Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Driveline Noise When Slowing Down In 4x4?
Dec 21, 2013
When I'm in 4 high and I coast I can hear something from the front drive line. It's a soft whirring/grinding type noise.
If I'm accelerating there is no sound . Only when the driveline forces reverse and the engine starts to slow the truck do I hear something.
With my hubs locked but in 2wd I don't hear anything.
Is this something to be concerned about or is it regular noise?
We have had a brutal winter so I've been in 4x4 75% of the time.
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I took my truck in for a clunking noise in the driveline as I come to a stop and sometimes when shift into park. It is now the 7th and I'm told parts have been ordered and the truck will be worked on when parts come in. I asked to speak to general manager and still no call back. I called customer relations and nothing they can do.
Honestly I think the have me on the back burner since I'm warranty work opposed to marked up repairs. Am I being unreasonable on my expectations of repair time? I called around and a ring and pinion job is quoted at 3 days at the most. Other repairs have been approved as well and parts are in for those, but they have not actually repaired them either.
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TRUCK: 2003 F250 S/C Long bed 4x4 7.3 Diesel
PROBLEM: grinding noise in left front when slowing and stopping.
Starts as a howling noise, turns into a grinding as you brake and come to a stop. I feel it in the pedal and as it slows it feels like metal to metal brakes
WHAT HAVE WE DONE: Replaced both front hub assemblies (MOOG)... Replaced dust shields, rotors, calipers, pads as well as all new brake hardware.
At any speed when I brake hard it grinds and howls, I have taken out the 4x4 locking hub assembly and it does not change the situation. I am stumped!
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I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
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I have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
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I bought my 2012 F250 CC SB 6.2 back in December and really haven't had the truck in 4x4. Today we got a bit of snow. The roads were slippery so I engaged the 4x4 ESOF while at a stop sign (I know, didn't have to be stopped but I was so I put it in 4x4) The driveline was noticeably louder.
I had a relatively constant hum that almost reminded me of a wheel bearing going bad. If you've ever experienced a wheel bearing going bad the sound gets louder as you go faster. I'm sure it's not a wheel bearing since it only makes the sound in 4x4.
It's a fairly annoying sound and is louder than my old 99 F350. Notice the driveline being significantly louder in 4x4? There are no driving issues just a louder sound than what I was used to. I have the full Ford Certified warranty and can bring it in but I thought I'd run it by the brain trust here to get thoughts before going to the dealer.
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02 CCSB, and I have a vibration in my driveline that's starting to drive me nuts on my commute every day. I can feel it faintly starting at about 45 mph, whether the torque converter is locked or unlocked. The vibration peaks at about 60 mph and goes away at about 65+. My u-joints are all moog and grease them every oil change (about 120k on them now). At this point I suspect the carrier bearing, yokes, or even u joints but there's not much play. However the rubber around the carrier bearing is in rough shape and dry rotting. I'm curious if there's a test I can do to find the culprit.
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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My 04 F350 has a bad shudder when slowing down between 30 and 10 MPH. Not so noticeable at other speeds and almost nothing while speeding up. How to fix?
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I have a 2003 f250 with the 7.3 power stroke in it. It is factory height on a set of 285/75 16 tires. It already has a reman steering pump and I replaced the steering gearbox today due to the truck having a little slop in the wheel. Since I bought the truck it is dang near impossible to park in a parking lot and almost impossible at a stop sign or being stopped to get it to turn whether I'm on the brakes or not it doesn't seem to make a difference. What else could be affecting the steering on the truck? All the steering components are good. I'm about by to the point of just selling the truck because it's that hard to steer. Especially trying to back a trailer is hard too.
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I have a 2001 F-250 7.3 diesel with an automatic trans. Over the last couple of months it has stalled 3-4 times while driving, always when slowing down but even at speeds of 15 mph or so. I did find a burnt vacuum line the other day. It comes out of some type of relay box located behind the battery and in front of the starter solenoid relay and is mounted on the fender. It has an electrical plug in the top and two vacuum lines at the bottom. I am hoping this is the cause of the truck dropping off of the idle circuit? But I don't know what the unit is so I cannot order the correct replacement lines.
