Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Cranks But Won't Start / Backfired Then Shut Off
Sep 6, 2015
I have a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4 XLT 4x4. I got home turned it off went to move it and it cranks but won't start. I sprayed brake cleaner in the intake and it started for a few seconds, back fired then shut off. Where is the fuel pump relay? Or how can I power the pump to test it? All the fuses are good, I swapped the relays under the hood with each other and still nothing. The fuel pump shut off switch is not tripped. Is their a way to test it?
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On my 1999 F350 SD Crew Cab, 6.8l V10, it will crank, but won't start. I have checked fuel pump fuses and relays, and all are good. I checked the "collision switch" and it is good. I pulled the fuel pump and connected it to the battery and it works, but there is no voltage at the fuel pump connector nearest the fuel pump. I have spoken to a Ford mechanic and he said that if their is voltage from the output of the collision switch, that it must be a wiring problem between the switch and the fuel pump connector, but I have but I have been unable to find a problem. Anything else to try?
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Had truck engine detailed a couple of months ago. Looked great, ran bad. Plugs were wet. Checked the codes, dried the plugs in the cyls that were missing, started running great. Don't use the truck much. I had left the code reader attached and it ran the battery down. I was away from home, so I had AAA jump it. Let it idle for an hour. Took it for a drive, it ran great. Stopped once and it cranked great, started right up.
Stopped again, but did not shut off the engine, went to take off, it bogged down, no power and stopped. Would not start again (full tank of gas), but cranked really good, and fast. It acted like it was getting just a little fuel, so I think at this point it's a fuel problem. I don't hear the fuel pump come on when I turn on the ignition. I tell the whole story because I am wondering if something under the hood could have gotten wet? I think it's all dried out, but?
My plan is to spray some starting fluid into the intake and see if it starts to confirm that it's fuel. If it is a fuel problem, what then? Is there a fuel relay? I know there is a fuse but I haven't been able to get to it yet (alarm horn bolted above it). The holidays and work of course are putting a damper on my troubleshooting. If I have to pull the tank to change the pump, how do I empty the tank? 99 F250 V10....
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My 1999 Ford F350 V10 will crank forever but will not start. Seems like it isn't getting fuel.
Here are the facts.
Truck 8 months ago was used by my brother.
When he got back 2 weeks it sat then truck wouldn't turn over. Thinking it was a bad battery I charged it But then I let the truck sit 8 months.
I put the battery back in and when I started cranking it the gas peddle felt floppy.
SO, I realized I was out of gas. I went and got 5 gallons.
I turned the key on and off like 5 or 6 times and then tried to start the truck.
The Pedal is NOT Floppy anymore. It has pressure like the gas is back in the line again.
But the truck will crank and crank and crank without turning over. It won't even try to turn over.
The truck has a brand new Fuel Filter in it that was put in 3 months before my bro used it so it worked after that was changed.
I assume maybe it can be the Fuel Pump but WHY would that go bad from sitting and wouldn't the Floppy feeling in the Gas peddle STILL be in the pedal if the pump was bad??
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I don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
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I bought a 2001 F250 V10. When I first started it cold at the dealer that I bought it from, it cranked for a couple seconds and didn't start. I cranked it again and it caught and started right up. I figured it probably had to do with the truck sitting for a while with no one looking at it.
The next week of driving it, I never had any issues with it not starting on the first try.
1,900 miles later, it's sitting in my driveway in Minneapolis. It's Thursday and I haven't driven it since Sunday. I go out to start it, it cranks and catches, then immediately dies. Subsequent tries to start only result in cranking with no hint of catching. I've given it a few minutes to cool off between attempts and still nothing.
It's 24 degrees out. I'm not sure what weight oil is in the motor. It's got a full tank of fresh gas that was purchased here in Minneapolis. The battery is strong, as it's cranking really fast.
I've just come over from a 93 F250 Diesel, where I might expect problems starting at this temperature, but issues from a gas engine surprise me. What this might be? I bought this truck to be more reliable than my 93 that had 276k miles on it. This one is only a baby with 80k miles.
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My battery light on the dash came on so I tested the battery and it's OK. The last time the truck was started it was 10 degrees and ran for about 3 minutes and shut off because I knew the alternator had to come out. Next I pulled the alternator and had it tested and found to be bad. It was rebuilt and put back in along with a new belt. The motor cranks over well but will not fire. I checked the fuel pump shut off switch and it had not popped up so it seemed fine. The fuses look ok. I ran the battery down a bit so I put the charger on it to bring it up to full charge. When I pulled the alternator I touched it's battery wire to metal for a split second. Sounds like I need to do a pressure test on the fuel system or listen to see if the pump is starting. The truck has 130,000 miles on it.
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i just bought a 99 F250 4WD with the 5.4 in it i put a brand new starter in it. When i turn the key to try to start it, it just cranks the motor once and stops. The starter isn't grinding or clicking, the motor clicks once and move the belt and pulley a little but that's it. What would cause this?
