Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Engine Falling Out Of Truck At 356k Miles?
Dec 17, 2014
What the heck went wrong going 75 mph down the freeway and hear your engine falling out of the truck. I have a 2000 F250 Diesel 7.3 which I bought new the last of 1999 and have 356,000 miles on the engine. I got the s--t scared out of me yesterday. Anyhow I pulled over and killed the engine got it back home and this is what I found.
The bolts come out of the torque converter all but two and they were about to come out too as they were loose. I have never seen anything like this before in the way the studs in the converter where put in. If you look at the pictures you can see that there looks to be an insert in a hole and then the stud put in and drilled with two roll pins on each side. I think that some one has modified this converter to fit this truck. I did have the transmission rebuilt around 200,000 miles ago from a very know transmission shop. Later I am back on the road.
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Recently purchased a CPO 2009 F250SD 6.4L. Happy with the truck overall but this AM I noticed a slight burning plastic smell so I opened the hood and looked around closely. Didn't really find the culprit(I don't think) but noticed that the engine compartment heat shield/barrier appears to be falling down above and behind the turbos (pictures linked below). How big a deal is this? Would it be covered under the CPO warranty? It almost seems like a safety issue. I also wonder if the insulation material, now exposed without the metal reflector material, is what is causing the smell....
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As of yesterday, Ford has just informed me that my problem is not their problem. The engine and a turbo on my 2012 Ford F-350 Super Duty went south at 114,000 miles; 14,000 miles north of the warranty. The cost of repairs from the dealership is high. I don't have that kind of money, especially since I ran my own transportation business with my truck and have been effectively put out of a job since the end of October, 2014.
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I installed a Hopkins back up camera early last year. The original double sided tape that holds the monitor to the windshield didn't hold up long. Tried some of the gorilla double sided tape. A couple weeks max. Then I tried the 3m double sided tape. It would work a month or so. Did good all winter, but now I'm going to have to redo it for a 4th time already this year. It sticks to the glass, it's pulling loose from the plastic mount made onto the monitor.
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I noticed a thumping sound in the truck bed when I'm driving and took a look underneath. The rubber gaskets for the truck bolt are all rotted and falling apart. Does it have to be replaced?
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My 2002 7.3 will go dead when driving then not start up until after it has sat for a good hour. Then only run for about 10 minutes before dying again. The truck will stay running if left in park idling. It only stalls when it is driving.
I replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor and Alternator with Genuine Motorcraft parts. My next assumption is the ICP Sensor? Maybe. I do have a kill switch on the truck that I thought might be loose--but I'm not sure.
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Bought a brand new F250 6.7 it has 7000 miles in it now and the check engine light comes on and the truck goes into limp mode. I have taken it in to the dealership twice they said there is no code they can find and they just reset the check engine light and it does ok for a bit then starts the cycle all over again. It also is only getting about 6.5 mpg....
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I recently bought a 2001 f-350 xl 4 door with the 8 foot box it has the 5.4L triton v8. I was heading to a job up in northern Alberta about 10 hours away from where I live. On the drive I lost control of the truck on some black ice I was doing about 50 miles I went into the ditch but nothing crazy drove right out after. Now my truck won't do over 30 mph the engine starts to sputter and back fire I loose all my power, what's going on. At idle she revs fine but as soon as I put her into drive it's like she wants to die what can it be?
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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I have a 2002 F250 with 189,000 miles. Im having some very bad issues that im trying to fix. The truck idles rough, with fluctuating RPM's. In certain speed reanges it also shakes and runs rough. If I turn the overdrive off the shaking pretty much stops, but it still accelerates pretty slowly. There is also a whistling noise from the front of the truck until the engine warms up, someone told me it sounds like a bad intake manifold? Does that sound right? What could be going on with my truck? All spark plugs and coil packs have been replaced, as well as the fuel injector rails.
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I have an 06 6.0. I have replace icp and ipr. I had a car tube with an hole so I replaced the tube connectors. No dtcs are present. The truck will crank and run fine but after thirty minutes of running it dies, it dies faster if I put it in gear and drive it, if I move it back to neutral it starts running ruff and I lose throttle response sometimes completely and sometimes on a minute or two. I also fixed a fuel leak around the 6mm plug on pump, replaced both fuel filters.
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I have had this truck for about 3 weeks now, and twice on hot days (95F) it wouldn't start. Both times I had not driven the truck that day, so this would be a "cold start." No "idiot lights" came on to give me any indications. The Haynes Manual does me no good on this. Other than this issue, the truck runs and drives great.
