Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Codes P0172 And P0174 / Truck Bucks And Coughs / Zero Power When Driving
Oct 11, 2015
I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
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My 2005 f250 5.4 with codes p0171 and p0174. I have replaced fuel filter, MAF, Checked for vac leaks by smoke and water test.
I don't have a way to check fuel pressure on this thing since it must have been to much trouble to put that test port on the fuel rail!!!
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I purchased a '15 KR cc sb some time back love the truck! It came with a leveling kit and tires were changed to Michelin 35's on stock rims.
The issue is that on certain sections of concrete interstate the truck "bucks" back and forth...a lot.
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Have a an 11 f350 6.2 gas throwing p0171 and 0174. Driving the truck it has spark knock pretty bad. Ive parked it at this point. Its a tow truck so I need it fixed and back on the road. I've checked the hoses going to the pcvs they appear to be ok.... Also upon starting the truck it just sounds weak.....
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My 1999 F350 SD V10 that would crank but not start. I ended up checking numerous things because before it decided to truly stop running, it would run rough for a time and then be fine. The check Engine Light came on and I got the codes P0171 & P0174. Well, I bought MAF Cleaner and took the air cleaner housing off, disassembled it and thoroughly cleaned the sensor and replaced the air cleaner. I continued to get those same error codes, but before I could go any further, the truck totally died. It sat for nearly 2 months with the bed in the air as I had decided to lift the bed to check the fuel pump vs. drop the tank.
Fast forward a bit and I have since replaced the fuel pump and put $40 of Premium Gas along with Royal Purple Fuel Treatment in the tank because I figured things got stirred up and could use a bit of cleaning. I do not drive much, and during the first few trips, it ran perfectly. Then today, it started again with the rough running and trying to die if I let it idle. If I pushed on the gas, it would completely smooth out. If this were a carbureted engine, I would think the low idle was set too low, but since it is not, I am guessing it is one or more of the sensor/s that is/are causing the issue.
I am disabled and can’t play parts swap until I hit on the right part, so I was hoping that I might get some guidance here to narrow things down to the most probably causes so that I won’t go broke changing things until I hit the “right one”. The truck has 153,000 miles on it and I had bought it from a retired couple who used it to pull their 5th wheel travel trailer, so it had mostly highway miles on it. It was immaculate when I bought it and ran perfectly, needing only normal maintenance (oil changes, etc.) over the past 12 years that I have owned it. In those 12 years, I have put about 60,000 miles on it.
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I've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.
My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.
My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.
I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.
Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.
I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?
Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?
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2003 f150 5.4, 4x4 ... Truck is shaking pretty bad, idle bounces between 500 and 750, and its throwing p0172 (rich on bank 1), P0174 (lean on bank 2), and it looks like a misfire on cylinder 8 judging by that power graphy thingy. I'm going to check for a vacuum leak tomorrow on the PCV.
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2003 E-550 7.3L with IDM codes clear all code, do in injector buzz test P1276 and P1275. Start truck and SES light comes on. shut off truck code IDM code go to KOEF and have P1272, P1273, P1275, P1276. just replaced valve cover harness ohm wires to IDM put new IDM in. Truck shuts off while going down highway, turn key off then back on an usually starts on it own ....
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Had some issues with truck turning off when i hit bumps threw p163a and 1639 turned out to be bad alternator. Changed issue went away but..
Battery abs and check engine light are still on... Should they clear on their own?
Ive cleared the codes through my tuner and they come right back up after a few seconds. One battery is new the other old but tests ok.
Heard there's a 30 drive cycle some sau 40 but i believe I've started and driving it that already... 2008 6.4 ....
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What may be the issue with my truck. Drove earlier in the day and hauled trailer. Ran fine. Got it home and once I unloaded trailer and went to start up truck again it died a minute into backing up. I tried to restart and turns over but dies in 3-5 seconds. Tried again a few hours later and next morning and same thing.
