Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Driveline Noticeably Louder When 4x4 ESOF Engaged
Mar 17, 2017
I bought my 2012 F250 CC SB 6.2 back in December and really haven't had the truck in 4x4. Today we got a bit of snow. The roads were slippery so I engaged the 4x4 ESOF while at a stop sign (I know, didn't have to be stopped but I was so I put it in 4x4) The driveline was noticeably louder.
I had a relatively constant hum that almost reminded me of a wheel bearing going bad. If you've ever experienced a wheel bearing going bad the sound gets louder as you go faster. I'm sure it's not a wheel bearing since it only makes the sound in 4x4.
It's a fairly annoying sound and is louder than my old 99 F350. Notice the driveline being significantly louder in 4x4? There are no driving issues just a louder sound than what I was used to. I have the full Ford Certified warranty and can bring it in but I thought I'd run it by the brain trust here to get thoughts before going to the dealer.
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Truck: early 99 F-250 diesel lariat
I am trying to troubleshoot my ESOF not working. Let me start out by explaining the issue. A month or so ago it worked fine, and I took the truck in to get a damaged transmission and transfer case fixed. The shop tried to screw me out of a lot of money thinking I'm just some kid, but I know a fair amount about what the problem was so I called them out on it and they basically said tough and refused to give the truck back. Got the police involved and they got in trouble for fraud, but took sledge hammers to the transmission and transfer case to get back at me I guess.
So I took it to another shop to get a whole new transmission and transfer case. After all that, and also I removed the dash to replace a switch, the ESOF does not come on. The light for 4x4 comes on when starting the truck, so it works, it just does not come on when the switch is put on either high or low 4x4. The wheel hubs are also brand new and I tried in both free and lock and nothing. What to check? I'm thinking either they forgot to plug something back in when they installed everything, or maybe I messed up the switch itself when I pulled the dash off.
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ESOF not going into 4wd at all, except once in a blue moon... for a few times. All relays and fuses tested, swapped with known good units.
NO 4x4 light. so its electrical related. My hubs function like they should. when they are told to. I recently just swapped esof motor/gearbox on the TC. Worked 2x in the garage, went for a spin down the road, went into 2wd and stayed, wouldn't go back into 4hi brought it back inside, dinked around with resetting the GEM fuse. started working good. drove around and switched in and out of 4wd like 20 times no issues. next day, tried to go back into 4wd. nothing. Bring it back in the garage.
CURRENT DIAGNOSIS: Siting inside right now, If I flip the switch, I don't get anything. normally, that triggers the vacuum pump to suck hubs in. That doesn't turn on, the relays under the hood don't click. so it seems I am back up to the switch or GEM, or wires between.... Any test layout for how to test the switch in the dash? seems to be fairly simple, but I just wanted an exact view of what i need to test.
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I have had this problem for quite a while now. Originally it did not go into 4Hi when I needed it in a snow storm. I was told to just change the shift motor so I bought a new one, manually put the transfer case into 4Hi then put the new motor on. It would not shift into 2Hi or 4Lo. It was already in 4Hi but the light was not on. I thought I got a bad shift motor since I got it off eBay. I put the original one back on. Still nothing. I read every thread on this sight having to do with the subject and started going through checking everything. I found one of the relays was bad so I replaced both of them.
Still nothing although I thought I could hear the shift motor (or fuel pump) running. Today I took the shift motor off and hooked up wires to a battery and the shift motor with a momentary switch. When I pushed the button, the motor ran but the thingy that is supposed to turn the shaft on the transfer case did not move. Tried both directions. Then I hooked up the new shift motor and it ran and turned, changed the wires and it ran the other direction. Put it on and it worked, shifts the transfer case and the light comes on when it should. I guess I had been looking for one problem when it was really two separate problems keeping it from working.
