Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Engine Block Heater Only 5 - 10 Degrees Warmer?
Dec 12, 2016
It got down to the low teens the other day and I thought I would use my engine block heater to see how well it works. But when I got in the oil temp was basically the same as the air temp (it may have been 5-10 degrees warmer but still not above 20*F) after being plugged in for 2-3 hours. Is something wrong here? I would have thought it would have warmed it up or does it not affect the oil temp? If not, what does it warm up?
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When I bought my truck it didn't have the block heater installed, asked the dealership to put it on with the deal, but they didn't have one there. How hard it is to install one? Also what brand should I go with? (On my '16)
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Cold no start goes nowhere. I have a 2001 7.3 that will not start in the cold if I forget to plug it in....like last night. I have to plug in the block hater and give it a while before it will start. I tested the glow plug relay,it works fine. I can not find a test for the fuel bowl hear, and I'm not one to throw parts until I accidentally fix it. Any test procedure for the fuel bowl heater? Why this POS is so bad in the cold? Glow plugs tested fine at diesel shop in December, and this problem has been around since before that.
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I have had the truck sitting for almost 2 weeks now and live in the Midwest. It is about 35F outside today and finally got to drive it. When I started the truck and let it warm up for about 3 minutes I backed out and started driving. in total the engine ran 6- 8 minutes and the transmission temp moved off cold but the engine was still reading cold. Is this normal in this truck? Mine is a 5.4 gasser with the 3.73 rear.
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Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
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I have recently placed a new shortblock from Nashville engines. My retired ford diesel mechanic said it was the best shortblock he has ever seen. Since working on my truck he has ordered 6 small block from them. I used reman'd Ford heads after going through three sets of heads from Clearwater heads and one set from ProMaxx Cylinder Heads out of rainbow AL.
Since putting in new long block the truck smokes a puff of white smoke each morning. Enough smoke that it bothers me. A new longblock with new injectors should not be smoking. I have changed the fuel filters thinking the 5 sets of heads previously put on the truck may have gummed the motor up and have ran octane boost for the last 500 miles. I ran a 2000 mile road trip and the truck still smokes when cranked. sometimes a lot and sometimes a little. What could be causing this?
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I have a leak where my heater core tube goes into the intake at the rear pass side of engine. I have read that this part is pressed in. I dont want to remove the intake since i just paid $400 to have a new gasket kit put on. My question is can I bypass this tube with a hose from the water pump like in this video?
FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! - YouTube....
If I can do a rubber hose like in the video I was to make sure that the tube just goes through the intake and that it does not supple coolant into the intake??
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I just finished putting a 7.3 back in one of our f450 plow trucks today, so then i moved onto our 2001 F250 5.4 plow truck. The dipstick tube was rusted in half so i pulled on the remaining half to get it out and put in the new dipstick. However, it broke off at the block. So now i cannot see how to get the rest out with out doing a lot more work. I haven't removed the splash guard yet but will i have to remove the manifold , the oil filter base, or both?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD 6.8 v10 and its mixing coolant in the block and leaking oil. I'm debating on just dropping a newer v10 in it but im just not 100% sure that this engine is shot. It runs great when there's oil in it and I can't even tell there's any problems going on for well over a couple hours after i fill it up with oil.
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I decided to go ahead and do a rear block replacement. I'm going to install the Ready lift 4 inch blocks.
I have both u bolts and nuts off of both sides. Rear stabilizer bar disconnected and both shocks disconnected. However, when I raise the rear of the truck, the axle raises as well. What could be holding it on still? I noticed there's a nut in the middle of the leaf springs. Do I take that nut off? I just don't know what could be keeping it from separating.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have a 07 F650 crewcab with a Cat engine. The air-condition and heater fan work intermittently no rime or reason to it, be driving down the road and it quites, then maybe a few hours later and it will start. A few days ago my wife turned on the key and the fan was working and then yesterday she turned the key on and it wasn't. When I bought it I watched them replace the fan and it worked for a few hundred mile then stopped, for the rest of the trip it was on and off. I replace the resistor and spliced on a new electrical connector, but still have the same problems....
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I've got a 01 sbcc 2wd 5.4 gasser and I've gone thru 3 heater cores in 18 months. Is there something I'm missing?
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This morning on my way to work in my 2012 F-250 I turned the heater on, controlling the temp from the temperature control. When the truck got up to temperature the heater fan would not come on accordingly to bring the inside of the truck up to the temperature that I had selected on the controls, so I tried operate the fan manually and it still didn't turn on. Once at work I didn't have really have time to look at anything with it, I did however shut the truck off and start it again and still nothing. Then after I got off work, driving home still nothing until I was about half way home then all of the sudden it started working again. I'd sure hate to have this happen again later this winter when the temperature gets below zero outside.
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So my heater works when I'm rolling down the highway. When I'm at about 20 mph or less it blows cool air. Also when it's just idling it blows cool air. What I might have an issue with?
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I got my 1999 f250 super duty v10 about a month ago. It had 200,700 some miles on it. It's now at 201,865. My issue is when I turn on my heater I smell coolant. It's kinda strong. No leaks that I can see. Not in the ground or in the cab or from what I can see of the heater core. It only smells when the heat is on, no smell on the cold setting. It sat for months before I bought it from a dealership. What it could be? Ok now it sounds like I have the ticking death sound. The one people have said happens when spark plugs are about to fail. So I guess new plugs are in order.
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So when i shut my truck off the heater will occasional keep blowing. it also has a string of LED type lights inside the dash by the speedometer, those also stay on sometimes. It's happened before and we thought we had it fixed. We had a whole new fuse box put in and some kind of module. What could be the problem? I am thinking maybe some kind of wiring?
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2001 F250 5.4. The heater will blow warm air at idle and on the second highest setting, once you start moving or turn the fan up to full blast it instantly cools off. The coolant level is fine. The engine runs at a normal temp.The blend door does work. I just replaced the thermostat, and both hoses for the heater core are hot.
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My 2006 F-250 SD with 6.0 diesel has some sort of cut-out for the heater circuit, and possibly for the A/C as well. This truck was probably a fleet vehicle for the Houston Port Authority. Didn't really notice this peculiarity until it got really cold outside. If I start the truck up and let it idle for 10-15 minutes the water and transmission temperature get up to the normal operating ranges but the heater/defrost circuit does not heat up. Cannot defrost the windshield.
If I drive to the end of my driveway, about 600 feet, the heater/defroster starts putting out good heat. When driving, if I have to stop at a stoplight, or any other pause, with the truck still in gear, the heater output starts to cool down. I suspect that this feature was incorporated in the circuitry at the factory to prevent the driver from sitting still to keep warm. The truck MUST BE MOVING to allow heat or defrost to operate. The blower motor operates and it doesn't matter if the truck is in gear or not.
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My blower doesn't seem to blow very hard. I've been in other fords and the ac and heat blows great. Someone suggested that that I pull the fan motor and clean the blades.
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I recently replaced my heater core on 2001 F250. Would be a simple job if it weren't for the quick connects on the hoses. Any tool to take these apart on the truck where space is limited?
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