Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Died Going Down Road - Oil Pressure Gauge On Dash Dropped
Mar 7, 2017
2002 7.3 powerstroke, no info about service or work done, looks to have a new hpop, know for sure that there was a new lpop installed, claims no gouging in front cover, died going down road oil pressure gauge on dash dropped and was taken to a shop and did not get complete diagnosis, where should i start? Shop drained oil to take sample and no metal shavings or flakes were present according to them...
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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On my 05 Super Duty, the gauge light for the fuel and oil pressure are out. The needles are still illuminated red but the backlight for the gauges are dark. Are these replaceable bulbs or are they a circuit board diode or something that can't be easily replaced?
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2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
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I bought a 2006 F250 6.0L a couple of months ago, from a dealership. It's been bulletproofed already, has an intake, coolant filter kit. Has 95k (mileage). Today, my fuel gauge dropped to empty from 3/4 of a tank for a couple of miles and set off the CE light. I hooked my scan tool to it, to clear the code (P0460).
After just checking other things out with the scan tool. I cleared it and went on... I had to run to the store, later on... I was pulling out of the neighborhood and the gas pedal was a lot more "touchy" and the truck, responded to it and it launched pretty good and blew a good amount of black smoke.
Do any of you think this has/or had a tuner on it and I may have activated it with my scanner?
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I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
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Have a 06 f350 just rebuilt the engine. Started up ran it down the road a couple miles and lost low side oil pressure. Got back to the house and will not start again so put a gauge on and it only has 3 lbs after cranking for 10-15 sec. Pulled the balancer and lpop cover and front cover had some deeper scoring then before. No noticeable stuff in the pan or filter. Changed out the front cover and lpop. Still has only about 5 psi.
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I have a 2013 F550, v10. At idle, the oil pressure gauge drops and the red oil light comes on. If I hit the gas, the gauge pops back up. I swapped out the oil pressure switch. That didn't fix the problem.
I thought maybe the gauge was faulty, so I bought a 2 inch mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked that up, leaving the factory gauge disconnected.
I watched the oil pressure start around 50 psi cold, and it slowly fell to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. The truck has 65k miles on it. There is no knocking, no ticking, no loss of performance.
I cannot imagine that at 65k miles, that it would be a worn engine. Right??
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So we had a subzero weather week last week and on one of the below zero days by low tire pressure light goes on - on my dash. I've checked all 4 tires and they are not low. Do I have a bad sensor? Or is the cold causing this?
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Suddenly my cruise control dropped out. With some investigation I'm pretty sure it's that sensor or switch stuck to on position. Brake light is on. Checked the brake system and everything works well. Fluid is full all 4 pads replaced 2 days ago. Plenty brake power.
The question is: how can I bypass that switch to get my cruise control back? I see 4 wires coming out of the switch: red, blue, green, red/orange, green/purple. How do I do it?
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I was driving on the highway last night when it was like somebody dropped my transmission into neutral. I was cruising at 50mph slight hill. There was no noise or any thing. Now I have nothing.
It's a 2005 f350 4x4 automatic
I can only assume I'll be needing a new transmission but I am hopeful of a small problem...
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So yesterday I drove across town and back to pick up a piece of lawn equipment. About a 30 min hwy drive each way. On the way there I was in stop and go traffic for about 15mins and noticed toward the end the truck would pull hard to the right when stopping hard and sudden. I figure it was my steering. Been having issues with horrible steering since my last alignment and adjusting the caster. Truck wanders, steering feels loose, will not fully recenter, and feels like it binds then releases toward center position. That's a different issue, I assume. I stop on the way to get some cash and everything is normal. Pick up the equipment and drive back. When coming to a stop the truck will pull towards the right and when I suddenly stop it now pulls to the left.
