Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Chimes Start Going Off / Check Brakes Starts Flashing
Jul 9, 2015
2013 F250 4WD gas V8, auto, stripped basic truck, 72500 miles.
I'm driving back to the shop today, chimes start going off, Service Advancetrac comes up where the odometer is & starts flashing. More chimes, airbag, battery, seatbelt & a couple of other lights start flashing, & coming off & on at random. Check Brakes starts flashing where the odometer is. This gets worse & worse, more & more noise, but the truck runs fine, starts & stops fine.
Ford saw fit to not put a volt meter in, so I don't know what the battery was doing. This went on for at least 5 minutes. I finally was able to push the button to turn off the Traction Control in the split second when all the lights went out. With Traction shut off, all the noise & flashing went away.
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From reading some of the posts on here it seems this is an air bag warning. 5 chimes five times in a row. The fuze is fine and there are no warning lights on the dash.
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My 08, when I connect my 7-pin trailer up, bouncing down the road that message and tone CONSTANTLY going off....drives me nuts! I have went thru the wire harness 2x now, cleaned all the contacts, etc. Any other thing short of a 12 gauge? When it does pop on, the controller starts flashing...I've reached down a few times and manually hit the brakes and it still hits em so whatever it is, I feel its very minor or whatever....just don't know where to go now! All contacts have been cleaned good as well.
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2002 F-350SD V10 Automatic. Running down the road with no load or with load. First gauges bottom out, next overspeed light starts flashing, engine goes to 3000 RPM on it's own. Stays that way until I shut off then restart. Sometimes it does this several times in one mile.
Second trick, again driving along, all gauges stay up but engine just stops. Got to set dead for 5 minutes before it will start. The shop says on the first problem this happens: Voltage goes way low then goes way high then everything starts failing. We changed battery but no luck. Got to be down line from battery.
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I have randomly getting in my sd. It is an 08 f250 xl with a 5.4. randomly my truck chime at me, hence why I haven't been able to capture it on video. It will chime twice. The sound is a subtle bong, bong. It is never predictable and never affects anything, but is annoying and I am curious as to why it does it.
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Question: How easy is it to replace the key switch - do I need any special tools? Is there a way to upgrade to one which requires an encrypted RFID key? Or is there an easier fix to my problem below?
Background: On my '05 SD, I am getting a weird problem where the ignition switch chimes Key-In sometimes when there is no key. I can get this to go away by fidgeting with the key switch, but since I am going to be installing a remote start / security system, I need to fix this...
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2008 f250 abs light, check brakes fault, speedo don't work! I was hauling a car the other day and all of a sudden all these lights and faults came on then my speedo quit working and also the odo don't calculate mileage. I changed the speed sensor at the top of the rear end and still nothing. Cruise control also don't work..
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Truck was dead- 2001 F250 V10... Has a starter relay (solinoid) behind battery... put a new relay in there- no go- cleaner terminals... then I put key in start and shorted the 2 terminals in the relay and she cranked right up. That would mean the starter is still good correct?? something in the ignition system?
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I have a 2005 F250 , 4.2 tdi diesel. I just bought the truck recently and still getting to know it.
I noticed recently that when I turn on the key, the vacuum pump starts running and does not go off. It seems to run continuously and will only shut off if I block the white outlet pipe with my finger. Is this normal or is the pump stuffed.
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I just recently got handed a 2005 ford f250 6.0 PSD from my older brother, new to the whole diesel game, well all of a sudden as i was driving down the road about 65 mph, trucks RPMS shoot to about 4K and tow haul light starts blinking as i start pulling over (still in drive of course) i realize i can't move anymore the trucks rpm just rev. In all gears it does not move i moved 1-3 D and R and nothing truck just revs. i had my father get under the truck as i shift from gear to gear and the linkage is moving back and forth on the transmission as i put it in reverse the reverse lights still pop on, I'm new to the diesel game...
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A few days ago my check coolant additive message start popping up, 14k miles. After doing some reading it sounds like all I need to do is either have my coolant tested or get the test kit and do it myself. My confusion is which test kit to purchase. Since my truck is a 2015 PSD some people are saying that I need to buy a test kit that comes with test vials instead of using the test strips. Which test kit should I buy?
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Just picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
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Just this morning I tried to remote start my '13 F250 6.7 and all i got was the doors lock and a two honks. The two honks are usually when there is a door left open when you click the lock button two times but all of my doors were locked. After I started the truck with the key and took it out to go run a errand I noticed the check engine light turned on. Could this be connected or just a coincidence?
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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So I was driving earlier this morning and I noticed my overdrive light blinking, I didn't think much of it since I know the multi-function switch is bad and I haven't had time to change it yet, but a while later I was accelerating and just before it would shift from 2nd to 3rd it went to neutral. I played with the shifter a bit and found that if I shifted the column to 2nd I could drive in second, not a problem being only 3-4 miles from home.
