Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Erratic Changing Of Directions Of Air
Jul 31, 2015
I have erratic changing of directions of the air control. It'll be on ac it will then change to feet or defrost. then stay on that for a while and flip again. It'll then stay on that one( usually vents). I'm guessing the selector switch or the vacuum egr valve.
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I'm having an issue on my 2002 F350 7.3. Today I hop in it and drive off I notice my speedometer stopped working. My overdrive light on the shifter started flashing. The trans seems like its not shifting correctly. It will eventually shift into overdrive but not always. Also now when I start off my fuel gauge raises and when I come to a stop it drops all the way to E and causes the ding and fuel light to light up. I figured this was all due to the VSS being bad. So I drove over to Autozone bought another VSS and a cheap tool set and changed it in the parking lot. No dice. I do have a scanner to pull the trans code but its late and I just got home.
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I have owned an 03 Excursion that I have had since last November that has started to feel like the steering is badly broken for a few hundred feet some times and then goes back to normal. It will do it some times after taking a corner and then suddenly there is a 1/4 turn play in the front and its wondering in the lane as I correct it back and forth and then it stops and goes back to normal. I've checked it and it all seems good and tight. The truck is stock height and has stock size wheels....
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My dads 05 f250 6.0 PSD. He says he'll take off in the morning and the fuel gauge will randomly drop to empty and trigger the low fuel light, but then also the Check Engine Light will come on. My brother did a code scan and no codes come up. Where we should be looking to remedy this one?
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The truck belongs to a very good customer of mine and is a 05 f350sd 6.0 td with 5r110 torqshift tranny. The vehicle presents with these symptoms and codes....
-there is a delay from p to r and its intermittent, sometimes it will be in a weak reverse where it wont creep unless you give it some gas, sometimes it will hit reverse hard after this. sometimes it bangs reverse
-there is a delay into drive intermittently with the same symptoms as reverse where sometimes it bangs and sometimes it will take a little throttle to get it moving
-once the trans is hot (operating temperature) it has trouble downshifting. my solus tells me sometimes it tries to start off in 3 or 5 then sometimes it will bang back down into first and almost chirp tire with little throttle input
-tow haul light will flash after several miles and then it only has 1-2-3-4 no 5-6. then the starting off symptoms get worse
-throws codes for
p0766 shift sol d performance/stuck
p2701 friction element b apply time range/performance
p2703 friction element d apply time range/performance
p0700 trans control system fault.
So far the ideas i have are as follows
replace solenoid D
direct clutch replacement and seals for corresponding drum
torque converter replacement and pump replacement
harness rub through between pcm and transmission
The truck has had similar issues a year ago. Upon testing line pressure i found it was out of spec and replaced the epc. (electronic pressure control solenoid) and this cleared most of it up . I have had the pan down many times and the fluid has not been burnt and there is little debris in the pan. nothing i would consider beyond normal wear. Tomorrow I will be dropping the pan again to inspect the magnet and fluid as well as the condition of the harness. i will post my findings at that time. I am hoping between now and then some of you will be able to point out a few possibilities to get me on the right track.
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My 2011 f250 has 92k miles, I want to change all 16 spark plugs.
Do the 6.2l plugs have problems breaking like the 3v engines did?
I think I'm going to pull the passenger fender liner to get to the lower plugs in the head.
How does the coil pigtail unclip? I looked at them briefly earlier and it looks like you pull the red tab back, then press down and pull on the pigtail but that did not work and I did not want to break anything.
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I have now found a chit load of LED fog bulbs in my search. I don't want to change out the entire light, just the bulbs. How do the bulbs effect the side vision. Almost hit a deer a couple of nights ago with my F350.....don't want that
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Just did my first oil change on my 2015 Super Duty 6.2 engine. I got the Fram filter the book called for, a PH-2. There's goobs of room for the longer filter. Would that be the PH8A? The book is about to trying to figure the comparable long vs short filter. Why do they insist on those short filters when a full size will fit? My Dodge Ram Hemi was the same way.
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Actually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
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I need to change the fuel filters on my 2014 F250 with a 6.7L. Are there any special tools required and any tips on how to get this done?
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Here within the next couple weeks, i am wanting to do some routine maintenance. right now on my list is just an oil change along with the fuel filter.
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Can I change the Fog Light Assemblies on a 2008 Super Duty without removing the bumper? They are made of plastic and one is broke on the top and the other keeps getting water in it.
