A couple of times recently my brakes have been very hot when I stopped. I took it to my mechanic who took it for a drive and then used an IR thermometer to measure the rotor temps. The front right and rear left rotors were at least 40 degrees higher than their opposites on the same axle. He believes it is probably the master cylinder..
View 8 RepliesI use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
View 14 RepliesMy heater stopped working.
View 9 RepliesI don't know if this is even a problem or not. Do the front brakes get hot on the one ton dualy? I wouldn't have even noticed it except when I went to the car wash, when I sprayed water on the tires and rims to wash them, I noticed steam coming off the front brakes. Think I have a problem or not? I can put it into "drive" and it rolls freely. It doesn't feel like anything is sticking.
View 3 Replies1999 F-250 4x4 PSD, 160k miles. Sometimes, at low speed like 5mph or less, when braking the brakes are almost gone and one can feel the stiff pedal coming back up when stepping on it hard to make the truck stop. The ABS is set to not kick in at this low speed, right? Truck throws no code and shows no warning lights (ABS light in dash works with key on-engine off) when this happens. Pull the related ABS fuse and problem goes away. Where to look?
View 11 RepliesRead alot about a brake sticking and changing out the caliper or the pin or the hose but did not come accross a problem with all four sticking. When I leave in the morning brakes are fine and once the heat up all four get supper hot when I get to my destination and the truck is very sluggish, the brakes are sticking and it is all four. Changed the calipers on all four but did not work. Changed a brake line (not hose) that was rusting out, did nothing. I am leaning towards the master and its valve because all four are effected.
View 14 RepliesLast week I noticed my fogs stopped working. So I figured there may be a chance that they were burnt out. Hooked them straight to a battery and they work. Next I checked power at the plugs and no power. Checked the fuse and blown. The only fuse I had on me was a 25 amp fuse. Big mistake. Smoke started coming from the fuse box (palm to the forehead). Well it didn't blow the fuse but still nothing. I got power at the headlight switch and started tracing wires. From what I had read there is relay but it is inside the fuse box? Is this correct. I'm trying to pin point where the problem lies. There aren't any burnt up wires behind the fuse box and now I'm at a loss.
View 7 RepliesBackground : 2002 Excursion 7.3L, 320k miles ...
AC was working OK, but not great. Then AC stopped blowing cold at all. Checked pulley, gap was huge, but pulley bearing was completely destroyed. Like, 1/2" wobble, half the ball bearings in there. Amazed it hadn't seized. Replaced pulley, set air gap to bottom of the spec.
Air seems to blow kinda cold briefly, then fades to no cooling after a couple minutes. Same at idle or moving. Front and rear both not cold. Lines in engine bay are cool, but not real cold
Compressor body feels hot, like...right at that threshold of too hot to touch. Don't have pressure gauges, but will buy/borrow some and take some readings.
What would symptoms of a clogged orifice tube be? What would symptoms of a clogged condenser be? If low on r134, I could refill, but any tips on chasing down leaks?
All my door locks stopped working in my 2008 F250 Crew Fx4. Locks do not work from a driver or pass. door, key fob, or door keyless pad. When you hit any of the switches you can hear a relay type sound in the SJB.
There was some sort of failure because we could smell it. But I am not sure if it was the SJB that failed or a wire between the SJB and the lock motors.
Looking for a wiring diagram of the door lock circuit? And/or know how to troubleshoot to find the bad wire or if it is the SJB that failed.
Ok I've done some searching and reading and really haven't found a answer. My 99 f250 sd 4x4 v10 with a automatic transmission stock hubs with ESOF. I checked the fuses under steering wheel. All good. Showing no error codes. Replaced vacuum lines. I've been driving it for some time only using the lock outs on the hub. Whats different is there is no light on dash stating 2wd, 4wd or low. And when manually locked they don't move in snow. new hubs? I don't really care about switching with ESOF I just need 4WD for plowing!
View 11 RepliesThe 4wd on my 2000 f350 has just stopped working? I have used it a few times since getting it a few months ago and then last night I was going to play paintball in the woods and the 4wd would not engage? when i put it in 4wd it would act like the truck is in neutral and then it lurched forward? The front hubs have the option on them to turn, but I never had to turn them before and they do not move when I tried to? What could be causing the 4wd not to function?