Pulled code and came up P0172- Bank 1 running rich. I had replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor a few months ago. Since it was still under warranty I went and got a new one in case that was the issue, but didn't fix. When I try to start it smells like gas. Sounds like fuel pump is coming on fine. Checked air filter.
Of course is still hooked up to the trailer and in a tight spot in the yard at the moment so anything basic/inexpensive I can try myself first would be great.
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When driving my truck it coughs randomly not towing or anything going about 70 mph drops rps slightly and goes right back. It has 212000 miles new turbo and filters...
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I have 2 F-350 4x4's and they both wander back and forth when driving. They feel like they don't have enough caster. One is a 2000 V-10 extended cab with 8 foot bed. The other is a 2015 6.7 diesel crew cab with 8 foot bed.
I have driven the 2000 for so many years that I have grown use to the very slight sawing of the wheel to keep the rig straight. When my wife got her 2015 it does the same thing. The 2000 is leaf spring and the 2015 is coil spring. This bothered me when I first got the 2000 (used) but I just figured it was part of
the charm of a big truck.
I know I could put a caster shim in the 2000 but there must be a better way to solve the problem. Both are stock, no lift and no heavy winch or stuff.
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2001 V10- F250.. Runs rough- had the computer put on it and was coming up with P0174 codes (I think that is right)- In any case I replaced the Mass air flow sensor- checked for any vacuum leaks visually- I did not see anything obvious.... still runs like crap.... smells like gas when idling.... anything else I can check??? The check engine light went off finally (probably due to the MAF)- but it's driving me nuts- Any hoses I have not located I need to check?
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My Solara is running horribly. Its acting like the fuel pump or regulator is acting up as it loses power while driving and pumping the pedal usually does nothing. Its so bad that I cant drive it since top speed is about 10mph. If I just slightly touch the gas while driving I can get up to speed a little. It stalls when idling often too.
One thing I notice is if I stop driving for a while (with engine running) sometimes I can then drive away and the engine seems almost normal for 1-2 mins with lots of power. When the engine is cold it usually drives for 2 mins before these problems start.
This is a 2005 Solara. 4cyl 2AZFE gas engine - automatic - all stock - roughly 100,000 miles on the clock.
Its giving 2 codes: P0172 and P2196
I have looked up these codes and from reading I thought to try replacing the MAF sensor - no difference.
It feels like I'm driving a car with a bad carburetor again - really bogs out and laggy and sometimes even sounds like its backfiring slightly.
A bit of history:
- a few months ago I got the P0031 code so I replaced the upstream o2 sensor and all was good for a month or so.
- then about a month ago I got the P0136 code so I replaced the downstream o2 but it was starting to run badly before I could install and when I replaced it there was no change.
- last week I was surprised to see codes P0113, 172, 300, 301, 302, 303, and 136 but found that the battery terminal voltage was 10.5v so I replaced battery and those codes do not come back now.
- I'm thinking that due to the bad battery maybe the o2 sensors were not a problem? The upstream replacement made no difference (though it was running fine-just the CEL came on), and the downstream replacement made no difference (runs badly before and after).
My guess is fuel pressure, regulator, or injectors but its just getting too expensive to try.
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I have a 2008 F250 crew cab lariat 4x4 with 20 inch factory wheels that the steering wheel shakes during normal driving left to right. I bought this truck with 1500 miles on it. This shaking started at 50k miles and I was thinking it was a balance issue so I got new tires a month later since mine were about worn out anyways. They were factory replacement nitto terragrapplers. Shake was still there, swapped out for another set of nittos and shake still there, swapped to BFG AT KO's and shake better, but still there. I have gone through 10 or so balances, 5 roadforce balances, 2 alignments at 4 different shops including the ford dealer through the 3 sets. My wheels are scratched to hell and back from the careless people at the tire stores from so many balances.
