Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Drifting / Pulling To The Right
Apr 5, 2015
Just had my tires rotated (which I do ever 5,000 miles) and an alignment done. Alignment appears to be in spec, but she is pulling/drifting to the right. Dealer suggested I get the tires cross-rotated, which I had done yesterday, but she is still drifting/pulling... not sure the difference. Pretty sure I have to get it back to the dealer to address, but just looking for other possible causes to potentially prevent that trip.
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I'm working on my brothers 99 f250 super duty 2wd. The truck pulls to the right. Here's the list of things I've changed and checked
1. Gear box
2. Tie rods
3. Ball joints (aligned)
4. New bearings and seals
5. Brake rotors and calipers. Front and rear.
6. Rotated tires front to back
7. Rotated tires in cris cross pattern
8. 4 new tires (factory size tires)
9. Rebalanced tires
10. Aligned for a third time.
And the truck still pulls right. What is causing this!
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1999 f250 5.4L... Its done this 3 or 4 times now. Driving and it starts pulling to the right pretty bad, almost like if the front passenger tire was messed up or something. Today it did it, after I let it sit for a few min, then drove back to the house, it drove straight. Also, when it pulls to the right, its very sluggish, as if I'm pulling a very heavy load. From a stop, it doesn't even go until I hit the gas, and at that its very sluggish, sorts feels like if you drive off and forget the ebrake is on.
Also I've noticed some burning on the passenger side which I've read is probably the head gasket. I can see the oil dripping on the exhaust, causing the smoke. Also, my CEL just came on, with code P0401 "powertrain exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficient detected". Recently changed the plugs because it was running and idling a little rough.
At this point in wondering if the pulling issue could be something with the brakes, when I'm driving, it sounds like something is rubbing, I haven't looked at the brakes yet but I'm likely going to do new pads and rotors all around soon anyways.
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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My truck is intermittently pulling to either side when braking. Sometimes its the right, sometimes its the left, sometimes its hard, sometimes its soft.
Its a relatively new truck. 21K miles - 2014 F-250 Super Duty 6.7 Powerstroke.
I don't want to go to the dealer yet, because its emissions deleted, tuned, and lifted. I don't really want to hear their bull rhetoric.
I have unplugged the ABS sensors for a few minutes while running, plugged them back in and its gone away for a period of time, but now its back again.
Just trying to figure out what the problem is and see if its something I can just fix myself.
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Truck blows smoke like a blown NASCAR engine occasionally when pulling heavy load....pull over, cool off and resume driving. Its as if it never happened. All fluid levels are in range and truck drives fine minus load. My last f350 5.4 did same thing at about 200k miles. My local ford dealer tells me I'm the only guy on earth this Has happened to.
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My 05 f-350 6.0 is giving me some problems. I have 311,000 on my truck. It had had its share of problems, at 80,000 it blew its first head gasket. Ford fixed that one!! At 199,000 it blew its second one. I had head studs installed this time. At 299,000 I had to replace two injectors, a new turbo, a egr delete kit, a new oil cooler, power steering gear box, and while I was burning 1000.00 dollar bills I put a new edge cts on it. IOne the way out day one it was 95 temp out side, the truck ran great coolant temp and oil temp stayed around 202 to 204.
Day two 70 degrees my o temp hit 235 while the coolant temp went to 210. Backed off the throttle to 60 mph. Coolant temp dropped to 202, but the oil temp stayed around 217 to 220. I can not make the oil temp go above 198 with out the trailer. The other thing that scares me the most is my coolant level dropped about a half gallon!!! It is not blowing any white smoke, there is no coolant smell or leaks that I can see, and the holding tank has no evidence of being over pressurized. The edge system does not give me any codes except for the two for my egr delete.
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So the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
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My husband and I bought a 09 f-250 with 58000 miles. It used to pull our travel trailer with no power issues. Now the rpms go up & the power goes down. It never gets hot nor any lights come on. It's been in the shop twice. The first time nothing was found. The second time we were told it was dirty fuel filters. The truck only has 70k miles...