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It has a 7.3 bone stock in it. When it is cranking you can hear a relay clicking. it's behind the dash just below the radio. There are 3 relays together 1 big one which is for trailer lights and 2 small ones which i don't know where they go. but i replaced all 3 and i still hear the clicking ONLY when the engine is cranking.
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2007 6.0l cranks but no start. Read all the forums and I think I performed all the checks. Getting a ficm/ cam sensor/crank sensor no sync. I'm also getting 84.70% at the ipr while cranking. Do I have multiple problems? Watched videos on either the ficm or ipr percentage but not one that had both problems. Getting injector clatter and fuel pump runs. Didn't see anything obvious with the harness.
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So it was -10 last night didn't have my truck plugged in fired it up this morning took a few cranks but started heard a wine under the hood figured it was cold let it warm up for a half hour went to a buddy's for a party left a few hours later driving home truck was up to temp running fine then I thought I heard a wine again turned my music off rolled my windows down and it sounded like a Cummings lopping shaking like crazy lost power couldn't make it up a hill and bogged out and died look under it and has some oil on the axle tube called for a tow truck ten time no answers so I tried to fire up again and stared and ran fine made it home no problems. My question is is it a fuel issue I use anti gel every fill up but is it still possible maybe water? Or could it be my hpop it hasn't thrown any codes or lights all pressures and gauges read fine. Also my rear main leaks along with oil pan was it just some water running through or should I be worried...
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Finally finshed the installing the new motor. Motor cranks but wont start. I have spark on all cylinders. Pressure in fuel rail but not sure how much. I don't hear any "clicking" coming from the fuel injectors. i measured the resistance on the injectors and its good. I just went out and got a new battery for it. I am not sure where to go from here.
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I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
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OK, I have a 2002 F350 with 160k miles that cranks fine, but has a hard time starting when it is cold. By cold I mean that it is not hot from being driven in the last 5 hrs or so. No problem starting after being at rifle practice for 3 hrs or after a trip to the store. Always have trouble starting in the morning, like this morning when the temperature outside was 49 deg. I have to crank for quite a while to get it to turn over, but once it catches, it runs like a champ. Afraid I'm going to wear my starter or batteries out because It seems like I have to crank for about 2 minutes.
I have a fairly new CPS replaced less than 15k miles ago, new glow plugs, and recently replaced the leaky bleeder valve on the bowl. This difficult starting condition came about some time before the bleeder valve seal repair, and is still doing it after the repair. This problem seems to have cropped up on it's own unrelated to any work I have done. I am using Mobile 1 5W-40 diesel oil. When the no start occurs, there is no smoke present out of the tail pipe like what you would get if you had bad glow plugs. There is just no fuel getting into the injectors.
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Shade tree mechanic, new to diesels and new to forum. I have the dreaded 03' 6.0 F350. It cranks over strong but will not start after its warmed up. I went to Auto Zone and they gave me the following codes: P2291, P132B, P0672, P0402, P0284. Once it's started it runs fine.
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Dealing with a 02 f350 7.3 powerstroke . The engine cranks fine . It fires but won't start smoke coming from exhaust while cranking and firing so seems to have good fuel . When it does start it misses for a few minutes and blue/white smoke . When the miss ends so does the smoke and starts fine after that and runs great until it sits for 12 or more hrs . Then back to same start issues . Fresh oil ,new glow plugs, new cover gaskets , glow plugs test at 1.3 ohm across all 8 of them , no voltage drop through glow plug relay , good voltage to each glow plug when tested right at glow plug terminal on each feed right at glow plug , fuel filter housing stays full doesn't seem to bleed back , high pressure oil pump pressure test was high enough to trash a 1000 lbs gauge in 2 to 3 revalutions of engine when cranking . Tested at presure sensor port .
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My 2006 6.0 shut off immediatEly after starting this morning and never started back up. I have a scan Guage 2 hooked up. I'm showing no ficm voltage and no sync even when cranking. I physically checked the ficm voltage with a dvm at the screw to the far right on the ficm, and I have 48 volts. Why do I have 48 volts at the ficm, but 0 volts showing on my scan guage? And no sync when cranking?
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
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I have a 2000 f250, 5.4l triton v8 that cranks like crazy, but won't start. When I spray a little starter fluid in it it will run until the spray wears off. Brand new battery and full gas tank. it does have check engine light on dash, probably from the o2 sensor as the exhaust has almost completely rusted out. Also on a side note the cruise control will not engage.
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I recently pulled the stock tp38 off. The reason for rebuilding is the turbo started making an awful screeching on start up and shutdown when the compressor is at a low rpm and starts to wobble.
The shaft has 1/2 in and out play with 1/8 in every direction. the compressor has some wear marks but no chips, the turbine has some good chunks missing. from what i can see there are no marks on the housings.
What should i put in it as far as new compressor and turbine/shaft. nothing that requires machining. I am not looking to run more boost or anything, just looking to reduce spool up time if possible. Any specific rebuild kit? what turbine and compressor should I go with?
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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