Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Bucking And Kicking In Deep Snow?
Feb 14, 2014
This is the first winter for my truck, and the first time I've driven a truck in the winter. I struggled to get out of my street this morning, through 15" of unplowed heavy snow. As the traction control seems to engage, and even sometimes when it doesn't, the truck literally shakes very violently. I even had to lock the rear diff to get out this morning, but that didn't seem to make the shaking any worse. What causes the shaking? Is it just my truck? I've driven Land Rovers with full-time 4x4 for years, never any shaking even when they are spinning like crazy and traction control is operating. One thing I did learn that seemed to be a question of several on this forum...traction control does operate on the front wheels when 4x4 is engaged, in addition to the rears.
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How many gear shifts I should have on my 6.0 2004 super duty, Ive counted 5 but it seems not to be in overdrive, I'm running a little over 2000 rpms at 65 mph?
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I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3. I am having a bit of a problem with the hvac system. When I turn the selector switch to floor heat only or put it on vent or both the a/c clutch kicks on and off. Not when I put it on defrost but as I said only when it is in the other positions. I do know that the clutch will kick in and out when on the defrost position. That is fine. But why would it kick in and out when in the heat only position?
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Bought a 2014 SD 4x4 in December of 2013 and this is the second time the big girl has been to the shop with A/C problems. First time it was the evaporator about three or four months ago. During the last few weeks of the summer I began to smell something strange (like band-aids) when the A/C was on and it lingered until the next re-entry. ALso, began to hear a slight hissing noise when the compressor was kicking in and out. They replaced the evaporator, smell remained as they said it was the refrigerant I was smelling. About two or three weeks ago the smell got slightly "larger", and last weekend she would not cool. This is the fourth time shes been to the shop with other problems such as the My Touch system..............
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Had green substance in snow near tailpipe or exhaust pipe ! Im sure this is not good (most likely antifreeze ) Truck has about 82000.00 miles on it and has towed sleds to vermont and back each year about 6 times or so .Looks like a head gasket, any thoughts on this problem ,overflow tank is down a little below cold minimum line. Is a additive possible? I am original owner and have not beat on truck ,oil has been changed regularly ,tranny and coolant have been changed. 2004 F250 ext. cab 5.4 v8 gas...
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So the other day 2/3/2014 my dad and I went out during the snow storm for the people that needed assistance. That day I pulled a 95' RWD dually with a 4 car open trailer and pushed 4 people from one location. Then after I went to assist the tractor trailer driver. My truck is a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4L with 4:10 gears. I got him unstuck then pulled him a 1/2 mile up a hill.
Pulling a stuck semi out of the snow - YouTube .....
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While driving into town during a recent snowstorm, my truck started to misfire quite badly. The check engine light started to flash and then remained on as I went to the auto parts store. The code indicated cylinder two misfire. I don't a few things of dry gas in the tank and let it run for a few minutes which seem to solve the problem.
Since then, however,every time the engine gets even a little bit wet it starts to bark again. It usually lasts a few minutes then goes back to normal. Typically, I would have replace the plug wires. When I lifted the hood of my truck I realize I knew nothing about it.
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I have a bucking and jerking 6.0 right now. It will buck and then won't go above 2000 rpm or it will lurch or if I hold the pedal down lose power unless I drop it below 2000rpm. If I put the pedal down the truck wont go above 2000 rpm and will go up on speed. the erg was deleted but its trowing crazy amount of white smoke from the exhaust. When the truck starts up some white smoke comes out but eventually clears up when you keep it under 2000 rpm.
When on idle you can step down the pedal and hear the truck failing on revs like an injector issue but i checked and they arent the problem. the problem got fixed for a couple of weeks when i changed the Y pipe because the other was ruptured but the problem came back and its even worse now i can use the truck for nothing.
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So I have a 2004 F250 5.4 regular cab 4wd long bed that was bought used with a very heavy Western Pro plow. The truck only has 70K miles and it is equipped with the snow plow package and heavy GVWR package. Since I had no use for the plow, I removed it and all mounting hardware as soon as I got it home. The truck wanders and bounces down the road terribly.
It is tiring to drive and requires total attention. Reading posts on here about "wandering" left me thinking my steering box was probably worn out. I replaced this without any change. I figured that I must have other components needing fixed, but had not had time or money to dig deeper yet.
Now, this morning when leaving work, the truck had accumulated nearly an inch of very heavy, wet snow with a small layer of ice on the hood. Driving home was as if I were in another vehicle. Everything was tight and much less "hopping" when hitting small bumps. So, this leads me to my question. Do you think that simply adding some weight back to the front end, i.e.,: bumper, or brush guard, could be my answer? Or, is this simply covering up a more extensive problem?
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I have an f350 and it came with the snow plow package, does this make the front end of the truck sit higher? I was thinking about getting a leveling kit for it but when i measured there is only about 1 inch difference between the front and back.
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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I have a 99, F-350, V-8 &.3 Diesel, 6 speed with 2 WD. Is there a way to temporarily lock both rear wheels to obtain better traction in the snow?
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I have a 2001 Ford F-250 5.4L V8. 117,000 miles. The problem I have been relentlessly trying to diagnose is a slight bucking that occurs under load when the truck is in overdrive. When the truck bumps up to higher RPM's it is fine but when it is around 1500-1700 RPMs on the highway it does a small buck like I'm hitting a bump in the road. I know there are many threads on this but none of them have gotten me any closer to a resolution. It also seems to have a bit of power loss when accelerating. Things I have done so far.
