Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: CEL Sporadic Only When Cold - Code Read P0355?
Jan 24, 2014
Here is my situation. A month or so ago when it got cold out consistently I got a rough idle after start up.. CEL. Code read P0355, cylinder 5 misfire. Removed plug to check it. All was good, I put everything back together (anti seize, dielectric greased) So I replaced coil. It went away. This week got very cold and Code P0355 and flashing CEL. Drove for a mile or so and it went away. So I'm thinking vacuum leak, Intake gasket, egr valve or warped intake manifold?
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My 1999 super duty v10 has thrown a code but my scanner and a mechanics scanner won't power up and read the code, I also noticed that the cigarette lighter is dead. Which fuse controls both the plug and the lighter?
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Just did a drop an refill of my trans fluid. Put in a little under 8 qts.
My question is where should the fluid read ? Is half way between full and E good or should it be right up to the line ?
Obviously I'm reading it while trans is warm and in nuetral, engine running
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Since it has gotten cool outside my truck is back to not having any power or acceleration when cold. About 10 miles and it is fine. Also I got a code 2286 injection pressure high. Are these related? I cleared the code and it has not returned. The truck is completely stock.
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05 6.0 72,XXX miles. Will not start when cold (below 40ish) outside and engine is cold. Throws a P1378 code and no others (per the BullyDog Gauge Tuner that came with the truck). Checked the FICM with the voltmeter test on a morning it wouldn't start. Never dropped below 48 volts through the whole test. I can clear the code, try and start the truck and it comes back as soon as I try to crank it again. Warm days=no problems at all.
Oh yeah...I did go through the harness from the FICM to the injectors a while back and found a couple spots that were rubbing on various bolts. Peeled the insulation back and taped up the bad spots to keep from grounding something out so I don't think it's a harness issue. Also found a ground wire off on the back side of the FICM and reconnected that on the nearest valve cover bolt.
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I have a 2001 F350 and the temp read-out on the mirror hasn't worked since I got the truck in 2004. Where the sensor is. I found a connector on the back side the core support on the driver's side that has nothing plugged in. Could this be where it should be?
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I recently bought a 2005 Ford F250 Super Duty, diesel 6.0.
As I was driving to work this morning I noticed that the fuel gauge read almost full when it should have only had a half tank. A little while later I heard a beep and saw that the gauge was now on empty with a "Low Fuel" message displayed. Then I noticed the heater was suddenly blowing cold air.
I've only had the truck for a few weeks, but haven't had any other problems. I did replace the CD receiver and all of the instrument cluster lights a couple weeks ago, but everything seemed to be working fine after.
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I'm having a problem with starting the V10 in my 99 E350 cube van. It refuses to start when cold unless I stick my finger in the idle air control valve and force it shut, or use starting fluid, or a combination of both. Once I do get it started, it will die if I touch the throttle, but once warmed up, it runs fine. I have replaced the IAC, the cylinder head temperature sensor, the fuel filter and fuel pump, and cleaned the MAF. My code reader shows no codes, and like I say once warmed up it will run fine and restart no problem.
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So my 2010 has been bulletproof thus far. Now the last few weeks I've been working on a new property and using 4x4 a lot and driving in deep/wet grass.
This noise happens only when cold and only at low rpm. In/out of gear moving stopped doesn't matter. Tried to take it to dealer and it was warmed up by then and not doing it! So ill take em this video and leave the truck there for a couple hours and see if they can duplicate it.
Any guesses what this is? [URL] ..... And why I've been distracted off my truck!
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My 6.0 seems to only want to fire when cold, whats the issue?
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My 99 f450 7.3 runs bad on first start of day. I checked the codes 3 codes p0475, p0470 and p1247. Now here is what I tried I plugged it in over night and it will start and run as should the next morning with out side temp 47. Drove the truck late yesterday evening didn't plug up tried it this morning with a outside temp of 47 truck starts but missing and like of power. My problem seems to be temp related. Will low boost pressure cause this problem what do I need to do?
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2007 F350 Dually, 6.0L
AC will blow cold, then shift to blowing warm, muggy air, then back to cold. Seems to be some relationship with throttle movement. Cruising steady ac seems normal. Multiple throttle shifts in changing traffic seems to trigger the warm air. Once accelerate back to normal cruise, can feel clutch/compressor shift and blows cold again.
Any ideas? I have read a possible cause can be the ac clutch can wear and need to remove spacers? Is this a DIY job? What about the ac clutch relay switch? On reading an online repair manual, seems that the clutch is magnetic, and if no battery power to clutch, it removes itself from compressor?
Just had an EGR delete kit installed. Any relationship to this and ac problem?
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My tuck has been making a whining noise very similar to this and only when it's below freezing out. At 5 degrees it's even louder. Just noticed it the other day. Sounds like power steering whine. I have the 6.2 super duty.
