Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Code P0001 - Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Open
May 28, 2010
My scanner reads P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Open. My truck shuts down without warning, runs great otherwise. I've changed 2 grey CPS units and now have the Black IH one installed. What the Fuel Volume Reg.is? Is it the IPR on the HPOP?F250SD 7.3 225,000 miles.
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My 1999 6.8 has developed a miss at low rpm lugging, so I checked on my code reader and it says the Fuel Volume Regulator Control has open circuit.
Well, I can't find anything on these forums or in my shop manual on a fuel volume regulator. Is my reader just using the wrong name?
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Where to decipher engine codes? I pulled a P0001 Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Open code .
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Got a P0001 error , Fuel volume regulator stuck opened....where is the fuel volume regulator is located on a first Gen. Prius?
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I have a 2006 F-350. I got a code p2623 ipr circuit open. I ordered a new one and currently waiting on it. I pulled the old one and the screen has been replaced already. How often do these valves go bad? Is there anything else I should check?
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I have a 4r100 in my 2000 f250 7.3. I am getting a P1746-EPC Solenoid, open circuit. Does this mean this particular solenoid in the solenoid body has failed and should i replace the solenoid body?
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I have a 2006 f-350 6.0 and i went to fill up my truck with diesel. After that the truck did not start. Currently has the code p2285 - injector control pressure sensor circuit low. I tried disconnecting sensor, still no start.
I have the torque pro app and another 6.0 that I use for comparison. Check power at ficm 48 volt, flp 11.5v, FVP 11.5v. Hpop while cranking shows 1400 psi. removed oil filter and see low pressure oil ok, fills up reservoir. ipr at crank about 65%. fuel filter full of fuel.
Replaced the dummy plug on passenger side because originally hpop was very low psi 12. after replacement it went up to 1400 on cranking. What should I be looking at next, should I be removing ipr? should i be looking at crank sensor or cam sensor? Just installed 2 new batteries also because my dad kept cranking the truck until it died.
Checked to make sure fuel cut off relay not triggered, Ok. The truck has been having long cranks before it died. Also right now the injector cycling is 10 seconds long while on my other 6.0 it is about 4.
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I have a 2002 F-350, 7.3 that is not charging. It has no power coming in on the big supply lead on the back of the alt. I traced the cable back, and it goes to intake heater solenoid. Cable is good, but intake and glow plug solenoids both have no power coming to them. I am guessing there is an open circuit between solenoids and starter. My question is, does the power come right from the starter, and is there circuit protection in there someplace?
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I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
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2011 6.7... My truck is throwing code P2033 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor. What is the part number for that sensor?
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Have an intermittent miss I can feel when driving 2006 F250 5.4 l 4x4 stick; Freeze frame from Cen-Tech 60794 (from Harbor Freight) scanner follows.
DTC CNT 0
DTC FRZF P 0352
FUEL SYS1 OL - FAULT?
FUEL SYS2 --
LOAD PCT 25.9
ELT (DEGREES F) 186
SHRTFT 1 0.0
[Code] ....
I can operate the scanner but what these ranges should be. What might be causing the miss? This scan shows 951 rpm, I was idling along in 1st in traffic, but I have also felt the miss at 75-80 mph (about 2300 rpm) on the Interstate and at other times, with light loads in the 1500- 2000 range in town.
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I recently picked up a 2005 f250 SD 5.4 4x4... I was having issues with sporadic shifting and wandering shifts while cruising around 100kph, scanned it and came up with p0721 OSS sensor circuit performance fault.
I checked the harness and all looks fine, now I attempted to remove the OSS at the rear of the tranny, got the 8mm bolt out however could not, for the life of me get the sensor out. I tried not to use pliers to twist the sensor or anything for fear of breaking the sensor off and having bits go into the transmission.
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Traveling cross country & got a check engine light telling me "injector control pressure low". Replaced ICP sensor and injector pressure control regulator. Removed old one and installed the new one.
While looking for one of the nuts that attach the glow plug relay in the valley I found a small round part looks like maybe a valve seat. About 1/2" round with maybe a 1/4" four flute spline in the center. Has an o-ring on one end.
Is this something that followed the old ICPR out and fell off the end when It cleared the mounting hole? It looks like the ICPR would bear against this little thing.
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Got this code a while back (several hundred miles) but have had no runability problems. I know it's the evap canister but my mechanic tells me it could be a myriad of things and he might spend hours on it and still not be able to resolve it. I plan on driving this truck til it's worn out. I've put 125,000 miles on it in 10 years almost all highway. I should be putting much fewer miles on now, only using it when I NEED a truck which should be less and less, mostly for hauling toys.