My truck sat at the Ford dealer for a week just the other day and they changed the steering stabilizer. I thought it was gone, but a a few days later shaking started again. It almost feels as if every little bump, rut, crack in the road the steering wheel feels and shimmies (doesn't matter the speed, gets worse and more noticeable at higher speeds). The Ford Dealer says can't duplicate, but then when I go down there and test drive with them it's "oh yeah I see that, it shouldn't be doing that". The Ford Dealer says they can't find anything loose in the front end when I tell them to check tie rods, bearings, etc.
My truck has 62k miles on it now and it's driving me to the point of thinking about trading it on a Chevy. I love my truck, but it kills me everytime I make a payment and it rides like crap. I am still under extended warranty so I need to get this fixed before it goes out. I've also noticed that if I turn my steering wheel back and forth real quick while driving like warming up for a Nascar race I can feel a bumble in the steering wheel. This is NOT the death wobble as I use to get that around the 20k mile range and it disappeared and has never been back.
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I got a 2000 f250, 5.4l, I got a check engine light bout 2 weeks ago and didn't experience any driving issues. The code was p0171, just recently I've been experience troubles idling, if I let my truck idle for about 3 minutes it will want to shut off, also on acceleration the hole truck bumps, feels like I'm in an earthquake. Where I should start with this problem?
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Driving up a slight hill unloaded yesterday at about 40mph constant pedal pressure the truck shifts into neutral...at least that's what it feels like. Revs go up and no power. When I take my foot off the pedal the transmission catches and drives fine. There is no bucking or hard shifting, just that slipping. What it could be? This problem arose suddenly....never had any problems prior. It is not an issue that has gotten worse over time...
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All week the truck was acting like the clutch was slight depressed when first taking off and then today i was driving and the underside of truck started smoking like crazy and slowly lost all the gears could put it in any gear and nothing just was acting like it was being revved. does this mean clutch is bad?
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I bought my 2015 in August of last year with 8K miles and here I sit at the dealership with 15K for the second time in 4 days.
Truck loses gauges while driving and throws all the warnings (tire pressure, temp, hill descent, and on and on). If I turn it off it won't start. I disconnected the battery first time it happened, about a month ago, and it restarted. Thursday it wouldn't start until the tow truck driver got it off the flatbed at the service center (go figure). This time I got it on video and parked it at the service center myself. I showed the foreman the video.
The service advisor told me it needed a software update last Friday when I picked it up, which is another way of saying they had no idea and didn't put much thought into it since it was running when they had it. The notes said they did a diagnostic, found no codes, and "drove it on a bumpy road" with no issues. Really?
This is extremely frustrating! I hope they actually do something this time. The damn thing started again before I left it with them!
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99 F-250 SD 6.8 had an issue with it while moving from Del to Phx, Az. Found collapsed air cleaner element. It looked like someone stepped on it. I replaced it as well as the MAF. This fixed the issue. This was 350 miles into the trip. The truck seemed to be down on power as it didn't want to pull my trailer up any type of grade except with OD off. Around 2K miles into the trip in developed a random misfire with no codes. I am at my final destination and the misfire is worse. I am not showing any codes at all or pending either. It is a bit toasty outside to be out there diagnosing issues, and I won't start changing parts randomly either. I have a NGS scan tool with the proper cards.
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Wife took truck out and turned around after going less then a mile, saying it was running very bad. We got this truck about two months ago at a state vehicle auction. It was a state used truck, 145,000 miles, 05 Ford F350, ext cab and 8' bed. Anyway at first I thought it was valve tap until research said an exhaust manifold. With a fog machine in rear exhaust pipe we confirmed it was leaking and replaced the exhaust manifold. Figured it was probably a good time to replace spark plugs too. Took truck for a ride and she still buck and farted.
Got a code machine and got P0171 and P0174. Couldn't find a vacuum leak, but your could hear the air being sucked in. went to local parts store, guys couldn't find leak, but they said truck sounded like a steam machine. today I made a homemade smoke machine and smoke came from air intake, figured the gaskets were bad. The pictures show what I saw when I took the gaskets off. The port that has melted is the same port were the exhaust manifold was leaking from. Am in deep "doo-doo". What caused this?
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