View 4 RepliesMy Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
Driving home from work yesterday, dry roads, truck unloaded, running around 50mph, had a dog almost run out in front of me. I hit the brakes hard and came to a stop. But, I noticed that my brakes did not lock up the tires. This was a bit of a surprise. My former 2003 Cummins would easily lock them up. Is my truck an anomaly? Can lock up your tires during a hard/panic stop?
View 14 RepliesGot a POP noise when I hit the brakes. I have to apply some pressure for it to make the sound. Does it once when going forward. Doesn't do it again until I drive a few minutes, then it does it again.
If I go back and forth between reverse and drive, it does it every time as I hit the brakes, but only once until reversing direction again.
Takes some moderate pedal pressure to make the noise. If I turn the steering wheel to either side, it doesn't make the noise.
I've gone over the brakes, nothing there is wrong, and besides it wouldn't go away when I turn the wheel. Nothing is loose in terms of tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, nothing.
It's not bad enough yet to be able to see movement in the ball joints when the wheels are off the ground. Is this the ball joints?
Got a problem with my F350 diesel truck's braking system. I pull a 5th wheel and last trip almost burned my breaks up coming down long hill due to having no breaks on the 5th wheel. Had a problem early on with the lack of trailer brakes and module was replaced under warranty. Bought a new module this time and it did not fix the problem. Have braking power when I use the module brakes (Hand) but not when I hit the foot brakes. Have checked the system with a meter and have good voltage with hand break but not with foot brakes. Have a good meter (voltage) read with hand breaks and faint read with foot brakes applied. Also have a faint pulsing read on test light with no brakes at all just key on.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems I was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly. Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles?
Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If I let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on. It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. The wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
I have a 2013 F350 Lariat. Recently, the backup camera has stopped working about 1/3rd of the time. When it doesn't work, a yellow triangle icon appears on the screen with " Camera unavailable. See dealer." The dealer has checked it, twice, and is unable to locate the problem.
View 13 RepliesThe whole trip over here weren't any problems. Yesterday I went to the store, started fine. When I walked out of the store, the truck turned over 3 times and just stopped. After that all I got was a click at the relay on the pass fender. I have good batteries. I have verified current through the fender relay down to the starter but I cant get it to turn over. Another thing to note is the solenoid got so hot it burned me.
This, I have never run into. I replaced it today with a new starter with no luck. Could I have a bad, "new" starter? What would cause the solenoid to generate so much heat just sitting there? The longer it stayed connected, the hotter it got.
My truck is a 2011 F-250 6.7L. It's at 91,000 miles, and I have the PremiumCare extended warranty.
About 3 weeks ago (1,000 miles ago) I took my truck in for an A/C problem. The A/C quit blowing cold air. They diagnosed the problem as something inside the dashboard was broken and they needed to completely remove the dashboard to fix it. The repair worked, A/C was back, and I was good to go.
Last week my Satellite Radio and Navigation stopped working. I was getting a "NO GPS" message on the navigation screen and an error on the Satellite Radio screen saying something to the extent of there was no connection with the satellite antenna. I wasn't sure if something failed or if the dealership screwed something up during the A/C repair.
I booked an appointment and took my truck into the dealer that's 50 miles away from my house. The dealer took the truck, put me in a rental, and I came home. As soon as I got home I got a phone call from the dealer saying a cable had to be replaced and they were taking care of the parts and labor. When I asked him what caused this cable to fail (was it a defect, or was it damaged during the A/C repair), he said he didn't know. But, I'd need to pay for the rental car for the day and that they would make me another appointment to do the installation. At that point I asked the service adviser to have their manager call me ASAP. Two hours later I still haven't gotten a call.
Am I wrong to think that it's not fair that I pay for this rental car? My thinking is if it's defective it should be replaced and I should be put in a rental in the meantime. I paid additional for the rental car coverage to include any repairs and the first day of the repairs... but If it's the dealer's screw up, they should be bending over backwards trying to correct the issue and at least pay for the rental car for the day...
2001 F250 SD 7.3 PSD Was doing a trailer towing road trip too and from Montana. On the way back the cruise control stopped working. Checked fuse #28. Looked fine. Attempted to do a self test on the cruise control. Holding the OFF button did nothing. Never went into diagnostic mode. Button ? A different fuse?
View 14 RepliesLast week our F250 suddenly stopped running. We had it pulled to the house, about 2 miles, and found it was the AC Compressor Clutch (took belt off and it started fine) Today we replaced the AC Compressor and now it wont shift into drive. Reverse is fine, fluid is fine and there is no warning lights on.
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