Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Coolant Leaking From EGR Unit - Gasket Replacement
Feb 16, 2016
Having some coolant leaking from the EGR unit in my 2011 super duty.. Dealer says it's a 14 dollar part, but labor is a few hours to replace.. Not sure I see how that can be, but I wanted to ask on Here to see how long this should take..
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To all those folks that said I had a head gasket putting pressure into my cooling system and causing it to overheat, you were right. It is a 2003 F250 with 80000 5.4 l. I have had to replace mexhaust manifold bolts on left side (horrible job, couldn't get one out). Back fenders are rusted out, under the extended cab rusted, doors are rusting at the bottom. My friend/mechanic said it was time to get rid of it. I don't really have thousands of $$ for a different one, but also, replacing the head gaskets are in the thousands for a repair bill. I have looked at used 2008 250 4 door and they are 20000+++ sheesh, but a new one is out of the question. Do I get the gasket situation repaired?
It does not act up all the time, some times it never overheats, sometimes it will. Somewhat infrequent ( I had one mechanic look at it and he tried 3 different times, and it did not overheat. Temp gage will peg, coolant resevior will overflow, but is not hot (100 degrees). I dont have the really have the money to put into a newer model, but I am worried about being nickeled and dimed to death after dumping a couple of thousand into a head gasket, plus I suppose I need to have the other side manifold gasket/bolts checked too. It seems like low miles to be having issues, yes I realize all will rust, but this year, as evidnet in our area, was really suspect-able to rust.
Not worried about the body, is it worth it to spend 2500 for head gasket repair, or trade up a couple of years, less miles, etc. My worry is, I already had to fix 1 exhaust manifold gasket, know head gasket to fix a cooling issue, do I cut my losses and move to another truck, or spend the money for repairs. I don't really have money for either but want to make a good decision. Truck has not been abused and has been serviced as scheduled. Had to put on new brakes and rotors, as would expect, and ball joints too. Oil looks fine, no contamination, and coolant is clear. Will the head gasket get worse? As I said before, it is intermittent, but I don't trust it for long trips.
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I have a 2002 F250 5.4with Air Conditioning. The valve covers are leaking and the gaskets need to be replaced. I am attempting the valve cover gaskets. I was able to get the drivers side cover off with some difficulty. For the passenger side valve cover. There is very little " no" room to get at the bolts. I read somewhere that I may have to drop the engine on that side. I will do that if I have to.
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my oil pan gasket is leaking on my 2002 f350 5.4l 4x4. I have read lots of threads on replacing this gasket on an f150 but haven't seen one for an f250/350. so what is the procedure to do this job on an f350?
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I noticed a thumping sound in the truck bed when I'm driving and took a look underneath. The rubber gaskets for the truck bolt are all rotted and falling apart. Does it have to be replaced?
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Have my oil leaking-passenger side head gasket replaced (along with the drivers side for preventative measures).
To ease my mind at such an expensive repair on a truck I just recently bought, I was wondering what else gets replaced with this repair.
Obviously the head gaskets along with head studs, coolant and oil, but anything else? valve cover gaskets? intake gasket?
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The trans temp guage on my '08 F-350. V-10 started acting erratically, and the wrench icon popped up on the display. i crawled under the truck to look for the sending unit and it's lead. i assume that i found the lead. it is encased in a corrugated sleeve, and appears to be a vaccuum type tube and boot connector? the boot still had a small round gray cap plugged into it. it appears that the cap was never glued (go figure) upon assembly. i have tried to reach up on top of the trans to find the sending unit to figure out the best angle of attack. i can barely touch it with the tip of my finger. going with mechanical guages is out of the question at the moment, so i'm wondering can it be driven any distance this way, AND any schmooze tricks developed to get at the sucker without dropping the cross member or exhaust????
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I am replacing the head gaskets on a 2006 Ford F250 6.0 .... I have heard that I should replace the head bolts with studs. Do I torque the studs just like the bolts?
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I have a leak from the oil pan gasket and oil coolant lines. From the research I have done, it looks like I have to lift the motor to change the oil pan gasket. Any way to get this done without lifting the motor??? 2000 f250 5.4 2wd....