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I have spent alot of time looking through threads about v10's misfiring and have not been able to resolve my issue. I recently purchased a 2000 v10 f250 with about 220000 miles on it I bought it knowing it had one miss fire but now I have a total of three. Te truck has no problems accelerating but at a little over 40 mph the engine shakes quite noticeably and after 60 i5 seems to smooth out. After alot of reading I replaced all of my plugs and ignition coils, ran a can of sea foam through my gas tank and my intake with no change to the miss fires. I have started my trials with the fuel injectors by switching them from miss firing cylinders to ones that aren't. Some other information is my truck has no egr on my intake.
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When I'm in 4 high and I coast I can hear something from the front drive line. It's a soft whirring/grinding type noise.
If I'm accelerating there is no sound . Only when the driveline forces reverse and the engine starts to slow the truck do I hear something.
With my hubs locked but in 2wd I don't hear anything.
Is this something to be concerned about or is it regular noise?
We have had a brutal winter so I've been in 4x4 75% of the time.
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After doing a test drive after installing an 8" lift on my 2000 6-speed manual diesel F-250, I noticed that while the 4X4 engages, it won't shift into Low. I've had this truck 7 years and know the drill: complete stop, foot on the brake, clutch to the floor, transmission in neutral, and it usually takes a couple seconds. I've tried different combinations of backing up first, going straight from 2WD to 4Low, etc and still no 4Low.
As far as I know the ESOF transfer case is all electronic and vacuum doesn't play a role. I don't recall ever seeing a vacuum line coming out of it anyway.
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Pulled my tranny to have it rebuilt, esof was working when I pulled the tranny, put it back in now the esof doesn't work anymore...
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I have read everything there is on this stupid esof 4x4. But I'm not getting power to the relays. I have checked every fuse listed and have no corrosion or anything. Is it possible that having a ,door ajar light on, constantly cause this I'm stumped.
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I've read many posts about ESOF and fault vacuum lines and how that will prevent 4x4 from engaging. I experienced a different problem this past weekend. Here's the situation...
Was about 1.5hr drive up to the mountains. Outside temp when we left the house: 10F. Outside temp when we arrived at destination: 9F. Quite a bit of road grime on the way up from sand, slush, and that magnesium chloride (or whatever they hell they put on the roads in an attempt to keep it from freezing). 4x4 worked fine on the way up. 4x4 light on dash was on, and I KNOW I could not have climbed the snow-covered forest roads without being in 4x4. Also, I could hear and feel the front hubs turning.
On the way home, once I got to where the roads were sufficiently ice free, I turned the dial on the dash back to 2WD. 4x4 light goes out. But I can hear and feel the front hubs are still turning. Toggled the switch back and forth a few times. 4x4 light would come and go with the toggled switch. But the hubs didn't disengage.
When I got back into town (outside temp now about 5), we stopped at a red light and I toggled the switch again. This time, the hubs disengaged. Is this a sign of bad vacuum? Or more an indication of faulty hubs??
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I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
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2002 Superduty 7.3 ESOF. I used 4x4 last week and the transfer case engaged and disengaged great. Yesterday I tried and got no response. I got home, checked the 2 relays by the brake booster and checked the fuses related to the ESOF system. Those check out good. I ohm checked the position switch on dash(2wd, 4x4 hi, 4x4 low) and it passed. I bench tested the electric shift motor and it works both directions just fine. I also jumped the relays and the transfer case shifted to 4x4 hi and low fine and the cluster indicator lights light up properly. Put everything back together, took a lil break and tried it again with key on truck off (so I can hear the transfercase) Went in and out both HI and LOW great about 4 to 5 times then got stuck in 4 LOW. I manually got it out by jumping the relays again. Tried again today. It went into 4x4 HI great, put in neutral brake on and went into 4x4 LOW great. But it will NOT come out of 4x4 LOW. Im stumped and don't want to just start throwing parts at it.
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Truck has been neglected for a while so this upgrade/repair I installed Powerstop brake rotor, caliper, bracket and pads. New Timkin wheel bearing, Moog U-Joints, and new inner/outer axle seals. Also replaced all the brake hoses and the remaining original rusty brake lines. About a month before I replaced the failed Auto/Manual vacuum operated locking hubs with Mile Marker units, which do not need the vacuum line, the drivers side was missing. and was letting water into the wheel bearing. So I decided to plug them and remove the vacuum lines from under the hood as well.
