Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Difference In F350 Frames From 2005 To 2011?
Jul 1, 2017
Any difference in the f350 frames from 05 to 11? I am particularly interested in the portion under the bed. I am trying to figure out if an oem goose neck hitch would fit back on my 05 if I changed the bed out as well.
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Came out to start my truck today a hit the key and got nothing. After I settled down from being upset about my truck already giving me trouble (bought it in Nov and had 25k miles on it, 35k now) and that I should have stayed with a Chevrolet, I was able to start it by crawling under and jumping the started with a screwdriver. The truck started up no problem and got me home where I did some troubleshooting. Looks like I dont get solenoid power at the starter (just main power), the relays and fuses checked out, anhe d it looks like the key is still programmed.
I had been getting what seamed like a delayed start every now and again that was going on for a while, but thought it was just me. The next items I thought that may be the culprit are the neutral safety switch or the ignition switch. The gear selector seams to work fine and it wont start in either P or N, the backup camera turns on and nothing seams to be incorrectly working on that account. Also, the truck is a 2011 F350 Crew Cab 4wd Lariat with the 6.2 gas motor.
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I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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I have and 05 F350 4X4. I put it into 4 wheel drive high yesterday to make sure every thing was working correctly and it was so I went to 4 wheel low and that worked fine. Problem is it won't come out of 4 wheel low. I didn't try to go back to 2 wheel when I was in 4 high. What to look for? The truck has the electric switch to engage 4 wheel.
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Recently drove a 3500 mile road trip with no issues after installing a SCT X4 programmer from 5 star. Upon returning home the following week the ABS light came on and has not gone off. Additionally, last week the truck stalled while driving down the road at around 45 mph. Had something similar happen last summer, got the truck stuck and was trying to rock it in the mud and every time I shifted from reverse or forward the rpm's dropped to 500 and the truck could not respond to the gas pedal and the ABS light came on. Once I got out and washed all the mud from under it light went off and it ran fine without any warning lights.
Truck is an 05, V-10, 4x4, off road and tow package, lariat. No other mods besides the programmer.
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Picked up my 2001 5.4 from the salvage yard last night and today, while pulling the exhaust manifolds, discovered the salvage engine has an egr tube from the driver manifold but the one in my truck does not. I plan to take EVERYTHING off of my engine and swap it to the new but I was just wondering if the lower end and heads are the same as what I have now? Any other surprises I might encounter and what did the 5.4 with the egr come in? Supposedly this was an F150.
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I have a 2011 F350 with the towing package. I got it used as it and it was a northern truck. My towing mirrors won't extend in or out. They fold and unfold just fine. When I press the button to telescope them I can hear the motor running so I know the fuse is good. I took the glass off the mirrors and scraped some salt out of the joints. I sprayed some lube on the joints as well but still no luck. I also tried forcing them but not too much to avoid breaking them.
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I have a 2011 F350 with camper package (didn't want it). When I drive on a bumpy road (without 5th wheel), the truck suspension does not absorb the shock. The ruts just throws the truck side to side. Really hard, so I can't go on a dirt, rough road. On one bump it poped off my rear tire cap.
My problem may be with the camper package trying to keep the truck from going back and forth.
There is a 7/16 inch steal rod going from the truck bed, around the differential, and back up to the other side of the truck. Is that the rear stablizer rod?? Can I disconnect it? What would be
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2011 F350 with fluid leaking in through the firewall. Does the Hydro booster have to be replaced or is there a gaskets or seal on the rod that goes to the brake pedal?
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I feel a vibration and hear a rattle/grinding noise intermittently in the front driver or passenger floorboard only when the truck is cornering AND starting uphill or downhill. The vibration lasts a second or two and seems to be directly related to throttle/rpm acceleration while cornering and not something just loose and clunking around.
Dealer could not reproduce but it just happened again yesterday a couple of times in city traffic after dealer inspected and greased front end zirks.
What should I be looking for and how would you go about getting this resolved? It started happening in the last couple of months and never made a sound prior. Truck is in year 4 of 6 year warranty so I want to tackle now, but I need better understanding of problem.
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what is the best computer chip for a 2011 F-350 to get better gas mileage?