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Driving on a paved road(some potholes but nothing bad) came to stop sign. After waiting for trafffic to clear, made right turn onto state highway truck began to pull to left, at first I thought i had a flat tire but every thing looked okay. Drove two miles to home, if let the steering wheel go, the truck would change lanes in about 25 feet...
2002 ford crew cab 4x4 7.3 power stroke 20k on Michelin.
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I have a 2000 SD F250, gasser, auto. Last week I pulled a heavy load and developed a tranny fluid leak. The fluid appears to be coming from what looks like a freeze plug on the bottom of the casing forward of the (torque converter?) pan . Is that plug easily replaced by a DYIer. Small leak. 150K on the motor. First time it has leaked. Heaviest load I've pulled.
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My 02 F250 has me baffled. For a while the truck would pull to the right when hitting the brakes and occasionally the brake would get hot. To try and remedy this I put a new caliper and hose on the right front corner a new hose on the left front side. The truck still pulled right and the pedal got spongy even after bleeding the brakes 3 times. I got to checking the rest of the brakes and found a seized slide pin on the left rear. Got that fixed and still pulling right with a soft pedal. I've checked all of the sliders and none are seized. I am lost and I cant stand the soft pedal!
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I have a 2006 f-250 super duty with a 6.0 and auto trans. I was pulling a trailer with about 5k of vehicle on the trailer.
Problem : after a long trip on good roads, I had to pull a steep hill. climbing the hill i did not shift into tow mode and all of a sudden my engine raced up to about 3k rpms and seemed to either shift to low or ( maybe ?) the Governor may engaged ?
Anyway I made it to the top of the grade and it seemed to be fine from there.
Question Is the trans broken, or did the computer maybe try to protect the trans ? It seems to work fine still?
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A friend has a 2003 6.0,around 200000kms well maintained just had new injectors,filters etc. This truck is his bread and butter so anything that needs to be addressed gets it, pretty much touble free until now. Just out of the blue last week at driving @60kms/hr pulling an empty trailer it died no surge or sputter. Full fuel,oil etc,they tried to get it running and it would not fire up. His local auto shop pretty much gave up on it and it now sits at our Ford dealership. Thoughts are leaning to fuel delivery to electrical can we ball park some things that he can put forward to the dealer to get him in and out sooner.
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I have an 03 F350 4x4 dually. Was pulling hard left at low speed when braking (front). Replaced pads, calipers, rotors, hoses and tires. Still the same problem. You can feel the abs activate right before it almost locks up the left front brake (basically will pull the steering wheel out of my hand). BTW the abs light does not come on.
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I just recently got handed a 2005 ford f250 6.0 PSD from my older brother, new to the whole diesel game, well all of a sudden as i was driving down the road about 65 mph, trucks RPMS shoot to about 4K and tow haul light starts blinking as i start pulling over (still in drive of course) i realize i can't move anymore the trucks rpm just rev. In all gears it does not move i moved 1-3 D and R and nothing truck just revs. i had my father get under the truck as i shift from gear to gear and the linkage is moving back and forth on the transmission as i put it in reverse the reverse lights still pop on, I'm new to the diesel game...
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Best truck I ever had but around 200k would occasionally blow a bunch of smoke when pulling a heavy load.
My 2000 f 350 xlt triton v8 has done the same thing a couple times (about 200k miles).
The (cough) "truck expert" at my local dealer has never seen that before but its happened in 2 different trucks for me. It never caused a problem other than scaring me.
I sold the 02 last year when i got a 2011 f 250--it was 12 years and 300k miles old and never was hospitalized except for a fuel pump due to my negligence of filter.
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My 04 Toureg is pulling and drifting to the right when driving (as well as braking). I have not had in to the dealer yet but will soon. 4500 miles.
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One of the super coils busted while driving my 2002 F250 Super Duty. I drove it for less than 100 ft. before parking it. It made a rapid "check,check,check,check" sound, which I'm assuming was mainly the coil smacking against other parts while loose. It busted near the point where it screws into the motor. I felt like I lost some compression as it drove sluggishly once broken, although I only drove for a very short time. I also thought I may have smelt a slight burning scent, or maybe oil, but didn't smell anything once I got out of my truck. Any problems I should look forward to other than simply replacing this coil?
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
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