Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Coolant Leak Coming From The Cylinder Head
Jul 15, 2016
I have a 2006 f250 6.0l diesel. I just replaced the egr valve plus egr cooler and I was going to flush the coolant. I was filling the truck with distilled water to do the flush when I noticed a leak under the truck. When looked to see where it was coming from it looks like it's coming from where the cylinder head meets the block on both sides in the back by the transmission. Is this a sign that the head gaskets are shot or did I forgot to tighten a hose or something stupid like that?
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I trying to see if this is something that is a easy fix or mayor work. Leak coming from that metal housing behind alternator. Does this housing came off? or do I need to take out the intake out? .
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I have a '97 f350/460 efi with 210,000 miles on everything. the only oil it leaks is driver side cylinder head (very little). And that is my fault, a little impatient when changing head gaskets. Its gonna outlast me I am pretty sure. Anyway, fords rock...
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I have a 02 F250 with 137 thousand miles. When it had 130 thousand on it I had the plugs changed unknowing that this year 5.4 was known for blowing the plugs.
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I've been trying to figure out what is going on with my '99 F-250 V10, you can check out this thread for the back story
[URL]....
I did a compression check and the results seem inconclusive to me- see image.
Before I did the compression check I started to take the intake manifold off to change the gasket set and it's about 50% done. I'm at a crossroad now. Do you think I should finish switching out the intake gaskets or do you think it's more than likely a head gasket? I would hate to put it back together, it still smoke and have to take the intake and everything else back off to do the head gaskets.
Someone had mentioned a possible small crack in the cylinder wall that is closing up when the engine gets heat in it and obviously doing the intake and cylinder head gaskets would fix it if that's the problem.
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2001 Ford F250 5.4 gasoline. At the most recent oil change my mechanic said there was an oil leak and he had dyed the new oil and cleaned everything up and to come back in 100 miles.I just did so and he said that it was a leaking head gasket. He said to do the head gasket replacement right or to put in a rebuilt engine would be close to same and he would recommend the replacement. He said it was not a heavy leak and probably ok to drive another 10,000 or so miles first. Just returned from a trip where we drove 15 hours straight (30 degree temps) and the truck ran fine and no overheating.There does not appear to be oil in coolant or vice versa. I took the cap off overflow coolant and cranked and revved and no disturbance whatsoever. I read somewhere where a mechanic was saying it was impossible for this Ford engine to leak oil from a head gasket failure .
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After replacing most of the underside of my Super Duty, Complete front end, backing plates, brakes, rotors and shocks, I have a misfire code on cylinder #4. I replaced the plugs, cleaned the MAS and filter and rotated the coil to cylinder #1. Still have a misfire on #4 and noticed the coolant slightly low and some condensation on the oil cap. Could this be the intake gasket? My mechanic is away for 2 weeks and I think the price at the dealer will kill me. I have 63K on the truck, don't tow and plow mostly family members. It's getting a little rusty but is still in good shape.
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To all those folks that said I had a head gasket putting pressure into my cooling system and causing it to overheat, you were right. It is a 2003 F250 with 80000 5.4 l. I have had to replace mexhaust manifold bolts on left side (horrible job, couldn't get one out). Back fenders are rusted out, under the extended cab rusted, doors are rusting at the bottom. My friend/mechanic said it was time to get rid of it. I don't really have thousands of $$ for a different one, but also, replacing the head gaskets are in the thousands for a repair bill. I have looked at used 2008 250 4 door and they are 20000+++ sheesh, but a new one is out of the question. Do I get the gasket situation repaired?
It does not act up all the time, some times it never overheats, sometimes it will. Somewhat infrequent ( I had one mechanic look at it and he tried 3 different times, and it did not overheat. Temp gage will peg, coolant resevior will overflow, but is not hot (100 degrees). I dont have the really have the money to put into a newer model, but I am worried about being nickeled and dimed to death after dumping a couple of thousand into a head gasket, plus I suppose I need to have the other side manifold gasket/bolts checked too. It seems like low miles to be having issues, yes I realize all will rust, but this year, as evidnet in our area, was really suspect-able to rust.
Not worried about the body, is it worth it to spend 2500 for head gasket repair, or trade up a couple of years, less miles, etc. My worry is, I already had to fix 1 exhaust manifold gasket, know head gasket to fix a cooling issue, do I cut my losses and move to another truck, or spend the money for repairs. I don't really have money for either but want to make a good decision. Truck has not been abused and has been serviced as scheduled. Had to put on new brakes and rotors, as would expect, and ball joints too. Oil looks fine, no contamination, and coolant is clear. Will the head gasket get worse? As I said before, it is intermittent, but I don't trust it for long trips.
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(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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To make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
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I bought this truck used several months back and have ran it extremely hard. It's supposedly studded and EGR deleted. The whole engine was replaced at 183,xxx by some diesel place. Anyways, while I was driving I smelled coolant and thought that was funny so I ignored it. Anyways, My livewire tuner started seeing a coolant and engine oil increase. I figured I'd go ahead and drive it home. It got to 153 F* and the coolant was around 129 F* The oil cooler has been clogging up and I just got my brand new Ford one in.