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I have a 2011 F-350 6.2L that has extremely hard shifts from 3 to 4 going up and 2 to 1 going down. Sometimes on downshifts it feels like something has ran into the back of the truck. I had the computer updated when the truck had approximately 40,000 miles on it and he assisted a little bit. The truck now has 140,000 miles and it is back to shifting horribly. I put it in the shop at the dealer on 30 December 2013. The dealer says that the problem is that the shift solenoids need to be replaced but that they are not available. The truck is still sitting at the dealer and I am being told that the parts should be available mid February.
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So my vents stopped actuating to different positions in my 2011 6.7 F350. I read that it could be a vacuum pump or solenoid issue. In any event, I turned 4x4 on and went down the street and made a u-turn - 4x4 seems to be on as the truck wants to hop the outside wheel when turning. I want to check the vacuum pump anyway but for the life of me cannot find it anywhere. Moreover, google turns up nothing which is making me start to believe the new trucks have a completely different system.
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I just bought a 11 f350 powerstroke. CC lariat 4x4 with 70k miles. Whenever i turn off the truck abt 30-45 seconds later a humming starts and continues for abt 1 minute. Sounds like a pump or a release of air? Is this a normal function or should i have it checked out. I've searched around but found very mixed answers.
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2011 F350 loaded. Stuck on vent mode. Found actuator can feel it trying to move but something is stuck. Tried to remove the actuator but not enough room between the motor and a steel bracket welded in to the dash. (Not removable). Do I have to remove the dash ? (I suspect something fell inside and is stopping the big vent door from moving as i did pull the motor far enough away to move all the door except the vent door.
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Just picked up a 2011 F350 6.2. (Couldn't take another day with my 6.0 which I'm now selling) New one has a few minor snags that I want to clean up. First one is the radio screen is black. Blank. Nothing there, although the radio does work. Seller had it tuned to a station. It has steering wheel controls. Here's the radio. Can this be repaired?
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At low speeds, I notice a squeel sound in all four wheels. Ford tells me that it is due to the type of metallic pads they use and is essentially brake dust noise that warrants no repair.
Any after market pads that are good quality for towing heavy loads, yet aren't metallic in composition? For instance, are porcelin pads a good choice.
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2011 F350 6.2L Gas engine. Last fall when I first started using my heat I noticed that the air would only blow through the dash vents. It will not switch over to defrost or floor. I have an XLT I am pretty sure the controls are the basic controls. there are push buttons to change from floor/vent and defrost. I do recall the summer before I had I noticed the problem I would hear a clicking sound in behind the dash. I figured something fell down the defrost vent. I see people who have had this problem on older trucks talking about an actuator. I've looked on ford parts site and I cannot find an actuator listed for the damper door. I was hoping to see what it looks like so I could try and find it in my truck.
I do have the dash pulled apart and I can reach up and manually move a lever that is connected to a cable. and I can change the air outlet to the floor, but I cannot get it to change to defrost. While I have the dash apart I also tried pressing the buttons on the heat control to see if the lever which I am moving by hand is moving at all and it is no. I was thinking if something was stuck in the system I would probably be able to feel the cable at least try to move, but it does not. The white cable which is connected to the lever which I am moving goes into the bottom of the duct work, where it goes from there, but I am assuming some kind of actuator?
This is right in front of the 4x4 shifter
Obviously behind the glove box
With the radio removed
I'm guessing this is 1 of the motors?
I stuck my camera up there to see what was there. This is as far forward as I could go on the drive rside and in front of the 4x4 shifter. You can see the end of the cable I'm assuming that is the door.....
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I can not hear the radio in my 2011 F350 XLT. I don't know what radio options there were for the XLT but mine has a Sync USB port, Bluetooth, steering wheel controls, CD player but it does not have a big display or touchscreen or anything like that.
When I try to adjust the volume with either the steering wheel or the radio dial, the indicator shows the volume is at half but the volume will not go up or down. I can hear nothing. All other buttons appear to work.
Have Inaccidentally gotten into some more that doesn't allow it to play any sound or adjust volume or is something just flat out wrong?
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Pinion seal on my truck is leaking. At auto parts store they gave me National seal part number 4278. It does not fit it is too small.I went back and other seal they have is too big. What is the part number?
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