel area.
The PS fluid is dark and I'll figure out how to change it. I've read issues from the U-joints, ball joints, Steering box, steering stabilizer, and failing PS pump could all lead to this. Being the truck had a pass side fender bender, and I'm pretty sure the pop sound came from the pass side how do I check all of these items.
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I did the HID headlight swap about a month and a half ago. Driving tonight about an hour away in heavy constant rain my headlights have gone out... They have flickered. They have gone in and out a couple times but end up off. Any Quick fix????
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My '05 F350 PSD has developed a pretty bad vibration most noticeable above 40mph but only under acceleration. As soon as i hit speed and let off the gas its gone but if i accelerate again to pick up the speed i lost its back. Haven't looked into it too much yet as i was busy all weekend and drove the Expy but I did get down there and don't have an obviously bad u-joint or carrier bearing. I'm also gonna see if i popped off a driveline weight or something.
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2003 F-250 SD 7.3L Supercab
Problem 1: Right rear
Occasional smell of heavy grease, white smoke billowing out from under wheel well (once), black fluid leaking from lower area of caliper. Told it could be axle seal or caliper. I'm leaning toward axle since the caliper is only 1 yr old (NAPA OEM).
Oddly, I also notice a loud, piercing screech when going around traffic circles or exit ramp clovers to the right. I thought this was my trailer until it did the same thing without it.
Axle or Caliper?
Problem 2: Left front
Local mech advised the bleeder valve is broken off in to the unit and cannot be simply replaced. Insists it needs whole caliper. If pedal is all the way up there is a temporary breaking capability then it slowly creeps to the floorboard, hits a brick, and keeps rolling. Replaced master cylinder a few months ago when it same. Drove it for the last 2 weeks and problem is back.
Removing broke-off bleeder valve instead of replacing cals?
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I have a 2000 SD F250, gasser, auto. Last week I pulled a heavy load and developed a tranny fluid leak. The fluid appears to be coming from what looks like a freeze plug on the bottom of the casing forward of the (torque converter?) pan . Is that plug easily replaced by a DYIer. Small leak. 150K on the motor. First time it has leaked. Heaviest load I've pulled.
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Just bought this '08 F250 CCSB 4X4 5.4 Problem is the steering seems heavy, it tends to wander at higher speeds and won't return to center after a turn. I've searched on here and found a few possibilities (axle u joints, ball joints, steering gear, etc). I have an appointment with the dealer on Friday to fix it under warranty but he is convinced it's the u joints in the steering shaft seizing. When my F150 steering shaft began to seize, it would be hard to turn then break free then be hard then break free and this is not what is happening on the SD. I haven't had a chance to check the front end myself but not sure how you would check the axle u joints if there was no play in them. How would you check to see if they were seizing up.
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