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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So my 2010 has been bulletproof thus far. Now the last few weeks I've been working on a new property and using 4x4 a lot and driving in deep/wet grass.
This noise happens only when cold and only at low rpm. In/out of gear moving stopped doesn't matter. Tried to take it to dealer and it was warmed up by then and not doing it! So ill take em this video and leave the truck there for a couple hours and see if they can duplicate it.
Any guesses what this is? [URL] ..... And why I've been distracted off my truck!
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I have a 2000 F250SD 4x4 that has developed a nasty front end noise. I originally thought it was a suspension issue (seems like bumps in the road cause the noise but not always, turning does not cause it) but everything seems good. Steering is tight and there is no 3 and 9 oclock movement. Ball joints also seem good with no 12 and 6 movement. I have jumped up and down of the front bumper and cant recreate the noise either, removed the sway bar and the noise is still there. The only strange thing I notice was that with the truck in 2wheeldrive and the hubs unlocked I can turn the front drive shaft and the drive's side axle spins but the passenger side only turns intermittently. I'm sure this isn't right so I'm looking for diagnosing the cause. Since none of these parts should be moving while driving in 2wheeldrive could this also be the cause of the noise?
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I have a 99 F-250 SD 4X4 7.3 with about 160,000 miles and still running strong. I haven't been able to troubleshoot a strange clicking noise during the Glow plug / pre start warm-up process. It seems like the noise is coming from a vacuum "relay/ actuator" ( I think that's what the part is) under the hood on the passenger's side. But again I am not a Ford mechanic, nor have I owned this complex of a truck before.
There seem to be two different vacuum terminals that both have two outlets that attach to vacuum hosing. The unit does not have a line ( or 2 ) connected to the innermost vacuum outlet. Does this need to be connected? If I put my fingers on the units outlets to restrict the noise becomes more high-pitched, then will cease to make the clicking sound sooner than if I didn't cover the outlets.
I'm unsure on the process on how to insert a photo. it's asking for a URL, does this mean I need a flickr photo account to transfer the photo? Can I just upload a JPG?
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1999 f250 super Duty V10... I am having some problems with switching out of four wheel drive. S, when I flip the switch back to 2 wheel drive everything, seems ok at first, but within a mile or two I will hear this grinding coming from the front that sounds like the gears aren't completely disengaging. The inky thing that prevents this grinding from happening is switching back into fire wheel drive and keeping it there. What might be causing it to not stay disengaged ?
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I have a 2003 6.0l did a rebuild on it. Got it all back together runs ok, but the turbo is making noise. I can unplug the actuator and the noise stops. How can I check the actuator. now the noise is of course when it is running.. but unplugged the noise stops.
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Before I climb on the ground and go over the front (there is snow on the ground and I am still like 26 days from owning my first home and having a garage FINALLY.) Very recently the truck started to make a little low pop noise and you can feel it in the steering wheel a little bit, when I turn sharply, almost to the stop by not completely and it will start. Not dumb when it comes to vehicles, but new to these trucks so always good to ask for common problems first!
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Whats the clicking noise going on behind my dashboard? It's constant even with everything shut off in my'02 F350. The truck has been laid up for three years and I'm getting it ready to move...
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On my 2007 f250 ext cab long bed when I got home tonight and parked it in the driveway I noticed a cracking or tapping noise coming from the right rear of the truck around the hub area. I bought the truck about a month ago from a ford dealer. The truck has 111k on it and runs pretty good. I have also noticed when I back the truck up a short distance and then put it drive and start to go forward that there is a slight popping noise coming from the rear end. I have had the carrier bearing checked and dealer says its good. What this might be. Could it be a sticky brake caliper?
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So when my hubs are locked they make a popping noise. Not when I'm turning like a 4wd would but all the time. And then when I turn on my ESOF in the cab something makes a horrendous noise like its binding up really bad. When I unlock my hubs and turn off my ESOF it all goes away. My 4wd does not engage without the hubs locked. I have the warn standard manual hubs. I'm not sure how to check to see what's messed up.
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