Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Engine Starts To Run Very Roughly Then Will Die
Feb 11, 2017
I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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Truck runs and rids smooth up to about 60 MPH between 60 and 75 it gets bouncy really bouncy. Feels like the right front is whats bouncing. The not as bad on a good smooth highway but still bouncy.
I've replaced the Ujoints, Center Support Bearing on the rear drive shaft and had hit balanced. I had the front drive shaft completely rebuilt and balanced. I have new tires.
Shop said suspension needed done. Could that be the cause of the bounce or is it a CVJ on the front (feels like the front bouncing)
Side note, when the hubs are locked in there's a knocking when i turn hard right.
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06 F250 6.0 with only 65,xxx miles on it. This has happened twice and both times the engine was warm and had been cut off for less than 10 min.. When I tried to crank it back up it stumbled and idle roughly then cut off. After several attempts to re-crank it still would idle rough and I tried to give it fuel but no change, even with pedal fully depressed. Then it would die.
After sitting a few minutes it starts normal. Both times I didn't have my obd2 adapter for my torque pro. The last time it happened I went home and hooked it up and got no codes. Everything looked fine. What could it be, where should I start looking. Batteries are1.5 years old. Oil, oil filter, and both fuel filter changed about 1000 miles back. I have had the truck for 1.5 years and the oil has been changed twice.
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OK, not sure where to start so here goes. I have an 02' f-250 with the v-10. I just had some minor front end body work done and when I got it back I noticed that it just didn't feel right while driving. When I start it, I notice a small misfire while I stand next to the exhaust outlet. Nothing too bad, still runs great. Shortly thereafter I started noticing a more habitual missing while driving. Roughly between 30-40 mph and around 12-1500 rpm the truck feel like the driveline is about to pickle fork the truck. If I let off the gas or step on it, the vibration goes away. And very intermittent.
It will only do it when the truck is warmed up. If I only drive about a mile, it won't do it, yet if I turn around and head back, there it is! Now the weird part. I for reasons I won't get into, I left my ignition on and drained the battery. I just replaced it and for the last 2 days nothing. Nt even a misfire. Now today here it is again. I have read all over the forums for this exact problem and cannot find my exact problem. I have replaced the plugs with Autolites and cleaned the coils as well as the boots and applied a small amount of dielectric grease to the top of the plug. The boots are cleaned and not a sign of cracking or wear.
I replaced the PCV valve and nothing. All the plugs looked exactly the same. Light chocolate in color. Not one looked different than the other. I took them out again last week to verify the plugs weren't bad and the new ones all looked the same as well. I cleaned the MAF sensor also. Just cannot figure out what could be doing this all of the sudden. I don't see where anything wasn't plugged back together when it was being worked on and why would a new battery make it go away for a short time? Oh, and lastly, I have a superchips programmer that came with the truck and there are no codes showing and my check engine light has never came on yet.
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I've got a 2008 5.4L I just bought. The previous owner just ran around the city and never pulled anything with it. After the truck has been pulling and the engine is hot, when I slow down to an idle the engine starts to diesel. This lasts for a few seconds then goes back to normal. Is this just because the engine isn't used to working and the computer hasn't adjusted yet? is this something that could be serious and I should have checked out by a garage?
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I recently bought a 2001 f-350 xl 4 door with the 8 foot box it has the 5.4L triton v8. I was heading to a job up in northern Alberta about 10 hours away from where I live. On the drive I lost control of the truck on some black ice I was doing about 50 miles I went into the ditch but nothing crazy drove right out after. Now my truck won't do over 30 mph the engine starts to sputter and back fire I loose all my power, what's going on. At idle she revs fine but as soon as I put her into drive it's like she wants to die what can it be?
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2002 F-350SD V10 Automatic. Running down the road with no load or with load. First gauges bottom out, next overspeed light starts flashing, engine goes to 3000 RPM on it's own. Stays that way until I shut off then restart. Sometimes it does this several times in one mile.
Second trick, again driving along, all gauges stay up but engine just stops. Got to set dead for 5 minutes before it will start. The shop says on the first problem this happens: Voltage goes way low then goes way high then everything starts failing. We changed battery but no luck. Got to be down line from battery.
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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My 6.0 seems to only want to fire when cold, whats the issue?
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I have 2002 F250SD, The horn just starts blowing by itself. Bump the horn switch and it stops for a couple of weeks. I've looked at the wires to the fuse box and no wires shorting out the horn wire. I read some very old posts but nothing conclusive was ever decided on, just a lot of guessing. The horn switch has always been sensitive.
Somebody said the air bag is warming up in the sun and expanding causing the horn to blow. Somebody said the horn relay, but in 55 years of working on trucks, I have never had a horn relay act like that. I'm told the horn relay is built in the back of the fuse box and it all has to be replaced. Some say the clock switch. I don't know what that is or where it is. I guess inside the steering wheel. Is it hard to replace?
Where do I go from here....
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My 06 f350 power stroke has a viper 2way remote starter.
When I try to start it when the truck is cold it doesn't crank long enough for it to start the truck. It will try 3 times when I hit the start button and normally won't go. It almost starts most times but stops cranking right before it starts. This is driving me nuts.
