I have a 2013 f250 6.2, I bought the truck brand new only have about 3000 miles on it and the other day I noticed that the drivers side front is lower then the passengers side front, the drivers side is about one inch lower, this doesn't seem right, also my drivers side front wheel seems to be pushed forward about one inch to the bumper that also doesn't seem right.
View 3 RepliesOn the F250 trucks, if I changed the mounting frame under the seat, will the passenger side seat fit on the drivers side? Basically, can I turn a passenger seat into a drivers seat?
View 4 RepliesI have koni seyup and my car is lowered all the way down all around. my front passenger side sits lower then the driver side.. I also have camber plates in the front. What u think could be the problem.
View 2 RepliesI got under the car today to change the oil and noticed the front drivers side is about an inch lower than the passenger side its causing the inside of my tire to wear very badly.
View 8 RepliesThe used 2004 F-350 I bought has developed a driver's side front end howl between 45 and 60 mph over the last 1000 miles. I tried all the standard stuff, rebalanced tires, rotated tires, put on a set of tires from a friend's F-350, replaced wheel bearings, replaced ball joints and nothing has worked.
View 7 Replies2011 f250 6.2. put it in the shop to have the rotors turned, and front brakes while they were under there. Now it pulls to the right whenever you apply the brakes. Can smell brakes on the left front after a short drive time. Replaced that caliper and it's still doing the same thing. I'm stumped at this point.
View 9 RepliesI have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
My truck has an intermittent shake with a grinding/binding kind of noise. It seems to happen at lower speeds, generally when slowing down and turning. When I apply the brakes or speed up it seems to stop the noise.
The rubber/plastic seal on the back of the wheel hub is loose on both drivers and passenger side but I don't think that is the problem. I'm wondering if it is the u-joints or something.
The brakes look shiny and i don't see any scratches on them so I don't think there is a rock or something in there. I have the wheel hubs in the auto setting, and it is a 4x4. The truck is a early 99 7.3L with a leveling kit and 230k miles.
Truck is 2007 6.0L 4 door F-250 FX4
So this started after some High water encounters around my area. All freshwater. Went to the store and then i notice the truck pulling Left and got home and checked brake temps and the driver front and rear were over 400*F passenger side was 150* or less. No trailer no load in the bed. I decided to clean everything. Pads are worn but still have life.
Rotors showed some signs of where the pad is dragging Not bad though just a small area close to the top hat. I cleaned pads, carriage, and clips and reinstalled everything with some anti seize on the edges of the pads where the clips are and at the same spots on the carriage.
Thought it was ok but the after more water and a day or two sitting the same thing happened again. It is only the drivers side and it's both front and rear. I am stumped on this one. Two calipers going bad at once? I need to tow a boat on Monday So I have got to fix this.
What this might be? (see pic)....
View 14 RepliesI've got a 02 SD v10 4x4 with Warn hubs and 97k. Bought it a couple months ago and I've noticed a vibration coming from the front driver side. Symptoms are that of a bad wheel bearing; vibration that increases with speed and not RPM, seems to lessen on left handed turns (weight transfers from driver side to passenger side) and gets worse on right turns. Also the truck seems very twitchy and hard to keep straight on the highway.
Snowed the other day so I locked in my warns (just in case) and I instantly noticed the noise and vibration almost went away entirely except for on the freeway around 70+ mph. Also noticed it seems less "Twitchy" on the freeway. Mind you the hubs are locked in but still in 2wd. After doing a little bit of reading some were saying this is a sign of bad needle bearings and not the entire hub.
I haven't jacked up the tire and checked typical movement in a bad wheel bearing. I know my way around vehicles and 4x4's pretty well...
I have a 2000 f250 4x4 with 4 wheel abs. The front passenger side caliper keeps locking up while I'm driving and won't release and when I hit the brakes it pulls hard to the drivers side. I have put two calipers on the passengers side and put new brake lines on.
View 8 RepliesOk so I got a good deal on a used F350. When I got it home I found the heater was stuck on defrost. I posted on here a few weeks ago with questions on what could be wrong. From that post I learned that my front passenger side hub is stuck locked in. I pulled the vacuum lines at every connection from the pump on and had good vacuum all of the way to the passenger side hub. I turned the axle shafts and found the drivers side is free the passenger side is locked.
I flipped the dash switch and heard the drivers side hub lock. Then I turned the axles again and found they were in fact both locked in. I flipped the switch back to 2H and the drivers side freed and the passenger side was still stuck locked in. So I pulled the passenger side hub off of the truck and found it was seized up. I put it back together and locked both hubs in manually until payday when I can pick up a new hub.
Yesterday we had a lot of ice! Where I park the pickup the front wheels drop into a low spot. I could not get backed out of my driveway with the front wheels in the hole and the rear wheels on ice, so I flipped the switch to 4x4 and tried again. It still could not pull out, the front wheels didn't seem to engage. Now I am thinking I have more troubles than just the one hub stuck locked in.
So, my questions now are, 1 if the passenger side hub is bad but both are locked in it should still go into 4x4 correct? 2, the 4x4 light on the dash lights up when I flip the switch. If I had a bad switch or fuse would I still get the same result (light on and drivers side hub clicking in)? Does this pickup have to move a few feet before it engages the 4x4 or should it click right in? And finally what is a short explination of how the 4x4 system works. The dash switch engages the solenoid on the firewall to switch vacuum down to the hubs but what else does it do? I assume it has some kind of switch or motor in the transfer case that engages the 4 wheel drive?
My 2008 ford f250 SD Powerstroke has a bad front passenger side brake rub/ dragging after offroading before off roading just rubbed a little now it drags a lot. what do i need to fix.
View 2 RepliesIs there a way to change the bulb without removing the grill and headlight? Seems like a lot of work to replace a bulb. 2013 F350....
View 3 RepliesI just realized my driver's side front leaf spring on my 2002 F250 has snapped. I checked the weight sticker on my truck and it weighs 5200lbs in the front. My question is the heaviest springs I found only support 2630lbs a piece, so being a 7.3 is 5200lbs a correct weight for the front of this truck? also why would Ford make springs that support only 60lbs more than the front weight? Hell I weight more than 60lbs.... Did I snap the damn thing just by climbing into the cab?!?!
View 6 RepliesCat like noises coming from front driver side tire .. honestly sounds like a cat ..it gets louder the faster I go ... what it could be ?
View 7 RepliesHere's the deal. I have a 2001 F250 4x4 and I am getting a noise in the front drivers side wheel. The noise is not a grind or clunk, but its like a u-joint is rubbing inside an empty cylinder kind of. Anyways, it seems like it does it only with small bumps. I took off my oem hubs and re-installed them and the noise went away for about a week. Now I replaced them with manual locking hubs and the noise is back. One other thing I notice is if i put the switch to 4x4 the noise goes away. I checked all major components for the steering and suspension and nothing was loose. The front end is tight. Is there anything inside the axle that would cause this? I dont know what to check for anymore. Where else to check?
View 4 Replieshere's the problem. The driver side front power window will only go down and not up. I checked the motor and the master switch with a multimeter and both work just fine. the motor is receiving power and the master switch is sending power. However when i plug the motor back in and re-install it, the window will not go up. Is there some sort of relay that might have gone bad that is not letting the motor raise the window up???
View 5 RepliesHad the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.
09 F350 with 50,000 miles, just starting to hear a mild squeak from front drivers side hub I believe. Can hear it while in 4 wheel drive, my thoughts is that the original universal in the hub is beginning to give up. My question is how long would you think I have before I need to get this done? Would this be a warranty item? I am not sure anymore.
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