Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Bucking And Jerking / Won't Go Above 2000 RPM
Sep 29, 2013
I have a bucking and jerking 6.0 right now. It will buck and then won't go above 2000 rpm or it will lurch or if I hold the pedal down lose power unless I drop it below 2000rpm. If I put the pedal down the truck wont go above 2000 rpm and will go up on speed. the erg was deleted but its trowing crazy amount of white smoke from the exhaust. When the truck starts up some white smoke comes out but eventually clears up when you keep it under 2000 rpm.
When on idle you can step down the pedal and hear the truck failing on revs like an injector issue but i checked and they arent the problem. the problem got fixed for a couple of weeks when i changed the Y pipe because the other was ruptured but the problem came back and its even worse now i can use the truck for nothing.
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I have a 2005, f350 6.0. I am new to owning a diesel and have a lot to learn. My truck runs excellent and has no issues,until I push the tow haul button in! It starts bucking at 2,000rpm and my rpm's shoot down to a low rpm and jump back up to a higher rpm. It's like the truck wants to shift but the tow haul is enabling it so it falls on its face i have never heard a truck or seen a truck act like this, but everyone says you don't want to pull with an automatic without the tow haul. I have just been leaving the tow haul off and the ruck pulls just fine.
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165k miles 4x4 6 speed, bone stock unmolested
Slowly progressing problem over 6 months. Occasional miss at highway speeds uphill has progressed to bucking and jerking during even gentle acceleration attempts.
I hadn't got my cam sensor recall done but no change after that procedure completed yesterday. Oil recently changed as well.
I have a torque pro but it never finds any fault codes even though 'service engine' light comes on sporadically. I'm not sure I'm operating it properly but it at least reads rpm when its running.
I'm contemplating the hutch mod but I'd like to have an official diagnosis beforehand if its possible in my case.
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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This is the first winter for my truck, and the first time I've driven a truck in the winter. I struggled to get out of my street this morning, through 15" of unplowed heavy snow. As the traction control seems to engage, and even sometimes when it doesn't, the truck literally shakes very violently. I even had to lock the rear diff to get out this morning, but that didn't seem to make the shaking any worse. What causes the shaking? Is it just my truck? I've driven Land Rovers with full-time 4x4 for years, never any shaking even when they are spinning like crazy and traction control is operating. One thing I did learn that seemed to be a question of several on this forum...traction control does operate on the front wheels when 4x4 is engaged, in addition to the rears.
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I have a 2001 Ford F-250 5.4L V8. 117,000 miles. The problem I have been relentlessly trying to diagnose is a slight bucking that occurs under load when the truck is in overdrive. When the truck bumps up to higher RPM's it is fine but when it is around 1500-1700 RPMs on the highway it does a small buck like I'm hitting a bump in the road. I know there are many threads on this but none of them have gotten me any closer to a resolution. It also seems to have a bit of power loss when accelerating. Things I have done so far.
-Spark plugs and COP replaced about 1000 miles ago
-New fuel filter
-Cleaned MAF sensor
-Cleaned throttle body
-New PCV
-Seafoam treatment in gas and through brake booster.
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Just purchased a 2001 Ford F150 super crew lariat v8 4.6/5.4 2v OAD at 156k miles, iv had no problems with it until I drove over the pass and after 2hours of driving my truck started to jerk when I accelerate between about 40-60mph. I don't experience any other problems over 60 it runs smoothly and in town under 40 it also runs smoothly, no check engine light. The next day is still continues to make a jerking motion, which feels like from the rear....
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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I have another very odd problem with my 2003 F250 7.3 PS with 206000 miles on it.
I am visiting my parents and every time I go thru this certain area my truck will act up. The first thing that happens is the truck starts losing power and then it starts bucking like water in the fuel or the cam position sensor is giving out.
WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR: I have drained the fuel filter assembly ( no water ) and a new cam position sensor has been installed (about 5000 miles ago, I even put old one back it to check it out same results). I have driven the truck all over the place and don't have an issue except in this ONE spot. I am beginning to think there is some kind of high powered RF going on in this area causing my truck to act up. I am thinking of hooking up my autoenginuity scanner up to it and hopefully see something going on.
Is there anything I can do to block this out if it is a RF problem. I think it is effecting my Pcm/ECM for then engine causing the truck to act up.
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I have a 2011 F250 Lariat, 6.2L V8. The past couple months i have noticed truck jerking/lunging during acceleration in the mornings usually between leaving the house and getting on the highway. Over the last 2 weeks the problem has progressed and seems to last longer. I have tried fuel injector cleaner with no success. This morning was the worst so far and after all this time i finally saw the maintenance "wrench" pop up on the on dash.
