Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: E350 7.3 - Vibration While In Park At Certain Idle
Feb 25, 2015
My 99 7.3 has had a vibration / shake in cab as you rev up while in park in neutral around 1000 RPM -1700 mostly. Around 1500-1600 is the worst. At idle it seems fine and what you would expect from a 7.3 but then as you give it higher idle, it starts shaking cab and you can physically see seats start shaking and it all feels rough. It also translates to a vibration while driving in those RPMS down the road... It has new injectors, transmission/ torque converter, HPOP, exhaust and a whole lot more.......
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1999 F-250 V10 .... Truck was running perfectly fine except for a random high idle sometimes when put into park but if I gave it a good rev it would drop back down to normal. I assumed it was a dirty IAC or something and figured I'd get around to it later kinda deal. I also had a coolant leak from what I thought was the intake manifold to head gasket on the drivers side right in the front where the upper radiator hose meets the intake manifold so i added water here and there no issues.
One night I need to pull a trailer and didn't have the wiring set up for it in the back so I stopped at advance auto and bought one of those kits that plugs into your brake wiring harness and then plugs into the trailer. I tested it in the parking lot with the trailer and it was all sorts of messed up. My reverse lights stayed on my brake lights didn't work either etc. Turns out it was for the wrong years but plugs matched up coincidentally. I returned the kit and drove home just fine.
Next morning on my way to work truck started misfiring like crazy idle was bouncing all over the place lack of power etc. I took it to advance again after work even though no check engine light came on I still pulled 2 codes. P0300 which is multiple random misfire (no specific bank) and a P0401 which is an EGR Insufficient Flow code. I took it by a local shop I get my oil down at and they told me it was probably the fuel pump that they go bad in these trucks alot.
So I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel filter. Nothing changed so I thought maybe that coolant leak had dripped down to the plugs or possibly the intake gasket was getting worse and leaking coolant into the air flow ports since it was thought to already be a problem. So i pulled everything off the top and firgured id go through it all why I had it apart. I replaced the intake gasket but noticed when i took it apart that it wasnt the gasket that the head it self had a small pin hole leak in the very front where the coolant fed into below that upper neck that bolts to the intake manifold. I patched it with jb weld/ quick steel/ and rtv. Yes I know it wont last but just for the time being until I figure out the main issue. Replaced the plugs with motocraft plugs checked all my coils for grime and corrosion or what not and they all seemed fine and cleaner than expected. replaced the gaskets and threw it all back together. I also cleaned out the EGR and IAC with air and brake cleaner etc.
Blew all my lines out with air and everything seemed fine. I also replaced my DPFE sensor. Started it up ran fine at idle for like 5 min no coolant leaks or anything so I thought I was golden then about 500 ft through the neighborhood on a test drive the exact same misfire came back doing the same thing with the idle etc. I'm going to check my fuses tonight but I'm starting to think that maybe when I plugged in that wrong wire adapter for the trailer that I may have screwed up something with the PCM. Only because the lights were all out of wack and literally the next morning I started having these issues. I'm lost if its not a fuse. I would really hate to buy a PCM and not need it especially after all the parts I've bought and not needed already.
The vacuum lines all seemed fine and intact as well with no cracks or leaks.
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I recently bought a van that has a hard shift problem. It is a 1995 E350 with a diesel. If I take off from a stop without babying the throttle, the shift from first to second is very hard. Second to third is hard but not as violent. What might be happening?
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I have a 2003 e350 with a 6.0 lt. diesel and an automatic trans. The problem is when its cold there is no power ( 10 mph max ). When it warms up it does just fine. The other problem witch I think is connected is when it shifts I lose all power to my gauges and radio for a split second. I am thinking transmission but not sure.
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1999 E-350 Super Duty (figured the problem would be the same for van/truck)
Problem: Backup lights don't turn on when in reverse.
Diagnosis: Changed the fused (because it was bad) but didn't fix it. The bulbs are both good. Brake lights, turn signals all work. I understand the backup lights are connected to the Neutral Sensor Switch. To test to see if the NSS was working, I put the van in Reverse and cranked... Van didn't crank (and likewise for D, 1-3).
So I guess the Neutral Sensor Switch works. The fuse works. The bulbs are good. Haynes doesn't have much as far as troubleshooting for this issue. What should I look at from here?
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I have a E350 5.4 with 200,000 miles and it ran great before winter, this spring I fire it up and it got a miss I drive it anyway it starts to clear up and now the 1289 code. Everything looks fine coolant engine temp. I wonder if you can bypass the Cylinder Head Temp sensor. I am thinking the engine management is causing the miss to cool the engine.
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I had a post a couple of months ago about this E350 van I purchased with the 7.3. It would leave me stranded every few weeks and I replaced the injector oil pressure sensor and the camshaft position sensor. This truck has a intermittent running problem that cannot be pinned down to hot or cold.
