Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: E550 - Backup Beeper Warning Goes On Sometimes When First Start It And Step On The Brake
Feb 26, 2014
My E550 van front/box back has an electrical problem.
Sometimes when I first start it and step on the brake my backup beeper warning goes on. Most times it stops once I start driving, but sometimes it continues for a while or comebacks back by chance. Doesn't matter where the shifter lever is, park, reverse or drive.
Yesterday it woke up really bad and anytime I used a turn signal or flasher I got a fast blinker and beeper going. Figured I had a light bulb out. Looked around the truck and noticed no taillights. Shut truck off went inside a building with flashers on, beeper was going. When I restarted, beeper stopped and I had right side taillights but no left Drivers side.
Drove back home still no left side. Where to start looking. Electrical is not my strong suit.
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2003 E-550 7.3L with IDM codes clear all code, do in injector buzz test P1276 and P1275. Start truck and SES light comes on. shut off truck code IDM code go to KOEF and have P1272, P1273, P1275, P1276. just replaced valve cover harness ohm wires to IDM put new IDM in. Truck shuts off while going down highway, turn key off then back on an usually starts on it own ....
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Having problems with warning beeper staying in the "off" position?? i am going to try and unhook the battery, but if that doesnt work, then what to do...
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I was driving my truck and my power windows quite working I figured it was a fuse so I wasn't to excited about it I stopped and unloaded some scrap metal and then when I started my truck back up I couldn't shift it out of park unless I unplugged the brake pedal sensor or turned the key just out of the off position then shifted to neutral then started then I could put it in gear and go so I got home and started looking checked all my fuses all good then I realize the windshield wipers are not working either and the door beeper, if you have your keys in the ignition also isn't working the horn, isn't working the lights on the window and lock switches isn't working either so I'm kinda lost now gonna barrow a relay tester in the am but I'm kinda thinking maybe the computer ?? For all this to happen at one to,e doesn't make any sense to me that's a lot to all go in one shot it makes more sense to me
No horn
No power windows
No accessory lights on the window and lock switches
No wipers
No buzzer/beeper (like when you open the door and leave the keys in the ignition
Won't shift out of park without doing it with the engine off or the brake pedal position sensor unplugged
I've gone thru with a test light and got power to the fuses for everything but still nothing
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The parking brake audible warning is going off along with the parking brake light. I tried disengaging the brake multiple times and it went off once, however now it will not go off. I found some older pictures of a switch on the arm that swings with your foot when you engage the brake, but I can't find it on my 2004.
Is there a switch down there that needs to be kicked, contacts cleaned or replaced? I checked the fluid level and vacuum hoses and do not see anything obvious.
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Looks like a great option the Job 1 trucks missed out on. Looking into the feasibility of it. This is my first Ford so I am not really sure how the factory plans these things out.
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2016 F-350 Lariat Ultimate with Tail Gate Step: After returning the step inside the tail gate and closing the tail gate, the cap does not sit evenly across the top of the tail gate. As the gate locks, the cap "pops up" on the right side and correspondingly moves down on the left side. Truck was purchased on 11-04-2015 and this defect was not noticed during walk around.
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I am a trucker at heart and I like to add running lights to my running board / step bars. As far as installation of the lights, done it several times, no problem there. However in the past, I have just ran a wire back to the trailer plug and used a scotch lock / snap connector to feed the running board lights.
If I do the same on a 2012, will that cause havick with the computer? Most likely I will be running 7 lights, all 3/4" diameter LED style. If this isn't' the best solution, then where to get power for marker lights.
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We just purchased a new 2012 F 350. Love it, however when shoping forgot about getting one with a step. Have found step and handle available (OEM) but need to know how hard/easy to install it on our current tailgate. I gather from another post the handle part is easy but what about the step itself?
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I would like to add a second backup camera to my 2016 F-350 Super Duty to assist when hooking up to my fifth wheel. It is a Crew Cab with the Factory Tonneau Cover so my view of the hitch is blocked. I would like to add the third brake light high mount camera and be able to toggle between my OEM/Tailgate Camera and the High Mount. I have found a couple that claim they will work but both require tapping into the main connector on the back of the display, but not quite sure how to open it up. Accessing the connector is not a problem, just getting it apart without breaking it is the question. The "Lockpick" system has not been tested/certified for the 2016 model.
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Went to start my 99 F250 SD this morning and I got a series of 5 warning beeps. Kept repeating this for 5-6 times? What's up with that?
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I have a 2013 F350 Lariat. Recently, the backup camera has stopped working about 1/3rd of the time. When it doesn't work, a yellow triangle icon appears on the screen with " Camera unavailable. See dealer." The dealer has checked it, twice, and is unable to locate the problem.
