Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Calibration Complete Message On Dash Flash And Disappear
Sep 27, 2016
Took a trip last week towing the toyhauler. 400 miles one way. 2008 F350 4x4 dually, bone stock, 35,000 miles. On the trip home, as soon as I left campground I started getting a message on the dash- Calibration complete. Would flash and disappear. Then it would flash it again and right after would say "Drive slowly in circle to calibrate". Did this off and on entire way home even after shutting truck off a couple times. I haven't had time to look in the manual yet, what it's for.
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Is it possible to add the factory keyless entry without replacing the complete dash harness? I have an aftermarket unit I can add but I'd rather have oe if possible. Truck is an 2003 f250 v10.
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Driving the truck today I noticed mssg from info on dash " problem with trailer wiring". I wasn't hauling anything. the message went away on my next stop when a truck was turned off. On my next stop, I was pulling into a parking space truck stalled and I saw another message saying something like " please pull over safely and stop a truck." Luckily I was already parked. the truck would not start or even turn over. after about an hour truck started but brake symbol was on the dash.
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Just picked up my F250 a few days ago and it's been great up until yesterday when I hopped in to start her up and nothing. It's a brand new battery and all lights worked, but the dash was dead. I attempted in vain for an hour or so to diagnose as to why this was happening and just happened to open the door with the key in the ignition and hit the door lock button....all of a sudden the truck starts beeping and the message on the dash said "to disable alarm start vehicle". I turned the key, the dash lighted up and away I went. What I may have done to cause this or has it happened to you? I'm thinking it's something with the key fob but not sure.
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I'm having an issue with my 2001 F350 V10. A seriously annoying high pitched whining noise appeared a while ago, then disappeared, and has now come back.
It happens as soon as I start my truck, whether it's cold or warmed up already. it increases in pitch and loudness as I increase RPM, it also does exactly the same in neutral. As soon as I put it in gear (R, D, 2, 1) it completely disappears and will come back as soon as I shift back to P or N. Strangely, if I drive around town for a few minutes, when I get back home and shift to park the sound doesn't really come back, sometimes it will be faint but usually it's totally gone. But if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on again then it's there again.
It's coming from somewhere in the engine compartment or close but due to the nature of the sound it's very difficult to locate. I got underneath using a screwdriver as a stethoscope and listened to the transmission, transfer case, starter, oil pan and even the gastank and it doesn't sound like it's coming directly from any of them. While underneath I noticed power steering fluid leaking from the pump behind the pulley and dripping off the hose. Somehow though I don't think it's related as the sound disappears in gear and doesn't change at all when turning the wheels. I cleaned the fluid off and drove around a bit and it doesn't seem to be leaking too badly and my reservoir is totally full.
The truck otherwise is driving as good as it always has and whatever this sound is doesn't seem to be having any effect on performance (yet...) ...
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I have a 2004 f250 superduty. I lost all electric to truck. No lights, radio, etc. Turn key and no click or dash lights. I put a charger directly to battery and nothing. Is there a main fuse in power line prior to the fuse box under the dash??
Also, right before this happened, I went to start my truck and my batteries were low, the truck turned over a few times, started dying, so I turned the key off, and the truck kept turning over on its own, as if the circuit remained closed for ignition due to low battery, and it turned over by itself until the battery was completely dead. But putting my battery charger on it now gives me no electric at all.
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Have an 06 F250. When I slow down to make a turn then accelerate it's like the drive shaft spins half a turn before it catches. Been doing it for awhile now. Now I'm get a clunk when I come to a complete stop. When you stop then truck settles there is a little clunk. Does this sound like the slip yoke problem?
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1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
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I just bought the truck 2 days ago and the power steering is acting up. When I test drove it I noticed the power assist seemed weak but it has gotten way worse over 2 days.
Truck is a 2001 F250 4x4 V10 auto. 60k miles and totally stock except for Harley Edition wheels and stock size tires.
Now at a complete stop the wheel won't turn at all. If I roll it works. Doesn't matter if I rev the engine. It doesn't matter if I'm on or off the brakes. Tires have plenty of air. The pump is quiet and does not make any abnormal noises.
This is terrible because how can you maneuver a trailer if you can't turn the wheels when stopped.