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What a Brake Code - 4 means for a 1999 Super Duty on the door ID tag?
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I think the truck needs a recharge, it's not blowing any cold air. The question is - which port do I use? There's one on the top of the accumulator and another in the line just off the passenger side of the radiator, near the coolant tank.
My only recharge experience was after I replaced a leaking accumulator in my 2007 Crown Vic police interceptor, and this obviously doesn't look quite the same.
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I have an 06 F-250 Lariat with the crew cab. Even though the windows are tinted, the A/C struggles to keep the cab at 70 degrees on any given sunny day oer 80 degrees outside.
As long as you're driving on the interstate, it blows cold, but when slowing down (like a traffic jam or a stop sign) the air gets warmer and has a funny smell (like it's wet).
When I got the truck it had just gotten a new A/C compressor (160k miles). It stopped working last summer (180k miles) so I had the truck at the Ford dealer here and they replaced the A/C compressor, condenser, pressure regulator and dryer...basically all A/C components under the hood.
They tell me its working fine, but I find that hard to believe. No Ford I've ever had has had trouble keeping the cab ice cold even on the hottest days... How are your air conditioners working? Do they keep the cab cold? What I should look at?
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My a/c compressor crapped out a summer or two ago. I ordered a new compressor and dryer, oiled up the compressor properly, hooked it all up, vacuumed out the system, filled it with fresh 134a and it worked just fine for about a year. Mid-late last summer, the a/c quit working, so I hooked up my gauges to check it out.
Everything reads in the proper range. The high side is only about 150, which isn't stellar, but not terrible either - certainly enough to cool things down. Anyways, when I was sitting at idle checking things out, my compressor was running all the time and not cycling on or off. Given that I was not overcharged (according to my HF gauges), I tried to add a little more to it. It would only take half a bottle and the compressor never started cycling on/off, so I stopped tinkering with it for a while to think on it. I noticed that when I had it on driving in town, I could hear the a/c kick on and off every couple seconds like it was still low, but my gauges didn't indicate that it was low and it wasn't taking a charge like it was low. This whole time, the air from the vents is not even cool - just straight outside air temp and the lines don't feel cold either.
I had hot-wired my compressor to stay on and same story. The gauges show it's compressing with the low side right where it's supposed to be and the high side a tad low at idle, but easily jumping up to within spec with mild revs. The whole time, the vents and a/c lines are no colder than ambient.
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I have a 2002 f250 superduty 5.4 4x4 around 317xxx original motor and trans. When it's cold out it won't start at all I have to use starting fluid but once started it will start right back up. Did the plugs fuel filter cleaned the intake and sensors still have a problem plenty of fuel pressure plenty of cranking amps brand new battery and Alternator. It just cranks and cranks when it's warm out fires right up. Runs smooth no lack of power or misfire no codes are being thrown also.
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Background : 2002 Excursion 7.3L, 320k miles ...
AC was working OK, but not great. Then AC stopped blowing cold at all. Checked pulley, gap was huge, but pulley bearing was completely destroyed. Like, 1/2" wobble, half the ball bearings in there. Amazed it hadn't seized. Replaced pulley, set air gap to bottom of the spec.
Air seems to blow kinda cold briefly, then fades to no cooling after a couple minutes. Same at idle or moving. Front and rear both not cold. Lines in engine bay are cool, but not real cold
Compressor body feels hot, like...right at that threshold of too hot to touch. Don't have pressure gauges, but will buy/borrow some and take some readings.
What would symptoms of a clogged orifice tube be? What would symptoms of a clogged condenser be? If low on r134, I could refill, but any tips on chasing down leaks?
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My truck: 2004 F250 SD 5.4L 191k auto lifted 3" 315/75/16 tires 3.73 rear. When I got the truck with 149k it got between 12.5-13.5 in town and 15.5-16.5 long hwy trips. Also the truck could get up and go no problems. Would easily go up hills without kicking down gears and shooting up in the rpms. Been pulling a 32ft trailer last two years and was getting between 6-8.5 mpg pulling it. The Truck is now slow to move up hill even when not towing, kicks down a lot and is getting horrible mileage. I could get 370 miles on a tank before, now I get 226 miles to a tank. Getting around 8.7-9.5 mpg in town and 10.8 hwy.
Two months ago I blew two plugs and had that repaired. (Gas mileage was falling before that happened and didn't change after it got fixed.)
Recently changed fuel filter, plugs, air filter and oil. Visually inspected MAF and I can't see any build up on it. Looks really clean.
So here is my questions... What else can I do to fix the gas issue. I am thinking about going down to a 285 or 295 series tire, but don't want the truck to look goofy with small tires on. 3" lift. So what else? Did someone say maybe the cat was starting to clog, but wouldn't that throw codes? Would a true cold air intake improve the performance?
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