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1999 E-350 Super Duty (figured the problem would be the same for van/truck)
Problem: Backup lights don't turn on when in reverse.
Diagnosis: Changed the fused (because it was bad) but didn't fix it. The bulbs are both good. Brake lights, turn signals all work. I understand the backup lights are connected to the Neutral Sensor Switch. To test to see if the NSS was working, I put the van in Reverse and cranked... Van didn't crank (and likewise for D, 1-3).
So I guess the Neutral Sensor Switch works. The fuse works. The bulbs are good. Haynes doesn't have much as far as troubleshooting for this issue. What should I look at from here?
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I screwed up installing LED taillight assemblies in my 2011 SuperDuty and pinched a couple of wires against the body. The result of this (at least I think that this cause) is that my backup lights no longer work - neither the backup lights in the tail light assembly nor the reverse light power on the trailer plug. I have checked the fuses, etc. and nothing. I brought it to a local shop and they could not figure out the problem, either, but said that it was probably the "control module" that got fried when the wires got pinched. They said to take it to the dealer. The questions are, what "control module" might they be referring to, or what to check?
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When I first start my truck (13 SD, 6.2 with Sync touchscreen) and shift into reverse with the backup camera screen showing and if I happen to get a new text message, the alert pops up on top of the camera image. If I click nothing at all (often don't have time to, notification is short), the home screen quadrant will then appear on top of the backup camera image with a small sliver of the camera image on top and bottom behind the home screen. If I shift out of reverse and back to reverse, I get the backup camera screen back.
Since my "deleting" messages on my truck doesn't do anything with my phone (Nexus 5), I get this problem every time I start up and go into reverse unless I wait for the alert to pop-up first and ignore it.
This started happening with the latest Sync update and I checked for any new updates, none to be had that I can see. I had it into the dealership yesterday who said they couldn't duplicate the issue although they failed to ask me to demonstrate to them with my own phone. Being I've had trouble with them in the past, that part was partly my own fault for "testing" them on that. I fail to see how a setting in my phone could control the screen behavior like this though, so I don't buy it.
With a handful of other problems related to that darn touchscreen, I've just disabled bluetooth syncing likely for good. It's pretty darn terrible.
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Starting about a year ago, "sometimes" when I step on the brakes and am turning the steering wheel, I loose the power steering. I took it to Ford and they said that this is a a known issue but they didn't say what it would take to fix it. Because this problem is intermittent it is very hard to get this fixed unless the mechanic can experience and verify the problem for himself...
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I have a 2004 f250 6.8L and recently I've notice the trick not running strong. Is hesitating when i step on the gas pedal. For example, I am driving on the feeder road and fixing to get on the freeway ramp, well i have to spent a bit harder on has pedal to gain speed, but it seems its struggling and I can hear muffler making like a flapping noise. Also when I am going between 40-65mph and I spent on it, the tricks kind of jerks and vibrates. Feels like its coming from transmission. I let go and step on it again and it goes away. What to check??
Miles : 96k
Year: 2004
No Check Engine Light
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I bought a 2011 F250 with nav and backup camera. the backup camera only shows in the rear view mirror and NOT in the nav screen. How to program it to show in the nav screen also?
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Pulled into parking lot this morning, 05 F250 CC 4x4 V10, truck starts dinging at me, Park brake light comes on. Ease off of gas and idle around to parking place, no sign of brake drag. Release Park brake, no difference, set the brake and release, no difference, guess the microswitch went bad. Not raining, never hit a bump, MAY have had my foot on the brake, but that shouldn't effect the P Brake.
After setting for the 12 hour shift, all is good and well. Did not come back on.
Where this switch is? Is it under the cover by the foot set or under the truck along the cable? Would like to know where to look next time this comes up. Did have 2 new tires installed on the front a week ago, new tierod and aligned at the same time.
Just wondering and curious, my last F150 had all kinds of electrical germlins in the windshield wiper arm.
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A couple of weeks ago, the gas cap warning message on my 5.4L showed up on my dash. Didn't think too much about it, figured to get one next time I was at auto parts store.
Then, a few days ago, the CEL came on. But truck seemed to run fine. As I was about to leave on a long trip this morning, I had the codes scanned just to be safe, and as expected, it came back with only the gas cap code. I was running late, so I just drove (yeah, yeah, I know). The CEL is still on.
I've also felt it hesitate a few times when the rpms got down to about 1200 (going up a hill pulling a trailer). Didn't think much, my diesel always did the same thing.
Well, tonight, a few miles down the road after I filled up a nearly empty tank, the CEL flashed for a few seconds, then quit, but still on.
Can all of this be about the gas cap? I saw some talk about fuel pumps, misfiring and catalytic converters getting ruined on here, but it seems like it could all be fuel related, and the gas cap might be the culprit.
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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