Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Change Brake Fluid Periodically?
Apr 7, 2015
Should brake fluid be changed periodically? If so, how often?
View 7 RepliesShould brake fluid be changed periodically? If so, how often?
View 7 RepliesI have a quick question. I am gonna change the fluid in my 01 f250 rear end. it has 410 gears and a limited slip diff. if i use full synthetic gear oil do i have to add the limited slip additive or just the 75w-140 full synthetic gear oil.
View 14 RepliesTrying to stay up on my maintenance on my '11 f-350 diesel. It just turned 59k. I can only find Ford's recommended service interval for changing the fluid in the transfer case listed in the "Special Operating Conditions" section of my Scheduled Maintenance Guide for towing, delivery, off-road and dusty conditions at 60,000 miles. I tow some, but maybe 20% of the time, I end up driving a lot of stop and go though.
So I found this nice how to online "Guzzle's Transfer Case Fluid Change" - it's for a 02 heavy duty, is it about the same on the newer diesel trucks?
I just picked up an 09 F250 a couple of weeks ago and I was planning on replacing all the fluids since I'm not sure when everything had been done in the past, but it did pull a camper 5th wheel. It has about 93000 Km/57000mi on it
One thing I noticed when reading the manual is that a rear diff fluid change is not necessary on these rear axles unless they have been submerged in water or repaired etc..
Just after I got it I noticed the pinion seal was leaking. It was fixed under warranty but the dealer did not replace the diff fluid as they said Ford will not pay for it.
My question is do you think I need to replace the diff fluid or should it still be good, given the relatively low mileage.
Back, I flushed when it turned opaque...
Then I bought a car engineered to last more than just a couple 100K miles and was surprised to find a lot of items in the preventive maintenance list that I never thought about.
It recommended flushing every 30K or 2 years. A bit of research showed this was also recommended by several other manufacturers. Even more common with advent of ABS.
So now I try to flush at least every 2 or 3 years.
I still have not found any recommendations from Ford or GM? Either I'm blind or (cynic stepping in) they still don't expect vehicles to last that long... Or like to sell replacement parts?
My brake fluid reservoir is real flimsy. I was checking fluids and noticed when I touched it, It felt like it was going to fall off.
View 7 RepliesI have replaced the cruise control cut off switch and post-recall pig tail twice in two years for fluid leaks. Whats the deal do they all leak?
View 6 RepliesSo I recently replaced my brakes and rotors with parts from frozen rotors. Today, I noticed a smell coming from my truck right before I got it home. I also noticed before the smell, it was pulling to the left. And when I braked, also pulling to the Left. I think I may have a brake dragging. I have heard about the caliper slide pins freezing, but when I replaced my brakes and rotors, none of them were frozen and appeared to be in good shape. I have the truck jacked up now with the wheel removed and didn't find anything apparent. I just took the caliper off and had my buddy press on the brake slowly while I watched the pistons. Only the piston closest to the fluid inlet came out. The other one did not move. Does this indicate any type of malfunction?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 f-250 6.4 Diesel. Yesterday the Brake Fluid light came on. I thought maybe a sensor, but once I parked and checked I realized my brake fluid was down to the Min line. I started looking for a leak and it was apparent that it was the front drivers wheel area.
I am attaching a picture of the brake. The leak is either coming from the area where the fluid line runs into the gold thing (caliper?) or the bolt at the bottom of the gold thing.
I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 F350 XL Heavy Duty 6.0L truck that has 68,XXX miles. I recently changed the rear brake pads and about a week later the rear passenger side is leaking brake fluid. The fluid is slowly dripping from the bottom caliper bolt but i am not sure if there are seals in this area. the driver side is fine and the fluid is only leaking from the bottom caliper bolt not the top.
View 2 RepliesI've been chasing a noise/vibration that periodically comes from the front end of my '99 F250 SD. Quick & dirty of it........basically while cruising 55-60 down the road, sometimes when I hit a bump in the road or go over some railroad tracks or something like that I will get a grinding/vibration from what sounds like the front drivers side wheel. Best way to describe it is it literally sounds like my wheel is running on the rumble strip on the edge of the road at road speed. It will fade in & out a little & last maybe 5-20 seconds & eventually quite until some time farther down the road if I hit another bump. Doesn't happen all the time, just randomly.
