Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Dies In Mud Hole - Insulation On The Hood Wet?
Jun 3, 2013
5.4L f250 is dead. Went through a small mud hole and the he truck just died. The muddy h20 was about 1/2 way up on my tires. After getting pulled out I checked the air filter and its dry. I did notice that the insulation on the hood was wet towards the back half of the engine. Guess maybe the fan sprayed it up there. Tried starter fluid with no luck. Just turns over. Also checked the fuel reset and its normal. Where should I start.
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Just brought my 2006 f250 crew cab v8 to the garage. My muffler has a fairly large hole in it. My mechanic said the piping to the muffler is still in good shape and literally, the only part that requires replacing is the muffler itself. I told him I'd like a bit more of a "throaty" sound than the original stock muffler. He suggested the dynomax super turbo. I checked a few US websites and it's about half price there with free shipping. In fact, most mufflers are about half price in the States. There are so many to choose from, Which brand and model to go with. I'd like to keep it as close to a direct fit as I can seeing as all the pipes are still good.
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Have a knocking noise on my right front when I hit a hole or when the wheel comes up like when I turn I to a drive way that has a little hill the right tire hits and I hear a popping Boise sounds like its under the truck but I can't place it? I have a 2003 f250 crewcab 4x4 with 6.0 and 6inch lift with 37 inch tires....
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2001 f-250 7.3 radiator. If you ever have to change the water pump think about removing the radiator first. Looks like they are paper thin and very easy to damage. Must be a problem since the local parts house carrys them in stock. Just thinking.
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I have a 2003 F250 5.4L crew cab with the 156"wb. She has just developed a hole in the stock muffler so it will need to be replaced.
I want something that is an easy-fit, has better flow, and maybe better sounding.
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1999 F-250 LD 5.4... There is a hole on the back of the upper intake manifold, just below the back of the throttle body, is a vacuum hose supposed to be attached here? Have a serious vacuum leak, no coolant loss, no overheating, just had cop's and spark plugs done, now she backfires, stalls and will not stay running, mech. says its an intake gasket but the gasket and lower intake manifold look new.
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Need the fuel system diagram or schematic for my truck.
1999 250 superduty v-10 Ser# 1FTNF20S1XEC67940
Every time I run it I smell gas. I changed the f/p 6mo ago. While I was working on it I noticed there was a hole rubbed in a small hose. I assumed it was a return line (smelled gas before too) and when I fixed it the smell went away until lately. I dropped the tank,yesterday and didn't see any problems. Just need to find out what hoses go where so I can replace the hoses??
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On my '97 F250 the rear brake line going to the rear right wheel has a rusted hole. It measures 50" total. Instead of bending a new metal line. I see they have a "poly armor" line that can be bent by hand( no tools needed). I see Autozone has them.
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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I am getting ready to make a set of front shackles for my truck for a temporary lift solution to fit my 35s until i can afford a complete suspension lift kit. I cannot for the life of me find the size of the hole for the bolts. I don't wanna drill it too big then have play in the shackle. My stockers are still installed so I don't have those to measure just yet. Need to verify the diameter hole i need to drill? and stock shackles look to be about 5.25" center to center, from what i can measure with them installed on the truck? so 2" lift, the new shackles will need to be about 9.25" center to center, right? (add 4", nets a 2" lift?)
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I was changing the vct solenoid on the driver side and I dropped a 3-4" Allen wrench inside the hole. I tool the valve cover off and can't see much down inside. Its not to the right by the cams, I think it fell down in front by the timing chains but I can't see it caught on a chain or anywhere. I drained the oil and took the filter off and looked in the oil pan with a snake camera, no luck.
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2015 with a 6.2 and 1200 miles. I have a whistle coming from under the hood. I didn't here it at first with the windows up and AC on but now that its cooler I have the windows open. I only here it at 2000 RPM or under while accelerating. Doesn't seem to matter how hard I am on the pedal or how heavy the load.
Dealer is going to have to fix it but would like to get a heads up for what it could be.
