Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Electrical Connector To Nowhere
Aug 3, 2013
Ok I have 2003 F350 6.0 I am doing some work on it today on my egr valve. I pulled off the intake manifold and it was bolted to another spacer type thing that had 2 electrical connectors going to it but when I looked there was nothing for the connectors to go to they just plugged into this empty space. the part has a plastic cover on one side that has delphi on it but its all hollow what the hell does this go to and what are these connectors for?
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Well, it seems the cover on my trailer connector got broken off. The cover locks the trailer plug into the truck side. The connector on the truck is/was supplied by Ford. Now the dealer say NLA, only 2005 and up. Truck is 99 F250 SD. Plug is 4/7 way. Where can I locate a direct plug-in replacement? I do not want to be cutting and splicing.
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03 f350 7.3L. Have no power for the trailer running lights at the connector end. No power when the end is split and no power at the next connector above the spare tire. I have power at the fuse (38) and the fuse is good. What is the best connection to check next? Is there a common culprit that might cause this problem somewhere? I know 3 more connectors are in the frame by the fuel tank but pretty much lose track of which one might have the wire for the trailer.
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I am in the process of rebuilding my front end and have found that the nipples that screw into the top of the knuckles for the ESOF system are rusted and need replacing. I'd like to keep the system as close to original as possible, but have had no luck in finding a replacement. What the appropriate Ford part number is or where I could pick up a suitable replacement. This would be for a 2001 F-250 4X4 with the V10.
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I have a 2006 F250 XLT 6.0 diesel. I bought last month to haul my fifth wheel. Looking for the wiring diagram for the "under hood lamp". I have no power at the connector of the under hood lamp. I have checked all the fuses in both locations (battery box and central junction box) and did not find a blown fuse. The under hood lamp is not listed on the the central junction box fuse and relay posting in the owner manual. Is it controlled by something else?
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I recently had need of replacing my left exhaust manifold on a 2000 F250 4 x 4. I removed plastic inner fender well. Now I have a two pin harness with both white wires. One is white with red stripe, the other is white with black stripe. The harness is round with a locking square on one side. The harness is located about 10" from bottom of inner left plastic fender panel. It has 2 mounting pegs. Where the heck does this connect?
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I have a 2009 F 250 5.4L, couple days ago it acted as if the alternator had gone out and killed the battery. I swapped batteries with a coworker to get the truck home and when I hooked the battery back up, the battery and the alternator both tested fine. I've put the voltmeter on periodically and everything seems to be fine and all electronics are working except for the radio. I did a light test on the fuse and it showed a bad fuse so I tested the fuse and it tested fine and I put a new fuse in and tried the light test again and it failed. What the problem could be?
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2000 F-250 Super Duty
I was replacing my headlights, which required me to splice in their lights to my parking lights, and I seem to have shutdown ALL my parking lights. I did a test after twisting my wires together and everything worked fine. Then I soldered and heat shrunk them and somewhere during that process I lost all the parking lights.
I checked the 8th fuse as per the manual (for Parking Lamps) with a multimeter and it checked out just fine.
Figured it was the time to ask the experts on here where I should go from here. Are there some other fuses I could be missing, or maybe some else I could do?
Solved: Bad fuse in the #8 slot in the Power Distribution Box (under the hood, near Cab, driver's side)...
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I went to replace a headlight bulb and now I lost electric in the cab. I have no interior lights, no power window or door locks, turn the key on, no crank, no cluster, no radio, no chimes, the upfitter switches work, the mirrors power fold and telescope. Have power to both fuse boxes and battery is fully charged.
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The other day I was under my truck and noticed electrical plugs behind the front splash guards. What these might be for? I have a 00 F250 superduty XL model with the 5.4.
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So a truck that was running fine Sat for 2 weeks. Battery died so i sent some coworkers to jump it. They tried using a welder which they didn't get turned down enough. Now the wiper motor stays on even without the key. Radio doesn't work but the dash light still comes on. With a new battery installed it turns over but doesn't start. I know something had to get fried but where to start. Thinking about replacing all fuses and relays...
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I was driving my truck and my power windows quite working I figured it was a fuse so I wasn't to excited about it I stopped and unloaded some scrap metal and then when I started my truck back up I couldn't shift it out of park unless I unplugged the brake pedal sensor or turned the key just out of the off position then shifted to neutral then started then I could put it in gear and go so I got home and started looking checked all my fuses all good then I realize the windshield wipers are not working either and the door beeper, if you have your keys in the ignition also isn't working the horn, isn't working the lights on the window and lock switches isn't working either so I'm kinda lost now gonna barrow a relay tester in the am but I'm kinda thinking maybe the computer ?? For all this to happen at one to,e doesn't make any sense to me that's a lot to all go in one shot it makes more sense to me
No horn
No power windows
No accessory lights on the window and lock switches
No wipers
No buzzer/beeper (like when you open the door and leave the keys in the ignition
Won't shift out of park without doing it with the engine off or the brake pedal position sensor unplugged
I've gone thru with a test light and got power to the fuses for everything but still nothing
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One of the super coils busted while driving my 2002 F250 Super Duty. I drove it for less than 100 ft. before parking it. It made a rapid "check,check,check,check" sound, which I'm assuming was mainly the coil smacking against other parts while loose. It busted near the point where it screws into the motor. I felt like I lost some compression as it drove sluggishly once broken, although I only drove for a very short time. I also thought I may have smelt a slight burning scent, or maybe oil, but didn't smell anything once I got out of my truck. Any problems I should look forward to other than simply replacing this coil?
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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I'm thinking of doing a dash swap on my 99 super duty to the 2008 super duty dash, steering wheel, etc. I know the od in my truck is mechanical and in the new one its electronical is it possible to swap without having to redue the whole electrical system and computer? Is the steering wheel going to line up and the ducting? How should i approach the wiring?
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I took out the PCM and there seemed to be no chip in it. But after I put the PCM back in, I think it reset it. Because the truck does not blow any black smoke, nor does it burn rubber when flooring it at a stop. But still seems just as zippy. But I'd like to know if there is a chip in the truck. Where would I go about searching for one. I've looked at everything and it all seems to be stock.
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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What kind of m.p.g. are you getting on this new diesel engine? I'm getting avg. of 14.5 driving half city and half highway at 65 m.p.h. and easy acceleration.
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