So far to try & problem solve I have lifted the front & spun & kicked & wiggled & pulled on the wheel to see if I can feel or hear anything & everything seems solid. I have pulled the wheel off & looked the whole hub & wheel bearing over & everything seems fine. I have even pulled the 4x4 lockout out & inspected everything in the lockout & inside the wheel bearing & can't find anything that seems to be bad. (My original thought was that the Warn hubs I have might be messed up & the hub is trying to engage while driving down the road & that is the grinding & vibration I'm feeling.).
As mentioned above I have Warn manual hubs, I just replaced the wheel bearing last summer (only have about 10,000 miles on it), & all the seals & ball joints were done about 3 years ago.
I have a 6.0 and the air filter light keeps coming on and going off periodically, it seems like the engine is missing bad at times, runs better when tow/haul is on. I am not picking up and codes when I put it on the scanner. I'm possibly thinking injectors.. a friend of mine said something about checking out the "PCM"?
View 4 RepliesCircumstances required me to make an emergency trip to Phoenix this week. On the way down, I first got the "Oil change soon" warning, followed by the "Oil change required" message a few hundred miles later.
I religiously keep my truck serviced on time, and have never had either of these warnings come up before. My truck had 2700 miles on it since last service was done when this first warning came up. My truck gets very little idle time, so it's not sitting idling for hours a day.
My question is, is this oil change message a result of an actual oil monitoring sensor that measures oil quality on-the-fly, or is it strictly based on a miles or odometer timer that gets reset when dealer changes the oil?
At this point I'm wondering if the kid that serviced my truck either forgot to reset a timer, or worse, just "pencil whipped" my oil change. I have to call my home dealer back, since the service manager wasn't in yet when I called.
I just bought a 2014 6.7 and the dealer claims every 10k. What is your alls opinion for optimum performance and engine life?
View 12 RepliesI have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home.
All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
I change my own oil. I've done it at 2K, and 5K. Odometer just hit 5500 (Had it almost a year, Man I gotta get out and drive it some more!). Now when I start it up the "engine oil change soon" message appears. I can hit reset on the steering wheel, and it goes off, but the next time I start up, it's back. How can I let the truck know that the oils been changed already?
View 6 RepliesBought a truck that has the speedometer face that reads KMH on the top in the big numbers and MPH in little numbers. Ideally, is there an decal or plate I can affix in front of the KMH plate that will reverse those so that MPH is the more prominent? Or, worst case, where can I get a new plate for the instrument cluster. It's a 2012 F-350 XLT gas.
View 10 Replies03 F250 250k+ miles has a sputter when lugging, instead of down shifting just lug it for a sec and feels like a bad coil pack missing or water in gas miss but smooths out as soon as rpm's are up.
How long can you go on a set of factory injectors?
A friend gave me a set of pink injectors from his mustang but I have orange ones in the truck. Just wondering if the swap is possible and what effects it would have. A chart I pulled up showed that the orange ones are #19 and the pink ones are #22.
Still getting around 13 mpg but losing power, wondered if they are worn and putting in to much fuel, or just not giving the proper mist.
My truck: 2004 F250 SD 5.4L 191k auto lifted 3" 315/75/16 tires 3.73 rear. When I got the truck with 149k it got between 12.5-13.5 in town and 15.5-16.5 long hwy trips. Also the truck could get up and go no problems. Would easily go up hills without kicking down gears and shooting up in the rpms. Been pulling a 32ft trailer last two years and was getting between 6-8.5 mpg pulling it. The Truck is now slow to move up hill even when not towing, kicks down a lot and is getting horrible mileage. I could get 370 miles on a tank before, now I get 226 miles to a tank. Getting around 8.7-9.5 mpg in town and 10.8 hwy.
Two months ago I blew two plugs and had that repaired. (Gas mileage was falling before that happened and didn't change after it got fixed.)
Recently changed fuel filter, plugs, air filter and oil. Visually inspected MAF and I can't see any build up on it. Looks really clean.
So here is my questions... What else can I do to fix the gas issue. I am thinking about going down to a 285 or 295 series tire, but don't want the truck to look goofy with small tires on. 3" lift. So what else? Did someone say maybe the cat was starting to clog, but wouldn't that throw codes? Would a true cold air intake improve the performance?
I just changed my batteries in my truck. Twas the originals still in it. Afterwards, everything works except the radio. I tried everything and no radio. The clock is there when I press the On/Off/Volume. When I press the phone, the display says "no phone". But otherwise I get nothing. I can't even get in the menu to set the clock. I checked the fuses related to the Amp, Subwoofer, radio, Satellite, etc. I did not see anything in the fused under the hood that could be related.
View 8 Replies