Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Crank Case Holds 14 Qts - Oil Capacity?
Nov 11, 2012
I recently purchased 1999 7.3 PSD The owners manual says that the crank case holds 14 qts. I have read on other sites 15 quarts. In my engine 14 is barely at the add mark. The cross hatch area is 2 quarts to the high mark. My question is should I put is 15 quarts to get the level up onto the cross-hatched area or leave it down at the add mark ?? I'm using Motorcraft 15 W 40 Dino oil. and I replaced the filter with the correct Fram filter.
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In all fairness, this isn't for my SD, but there aren't really any forums for my '94 Villager and all A/C systems work pretty close to the same, so I thought I'd at least throw my question up here and see what comes of it. It's a bit of a hodge podge of manufacturers (Mercury, Nissan, Ford, Mitsubishi), but it's a Mercury, so technically a Ford.....ish.
My A/C crapped out last summer, so I finally got around to rebuilding it earlier this summer. I replaced absolutely everything except the rear expansion valves and the evaporators, which I flushed out with A/C flush and compressed air real good. Then I blew a line on a dirt road because I didn't get a line all the way clipped in. I got a bit paranoid about grit in the line, so I went ahead and replaced the line and dropped in a new dryer, sucked it all out good again, put a splash of POG oil in there, and filled it up with 134a.
According to the specs I could find, the capacity of my system is 52oz, or 4.3 of the standard 12oz cans. I always bleed the lines between cans to rid the lines of air and moisture as much as I can, so 4.5 cans usually gets about 52oz in the system. Anyways, it was 90 outside, so my readings should be 45-55 and 250-270. After adding 4.5 cans, and letting it run for a bit, my readings were still a bit low and my vent temp was only 60, so I went ahead and finished off the can. They were still reading low, so I sorta reluctantly hooked up another can and started filling. It sucked the whole can right up any my readings were 45 over 220 with vent temp at about 57. The low side is about on the low end of the acceptable range, but the high side still isn't quite up to the desired range and I don't want to stick another can in even though my readings indicate I'm not over-filled. I'm wondering if something's not right in there, or if maybe I'm just expecting too much from a 23 year old A/C design...?
Strolling into work today at 35-45 mph, it was a touch over 80 outside and my vent temp was a smudge over 40, so I guess that's not too bad. My radiator fans works fine, but they don't move a bunch of air. I usually drop an additional ~15 degrees when I'm on the move as opposed to sitting at idle.
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I'm close to pulling the trigger on a Crew cab F-250 Powerstroke, 156" wheelbase. Need to know about fuel tank capacity? Ford's website and manual are somewhat cryptic. I believe it's 26 gallons.
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I have a 99 F350 with a 29 gallon tank. I filled it up yesterday and the total gallons was a little over 24. The low fuel light was on and the gauge only goes up to almost 3/4. I recently bought this truck. I've searched for a thread on here possibly addressing this but have been unable to find one. I've been going through possible issues in my head.... What the problem is?
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I have a 2014 350 crew diesel short box. I am told, I have a 28 gallon tank but can't get over 22 gallons in it even though my gauge show e and my read out says I have 10 miles left until empty? Dealer says the left over 6 gallons is a reserve...
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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For about a week or now i have been trying to track down a sound from my truck, i had another post up and was finally with jhl3 able to determine that the sound is coming from my transfer case. The other thread with video of sound is located here : [URL] .... I've got a little bit of time to mess with i now
Quick rundown, began hearing odd sounds about a week ago, determined that it is transfer case. Front hubs are unlocked, esof switch is set to 2wd. Can not turn front drive shaft. I just put some zip ties on front drive shaft and went for a short spin, determined front drive shaft IS turning. Hubs are not locked and 4x4 is not engaged, did the sharp slow turn test, no feel of pull from front end.
Im not quite sure where to go from here, going to check connections at tcase motor and some relays.
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Originally it would light up on the dash, the hubs would lock, but the transfer case would not shift in to 4 wheel. Followed the troubleshooting I've found, was receiving power at the connection on the shift motor but it was not turning.
So I went and bought a new motor, installed it, still wouldn't turn. (with the motor off the transfer case but electrically connected). So I found a few more replies about the relays, swapped them, nothing.
Removed the covers and manually flipped the connection, nothing. Now my hubs are locked, transfer case is not, and I get nothing when I change the switch on the dash. (no lights, no hub click shift, no 4 low, nada). All the fuses are good, just doesn't work.
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The transfer case on my 2004 F350 6.0L 4WD DRW, 230K miles, just blew to pieces Sunday night. See images below. What could cause this?
I just had the front drive shaft rebuilt with new universals and ball. It was making a metallic squealing noise after this.
I noticed that the front drive shaft did not spin freely when parked in nuetral and set for 2WD. I thought the front drive shaft would only engage when in 4WD.
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We have a 2000 F250 7.3L Diesel. A few years ago we switched out the auto hubs for manual Warn hubs. We've had no problems with 4x4 since that time, until now!! The 4x4 Hi light is on and the transfer case is engaged. Since the hubs are manual we have them unlocked, however we can't get the 4x4 to disengage. At one point, tried changing to low and it hesitated but finally went in to 4 Lo, then we had a hard time getting it out of 4Lo and back to 4 Hi. Here's what we've tried--checked fuses, checked and replaced relays, checked wiring connection at the transfer case. Husband used volt meter to test power at transfer case wiring connector--showed 0.5 volt of power with the key on. No change in reading. Checked power at relay--about 14.5 volts there. Took truck to repair shop but their computer could not communicate with the GEM.
