Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Clunking Noise In Driveline When Come To A Stop Or Shift Into Park
Jan 7, 2014
I took my truck in for a clunking noise in the driveline as I come to a stop and sometimes when shift into park. It is now the 7th and I'm told parts have been ordered and the truck will be worked on when parts come in. I asked to speak to general manager and still no call back. I called customer relations and nothing they can do.
Honestly I think the have me on the back burner since I'm warranty work opposed to marked up repairs. Am I being unreasonable on my expectations of repair time? I called around and a ring and pinion job is quoted at 3 days at the most. Other repairs have been approved as well and parts are in for those, but they have not actually repaired them either.
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When I'm in 4 high and I coast I can hear something from the front drive line. It's a soft whirring/grinding type noise.
If I'm accelerating there is no sound . Only when the driveline forces reverse and the engine starts to slow the truck do I hear something.
With my hubs locked but in 2wd I don't hear anything.
Is this something to be concerned about or is it regular noise?
We have had a brutal winter so I've been in 4x4 75% of the time.
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99 v10 auto 4x4. Won't go into park completely. Have to start in neutral. was fine yesterday, now it doesn't work. if it wasn't snowing like crazy id just crawl around and find out. do our trucks have a linkage? or shift cable? I imagine I am just out of adjustment somewhere. any advice what to look for or where to start when the snow finally stops??
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My Superduty recently started clunking when I accelerate from a dead stop. The harder I hit the gas,the harder it clunks. I unbolted the driveshaft from the rear end and the yoke slides easily. Tranny mount looks tight. Could it be the front driveshaft? Sometimes when I brake hard and the truck comes to a complete stop it will do it too.
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I have a 02 F350 V10 4x4. Tonight I went out to go to a friends house and the truck started fine but when I push in the brake it will not release the lock on the shifter. You can hear a click noise when you push in the brake pedal.
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I did a bad thing last night, I put a jumper in the 20 amp cigar/data link connector and all kinds of things went out, will not shift out of park, no directional, power windows, power mirrors, no brake lights ,no hazards, no wipers, no interior lights and I don't know what ever else is not working.
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2003 7.3 powerstroke won't shift out of park when running. When my plugs are warming I have to shift into neutral then start truck. Works just fine after that unless I go in to park again. Brake lights work just fine. So I am guessing brake light switch is fine. What's next to check?
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Iv got a 2003 6.0 stroke with 212k miles on it. Runs like a top. Done a slew of work from injectors to hpop, 2 alternators, intake, exhaust. NO tuner! Stock. Anyway recently I started the old girl up, warmed up a bit and shifted into reverse and truck did nothing. Went to drive and same thing. Held brake and revved it up and it dropped in gear. Shifts fine after that. No issues other than the occasional NO shift from park problem. Iv dropped pan and replaced all filters recently.
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I have a 08 6.4l F250SD. At 127k miles, it has been a great truck. All service has been performed by dealer. When I shift from Park into drive there is a 3-5 second delay, and when it drops into drive the truck rocks. Once driving there are no shift issues. Into reverse there are no issues.
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My 2011 f250 is stuck in park and the brake lights do not work. I have changed the brake switch but still wont shift out of park.
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2015 F250 and I'd like to have the wipers stop a little higher on the windshield causing the ice build up. Previous trucks I could pop the wipers off and rotate them and put back on. These are keyed so I can't. Any trick?
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I have a 15 F250 CC SB 6.2 4x4 that is suffering from a driveline vibration. Had the shaft checked for balance and it was off. It's a little better now but still there. Checked all the angles and they're correct. Also came up with a curious observation that all CC SB 4x4's have a slip yoke driveshaft at the transfer case while all the other trucks have the fixed yoke. This appears to be my source of the vibration.
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I have a 1999 f250 SuperDuty with a nasty vibration That begins at about 70mph. The truck is an extended cab 5.4l Manual trans 4X4 with a one piece driveshaft (No mid bearing). The Vibration appears to me to be a driveline vibration that is speed dependent. It is the same in gear, out of gear clutch in or out. I have replaced the wheel bearings/hub assemblies on all four corners, completely rebuilt and balanced the driveshaft the driveshaft, removed the front driveshaft, put brand new tires mounted and balanced on all four corners, new clutch, had the flywheel turned and balanced, and replaced the transfer case output bearings. Pinion bearing feels tight and does not leak.
