Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Code P1747 - Shudders And Dies When Drop It In Gear?
Mar 26, 2016
It's a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test well. Tested plug c1048 wires with the digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the EPC solenoid bad or is it pcm? I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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Its a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test good. Tested plug c1048 wires with digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the epc solenoid bad or is it pcm. I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
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F250 7.3L diesel started to flash OD light, goes into limp mode, code p1747. No other codes. Have had issues for a couple of years where the truck would not shift into gear for awhile; sometimes a couple of minutes till it would engage. Have done lots of diagnostics. Visual check harness. Have 12v on pins 1&12 on harness at transmission plug. Plug had some ATF visible, but cleaned it up and continuity good. (with 4" exhaust hard to get to connector).
Checked all solenoid wires with a DVM back to plug at PCM for continuity and shorts, all good. Pulled transmission pack and checked resistance on all solenoids except temp varistor all within specs. Removed Banks Trans Command and rewired tranny plug and pulled Ottomind chip from PCM. Still goes into limp mode and throws code. Did not see any bad solder joints or burns inside PCM by the way.
Seems like PCM right? But here is a complication to my issues. For over a year I have been having electrical issues like the radio not working and windows not working intermittently after starting up. After running for awhile or on restart would work fine. Sounds like the Instrument Cluster issues or relays.(?)
Will be pulling IC and checking for any bad solder joints. However, did not throw p1747 till just recently and now my radio has really gone wonky. It comes on when key is on automatically and then proceeds to cycle through settings; AM-FM-CD.
So questions are, "Is it possible that a bad Instrument Cluster can cause a p1747 code?" "Bad Ground to Tranny" "Can a bad PCM cause a electrical issue in IC??" "Are these 2 separate issues?"
2002 f250 7.3L, 4R100 automatic trans, ~180,000miles
Banks Stinger package, 4" exhaust, TransCommand, (now removed).
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When pulling my trailer away from a stop transmission shudders in first gear, feels like t c. Once it changes to 2nd, it clears up. Getting ready to take in for service. Any thoughts? Still under bumper to bumper warrenty. 2008 6.4 auto f 350. 26k miles
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I have an 03 f250 5.4l that I've been having some problems with. When the engine is cold it will drive fine and everything. When it warms up, if I go to put it in gear it just dies right away. Why?
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My 2000 ford f350 will start and then dies on me when i try to put in gear. I changed air n fuel filter. Adding oil i noticed the stick was still reading dry. Noticed a big oil spot under the hood. What should i try to do? Do not want to put in shop cause every time she goes in I come out broke.
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I recently had a thread going regarding my 1999 F350 2wd auto transmission slipping in/out gear. Tried to follow up on old thread but got confused so I'm trying to start a new one. Basic problem is that truck was slipping in/out of gear. Cleaned the solenoid pack electrical plug (as instructed on previous thread) and the truck didn't act up for 2 weeks. Today it started slipping in/out again and this time it registered a code of P0705.
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I know this is a common code and a common problem. I have had a buzz test and glow plug test done, no codes. Scanner code came up with P0275. I have read about injector change out, to O ring failure, to new EGR style. I have a 05, 6.0 SD SRW auto.
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My 04 F350 has a bad shudder when slowing down between 30 and 10 MPH. Not so noticeable at other speeds and almost nothing while speeding up. How to fix?
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I have an '04 EX with 6.0. When braking at highway speeds the rear end shudders until I get the truck slowed down some. Around town speeds of 45 or less the problem is almost non-existent. It almost seems to be hydraulic instead of pads/rotor issue. Wouldn't a warped rotor show up at slower speeds as well? I have some good mechanics around, but have never found a great brake shop that I can trust. Go in needing pads and they try and upsell saying this or that is going out.
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hey there, new to your forum , been reading alot here , i have a 1999 f 250 super duty, frame was rotted, so i found a 2003 frame with motor , trans , transfer case & both axles , put my cab on it with the 1999 pcm , having trouble with low power on take off , shudders , poor shift points , at highway speeds , turn signal on , the speedometer will pulse same as blinkers, new head gaskets , timing chains , replaced trans with the old 1999.
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250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
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I have been having trouble with my 2008 Ford F250 4x4, 6.4 liter diesel transmission. SCT tuner, 10" lift, egg delete and dp delete has been done. I have been losing power mainly in reverse but have noticed that the transmission hasn't always been going into the last gear on the interstate. Code PO741 would come up. The other day the shifter was stuck. So I played with it and found that the cable on the transmission had fallen off. After replacing it. The transmission wouldn't go into reverse but has been doing semi good in forward. Well I have been limping it around until today when I was going down the road and it completely stopped pulling. Now no matter what gear I place it in, it will on go in reverse. What could be causing these issues or where to even begin to start looking?
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My 2010 F350 shudders when turning right. From what I read it could be the auto locking hubs not dis-engaging or sticking in the locked position. Tutorials show it's pretty easy to pull the auto locking Hub out taking out the three screws holding it in place. My questions is what type of grease do I need to apply to the auto locking hub once I have them out and determine that is what the issue is?
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I have a 2000 f250 5.6 v8 with around 104k miles. yesterday I noticed the oil gauge drop to zero and the light came on. then, it went back up to normal. after a few minutes it did it again. I parked in the driveway and checked the oil. it was gone! dipstick was dry. there are no leaks as far as I can tell and it hasn't been burning oil. it was running fine and I was surprised to even see the dash light come on. What could be the cause of this?
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How to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
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How to fix a broken drop tab on my 06 super duty driver door panel.
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I just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
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Push the o/d button to turn off, light on shifter comes on as off...and the rpms drop.
Push the button again (turning O/D on) and the rpms increase. It appears its working 180 degrees opposite of proper.
Example to clarify...going down hill at speed, push the O/D off button and as before working correctly the rpms would increase allowing the engine to aid in some braking.
That is now 180 degrees opposite. Push that button while descending and the rpms drop like it got thrown into neutral.
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I have an 03 f350 4x4 cc long bed and I seem to be having a problem with my fuel gauge. It doesn't show the true amount of what's in the tank and because of that I have run out of fuel a few times.
sometimes when I'm driving the light will come on and the gauge will drop all the way to empty then a little later it will go to almost full even with only putting 10 gals in the tank.
Any fix for this or do I need to replace the sending unit?
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