-Spark plugs and COP replaced about 1000 miles ago
-New fuel filter
-Cleaned MAF sensor
-Cleaned throttle body
-New PCV
-Seafoam treatment in gas and through brake booster.
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I have a 2005, f350 6.0. I am new to owning a diesel and have a lot to learn. My truck runs excellent and has no issues,until I push the tow haul button in! It starts bucking at 2,000rpm and my rpm's shoot down to a low rpm and jump back up to a higher rpm. It's like the truck wants to shift but the tow haul is enabling it so it falls on its face i have never heard a truck or seen a truck act like this, but everyone says you don't want to pull with an automatic without the tow haul. I have just been leaving the tow haul off and the ruck pulls just fine.
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So the first issue is, if the vehicle is cold (regardless of temp outside) it takes forever to start it. It cranks and cranks and cranks and after a couple seconds of cranking I stop, wait a second, then try again. Usually it takes two sometimes three tries to start it. The guy who I bought it off of said it has newer glow plugs (last year I believe) and also I have replaced the batteries. Once its warmed up it does not do this at all.
Secondly and also something that just recently started happening, my water in fuel light keeps kicking in. I drained the water out of the water catcher reservoir under the truck multiple times and the first time water actually came out but every time after that simply diesel fuel comes out. I added a bottle of water remover to the fuel as well and ran it down to a quarter tank. Then filled the truck up completely, added two more bottles of water remover. The light still comes on. I noticed it only comes on when I am going up or down a fill. When I am driving on flat ground it does not kick on.
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It's happened to me the last 3 times I've taken my truck out and drove through some deep snow. I have a hard time shifting the transmission from drive to park. The snow must get packed up under the truck near the shift linkages.
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I have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
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I have another very odd problem with my 2003 F250 7.3 PS with 206000 miles on it.
I am visiting my parents and every time I go thru this certain area my truck will act up. The first thing that happens is the truck starts losing power and then it starts bucking like water in the fuel or the cam position sensor is giving out.
WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR: I have drained the fuel filter assembly ( no water ) and a new cam position sensor has been installed (about 5000 miles ago, I even put old one back it to check it out same results). I have driven the truck all over the place and don't have an issue except in this ONE spot. I am beginning to think there is some kind of high powered RF going on in this area causing my truck to act up. I am thinking of hooking up my autoenginuity scanner up to it and hopefully see something going on.
Is there anything I can do to block this out if it is a RF problem. I think it is effecting my Pcm/ECM for then engine causing the truck to act up.
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Truck has been taken care of, new Motorcraft plugs done 15,000 ago, never had any issues with truck until recently. Started bucking and kicking, threw CEL light, pulled codes. P0018, P0022, P0300, 305, 307 and 308. All of the misfires seem to be happening only on my left bank. I threw in a new camshaft position sensor just for the hell of it. This issue goes away and comes back intermittently. I drove it for a day and it did fine. Had power and then started it later to go home and it was misfiring, got to a stop light, cycled key and everything went back to normal. 2007 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4l Triton....116,000k....
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I have a 2002 Hyundai accent 1.6L w/ 190,000 miles. Around Christmas one cold morning right after getting gas at a grimey service station my car started running like crap misfiring badly. Kicking and bucking it barely got me to work (6 miles). I took the car to an Advanced auto and had them plug it in to check the engine light. It was throwing multiple codes P0300 (Multiple Misfire Detected), P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected). I told the guy at advanced that I thought it was bad gas and he agreed, so I put some dry gas and Lucas oil gas treatment in it. The problem seemed to get better within 50 miles, only misfiring when I drove it hard.
The problem has come back and this time the gas treatments are not working. I am getting the same two codes along with a new code P0133, (HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Slow Response) and the same symptoms, and to top it off my flex pipe has rusted out (for the second time).
So now I don't think the initial problem was water in the gas, and I am not sure what to make of it. The problem seems to happen more noticeably when I push the engine (first gear, and when accelerating) but then seems to get better when maintaining a constant speed. Also, the misfiring happens all the time but more noticeably when the engine gets to running temperature. First gear is by far the worst when the engine is warm.
- The car got a tune (filter(s), plugs wires) up about 6mo ago
- The timing belt is old about 90k on it
- A new crank shaft position sensor a year ago
- New O2 sensor (the 2nd one past flex pipe) 6mo ago
- Burning about 1qt of oil (synthetic) every 3k miles but no smoke
- The car has the original clutch w/ 191k on it!
This is where I stand. I don't care about the flex pipe or the timing belt. Unless I can defiantly pinpoint the problem to one of those two, the car has so many miles on it, to start dumping that kind of money into it doesn't make sense. I have put a spark test light on each of the plugs BUT the problem does not happen when the car is idle so it showed me nothing but properly functioning plugs. I was thinking the ignition coil (its original) but I think that would throw a code.
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One of the super coils busted while driving my 2002 F250 Super Duty. I drove it for less than 100 ft. before parking it. It made a rapid "check,check,check,check" sound, which I'm assuming was mainly the coil smacking against other parts while loose. It busted near the point where it screws into the motor. I felt like I lost some compression as it drove sluggishly once broken, although I only drove for a very short time. I also thought I may have smelt a slight burning scent, or maybe oil, but didn't smell anything once I got out of my truck. Any problems I should look forward to other than simply replacing this coil?
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