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So, I've now had my 2015 F250 6.7 Diesel for about 2 weeks and I just turned over 1000 miles (damn I love driving this truck). And, I'm dying to find out if my mpg experience coincides with any other truck. With no load I am consistently getting right at 22.5 mpg at 70 miles per hour. With all in town driving and no load I'm holding right at 15 mpg. And I've noticed something else that seems odd. I'm actually getting a little worse mileage at 60 and 65 than I do at 70 miles per hour. What is going on there? Do these engines get a little better mileage as they get more miles on them?
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2014 f250 with 2500...My cruise went out on my new platinum. Cruise symbol comes on, goes green when I hit set but will not hold speed. I know this would be an easy warranty fix but here's my problem. My regular local dealer, which I bought my 3 fleet truck and all personal autos from didn't get this sale. In fact he was 5k higher then the dealer 120 miles away and I brought him written proof. He was very angry and down right rude when I nicely told him I couldn't pass up 5k. He told me that was just bad business by the other dealer and hung up on me.
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This F250 has 60130 miles on it. A week ago the transmission would not engage and we had to have it towed to the dealership, so we called roadside assistance. Finally getting the report from the dealership we are verbally told that the transmission pump failed and the clutches have burnt.
The work is submitted for warranty. Last night we get a phone call that they are denying the warranty because the truck has been neglected/abused. So I asked for the service paperwork. The service paperwork states, SEALS FAILED ALLOWING CLUTCHES TO FAIL, NEEDS CLUTCHES, SEALS, AND PUMP TO REPLACE.
When I call to get clarity on the definition of neglect and the justification, I am told the inspector was shown burnt clutches and a muddy truck. When I ask about the pump and seals, I am told the inspector was never shown 1 failed seal, and the pump was fully assembled and did not appear defective.
So I call the dealership back and ask for an explanation and they tell me they will research it and get back to me. When they call me back their story is not just that the clutches failed, nothing else and that they are just replacing the pump and seals because it is recommended. The notes given by the technician to the warranty folks now state that the clutches burnt and the truck was muddy so he knows we abused it.
It would slip and then knock into gear. Transmission was service 5000 miles ago by dealer, we were told it was good, in good working order, fluid looked great, no issues.
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Just had my truck in for an oil change at dealership and wanted them to check for oil leak seeing as I started getting drops on my driveway. When I pick up the truck they told me the front crank seal was leaking and possibly the rear main seal. Front was gonna be 650 bucks and the rear was gonna be 1020. Ended up taking truck to local diesel shop and they replaced front crank seal for 300 and said the rear main looked fine. Tech also told me the old seal looked worse than some that came out of engines with 3 times as many miles. 6.4L ...
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Recently my 2011 f250 sd 6.2s check engine light came on so I took it to my local dealer it was throwing a p0430 code, they said bank 2 cat converter wasn't do it's job so it needed to be replaced. I am concerned that there is an underlying cause of the premature cat fail. I pushed the issue with the service manager and he told me that's all they could do was replace the cat and refused to check anything else on the truck. Is this common? The truck runs and drives fine. I'm just concerned that they are just throwing parts at it to get it out the door.
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Just hit 180k in my 2000 V10, 2wd last week. That means that within the next 1-2 years, I'll be hitting 200k. I have heard that some bigger maintenance may be required around then, like a transmission rebuild. Some posts I've read say that it's fairly unpredictable and pretty dependent on regular maintenance over the life of the truck.
I've only had the truck for a year, and supposedly the previous owner kept up with regular maintenance. I've done a lot of work on the suspension: coils, shocks, ball joints (twice), tie rods, and brakes/rotors. Is there anything that commonly needs replaced on the engine, or axles, etc.? Just trying to look toward the future so I can get as many miles out of my truck as possible.
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My 2008 f 250 with 75k on it is making some unreal noises at 45 to 65 miles per hour. Almost sounds like someone is tapping on the top of the cab.
2008 standard cab with utility body
2 wheel drive
75,000 miles
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We have recently had an intermittent problem where, when I put the truck in drive after backing out of a parking spot, the truck lurches forward and then stalls. Then, when I put it in neutral and fire it back up and put it back in drive, it charges forward, and I'm hardly able to hold it with the brakes. But then, when I put it into park and turn it off and turn it back on, it's fine.
It seems as though the torque converter is locking up when I put it in drive after backing up. The truck went to the dealer for diagnostic of an unrelated issue, and they said that it happened to them as well. They believe the trans is on it's way out, but it didn't throw any codes, although they remarked that they fluid smelled burnt, even thought it was changed about 7k miles ago. It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3 and a 4R100, 185k miles.
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I have a 2002 f-250 7.3 diesel, i straight piped it but only by cutting muffler off and welding a piece of pipe in its place, it is pretty loud but id like to hear the turbo more like more of a whistle, it has a pretty good whistle once i get past 1500 rpm, is there a slightly bigger turbo i could put on without putting too much strain on the 180,000 mile engine?
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