Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Code P0442 On 2003 V10 - Purge Valve Solenoid?
Jul 25, 2017
CEL turned on this morning heading to work. Truck drove completely normal with no signs of altered performance.
Stopped by Autozone after work and they checked it with a code reader.
Came back with P0442 - "Purge Valve Solenoid"
Part sold with or without bracket.
Is this a common part to fail? How can I be sure it has truly failed? Is it acceptable to reset CEL and see if it fails again? If so, how do I reset? Where is part located?
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I have 2 issues and wonder if they are related. I don't have a CEL but I'm getting a P0442 DTC with my code reader - EVAP system leak detected
Also, my ESOF doesn't work. The hubs will lock manually. Can this be related?
I've already cleared the code and it came back. My ESOF hasn't been working for a while but I just haven't had the time or motivation to look into it until now.
I tried the HVAC Test and there may be a slow leak in the system. I can get the vents to switch from defrost to face vents but it switches halfway back to defrost, both are on at the same time for 20 seconds, then it recovers and goes back to the face vents.
My 4wd relays seem to work as well.
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My 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
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I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
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I have a 4r100 in my 2000 f250 7.3. I am getting a P1746-EPC Solenoid, open circuit. Does this mean this particular solenoid in the solenoid body has failed and should i replace the solenoid body?
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I need the PCM pinout for a 2002 F150 4.6 For the Purge Control Valve Circuit. If possible the wire schematic would be nice also. Getting code PO443 (( hard code )) I have checked battery voltage at valve connector with key on (( 12.2 volts )) valve resistance is at be 35 ohms so I'm thinking I may have a bad wire or a bad PCM .
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I just had my 3rd Canister purge valve installed a month and a half ago, and it's already dead.
I noticed while I was driving that it was constantly pulsing after the engine warmed up, and continued to do so as long as I was driving.** This did not seem normal to me (I can hear it in the cab).
The solenoid is burning up and measures open circuit. No codes are thrown during the time it continues to pulse, but when it burned up again, the 3 codes (P0441 Incorrect Purge Flow, P0440 Solenoid Failure, P0443 Purge Valve Circuit Trouble) are immediately thrown? indicating the solenoid is fried.
The system runs a series of tests during normal operation, so if there was a problem with an actual leak or clog, it should show up as a test failure code, but does not. My inclination is that the problem is a sensor.
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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Ok I have a p1316 code so I was told to change valve cover gaskets so I did. Now starts for 4 sec and dies, what is going on....
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I have a 2003 F250 that has recently started blowing white smoke. I replaced the EGR Valve but no luck.
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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I had a bad starter solenoid on the fender in my truck I swapped it out and then my starter went so I swapped it now it is not disengaging the starter If I turn the key to the run position it starts cranking and fires right up before I an let the glow plugs cycle or anything and it won't disengage the starter I turn off the truck and the starter is spinning loud for a couple seconds till it stops no matter if it just start the truck or start it and run it for a couple minutes then shut it off. 99 7.3L ....
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I just bought myself a 2003 F250 XLT with the V10 in it. Low miles, not beat, 6 speed, very happy with it. I noticed today that there was an inconsistent tapping coming from the passenger side valve cover. I searched online and was pointed towards the PCV baffle. I pulled the breather hose off and stuck my finger in the hole, and the baffle is indeed detached. Now I know that I need to pull the valve cover now to at least remove the baffle; is there anyway to reattach the baffle, or do I need to buy a new valve cover?
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My 2001 F250 will not start (clicks). I verified its not the battery and even tried to jump start it. I have never replaced a starter- but before I do that I read where there is another solenoid under the hood somewhere. I always thought there was just the one on the starter itself.
Two questions:
1. where is that other solenoid located and should I replace that first?
2. How difficult is it to replace the starter? I am pretty handy.
The issue is that I cannot get it towed easily - I just need to get it started at least once since my plow is still installed and it's hooked up to a trailer..
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99 F250 Super Duty 5.4 has a p7147 error. Traced all wiring cant find any short. Bought reman solenoid pack # are f81p-7g391-cb with green cover my old one in trans is f81p-7g391-ba with blue cover. Are these interchangeable? Have tried to read up on pwm & nonpwm and getting confused.
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I have a 2010 f 250 super-duty and i cannot get vacuum past the solenoid mounted on top of the radiator. Ford has given me nothing but bad advice. I know i have a vacuum leak after the solenoid and need to replace the lines going to the two hubs but when i switch on the 4wd and hook up a vacuum gauge the vacuum is good up to the solenoid about 12 inches. i constantly have 12 volts going to the center lead but nothing else in the other two leads either in 4 high, 4 low, or 2wd. Am I missing something here? shouldn't there be a voltage change when i turn the switch to 4wd to actuate the vacuum solenoid to let the vacuum pass thru the solenoid? I have tried replacing the solenoid but that did not work. Also use rubber vacuum line and make at down to the hubs?
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I have a 2006 F250 Super Duty w/ turbo Diesel. Took to dealership for "hopping" feeling when turning sharp. Was told that 4 wheel drive solenoid was bad. Where this solenoid is located? I know I can fix but want to know where it is located.
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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My Ex is throwing a P1451 Canister Vent Purge valve issue. Is the canister for the Ex hidden on the frame above the gas tank? I looked around the frame in the back of the truck but am having no luck finding it so I'm guessing ill have to drop the tank to get to it. I've read that wire chafing for this valve could be the problem.
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my 03 f250 has a 5.4 and i cant seem to get rid of a misfire in cylinder 3. i had a p0353 code but that no longer shows up. i replaced all the coils with Accel coils, replaced the plugs with motorcraft platinum. i have checked the wire all the way back to the PCM and it checks out. i replaced the pcm with one that has been reprogrammed. i have swapped the injector and coil with another position and still get misfire at #3. Replaced the coil connector with a new one. I have good fuel pressure. I no longer get the code but the misfire is still there, unplug the coil and injector while running and no change. Unplug a different cylinder and you can tell the change. I checked compression and its good. I am lost here!!!!
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So I just bought a 2003 f250 v10 and I've plugged in my code reader and it couldn't get any info, so I took it to auto zone and they got an error code. I took a test lite to each little connection on the port with the ignition on and only got power to some of the metal connections on the port. So I'm wondering if all the little connections should have power? If so where should I start to look to find the problem?
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