Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Driver Side Door Combo Rubbing - Rattling On Bumps - Door Adjustment?
Jul 16, 2017
the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
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99 F250 Lariat SC 5.4 with 98,980 miles. As the title says, I cannot open the rear drivers door. It seems that the cable has broken.
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After the years and 300k miles, the door hinge on the driver side door are getting some play. I wonder if i can replace just the pin on this hinge or the whole thing needs to be replaced. By the way, I am talking about a 00' F450 ...
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Just came back from breaking in new brake pads. Instructions called for five moderate to aggressive stops from 45 to 10mph, then five moderate stops from 35 to 5mph, then cool down and drive as normal. Drivers side door opened fine when I got in to do the test. It's been opening and closing OK since I bought the truck a few months ago. Got back from my break-in procedure, and the drivers side door wouldn't open more than about 8". Had to crawl over and exit from the passenger side. Found that the drivers side door is binding against the front fender about midway down.
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I have a '99 Super Duty Club Cab and the driver side door lock switch is not working. Passenger side switch locks and unlocks both doors just fine. Full disclaimer, the driver side actuator is wearing out and doesn't work all the time but I can always hear it engaging when the passenger switch is activated. So I know the driver side actuator is on it's way out and have plans to replace it.
That being said here is what I have done that leads me to believe the driver side lock switch is fine and the problem lies elsewhere....I just don't know where. If I swap the driver and passenger lock switches, the drivers side switch will work when plugged into the passenger side but the passenger switch will no longer work when plugged into the driver side. This tells me the switch is fine and my problem lies somewhere else. Where I should start to track this problem down?
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Have a 15 250 diesel and my drivers side door has a rattle in it. Seems to be coming from around the area were the mirror buttons are. Removed that little panel and applied some silicone around the edges and seemed to work for a bit then back to noise. Seems to go away when cab heats up good or warm outside.
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My 05 has an incredibly annoying door squeak that is right behind my ear on the drivers door. If I pull in on the door handle just a little it stops. I tried to adjust the door to close a little quieter, but I don't seem to have any adjustment on the latch in the door or on the door pillar. Am I missing something? The hinges are tight so the door is not really moving up and down that much, but It is making me crazy.
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Driver's side rear door quit working today - opens about an inch or so. What is the remedy?
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As the title says, I have an intermittent issue with the power window in the driver's door. It always works, with the exception of when it gets really damp during the night. In that case when I get in the truck first thing, the window will go down, but not always up the first few tries.
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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The doors on my 2005 crew cab are leaking water. Its happened once before, I fixed it by resetting the main seal around the doors. Now this tropical storm had them leaking again. The rear doors are leaking from the top and getting the head liner wet, and the front left door is leaking a little bit onto the middle pillar Guage and down onto my leg.
Is it time for new door seals? My 01 has never had this problem so im not entirely sure what to do.
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I have a 2002 f250 7.3, an my radio is staying on when I turn the key off and open the drivers door. Windows are also still working. But if I open the passenger door it shuts off. What do I need to fix this I am tired of leaning way over and tryind to open that door every time I turn the truck off. I have been told to spray wd-40 into the door catch are i used a whole can an it still isn't working...
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So loving my new to me truck. Only has 140K on it. But one thing that bugs me is that with the doors closed tight, when I drive over bumps, they sound like they are not closed. Makes you feel like they will fly open. But when checked they are closed all the way. Is there an adjustment or something that can correct this?
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The rear doors on my super cab rattle like there is no tomorrow. It is the panels rattling. There has been a lot of discussion about the doors and the way they latch being the problem with the typical rattle and cluck doors.
Have to take off the panels to see if they can be dampened in anyway? Where are the fasteners keeping the panel on?
I am about to take the panel off and leave them off. Some days I laugh, some days I cry. My truck has 90K miles on it and they have clanged and banged since day one.
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I figured out how to go from the passenger door to in the cab, but how do you do it on the driver's side? The area is pretty "busy" around the emergency brake area.
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How to fix a broken drop tab on my 06 super duty driver door panel.
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I have a 2013 F350 CC 6.7L Lariat. The last two days I have been getting the Driver's Door Ajar warning coming on every time I get in the truck. Sometimes it will go off by itself, other times it wont. If I lowly push the door shut, just before the door latches completely closed the light will go off. But as soon as the door closes completely the light comes back on.
I tried squirting WD40 in the lock mechanism as recommended in some older posts for other models. No worky! I searched Fordparts.com, but cannot find a listing for the door ajar switch. Where to find the switch for this warning light?
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2008 F-350 Reg reg cab .....
All the sudden got a pass side door ajar warning. I tried doing the WD40 trick but its still there. Do I need to change out the entire latch or do they sell just the door ajar switch ....
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All the body bushings have dry rotted away on my 08 Superduty. Are these hard to replace?
I am starting to hear and feel more road noise and rattling when going over bumps or a rough road. U think they would have used polyurethane bushings instead of rubber.
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My power door locks just started acting up. The driver's side switch will not do anything. The passenger's side switch will lock both doors, but it will not unlock them. Is this a switch issue or the actuator? I am assuming the issue is on the drivers side only and am leaning towards the drivers side switch. With that said, I read about a lot of issues with actuators on these truck which makes me think it may be the actuator? Would the doors still lock if the actuator was toast? If it would, why doesn't the driver's side switch work? I tried replacing the driver's side actuator but it made no difference. I also swapped the driver's and passenger's switches and it does the same thing. The passenger locks only and the driver does nothing.
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