It runs and idles well but sometimes during acceleration it will start to flatten out and smoke out the exhaust. Giving more accelerator pedal powers through the flat spot and the truck runs smooth. It does not do it every time. It does it hot or cold, wet or dry, city or highway, If this was a gas engine I would be replacing the fuel pump or checking a fuel starvation issue but the white smoke tells me that it has unburned fuel.
A cylinder contribution test passes fine. I monitored engine data with a Snap On Verus pro and compared oil pressures with another 03 7.3 I have and they are too close to the same. It starts fine, no issues there. It may take off great one time and buck and smoke the next. I swapped out the throttle position sensor with the other 7.3 and no change. I swapped out the injector control module and no change.
I've thought about injector Orings but I would think the problem would be consistent. I've changed engine oil, checked fuel pressure, changed fuel filter, and drained the fuel system to be sure no water is in the separator. This engine was rebuilt about 30k miles ago. If you floor the accelerator in park it will rev up, flatten out, smoke and buck for about 2-3 seconds, and then take off like normal. I pulled a trailer with it a couple of days ago and wasn't impressed at all. I have a 6.5 GM that seems to have more power than this.
I thought maybe a sticking injector and I added a half gallon of two cycle oil to the fuel to see if that might work. It hasn't. It just seems like it is flooding at a certain rpm and clears itself after a couple of seconds. There are no codes being thrown in the pcm. I am at a loss.
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Just last night, out of the blue, I've got an odd rumble at idle. The noise goes away under load and any time the rpm's are up over ~1300. It sounds like metal on metal vibration, but I don't see any loose exhaust parts.
I've looked at threads saying possibly a broken flex plate. Other than the noise, would there be any other symptoms? I don't notice any loss of power. I suppose I could pull the inspection cover and take a look, but I don't have any experience with auto tranny's and don't really know what I'm looking for.
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I have a 2006 E350 van, just recently had passenger side injectors replaced along with dummy plugs and stand pipes. I was at the car was spraying it off and noticed it started running rough, just figured maybe some water made its way into the engine bay and something got wet as it was running great. Well its stayed that way and i am getting codes p0264 and p0276. Digging around on the net seems like its ficm or wiring, ficm is 48 volts and 13.5 volts, connectors are on tight and i dont see any wire chaffing kinda stumped. hoping its not 2 bad injectors at once.
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I have a 99 F350 with a 7.3 diesel that will not shift into park.
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All the sudden got home and now my truck wont go in park. All other gears are fine. My PRNDL on dash has always been off for the last 3 years park has always shown as reverse its never affected anything! I already checked the torq. bolts and that was not it. My shifter is very sloppy so is my steering wheel. I found a 00 whole steering column with wheel and shifter but its not a early 99 will it work or fix my no park. The guy didnt know if it would fit early 99 or my no park problem.
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I have an issue with a truck I just bought. Sometimes, it doesn't go to Park when I shut it down. In order to start it I have to sometimes put it in neutral. Once in a while it will start when in the Park gear. What I should look into to fix it? It doesn't seem like a big deal.
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99 v10 auto 4x4. Won't go into park completely. Have to start in neutral. was fine yesterday, now it doesn't work. if it wasn't snowing like crazy id just crawl around and find out. do our trucks have a linkage? or shift cable? I imagine I am just out of adjustment somewhere. any advice what to look for or where to start when the snow finally stops??
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I was driving the other day and noticed my dash lights and park lights were not on. I do have headlights but nothing else. I checked wiring and everything looked fine. I didn't smell any burning wires of any sort. From what I've looked up, I am thinking its my headlight switch..
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I have a 2014 f250 gas engine that i was playing around under the dash and blew a fuse no dash lights or engine start. found a defective fuse on the passenger fuse box changed it engine starts now but no brake lights and cant get vehicle out of park. is there a fuse somewhere for the brake switch ? if not how can i test to see if this is the problem.
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My 2004 F250 super duty crew cab is stuck in park. Every once in a while it will move to drive, but once stopped and in put in park, its stuck. Its an Automatic transmission
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Problems with the Parking Assist/Reverse Sensing System. I have found the troubleshooting that everyone has done very useful. I have a 2007 F350 Lariat Crew Cab with problems with the Park Assist. Whenever I put it in reverse the system shuts off( Off Light illuminates). I have checked the wiring harness and all connections, Parking switch, and Reverse Sensors. I have done everything except check the Parking Assist Module. My maintenance DVD tells me that it is located behind the glove box. I cannot find it in there anywhere. Where it is located. The trucks manufacture date is June 2006....
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My father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
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My Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
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When I put the truck in to park, the doors do not unlock. They work fine with the button or the key fob. What do I need to do to fix this issue. Its quite annoying considering I have passengers with frequently that need to open the door a lot.
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I have a 02 F350 V10 4x4. Tonight I went out to go to a friends house and the truck started fine but when I push in the brake it will not release the lock on the shifter. You can hear a click noise when you push in the brake pedal.
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