Also the Input in the trans felt tight when i had the trans out. The truck had the vibration when i bought the truck and still vibrates after i have done all of this work. i did not change the motor mounts because they looked fine. when i bought the truck the tabs on the extension housing holding the trans-mount to the trans were broken so i make a huge "exhaust clamp" to straddle the trans and bolt to the trans mount.
After driving the truck up north last weekend the truck seems to shake going taking of at lower rpm as if the motor mounts and trans mounts are bad. I guess my questions is can a bad trans mount, motor mounts cause this Vibration at highway speed. if so is there a way to fasten the trans-mount to the extension housing without replacing the extension housing. If not what else can cause this issue?
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I bought my 2012 F250 CC SB 6.2 back in December and really haven't had the truck in 4x4. Today we got a bit of snow. The roads were slippery so I engaged the 4x4 ESOF while at a stop sign (I know, didn't have to be stopped but I was so I put it in 4x4) The driveline was noticeably louder.
I had a relatively constant hum that almost reminded me of a wheel bearing going bad. If you've ever experienced a wheel bearing going bad the sound gets louder as you go faster. I'm sure it's not a wheel bearing since it only makes the sound in 4x4.
It's a fairly annoying sound and is louder than my old 99 F350. Notice the driveline being significantly louder in 4x4? There are no driving issues just a louder sound than what I was used to. I have the full Ford Certified warranty and can bring it in but I thought I'd run it by the brain trust here to get thoughts before going to the dealer.
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02 CCSB, and I have a vibration in my driveline that's starting to drive me nuts on my commute every day. I can feel it faintly starting at about 45 mph, whether the torque converter is locked or unlocked. The vibration peaks at about 60 mph and goes away at about 65+. My u-joints are all moog and grease them every oil change (about 120k on them now). At this point I suspect the carrier bearing, yokes, or even u joints but there's not much play. However the rubber around the carrier bearing is in rough shape and dry rotting. I'm curious if there's a test I can do to find the culprit.
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So, in my 99 Bounder RV (F53 chassis), V10
I think it has a 4R100 transmission in it (I have not verified this).
I had the oil and filter changed about 10K ago.
Runs and shifts fine .... then I stop and idle with it in gear (say stopped in traffic for a few minutes).
Now the thing shifts super hard! I actually get rubber in all gears.
So I pull over, shut it off. Restart the unit and everything is fine again.
It does this very consistently!
I went to the local transmission shop. They said with 110K in an RV it could be anything and I should think about letting them rebuild it.
Now that is something I would do ... not diagnose a problem and just rebuild it. I thought a "professional" would actually look for the problem first.
I don't want to rebuild the transmission if there is small item that will fix this.
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I need to solve tranny problem, it started out a while back, would not shift back into drive after stopping at stop sign (after driving fine for about 20 miles) thought maybe dirty filter so did fluid and filter change seemed to work for a while then started again noticed it was mostly after using cruise control, but u joints were very bad, so replaced 2 of the 3 and worked fine for about a thousand highway miles, then got really bad. Now when I check the tranny fluid cold and /or hot it is way up on the dipstick. Took to ford dealer in ladoga, lied and said no speed sensor codes, but list on the paper he gave me had all kinds of abs and a p500 code.
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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I have a 2000 F250 SD with the V10 engine. The problem that I am having with it as of late is that whenever I perform a full turn I hear some clunking coming from the front end. The clunking is similar to that heard from cars that use CV joints FWD but of course it sound more "manly"
Anyways, my truck has the full axle on front so I suppose it could be either the u-joint at the hub or the hub itself. I would like some pointers so I can acquire the required parts.
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I have a clunking noise that I can feel directly under the floor board that definitely seems suspension related. It is getting progressively worse, it's not constant but it is magnified when hitting bumps, pulling out of driveways etc. I have jacked the truck up and tried to simulate the issue with no luck.
1999 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans 150,000 miles
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2012 truck, started making a noise today. I cannot tell what it is, but seems to be coming from the passenger front suspension, its a crunching/light clunking sound, happens when going over bumps, when the truck pitches one way or the other turning, and coming to a stop....
Truck has 6k miles, I did a quick visual inspection this afternoon, didn't notice much, but the sway bar endlink looked a bit odd though, not sure if normal, its gota little bend too it and seems to just contact the vac line mounted behind it, seemed unusual...
Maybe its its just one of the crappy rancho branded shocks is junk?
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