I hate to drive this thing another 10+ years with the engine fault light on but my mechanic says that if something serious goes wrong it will start to flash. A couple days ago the "check fuel cap" warning came on, but goes off if I hit,the odometer button. I got a new gas cap at Reilly's but it seems like a real POS compared to OEM, very light, and the check fuel cap warning still comes on.
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We just bought and '05 F350 Turbo Diesel, about two days after getting it the check engine light came on. We had the dealer check it since the mechanic wasn't in and it came up as "Fuel Level Sensor" . My husband can't remember the exact code. We have been told it's no big deal but we want it fixed and the engine light to go off. The dealer is giving us the runaround, or at least I think so.
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The truck belongs to a very good customer of mine and is a 05 f350sd 6.0 td with 5r110 torqshift tranny. The vehicle presents with these symptoms and codes....
-there is a delay from p to r and its intermittent, sometimes it will be in a weak reverse where it wont creep unless you give it some gas, sometimes it will hit reverse hard after this. sometimes it bangs reverse
-there is a delay into drive intermittently with the same symptoms as reverse where sometimes it bangs and sometimes it will take a little throttle to get it moving
-once the trans is hot (operating temperature) it has trouble downshifting. my solus tells me sometimes it tries to start off in 3 or 5 then sometimes it will bang back down into first and almost chirp tire with little throttle input
-tow haul light will flash after several miles and then it only has 1-2-3-4 no 5-6. then the starting off symptoms get worse
-throws codes for
p0766 shift sol d performance/stuck
p2701 friction element b apply time range/performance
p2703 friction element d apply time range/performance
p0700 trans control system fault.
So far the ideas i have are as follows
replace solenoid D
direct clutch replacement and seals for corresponding drum
torque converter replacement and pump replacement
harness rub through between pcm and transmission
The truck has had similar issues a year ago. Upon testing line pressure i found it was out of spec and replaced the epc. (electronic pressure control solenoid) and this cleared most of it up . I have had the pan down many times and the fluid has not been burnt and there is little debris in the pan. nothing i would consider beyond normal wear. Tomorrow I will be dropping the pan again to inspect the magnet and fluid as well as the condition of the harness. i will post my findings at that time. I am hoping between now and then some of you will be able to point out a few possibilities to get me on the right track.
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My 2009 F250 5.4 was throwing code P0442 - minor EVAP control system leak.
The first time it happened, the guy at the parts store checked it out, reset it, and said if it comes back, try replacing the gas cap.
The second time it happened, same thing.
I bought a Stant cap at my local parts shop, and had them reset it again. I don't like the Stant cap since it does not fit the retainer correctly, but it sealed fine.
However, the same code came back.
It took a smoke test to identify a leak from the vent tube on top of the fuel tank. The tube was replaced today.
If the code stays gone for a few hundred miles, I'm going to switch back to the original gas cap. I want to make sure the leak is gone before I change anything.
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2006 6.0 superduty showing low circuit codes on all 8 cylinders so i checked the FICM and it has 48v when key is on and while turning engine over. What to check next?
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My 2006 F-250 SD with 6.0 diesel has some sort of cut-out for the heater circuit, and possibly for the A/C as well. This truck was probably a fleet vehicle for the Houston Port Authority. Didn't really notice this peculiarity until it got really cold outside. If I start the truck up and let it idle for 10-15 minutes the water and transmission temperature get up to the normal operating ranges but the heater/defrost circuit does not heat up. Cannot defrost the windshield.
If I drive to the end of my driveway, about 600 feet, the heater/defroster starts putting out good heat. When driving, if I have to stop at a stoplight, or any other pause, with the truck still in gear, the heater output starts to cool down. I suspect that this feature was incorporated in the circuitry at the factory to prevent the driver from sitting still to keep warm. The truck MUST BE MOVING to allow heat or defrost to operate. The blower motor operates and it doesn't matter if the truck is in gear or not.
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I can not hear the radio in my 2011 F350 XLT. I don't know what radio options there were for the XLT but mine has a Sync USB port, Bluetooth, steering wheel controls, CD player but it does not have a big display or touchscreen or anything like that.
When I try to adjust the volume with either the steering wheel or the radio dial, the indicator shows the volume is at half but the volume will not go up or down. I can hear nothing. All other buttons appear to work.
Have Inaccidentally gotten into some more that doesn't allow it to play any sound or adjust volume or is something just flat out wrong?
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My 2004 F250 has been having issues with the radio. Its been randomly changing stations and volume. I think its due to moisture in the dash. Its stops when I run the heater thru the dash vents.
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