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So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
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My grandfathers 99 F350, started suddenly, do not know if it was while sitting or while driving. Its more of a stream than anything else. Coming from the rear, cannot see where, appears to be toward the vee of the engine, not inside the bellhousing. The firewall insulation is damp from coolant. Doesnt start until engine starts warming up.
Is there something commonly replaced back there? Didnt want to yank the intake in 20* weather for exploratory surgery. Is not the heater hoses. Idk if the EGRs are cooled on these, thats about my only idea other than freeze plug, coolant tests good down to -20ish, hasnt been below zero in weeks (prior to leak). Not familiar with any of the modular engines.
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I'm a total beginner and am slowly nursing an '87 F350 7.5L back to running condition as a plow/farm truck. It regularly loses coolant, even on very short trips around the farm and I figured that radiator needed to be replaced. Today I was hooking a snow plow up and had it running for about 15 minutes when light grey smoke started to come out of the vents in the cab. Looking at the engine, I noticed a lot of coolant leaking out from below the heater housing. The coolant was dripping out of what looks like a protruding bit of pipe a where a hose should be attached. What am I looking at here?
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I recently did the water pump and hoses due to seeping around the water pump gasket. While there, I decided to replace the overflow reservoir as well - old and slightly discolored. I'm now on my 3rd overflow reservoir - they are all leaking at the front seam. I don't think I have a blown headgasket or injector issues - no signs of white smoke ever, and there isn't any oil or fuel in the coolant. I've also tried a new cap, but it's starting to leak before I build any noticeable pressure - I can back off on the cap and don't get much pressure released. So - just bad luck on parts from Ford? All were OEM from different Ford dealers.
Pics - hard to see on here but go to Imgur to zoom in. [URL] ...
1999 F350 7.3 CCLB Dually. Stock except for DP Tuner and Gauges.
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I think I have a clamp or something loose as i am dripping coolant from a black and silver hose/pipe on teh drivers side of the motor.
I can't see any clamps, well clamps i can recognize. how is this black pipe connected to the aluminum pipe? at that seam is where it's leaking.
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The rear hub outer oil seal on my 05 350 is leaking. The 350 Super Duty Twin Cab was never imported into the UAE so can I use the same seals as the Excursion or another Ford vehicle?
Failing that do we know the name and part number of a seal manufacturer whom I might be able to source from in Dubai? Ford don't make the seals them selves so there must be an alternate source for these things surely?
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I just bought a 2000 F250 SD 6.8 v10 and its mixing coolant in the block and leaking oil. I'm debating on just dropping a newer v10 in it but im just not 100% sure that this engine is shot. It runs great when there's oil in it and I can't even tell there's any problems going on for well over a couple hours after i fill it up with oil.
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My truck is a 2005 6.0 with no after mods and has 73000 miles on it. It began to blow white smoke out exhaust. I changed out the egr valve and cooler. After putting back together it then blew white smoke ran it to clear out. This worked however once it warmed up it began to blow thick white smoke at 20 mph and clears up by the time it reached 30mph and white smoke shoots out at rapid acceleration. As well there is coolant leaking out under the truck from somewhere in the motor about in the center. I am looking to work on this myself as I have heard of owners taking it to shops and paying a lot of money for the prob to not get fixed.
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I have a 2005 F250 it has the stock head unit in it and i want to upgrade to an oem unit that has nav. Will the nav units from 2006 and newer fit and plug and play in my 05 ?
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Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release.
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how difficult is a in frame head gasket repair?
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I have been having non-stop issues with my tranny. After getting it rebuilt (by some BS shop my warranty company told me to go to) it is starting to leak when parked for more than a day. It generally pisses out about 1/2 to 1 qt overnight when this happens. I crawled under the truck and it looked like the fluid was coming from the pan gasket. Rather than taking it back to the mechanic that decided to take 3 months to fix it last time, I swapped out the gasket myself. This did not solve the problem. Where and why else could it be leaking from? It is not over filled, I have checked multiple times. I would prefer not to have to hand my truck back over to the incompetent 'mechanic' that 'fixed' it last time.
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