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Trying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
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I just changed transfer case fluid on my father's F-350 for the first time in 13 years. (over 230k). Removed fill plug first and fluid gushed out of the fill hole unexpectedly. Did not have catch pan ready, so made a mess. I thought it was just over filled form the factory, but too much was coming out to be simple overfill. Almost 2 qt came out of the fill plug.
Did some google search and found many Ford trucks have failed transmission output shaft seal and transmission fluid leaks out to transfer case, causing transfer case to overfill. I am yet to check transmission fluid level, but considering how much came out of it that probably is the case.
Now, how bad of the problem this really is? Will overfilled transfer case cause some serious problem? 4x4 is rarely used (once or twice a year in winter) on this truck and from what I understand transfer case doesn't really do anything in 2WD other than just passing output from transmission through.
There are no fluid leaking outside and repairing the seal would be a too much of work for me.
Also changed rear differential fluid for the first time and I was surprised how clean the fluid was. There were thin layer of black sticky residue (sludge?) covering everything, but the fluid itself looked clean and no visible metal shavings. I guess that is why Ford said it does not require change under normal condition.
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2001 F250, 7.3L ... After much diagnosis, I've found that the 4 positive feeds to the transfer case relay base have no power to them. The fuse that feeds them (#17 CJB) is fine and when I jump from the fuse hot side directly to the transfer case motor contacts on the relay base, it shifts fine. As far as I can tell, there is only one wire leading from that fuse so there must be a junction block somewhere that splits it into the 4 wires that feed the relay block. I've looked underneath and found nothing. How the 1 wire gets split into 4? On diagrams this junction point is labeled, but I don't know where to find that.
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Made a short run to get lumber yesterday and when I got home the truck smelled hot I checked it out and found a transmission oil leak at the rear of the transmission in front of the transfer case. can not really see what is leaking only has 22,000 miles. What may have happen. 2011 F250 4x4 6.7....
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Truck is an 03 F350 with the 6.0. It sometimes sounds like the shift motor on the transfer case is trying to engage. It has the vacuum system which is blocked off. Warn aftermarket hubs. Switch on the dash with 2wd, 4wd and 4 low.
It's kind of an off and on thing. Try to engage for a few or more seconds then nothing for awhile then repeat. It sounds like it's at the transfer case. It could very well be coming from firewall/engine bay area as well. Is there anything between the dash switch and the motor?
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I'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
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I have 99 f350 single rear wheels 4x4 . I went to start it this morning and it would crank but not start b/c it was cold. I plugged it in and still wouldn't start then it wouldn't even crank. I checked all fuses swapped relays and I have new batteries. The last thing I did was hit on the starter a few times and it started. So I went and bought a new not remand a new starter and put it on and now it won't crank!? I get 12v at the little wire on the selenoid on the fender. So now what?
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I'm waiting on Christmas shopping to be over to replace the ICP and IPR on my '01 F250. In the mean time I have been going out every few days to crank it and let it run up to temp. Now, however, my batteries have slowly been getting drained over the past month, to where it finally wouldn't crank yesterday. So I'm wondering if I now have a drain somewhere, or is running it at idle for about 20 mins just not sufficient.
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I work for the transportation department at a school and we have a bunch of 6.0 f350/450 busses and this bus I am working on has a no crank condition. Bus in question is a 2006 F450 6.0.
Currently if you turn the key to start the engine the solenoid just clicks but the engine wont crank. The person working on it before me assumed that the batteries and or starter were bad so they were replaced(0 miles on them right now) but the problem still persists.
First thing I did when I started working on this bus was jumping the starter relay and the starter engages and starts the engine perfectly. That being said I know the starter wiring is fine.
Secondly I looked through the wiring diagrams and saw that the PCM grounds the 85 terminal on the starter relay so I tried grounding the 85 and I was able to crank the engine with the key so that was telling me that the actual starter relay is fine. Next I went and swapped the PCM with another 2006 f450 thinking maybe the grounding switch in the PCM was bad and I have the same no crank condition. The PCM from the bus in question was swapped to the doner bus and it cranked perfectly(PCM in question is fine).
Next thing I did was look up all of the ground locations for the PCM or anything to do with the starter and they were all cleaned and still have the same no crank.
Looking around on the internet I see that the viscous fan can cause a problem if it shorts out so I unplugged that and no change in the no crank. I also saw that the trans range sensor could cause a no crank condition but I am getting back up lights/beeper and the bus "wants" to crank so I am thinking that the TRS is not the problem.
Lastly I tried hooking my Modis scanner up to this bus and was NOT able to communicate with either of the PCM's I tried. Not sure if this is related to my no crank condition. I checked all of the wiring that I could but could not find any chafing or breaks in any of the OBDII wiring. My planned next step is to replace the TRS...
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So I have a 2003 6.0L Powerstroke 1 ton. I just replaced the starter thinking the solenoid was the problem. But my luck it wasn't. I turn the key and the ding stops and it's quiet. Dash lights go off. I have the engine light and water in fuel light on. ABS is on I think aswell. I've run out of options.
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
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