So that will be replaced sooner rather than later. When I got home, I checked the coolant level and there was nothing in it!! It was pretty much empty. So I put the water hose on it and turned the water on and after about 2 mins steam started coming out near the turbo. I mean a crapload of steam. I turned the water on again and saw that it was coming out right next to the EGR delete. It's hard to tell exactly but looks like the intake manifold??? What could it be? It's not the hose for the EGR. The degas bottle has never overflowed, there's no white smoke except on cold starts in really cold temps.
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I have replaced the cruise control cut off switch and post-recall pig tail twice in two years for fluid leaks. Whats the deal do they all leak?
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Alright, after finally fixing my 4X4 issues, now I have a coolant leak. It's on the passenger side, just above the exhaust downpipe. I can't find any leaks in the hoses, and as far as I can see it looks like it's coming out of the back of the head and running down the back of the block. The odd thing is there's no oil in it, and no coolant in my oil (which obviously is a good thing), but I don't want it to get to that point of it is getting worse. Heat works fine, and it isn't overheating, only losing maybe a gallon a month. At some point the ford gold stuff was flushed and it has the compatible green, that is the only thing I can tell is not stock. I don't want to tear it down if I don't absolutely have to.
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About a week ago I began smelling coolant after driving my 2012 F350 6.7. Yesterday I noticed a small amount of coolant on the ground and decided to take it to the dealer. As soon as I told the Service Manager what was going on he said......"You need to leave it......there is no doubt in my mind it needs a radiator". They pressure tested and and sure enough it does. He said they are replacing about 2-3 a month but there is no recall.
Here is where it gets fun. Apparently radiators fall off at 36,000 miles and are not included in the 100,000 Power Train Warranty. It gets better. The Radiator is on national back order for 5-6 weeks.
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03 f350 5.4. Very minor coolant leak at the moment. Valley behind water pump looks a little damp and leak has shown a little on the passenger side block above the starter. Shows on the tranny bell housing and hits the y pipe every once and a while. I am thinking its the hose that runs under the intake manifold but wanted to check in here for some wisdom. Can it be bypassed or rerun without pulling everything.
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I have a 2006 Ford F-250 coolant leak only when the truck is cold. Ive noticed it in the morning when I leaving for work. It looked liked it was coming from the passenger side yesterday and today it's on the drivers side when I'm sure is because my driveway has a small tilt to it I've looked everywhere I could under the hood and don't see it leaking.
I don't have any temp problems or white smoke and my coolant level has changed that much and for a few days the drip stopped now it's back. I tried to search for the answer but can't find it. I'm just wanted to make sure it's not the head gasket but I'm sure I would have a sign it it was. I will include where I saw it dripping from. It's parked on flat ground here ... That's where I saw a drip coming from driver side ....
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The wife and I were driving back to Sacramento yesterday. It was pretty hot around 95 when we left Stonyford, CA after a day of trail riding with our dirt bikes. From the staging area to the freeway, the distance was about 40 miles of slow twisty roads. We average around 30-45 miles per hour with full AC running. Once we got to the freeway and drove about 20 miles, we pulled to a McDonalds at which point I noticed a weird smell and smoke coming from under the hood. We opened the hood and notices smoke coming from the middle of the engine. I also noticed coolant leaking from under the engine. I waited an hour and then pour about 3 gallons of concentrate coolant back into the system. It seems to stopped leaking. We drove another 45 miles to home. Coolant hasn't leaked. I can't take this truck out until I figure this out and fix it.
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I have a leak from the oil pan gasket and oil coolant lines. From the research I have done, it looks like I have to lift the motor to change the oil pan gasket. Any way to get this done without lifting the motor??? 2000 f250 5.4 2wd....
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I have a 2000 Ford F-350 V10 Triton that is currently not running. It all started when I was going to work at 7:00am it just shut off in the middle of the road. I had someone to take out of the road and found out one of the fuses had blown. It was replaced and not even a mile down the road it died again, luckily next to Orielly's. They came out and did a test and found out it was coil 10. I purchased and installed a new one and went down the road only to have it die again. I replaced the fuse again, and went back to Oriellys and just as I was backing into the parking spot it died, this time smoke coming from under the hood. The brand new coil had caught on fire but I extinguished the flame and got the coil unplugged before any damage happened. Replaced the same coil and it ran fine until I got home, let it idle and it was fine. Then, two days later I started it and it died, again smoke coming from under the hood but no flames or fire. Now cylinder 10 does not fire any more. What the cause is?
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I'm trying to troubleshoot a leak on my 08' F250 with a 6.4 powerstroke. It's been dripping coolant when cold pretty aggressively. Once the truck heats up, the coolant leak seems to mostly go away.
Here's a picture of the drip, it's marked by a dart, so you can see the location from the top (second pic). The radiator house connection around the engine seems dry.
Pic from Top ....
What's hidden here that could be causing the leak?
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