Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Code P2195 (Bank 1 Sensor 1 O2 Sensor Stuck Lean)
Sep 23, 2010
So I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
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I keep getting a lean bank code. I have cleaned tb and replaced one of the rubber lines. It only comes on when I take a good ride with the truck. Not sure what else it could be. I'm thinking O2 sensor maybe.
2008 F-350 5.4 3V. 65k miles
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My Bank 2 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor is faulty and I need to replace it. The guys at the parts store were pretty certain it is downstream driver's side, but I just want to make sure before I PB Blasted and removed it. 2008 F250 SD v10 ....
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I have a P0171 code (lean bank 1 sensor 1) on my 2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder. I don't have any other codes except for an unrelated P1780 neutral safety switch code. It has had both codes for over a year.
I have replaced the fuel filter, the upstream o2 sensor, and the PCV valve. I also cleaned the MAF sensor. The mechanic performed a smoke test and found no vacuum leaks. Did a fuel pressure test and it's normal. Mechanic thought it would be fuel pressure because the car starts a bit slow when cold, but nope. The car runs great and still gets great gas mileage. I've never experienced a misfire in my 12 years of owning the car. I am asking because I am at a loss as to what it could be.
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I got an 04 Nissan Sentra and I got a (P1273 Nissan - Air Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring Bank 1) code that popped up on it. Looking to see what the probable cause for this code to pop up? Is this a rare code that popped up on this car? There's no noticeable symptoms going on with the car.
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What would be causing my left and right bank lean codes? Truck still seems to run fine. I have also been getting number 6 misfire. all within the past week. I know Its due for a tune up but would a simple tune up fix these codes. Also besides plugs and primary fluids what else should I be changing. I don't want to be getting to involved just the main stuff.
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I have been trying to find a new sensor after my truck popped a P2285 code. I can't find ICP sensor at any auto parts store. I found this but it was labeled as a fuel pressure sensor on RockAuto: More Information for Standard Motor Products ICP103... Is this the same thing?
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2005 Ford Taurus, 6cyl, 3.0L, OHV, 90K miles. CEL came on and code read was P2272 with info "O2 Bank2 sensor2 signal stuck lean". Should I assume that I need to replace one of the O2 sensors and if so, which one ?? Not sure, but I think this car has four O2 sensors ??
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The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
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Code was showing for the knock and climbed under the truck and checked to see if it was plugged in grabbed the wire and to my surprise the wire kept coming and so did a piece of the knock sensor, is this going to affect my truck badly?? worst case?? 97 f250 4.6 standard
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We just bought and '05 F350 Turbo Diesel, about two days after getting it the check engine light came on. We had the dealer check it since the mechanic wasn't in and it came up as "Fuel Level Sensor" . My husband can't remember the exact code. We have been told it's no big deal but we want it fixed and the engine light to go off. The dealer is giving us the runaround, or at least I think so.
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I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
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I have been getting a P0171 and a P0174 code lean bank 1 and 2 sensor 2. I have replaced all 4 censers the 171 is gone but I keep getting the P0174 and it only comes on when I am on the highway after driving around 10 miles or so i got a freeze frame of the data when it happen.
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2011 6.7... My truck is throwing code P2033 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor. What is the part number for that sensor?
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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1999 Ranger 4x4 4.0 - P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
I have replaced the 02 Sensor, Passenger Side (Pre-Cat), with a Motorcraft DY831...
I reset the Check Engine fault codes, and took it out for a 50 mile journey... Check Engine light is back on, with the same exact code... What next?
I understand that it may be a fuse, and/or it may be a short in the wiring... Exactly how to test the wiring from the connector at the 02 Sensor all the way back to wherever I need to test?
I really need detailed directions, like wire colors, voltage required, or ohms, or whatever is included in this process...
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I recently picked up a 2005 f250 SD 5.4 4x4... I was having issues with sporadic shifting and wandering shifts while cruising around 100kph, scanned it and came up with p0721 OSS sensor circuit performance fault.
I checked the harness and all looks fine, now I attempted to remove the OSS at the rear of the tranny, got the 8mm bolt out however could not, for the life of me get the sensor out. I tried not to use pliers to twist the sensor or anything for fear of breaking the sensor off and having bits go into the transmission.
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(The truck is a 05 f250 with a 5.4l). The problem first started out with the engine temperature gauge spiking and then resetting itself when the truck is turned off and then turned back on. If I drove the truck for any distance it would go into limp mode and the CEL would come on. The code was p1299, which is the cylinder head temperature sensor, and I replaced the sensor but no luck. Then the shop and I went through all accessories hooked up and couldn't find a short until I remembered that my prodigy break controller would occasionally read "ol" or "sh" which both readings are from shorts. I tow a enclosed trailer about 85% of the time and the past week I have been towing it with a different 250 and the same break controller without a problem so I have eliminated the trailer. But the shop just said the problem was the controller and unhooked it.
Now the next day it threw the same code with the controller unhooked and the trailer hooked up. after thinking it seemed that it was happening when i accelerated so I took apart the 7 pin and sure enough there was a little water in it, but after driving it around for a little and no code being thrown I hooked my break controller up and it still was showing ol or sh so i believe there is still a short. Also I noticed that my voltage is reading right at 13v instead of the 13.8-14v it was reading before this issue arose. I think I have narrowed it down to the 7 pin harness and/or electrical in the break components, but do not know what would loop back to the temperature sensor.
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I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
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I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
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