If there is interest I can get pictures of the vacuum lines, and what I changed under the hood. That was pretty self explanatory.
Could not find a google search for the thread size of the vacuum nipple in the knuckle. It is a 3/8"-24 fine thread.
[URL]
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I have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
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02 CCSB, and I have a vibration in my driveline that's starting to drive me nuts on my commute every day. I can feel it faintly starting at about 45 mph, whether the torque converter is locked or unlocked. The vibration peaks at about 60 mph and goes away at about 65+. My u-joints are all moog and grease them every oil change (about 120k on them now). At this point I suspect the carrier bearing, yokes, or even u joints but there's not much play. However the rubber around the carrier bearing is in rough shape and dry rotting. I'm curious if there's a test I can do to find the culprit.
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I am having some issues with my 2003 f250 6.0l 4x4. I cannot get the 4x4 to engage. There are no lights on the dash and no power to the switch other than the light. It doesn't matter if I have the hubs in lock or auto. It just seems like i have no power to the system. I have check all the fuses and they all check fine. I also check the transfer case motor and it seemed fine. I must be missing something. This truck is worthless without 4x4.
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I took my truck in for a clunking noise in the driveline as I come to a stop and sometimes when shift into park. It is now the 7th and I'm told parts have been ordered and the truck will be worked on when parts come in. I asked to speak to general manager and still no call back. I called customer relations and nothing they can do.
Honestly I think the have me on the back burner since I'm warranty work opposed to marked up repairs. Am I being unreasonable on my expectations of repair time? I called around and a ring and pinion job is quoted at 3 days at the most. Other repairs have been approved as well and parts are in for those, but they have not actually repaired them either.
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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I took apart, cleaned and lubed my hubs. My question is: how does the vacuum make the gears work?
Does the vacuum force (suck) the nylon assembly to push the outer gear towards the center of the truck, sliding on the inner gear thus engaging the teeth so that the axle shaft turns the hub?
When the vacuum is gone, does spring pressure pushes the outer gear away from the center of the truck thus disengaging the teeth from the inner gear and allowing the hub to free wheel?
Is this vacuum source constant during 4wd and not present during 2wd or do I not understand how the system works? I have read about a “vacuum pulse” that locks the hubs and another pulse that unlocks the hubs and this confuses me.
BTW, I like the way the Auto lock works. I had a set of Warn Auto Lock hubs on my 78 CJ. They worked on the principle of a set of roller bearings that would lock (pinch) when there was torque coming from the drive shaft. There was no vacuum involved at all. The down side was that when you coasted, the front hubs would be in two wheel drive and so you would not get the engine braking on all 4 wheels. These ESOF seem to have solved this problem.
Oh, I should probably tell you that I just purchased my 04 F250 SuperDuty 4x4 with the 6.0 diesel, just had it a week. It has been 18 years since I owned a 4x4. Before this I owned an 87 F250 2wd with the 6.9 diesel.
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The transfer case on my 2001 F250 Powerstroke will not engage when the ESOF is switched to 4hi or 4lo. I checked the fuses and they are good. I removed the electric motor on the side of the transfer case and while it was hanging down with the two plugs attached I did not see any movement when the dash switch was moved to the 4hi position. I used a wrench to manually shift the transfer case and still did not get the transfer case to engage. What next?
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A buddy of mine has a 99 F250, and the 4WD stopped working. The 4wd light in the dash does not turn on with the key with the rest of the lights. There is a Low Range light that does turn on. He took it to a shop/dealership and they said the vacuum was good. They also swapped in a different GEM module, which didn't change anything.
I swapped the relays under the hood - no change. I keep reading that there is a two wire plug on the transfer case I can test for voltage or to manually power the motor. Where is it? I see two plugs - the blue one on the left has 4 wires, the black one has more. Or is that not the shift motor I need to be looking for?
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