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I noticed a raw fuel smell today while driving. I came right back home & found fuel spread all over the under carriage. I popped the hood & found the fuel bowl and surrounding area wet as well as fuel puddled up in the valley.
Before I tear into things I'd like to get input about common causes. I've read that the separator valve gets it's o-rings eaten up by modern fuel. Could this possibly be it? If so are there special kits that deal with the low sulfur & biodeisel?
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My truck has been broke down for a few months and I just got it started a few days ago my alternator was bad so I replaced it yesterday I also replaced the map sensor now I have a hypertech installed in it and showing a Wastegate fail error code and anyways my truck only from a dead stop acts real sluggish and 3 times in a row when I go up a fairly steep hill it will almost instantly die just go and then it doesn't want to start for a while after I roll it back on level ground now I can back up a hill and no problem its only when im heading uphill its really weird
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While engine braking I started hearing a squeal under the hood , when I started accelerating it became a little louder, I pulled over and when I rev it up it gets louder and has a little rattle sound, sounds like it coming from the turbo....
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So it was -10 last night didn't have my truck plugged in fired it up this morning took a few cranks but started heard a wine under the hood figured it was cold let it warm up for a half hour went to a buddy's for a party left a few hours later driving home truck was up to temp running fine then I thought I heard a wine again turned my music off rolled my windows down and it sounded like a Cummings lopping shaking like crazy lost power couldn't make it up a hill and bogged out and died look under it and has some oil on the axle tube called for a tow truck ten time no answers so I tried to fire up again and stared and ran fine made it home no problems. My question is is it a fuel issue I use anti gel every fill up but is it still possible maybe water? Or could it be my hpop it hasn't thrown any codes or lights all pressures and gauges read fine. Also my rear main leaks along with oil pan was it just some water running through or should I be worried...
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I have searched and tried everything that was suggested to open the hood on my 2000 and nothing works. When looking form the front you can see the hood release operate, but nothing happens. What part of the release do I need to operate to get the hood to open?
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So I've been having this problem that sometimes when I am turning the truck dies. It doesn't stutter or anything it just shuts off and will start right back up. It doesn't do it all the time either. Was also having an issue where the windshield wipers would shut the truck off too. But I don't think that's the same problem.
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Battery tested good, tried jumping it as well with cables and with portable pack.
I hear two clicks under the hood (NOT a continuous type click you hear when the battery is dead). The first seems to be up near the passenger fender well when the key is turn to the start position, the second click seems to be down under the motor near the passenger side (near the starter I assume, couldn't tell very well) when the key is RELEASED from the start position. The motor doesn't budge, I don't see any belts flinch or pulleys move to indicate that the starter is engaging. I don't hear anything that sounds like a starter engaging to me.
If not, where the starter solenoid is on this thing? is it separate like the other older ford's I've owned or is it now on the starter? Is there any fuse-able links that could cause this? Wiring diagram? Is there a way to jump the solenoid like in the old school days (e.g. with a screwdriver or wrench)? would like to get this home without towing it or fixing what is really wrong with it in the parking lot.
It's in negative to single digit temps here in Indy now, I fired it up in the morning in negative temps, drove it work. Came out to go home, and now this. So something happened between this morning and now and it's not the battery.
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I have a 2000 Ford F-350 V10 Triton that is currently not running. It all started when I was going to work at 7:00am it just shut off in the middle of the road. I had someone to take out of the road and found out one of the fuses had blown. It was replaced and not even a mile down the road it died again, luckily next to Orielly's. They came out and did a test and found out it was coil 10. I purchased and installed a new one and went down the road only to have it die again. I replaced the fuse again, and went back to Oriellys and just as I was backing into the parking spot it died, this time smoke coming from under the hood. The brand new coil had caught on fire but I extinguished the flame and got the coil unplugged before any damage happened. Replaced the same coil and it ran fine until I got home, let it idle and it was fine. Then, two days later I started it and it died, again smoke coming from under the hood but no flames or fire. Now cylinder 10 does not fire any more. What the cause is?
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I got to replace mine because the hood won't stay up on it's own and is heavy to lift. I was wondering if these things fail often. Mine is an '08.
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