I noticed the fluid was low and not reading on the dipstick. I added a few ounces and that's all it took with no change. I then used a suction pump to empty the reservoir with the truck off. The fluid was very dirty, probably the original fluid given the mileage. I removed about a quart and refilled it with fresh Mercon ATF. I also changed the serpentine belt because I noticed the belt was probably the original and was cracked.
It went away briefly tonight as I was playing with it. I thought I fixed it but I was fooled. What I did was remove the reservoir cap and turn the wheel from lock to lock while rolling forward slowly. Suddenly it was fixed . But 5 minutes later the problem was back.
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Yesterday I returned my F-250 SUPERDUTY 5.4 To stock on the sct flash tuner that came on the truck. after returning it to stock i tried to start the truck to leave about an hour later and instantly wouldnt start it backfired. we returned it back to the tune that was on the truck, still no start. we replaced the starter, the battery still nothing. if it sits for a little while it will attempt to turn over. it has a strong odor of gas in which led me to possibly thinking its vapor locked? or the pcm being bad or maybe the crank shaft sensor? the truck has ran strong and had zero problems up until now when we took the tuner off. it runs about 6 codes now, a few being the kam the o2 and low voltage.
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2016 F250 6.7L 4x4
I getting some tranny noise when towing on incline from a complete stop. When I slowly press the gas pedal I hear grinding noise. If i press the gas more my truck starts to move and the noise goes away. It doesnt happen all the time. This started right after my 1000 miles recommended break in before towing per ford manual.
My truck now has 2800 miles and the grinding noise occurs intermediately regular driving. Mostly on steep incline or decline. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet because I cant recreate the issue all the time.
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I have a 2000 f250 superduty gas v10 6.8L . I bought this truck about 4 months ago. Now when I take off from a complete stop the truck shakes up until second gear, shifts fine all the way up until the last gear it looses power "loosing power" i mean i can put my foot into the pedal and it takes forever to climb speed meanwhile the RPM'S never skyrocket like it the transmission was slipping if anything a couple times the RPM's dropped are stayed the same then as i take my foot off of the pedal once i have my desired speed sometimes not always the truck will give me a little jerk Also Just the other day I was driving on the highway and decide to put her on cruise control at about 70mph, I set the cruise control and the RPM gauge was just over 2,000 and the tach was fluctuating up and down about 1/16 of an inch. I been reading alot of forums and what I got out of them is it maybe pointing me to a misfire maybe the coil packs? Plugs?It's not something major like a transmission rebuilt.
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Experiencing a melt down with one of my trucks. One of our trucks is an 06 F250 SD with 80k on a 5.4L and the other day the tow/haul light started to flash. I took it to a buddy's repair shop (who is an experienced Ford tech and tranny guy) any way, it shifted fine until about the last 1/2 mile before I got to his shop, then it started shifting in and out of different gears. He found solenoid "A" pressure solenoid failure and one other solenoid failure, he replaced all 7 solenoids and also found the pigtail from the transmission to the wire harness bad as well and replaced that. I pick it up and get about a mile down the road and the light starts to flash again so I took it back, he ran his scanner and now found something with the coast clutch and through all his testing it told him the coast clutch needs replaced. He removed the trans. and tore it all down and found nothing wrong with anything, in fact he said everything looked in great shape and thinks the pcm failed.
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Need better understanding of the wiring and turn signal selector than I do in my 07 6.0 HD. At first the issue started with the right front and right mirror blinking fast indicating a burnt out rear right turn signal. However after a few seconds the right rear will start working and the speed would be normal. I noticed it worse on very wet days making me think the rear tail light was letting in water and messing with the bulb. But it turns out it does it on nice days too.
These days it has evolved into the turn signal sometimes taking a few seconds before any of the right side actually starts to flash, also sometimes the indicator does not automatically deactivate after a right turn.
Giving the bottom of the steering column a calibrated tap usually always fixes the issue until the next turn.
Assuming its a bad turn signal selector switch Part number YL3T-13K359-ABJAEA but not knowing the wiring diagram I dont see how this bad switch would intermittently stop controlling the right rear turn signal. I would guess that it would tell the flasher left or right, not which lefts and which rights.