I just tried 3 times to start the truck and it in ally went on the 8th time trying to crank.
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2003 f350 sd 2wd 5.4 auto cab chasis 40 gal rear tank (home depot truck//for real)
Wouldn't start/towed home/ran until it was parked ...
Bad fuel pump//replaced//new fuel filter ...
Starts but won't idle//will run if feathering throttle...
Code's po443/po1451/po1747/po755/po743 never had these codes before
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I have a 2001 F350 V10 Crew Cab that has 51000 miles on it so it doesn't get driven all that much, but I do start it at least once a week and it has always started on the first crank.
A couple weeks ago I drove over a friends, I backed up her driveway, turned the truck off and went inside. After returning I went to start the truck and it wouldn't start, just cranked. Probably had between 1/4 and 1/2 full.
I let it coast down to the level and it still wouldn't start. Finally had it towed home. When I got home I tried it and it started right up. Next day it just cranked and wouldn't start. The day after it started right up, I ran it for 20 minutes, turned it off, tried to start it and it just cranked....
Then I started looking at forum's for a possible answer.
I already had an IAC that I bought a few months ago since it was idling a little rough that I installed. Still started intermittently.
When I listen closely when I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key it starts right up, when I can't hear the pump it won't start.
I have tried moving the relays around that are in the fuse panel on the drivers side hood, moving the fuel pump one to the blower motor and vice versa. Still starts intermittently and only when I hear the pump run.
I looked for the FPDM that in some trucks is up by the spare tire but apparently my truck doesn't have one, or at least in that location..
My next thought is that it must be a bad pump...Can a bad fuel pump act like this, sometimes work and sometimes not?
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About 20 miles into it, and it starts cutting out on me under load, over about 1/4 throttle. I baby it a ways further, and park at a wal-mart. Idles fine, but once again, after 1/4 runs like crap, acts like it's back firing through the intake spit and sputtering. Have the wife come pick me up since I was heading to work. Decided to shut it off, and restart, and it acts like its never had a problem.
Was messing with it today, and let it warm up in the driveway. Once it got hot, same story good 1/4 throttle, past that, not so much. Shut it off, started it back up and drove it to see if there's any codes at vatozone. Drove good (laying into the throttle) for about 2-3 minutes, back to same behavior. Hooked up code reader, no current codes, and no historic codes. Although I did notice (actually since I bought the truck) that the check engine light never comes on, even at initial start up. Looking at my spare cluster, it's an l.e.d. So no bulb out I guess unless the led is bad. Truck has around 130,000 miles on it. Everything is stock.
I'm leaning toward a fuel pump, a clogged cat, or a fuel pump relay or cutoff switch problem.. It doesn't have any other issues than that, and has been a good truck for the 10k miles I've owned it... 2003 F250 5.4...
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I have a 2002 F350 v10. I have 101,000 miles on it. When the Speedometer hit 15mph it starts to climb Rapidly to a 100mph then it stops and goes to 0. My miles go blank and when I slow down to around 5mph it comes back. I do know that I have a bad clock-spring and am changing that this weekend.
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Simple enough the truck starts then after about 30 seconds it bogs down and dies. I am getting these codes.
705 Transmission Range Sensor Out of Position
708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
720 Output Speed Sensor Insufficient Input
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid A- Short Circuit
Sounds to me like the converter it locked up. What do you think? Its a 5.4L
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I've got a 2005 f350 with a 6.0 starts when it wants. I have checked the ficm and 48 volts when key is on and cranking! How do I know if my icp is bad? Some days it will start no problem but most days it will just crank over. When it does start i run it for a while shut it off and try to restart it and it wont!
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I just recently bought my 2002 F250 Lariat with the 5.4 and 76 thousand miles. I love this truck but I've started to notice a few things with it. When i go to start the truck it sometimes starts but then instantly shuts off. When i try it again it takes a long time to crank over. This has happened in cold and warm weather. What the problem could be and things i could do to prevent it?
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I have a 2000 Ford-F250, V10, 6.8 liter Gas. The issue is that when I try to start the vehicle it will start, but then start to idle real low and then die. If I try to restart sometime it will and sometimes you have to let it sit. I can also pump the gas and it will sometimes start.
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2013 F250 4WD gas V8, auto, stripped basic truck, 72500 miles.
I'm driving back to the shop today, chimes start going off, Service Advancetrac comes up where the odometer is & starts flashing. More chimes, airbag, battery, seatbelt & a couple of other lights start flashing, & coming off & on at random. Check Brakes starts flashing where the odometer is. This gets worse & worse, more & more noise, but the truck runs fine, starts & stops fine.
Ford saw fit to not put a volt meter in, so I don't know what the battery was doing. This went on for at least 5 minutes. I finally was able to push the button to turn off the Traction Control in the split second when all the lights went out. With Traction shut off, all the noise & flashing went away.
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I have a 2000 F-250 Diesel that has started acting strangely. It starts and runs well, but every once in a while the peddle just stops working. Might be a second or so and then the RPM will go up. Or you may be running down the road and all of the sudden it just stops acting like it is getting enough fuel. Same thing it might last a second or so. Sometimes it might happen 4-5 times in a row over a few minutes and might not happen again for a day. Truck does not stall when this happens. It just does not go like it should.
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