I did a bit of digging and found I had blown the OBD2 fuse and saw a few people mention fuses as a possible shifting problem, Replaced that and still having issues. I have found that if i start out in drive I can shift into 2nd on the column then at the proper rpm put it back up into drive for 3rd and 4th. I just had the transmission re-built 400 miles ago and it is under warranty but I want to make sure it's not a computer or some other sensor before I call and bitch to them. I saw a couple posts referring to the shift solenoid but the problem was different.
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My 6.0 seems to only want to fire when cold, whats the issue?
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I just traded in my trusty, never had a single issue 2008 Ford F150 with 53k miles for a 2008 Ford F350 with 112k miles. I figured the extra miles were okay, because it is a diesel. I purchased the truck to pull a 31’ 12k lbs when loaded toyhauler, and I have a 14K weight distribution hitch.
Just in case this makes a difference, here is some background information. I have a 2008 Ford F350 XLT 6.4L CrewCab Long Bed. Before purchasing it, I had Ford do a performance and safety inspection. Everything came back clear, so I bought it. The day after purchasing it, I changed all the fluids for peace of mind, ie. rear diff, transfer case, transmission, motor oil & filter, fuel filter, and radiator fluid.
Here is the problem. Occasionally, the 4x4 Low light will start blinking/flashing. Sometimes it will only flash once or twice and go off, other times it will flash for 15-20 seconds and then go off. There is no pattern to when it happens other than it seems to do it mostly when slowing down or breaking. It is very sporadic. I don’t drive very far for work, so I can go an entire week without seeing the light come on, but if I hit the highway for 30-45 minutes, the light will eventually turn on.
When it flashes, occasionally, I get an RPM increase…almost like it’s trying to engage natural or shift into 4x4 low at highway speeds…which causes me concerns. I took it to Ford and after 50 miles of driving it around, they could not get the 4x4 low light to come on. They said they pulled codes but there were none to pull. They reflashed the PCM and charged me $99 to not fix my problem.
I can shift into 4x4 high and 4x4 low (with the window rolled down, I can hear the shifting from 2wd to 4wd high and then to 4wd low and back to 2wd), so I don’t think it is a blown fuse or the control module. I removed and cleaned the wire connectors to the shift motor on the transfer case, and that didn’t fix it. I was thinking about replacing the rear diff abs speed sensor in hopes that will fix it. I think that maybe it’s a wiring issue, which I wouldn’t even know where to start.
I was getting 14 mpg before the reflash and after, I am now getting 8 mpg. Does this seem right? Or is there a learning period after a reflash before my mpg gets back to normal.
Also, the automatic 4x4 drive doesn't work. I don't think its holding a vaccum. I don't think it is related to the 4x4 low light coming on when I am doing normal driving. I can use the lockers to get 4x4 to work correctly. Infact, Ford is the one that told me the auto doesn't work.
Edit: I also noticed that if I flip ON any of the upfitter switches (ie AUX 1, AUX 2, AUX 3, AUX 4) the 4x4 low light will flash constantly until turned off. I currently don't use any of the switches for anything.
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I have 2002 F250SD, The horn just starts blowing by itself. Bump the horn switch and it stops for a couple of weeks. I've looked at the wires to the fuse box and no wires shorting out the horn wire. I read some very old posts but nothing conclusive was ever decided on, just a lot of guessing. The horn switch has always been sensitive.
Somebody said the air bag is warming up in the sun and expanding causing the horn to blow. Somebody said the horn relay, but in 55 years of working on trucks, I have never had a horn relay act like that. I'm told the horn relay is built in the back of the fuse box and it all has to be replaced. Some say the clock switch. I don't know what that is or where it is. I guess inside the steering wheel. Is it hard to replace?
Where do I go from here....
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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I know this has been done to death, but on my '08 F250 XL I can't seem to get the truck to enter into the programming mode to program some fobs to it. I've done the cycling business and the best I get is a flashing light on the dash of the truck with a little lock on it, but nothing else. Can you not program the XL? Is there a major step I am missing?
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1998 F-250 LD 4x4 463,000 km.
My truck begins to flash the OD light after driving about 10 km. So I borrowed a friend's scan tool and got a P0503, and P1500. So having been pointed to the vehicle speed sensor, I connected TORQUE and watched closely vehicle speed. Driving at a steady 80 kph it will jump rapidly up and down, from about 72-92, while the gauge in the instrument cluster reads a calm and steady 80.
Which sensor and wiring do I need to inspect? Rear diff or on the back of transfer case? Oh, and the ABS light is NOT on.
Sent from Nexus 4. IB AutoGroup
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