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Okay, I just bought the truck (all stock except for straight pipe and cai). Nothing bullet proofed yet. It has 125,xxx miles on it and for the 4 months I had it I had no issue. Well now while idling or driving the glow plug light will flash on then off and stay off. I'll have no power and after a few minute it'll die on me. But start right back up. Is this a harness issue? 2006 6.0.....
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I have an '01 F350 super duty dually, 7.3L, auto trans. Over the past weeks my overdrive light on the gearshift would flash intermittently, maybe once every couple weeks. I chalked it up to a prior theft attempt where the steering column was damaged, and had turn signal/hazards issues after that.
Over the past few days my reverse gear has taken longer to engage, and is hard getting into the higher gears at speed. As of yesterday, reverse is out and won't shift out of second. Fluid level is good and clear. Could this be a PCM issue, or some sensor or relay?
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I just traded in my trusty, never had a single issue 2008 Ford F150 with 53k miles for a 2008 Ford F350 with 112k miles. I figured the extra miles were okay, because it is a diesel. I purchased the truck to pull a 31’ 12k lbs when loaded toyhauler, and I have a 14K weight distribution hitch.
Just in case this makes a difference, here is some background information. I have a 2008 Ford F350 XLT 6.4L CrewCab Long Bed. Before purchasing it, I had Ford do a performance and safety inspection. Everything came back clear, so I bought it. The day after purchasing it, I changed all the fluids for peace of mind, ie. rear diff, transfer case, transmission, motor oil & filter, fuel filter, and radiator fluid.
Here is the problem. Occasionally, the 4x4 Low light will start blinking/flashing. Sometimes it will only flash once or twice and go off, other times it will flash for 15-20 seconds and then go off. There is no pattern to when it happens other than it seems to do it mostly when slowing down or breaking. It is very sporadic. I don’t drive very far for work, so I can go an entire week without seeing the light come on, but if I hit the highway for 30-45 minutes, the light will eventually turn on.
When it flashes, occasionally, I get an RPM increase…almost like it’s trying to engage natural or shift into 4x4 low at highway speeds…which causes me concerns. I took it to Ford and after 50 miles of driving it around, they could not get the 4x4 low light to come on. They said they pulled codes but there were none to pull. They reflashed the PCM and charged me $99 to not fix my problem.
I can shift into 4x4 high and 4x4 low (with the window rolled down, I can hear the shifting from 2wd to 4wd high and then to 4wd low and back to 2wd), so I don’t think it is a blown fuse or the control module. I removed and cleaned the wire connectors to the shift motor on the transfer case, and that didn’t fix it. I was thinking about replacing the rear diff abs speed sensor in hopes that will fix it. I think that maybe it’s a wiring issue, which I wouldn’t even know where to start.
I was getting 14 mpg before the reflash and after, I am now getting 8 mpg. Does this seem right? Or is there a learning period after a reflash before my mpg gets back to normal.
Also, the automatic 4x4 drive doesn't work. I don't think its holding a vaccum. I don't think it is related to the 4x4 low light coming on when I am doing normal driving. I can use the lockers to get 4x4 to work correctly. Infact, Ford is the one that told me the auto doesn't work.
Edit: I also noticed that if I flip ON any of the upfitter switches (ie AUX 1, AUX 2, AUX 3, AUX 4) the 4x4 low light will flash constantly until turned off. I currently don't use any of the switches for anything.
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We are in Montreal and are getting a "TBC Fault" message from the tow command brake controller. The owners manual is a little fuzzy about it...says may experience degradation of braking. The message displays each time I start the truck and clears if I hit the reset. I get a good connection if I hook up, and can hear the brakes activate on trailer...just have not tried to tow.
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Is this the same thing as the regen? Got it for the first time yesterday at 775 miles. Just curious. On a related note, I've tried to run around town some with 5th and 6th locked out (speeds of around 55-60 on a regular basis, running about 2300-2500 rpms) to try to run this process...am I doing it wrong?
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OK....my gas cap (5.4 gasser) wasn't put on properly at the gas station. A couple of blocks later, the "Check Gas Cap" notice came on. I stopped a few blocks later, and installed the cap properly. The notice STILL came on. After messing with the cap 4 more times, I gave up, but the notice is still on. Do I need to have it "erased" like a code, or is there a problem with the cap? Everything LOOKS fine...
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How to shut off the Low Tire Pressure message? My tires are at 65-70 pounds and the message still shows up at every start up.
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