This was good news to me hoping that a local shop could read the code. However, when i dropped off my daughter and started back up the "wrench" went away. After warming up the problem seems to go away. This morning was so severe i lost speed and felt like the engine was going to stall.
I feel like this is related to the fuel system (injectors/pump/filter) but also haven't changed the spark plugs yet. My truck has 72,000 miles and otherwise is in good shape. How I should move forward?
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The truck. 2005 super d 6.0l. 200,000 miles
The problem. After start and warmup, and then a couple of miles driving, I make a slow 90 degree turn after a stop sign. The wheel in my grip seems to go stupid for a very short time. It responds by jerking and kind of stuttering. Yet it does this only once per trip. Also it does not do this every trip. Just sometimes. After the stutter the steering is Normal. There is no vibration at speed, and no wander from side to side. Everything seems solid and straight.
So what's going on? Should I start by draining the reservoir with a hose and refilling, repeat repeat, to "flush out old fluid". Or is my pump or steering box headed for a fail. Maybe hubs or knuckle joints.
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i'm looking to upgrade my mirrors. A friend told me to get the 08+ mirrors but I can't find anywhere online that says they will work. I'm hopefully going to be purchasing on Amazon but not sure which ones to get. When I pull up the 08+ they say "Fits Ford 2008-2015 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 F250 F350 F450 F550 Super Duty"
Ive got the 2000 F250 V10
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I have a 00 F250 7.3 4x4 and I am looking to get better mileage out of it since it is now a dedicated work truck for towing. The two options I have in mind I think will work, but just wanted some clarification and if one is even possible.
First I will be taking the lift off and dropping back down to 33 inch tires or so. This should give me a little, but if not it should be easier on the truck for towing.
And this truck mostly see's highway miles, so I was thinking about disengaging the 4wd. I heard 4wd trucks get worse mileage, so this is the one I didn't even know if it was possible. not digging in to the computer and injectors quite yet.
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Have a 2000 F-250 V-10 4x4 with 335,000 miles on the clock. Has started hesitating at 40-45. You can't really notice it at idle. Drove it around at lower speeds and just a miss here and there. Take it up to 40-45 and it's quite bad. Hasn't thrown any codes. Hooked it up to the scanner to get no additional info. My gut says coil packs but am kinda confused that I haven't gotten a misfire code yet. What to check?
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A vibration has just begun on my 00 f250 power stroke it's in the left front and happens when I hit a bump I changed out the wheel bearing assembly and I switched locking hubs with another truck all with no success don't know what else it could be it does go away if I lock in the hubs so idk
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I have a 2000 I got new in sept of 99 its a good truck and id like to keep it as long as I can its got 173,000 on it I take care of it garaged kept and consistent fluid/filter changes all over top and bottom few minor addons like turbo bak exhaust from Silverline,auto meter gauges so I can monitor temps ,a bigger transmission pan aluminum I did years ago ,a gear vendor 8 speed addon years ago,diablo predator tuner with the 80 horse tune been doing great for a quite a while lately I noticed if I leave it idling in park for a few minutes while in a store r sumpn it won't shift outa 3rd its like overdrive is turned off I have to pull over and kill&restart 7.3 and take off its fine what in the wide wide world a sports is happening my overdrive switch has been out for a couple years I just haven't replaced it yet it gradually got worse when using it id have to pull shift lever in to get it to engage then put in neutral then in park now cant get it to work at all hopefully I can fix it myself but my luck is never that good.
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2000 super duty v10 with 92,000 miles. Getting that common rattle around 2k rpm range that goes away if I give it gas or let off. I originally thought it was the inspection plate on the transmission so I removed it and went for a drive to verify. The sound is still present so the only thing I can think of is the catalytic converter is worn out??
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Got a 2001 F350 diesel auto, 295k miles.
It has miss when over 2000rpm. Below 2000 its smooth.
ICP has oil in sensor, ordered new one. Gonna change oil too.
CPS is new (not sure if its black or the other one). Starts idles and drives good otherwise.
Where should I look?
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What torque setting I should use for lug nuts on a 2000 F-350 dually?
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I have a 2000 f 250 that will not start... I have replaced many parts all electronic sensorsm the past week i have spent in the neighborhood of 1800.00 on this truck. Cps, icp, idm, ebps, fuel filter, new oil, hpop level good, gpr, all new need starting........
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I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
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