I get home and get out and smell something burning and hot. Grabbed my IR thermometer and hit both front wheels. Passenger is 150f brake rotor is 175f, drive is 280f brake rotor is 580f. So im assuming my caliper seized up or started to stick. I plan to jack up the front and look at the hubs and calipers. Any other test I can do to narrow down the culprit. I am thinking the hoses may be collapsing especially since I had to disconnect and flip them during the lift. Just weird that the hard pull would switch sides if only the drivers was sticking. Could my bad steering and brake issue be related? I have also noticed my braking power has dropped recently. Brake fluid looks good but power steering smells like brake fluid and is orange.
Pulled the tire when I got home today. A little resistance when spinning by hand, more than there should be. Pulled the caliper and greased the slides. Found out my hub is bad so those are on the short list now. Reassembled and had my wife hit the brakes while I spun the tire. Progressively got harder and harder to spin. Was looking at the brake hoses, how much should they move and ''shrink'' when the brakes are applied? Also if I hit the brakes repeatedly while rolling down my drive way the pedal gets harder and the truck doesn't want to stop and the pedal will slowly push all the way to the floor. Now I am just lost at what is causing my braking issue.
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Just about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
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I was changing the vct solenoid on the driver side and I dropped a 3-4" Allen wrench inside the hole. I tool the valve cover off and can't see much down inside. Its not to the right by the cams, I think it fell down in front by the timing chains but I can't see it caught on a chain or anywhere. I drained the oil and took the filter off and looked in the oil pan with a snake camera, no luck.
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01 F350...4R100/V-10/4wd. Sometimes get a vibration driving down the road. First thought of tire out of balance but then the vibration goes away and may not come back for a few days or more. It starts sometimes around 30-40 mph and stays all the way up to around 65 mph. Even slowing down it vibrates or shakes. I can stop and take off again with nothing happening. Would think tires out of balance would do it all the time. And a few times....pulling my 5th wheel...making a right turn out of a parking lot.....it feels like a rumble from the rear.
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While driving down the road the truck will just cut off. We wait a few mins and start it again can drive a few miles and it cuts off again. we have replaced the ignition coils and it is still doing this. No codes are coming up to get any idea what it can be?
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Not sure if it's a bearing or some kind of U joint. I am just starting to feel a little clunking in the wheel on a rough road. It is not bad but I feel it, is it hard to fix this issue, and what is the correct part I am looking for. Steering Wheel Bearings? This is for a 08 F350 SRW 4X4 KR V10
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TBC fault has been showing on my 2006 Ford F-250 for a couple of years dealer said it wasn't an issue--- check engine light has been on for months, then lost speedometer back in November. Intermittently radio and fuel gauge shut off while driving--- stared needing a boost in really cold weather for the last month.
Driving today my battery just died while driving and I had the truck towed to mechanic--- they put new battery in and ran electrical diagnostics. Saying that it might be timing chain/cam shaft OR electrical components for computer system... I'm lost and so are they and don't want to spend thousands while they diagnose the source.....
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I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauged was acting odd, and clicking under the dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on the brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect the battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not a battery, won't even jump Battery is good, the power to starter, Posted this also in light-duty trucks wrong place think this is the better place. Gauges pinned to right with key off
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I have a 2004 Ford f250 6.0. When driving it down the road i will hear a loud spinning sound, sorta like putting a playing card in your bicycle spokes. The sound can be heard until I make a complete stop where at that time the sound stops and a clunk can be felt. After that the truck sounds normal. This also only happens once between starting the truck and turning it off. I took it into the shop and they could not hear the sound, all they said is i need new ball joints.
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A few weeks ago, my employees were driving home one of my work trucks, a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 Crew w. 130K miles. They were on a straight road in a small town when the steering went completely out. The truck veered into a telephone pole. No one was injured. The truck has major damage to the front passenger's side.
I finally got the truck back to my shop today. It is quite evident what caused the problem. The gear/splined shaft that protrudes from the steering box and is connected to the pitman arm sheared completely off.
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