Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Burnt Rubber Smell While Driving / Parking Brake Seized
Jan 14, 2017
Noticed a burnt rubber smell while driving today. Stopped at a gas station and before I could get around to the other side of the truck, a guy stopped and told me there was smoke coming from the passenger rear wheel well. The truck seemed to run and drive fine. Didn't seem to be any noticeable drag, but once I got home I felt that wheel and it was a bit warmer than the others.
My parking brake pedal is all the way out and pulling on the release doesn't seem to relieve any pressure or "Pop" like it normally would if releasing the brake. We've got a good downpour of freezing rain right now and I'm not able to start pulling things apart. Anything easy I can try for now? Pretty sure it's seized by the way it's acting but I really don't use the parking brake. Auto trans and I live in a really flat area.
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So this morning I started my truck to move it out of the driveway and it sounded funny almost like I was running a ship vac under the hood. I moved it and shut it off and when I shut the truck off it sounded like screeching tires. I thought it was weird but chalked it up to it being cold. When I came home I started the truck again and I got the same vacuum noise. I figured I would let it run some since it was pretty cold out. All of a sudden I heard the noise stop so I went out and all I smelled was a burning smell but the truck was idling fine and running nice and quiet like it usually does. So I shut the truck off and then it wouldn't start again. So I tried to jump it still wouldn't start would barely try to crank. I crawled under smacked the starter a few times jumped it again and it started. I left it running for 20 mins after that no noise sounded fine. Any thoughts on what this could be?
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I just got this truck and didn't have any strange odors other than brake caliper which got replaced immediately. I got 4 new Mastercraft AXT tires last week and two days before that I got a muffler installed. I put a flowmaster on it (black) Now if I drive it about three four miles, I get a smell coming from somewhere which I can't locate because nothing is hot and it goes away within a few minutes so I cant pin point it. At first i thought it smelled like rubber heating up, but now not sure. I may take it back to tire dealer and have him check all the tires for balance. I had them do an alignment, so I would hope it isn't that. The smell came with the new tires I think....I had the exhaust worked on two days prior to that and didn't notice anything after that. I haven't checked anything else, but there isn't anything hot when I jump out and start sniffing around. Would tires do that if NEW or out of balance?
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I have a 2011 F350 diesel 6.7l. I have had this smell outside the front of the vehicle for months and so I took it finally to a dealer to solve the leak problem. They spent hours on it and eventually found a leak in a tube at the rear of the engine under the intake manifold and supposedly solved my problem. That was 2 weeks ago and I have driven about 300km.(180 miles) but the smell is still noticeable. How long should I wait before it goes away or should I return it to the dealer for further work?
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I recently purchased an '08 F-350 4x4 Lariet Supercab 6.4l and was told by the 3rd party inspection that it needs rear brake pads (2mm left). Are the caliper pistons retractable without having the pistons seize down the road? HOw about the fronts? See below.
I ask as on my '06 F-250 XLT 4x2 5.4l the rear calipers seized without even doing a pad change and the fronts seized about 100 miles after a pad change. Come to find out it is a common problem with the '06 and the calipers either have to be replaced or rebuilt when changing pads. Now I've been "told" to expect the same with the '08.
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2002 Lexus ES300 202k ... What causes a temporary burnt oil or rubber smell when I brake hard, lasts only about 1-2 minutes ...
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited.
I recently noticed a burnt rubber smell after driving on some winding roads where I live. It's only coming from one side of the car. So I had it in for an oil change and tire rotation on Saturday and they told me the following:
My front brakes were 13. My left rear (5) is wearing harder than my right rear (10). Could this be a caliper issue? Or maybe something is just stuck? Maybe take off the tires and lube or grease things up. There aren't any recalls other than a stop lamp switch.
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My mother-in-law moved my car and put the emergency brake on (2010 Santa Fe) when she got out. When I got into drive home, I drove about 10miles with it engaged (for some reason the light didn't indicate it was on). When I got home I noticed a burnt rubber smell from the left rear tire. (no smoke though)
Our driveaway is an incline. After engaging/disengaging the e-brake, the light started coming back on again. If I put the car in neutral and release the regular brakes, it will quickly roll back. If I put the e-brake on in netural and disengage the regular brake, it still holds fine on the hill.