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Just moved into the 250 from years of 150's. Now have 98 miles and read that the tran would have noise but normal while breaking in.
whats normal, not used to this much Clunk while changing from P to D ect. More noise than used too I guess.
3.73 gears
2014 F250, 6.2 gas 2wd....
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How to change the bulbs in my outside mirrors.
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So, recently acquired my grandpa's "old" 2000 F250 with the 5.4. I am a pretty mechanical guy, not a mechanic, but not dumb and change my own parts for a lot of stuff. Anyways, when I got the truck, I noticed it didn't like to get warm, or so the gauge said. It would go a little above cold, but you could tell, not a normal reading. I did a coolant flush because the system desperately needed it, changed the tstat, and a few days later, changed the Coolant Temperature sensor.
I pulled the old one out, it was covered in amazing crud from many years of being in there. Slapped the new one in, nothing. Doesn't register on the gauge at all, in fact the gauge acts like it is a dead gauge. I thought it might be the sensor, so I popped the hood again and found I had managed to break the plastic plug on the sensor. Figured that was probably the issue and went and got another. Same result. Checked the connection, it is in there snug. Didn't reset the PCM when I changed the sensor and some vehicles can be finnicky about that.
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I have a ford f350 2000 7.3 powerstroke. I changed out the powrstwering hose because there was no powersteering. now my brake pedal is easy to push and don't have brakes. Reservoir stays full so I'm not leaking any.
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I just bought a used 2013 F-250 4x4 and it came with the snow plow pkg. heavy duty front springs. I love the truck, but won't be plowing with it, and I don't need the rough ride (and don't like the look of the front end higher than the rear)
How hard is it to swap out the front coil springs and replace them with the "regular" ones?
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I just bought this Super Duty with a 5.4L engine. I want to do a fluid change on the transmission. From what I read, this transmission needs to be hot flushed in order to change out all the fluid. I have not called my dealer yet to see if they do hot flushes. If my local dealer does not have this machine, can I just drop the old fluid from the pan and be ok? I have not gotten under the truck yet to see if it has an external filter.
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time to change the tranny fluid and filters on my 2010 F250. nothing in my owners manual about this.
All the parts look up places say I need 2 filters, the internal (FT-180) and an external (FT-145).
Problem is that I cannot seem to find the location of the external filter.
Doing some research, it looks like mid-08 the external was eliminated. So, do I have just the internal or do I have the 2?
Regarding the fluid. If I use the Maxlife dex/merc that says meets the LV spec, will that be ok to mix with whatever is in there now? (assuming LV, but I bought used with 145k on it, no idea if its been serviced before and if so, with what).
Going to check with dealer about the hot flush machine, but I really doubt they have one, and I'm kinda concerned about doing a flush at 150K not knowing the history of it.
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Last night was changing front driver's side shock on my 2011 F250 PSD. Right front wheel still on ground and needed to turn wheel to right to better access shock mount. Started truck and turned the wheel all the way to the right and took the key out thinking the wheel would lock and I could change the shock easier. But the wheel didn't lock and actually spun itself almost a full turn after I took the key out...I'm assuming because the right wheel was still on the ground providing resistance, but I think the wheel lock may have broken.
Finished the shock and went to start, but nothing. Everything is clicking and buzzing like normal but wouldn't turn over. Checked all fuses that seemed pertinent but none were bad. Wasn't able to check any relays. Gave up and was going to have it towed.
Son and I had to straighten the wheel so I could roll in down the driveway and the dang thing started after the wheel was straight! Thought it was a fluke and parked it. This morning did the same thing so I cranked the wheel to the right and it started again. Now at work and thought I better check again and I can't get it to start for anything. The steering wheel lock seems to be busted and now I'm thinking it could be something in the steering column, but this is a little above my pay grade.
Need to get home tonight and was hoping my description would be enough to make a for sure diagnosis. Otherwise its getting towed to the shop and I'd rather fix it myself if i can.
So went back out and tried starting in neutral again, but this time fiddled with the shifter while turning the key...nothing again. Ran it up into park and tried it again and it started! Last night and this morning I didn't mess at all with the shifter, just manually turned the wheel with the engine off. This is the first time moving the shifter worked and I didn't turn the wheel at all this last time.
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I am changing the plugs in my 98 e150 today and I was thinking it was a .54 gap and 13 ft/lbs to tighten them. That sound about right?
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