I know the damage can vary, but any test or check I can do to determine the amount of damage?
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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The '99 F250 has the parking brake release under the dash, way down low. While I was in the wrecking yard, I noticed many Excursions and Econolines have them on the left, by the parking brake. Whether one of those might work, if I installed it on my '99?
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How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
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When I parked my truck at work this morning, I pushed the parking brake pedal down like always, but it popped back up. I didn't pop all the way back up, it stayed down about 1/4 of the way. Several tries yielded the same results.
Since I'm at work, I didn't have any time to crawl under there are investigate. I'll do so tonight when I get home, or maybe tomorrow. Kinda sounds like the locking "teeth" mechanism may be misaligned?? Since it doesn't come all the way back up, I'm hoping the mechanism isn't totally broken.
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I was just under my 2000 F250 7.3l crew cab truck and noticed a small diameter rubber hose dangling from my front drivers side brake housing area. It is attached near two other cables which are similar to cables on the passenger side. I don't see a similar hose on the passenger side. The hose is completely deteriorated and broke off up higher towards the engine. I cannot see where it goes. What it may be?
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How do I adjust the parking brake on my 08 F250? It's not holding when my truck is parked on a hill.
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I have a f250 super duty. I blew a brake line the main going to the rear. So the genius that I am I replaced the line an simple enough I decide hell why not replace the master cylinder too, so I did an I bleed the brakes an everything works jst fine but now the the brake light won't turn off I have tried everything not sure what could possibly cause the light to stay on. I will eliminate some suggestions, I bleed the brakes, the brake fluid is full, the level sensor is completely attached, the parking brake is not on, I pulled the parking brake completely out, even completely disconnected the sensor thinking it would turn off bu it didn't.
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Parking brake light stays doesn't come on when the parking brake is engaged. The light DOES come on when starting the vehicle and the gauge cluster cycles through its start up procedure. Couldn't find a fuse that would fix my issue...does one exist?
Truck is an '02 F250 w/ 7.3TD and 6 speed manual.
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I'm re-doing the parking brake as part of a rear brake job on my 2009 F250. I need to disconnect the intermediate brake cable at the equalizer, but am having trouble. I've got slack in the cable, but can't push hard enough to get the swaged cable end to move within the connector that's between the equalizer cable and the intermediate cable.
Is there a special tool or some trick to this? If push comes to shove, I can cut the connector (assuming I can get a replacement), but would rather not.
Also, any particular trick to disconnecting the cable to the parking brake lever at the wheel? With that huge spring between the cable bracket and the end of the lever, I haven't been able to move the cable end enough to disconnect it from the lever. Since I don't have the intermediate cable disconnected, could that have something to do with it?
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Are the parking brakes on rear disks adjustable at all? Mine doesn't hold very well anymore, but I'm not quite ready to rebuild the whole thing. If there are adjusters (similar to drums), which way you turn them on which side of the truck?
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I'm working on an '05 F350 King Ranch dually, and I'm pretty sure the pb cable is stretched. I recently replaced the shoes in the pb assembly and adjusted the tension while I was in there, but it still barely holds. My next culprit sounds like a stretched cable, and I have a complete set for a new one, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one out. The link that holds the front and intermediate cables together won't pry open with any tool I have, and I've broken two drill bits trying to drill out the nub holding the front cable in.
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Will leaving the parking brake on burn up the axle seals? My parking brake isn't working well at the moment. I need new ones from all the fluid my bad seals leaked on them. So, at the moment they just scrub a bit while its engaged. However, today I found out that my parking brake light for one reason or another is not working and I got in a hurry and didn't release the brake. by the time I got to where I was headed (about 15 miles), I could smell gear fluid burning and my driver side rear was smoking. I'm hoping its the fluid that was already soaked into the shoes. I did find a drop of fluid on the bottom of my brake caliper.
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The parking brake audible warning is going off along with the parking brake light. I tried disengaging the brake multiple times and it went off once, however now it will not go off. I found some older pictures of a switch on the arm that swings with your foot when you engage the brake, but I can't find it on my 2004.
Is there a switch down there that needs to be kicked, contacts cleaned or replaced? I checked the fluid level and vacuum hoses and do not see anything obvious.
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