Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Brake Lights Would Come On When Slightly Touch Pedal
Oct 14, 2014
So, before I noticed a problem, all I had to do was a slight touch to the brake pedal, and the brake lights would come on. Now, they MAY just quickly flash and won't come on unless I really push hard on the pedal, such as at a complete stop.
I've noticed some issues with trying to lock-in 4W-LOW now too, and I know the brake pedal has to be pushed to engage 4W-LOW. Never had problems before now. 1999 F250 Superduty ...
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I have a 2002 f350 7.3 PS that every time I touch the brake pedal it blows the #6 fuse(trailer tow brake/turn signal). I need to use my trailer.
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I'm having issue with my brake lights. Checked for voltage and nothing. Checked the fuses under the dash. Checked the brake pedal switch and have power going out when the pedal is pressed. Is there a relay or something somewhere else? 1999 f250 7.3 superduty....
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I replaced all the brake pads on all 4 wheels. Pretty standard procedure. I now have a very spongy brake pedal. It stops but the pedal will be almost to the floor. I did not break any of the lines open during the procedure just used c-clamp to spread the calipers. No ABS light. Have a Snap-On power bleeder and bled the system several times with no change. Checked the power steering fluid level and inspected entire system for leaks.
2002 F-550 V10
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Just got a 99 super duty and I have a very weird problem. When stopping i feel a very strong pulsing from the brake pedal. I assumed warped rotor. but the strange part is when I hit the brake the cab dome light comes on. How to locate this pulsating?
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Test drove an 08 V10 today. Brakes seemed to work fine and didn't lock up but I felt no pulsating in the pedal and heard no chirping of the tires like most ABS systems do. Is this normal? Anything special to look for in used late model V10s?
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When I parked my truck at work this morning, I pushed the parking brake pedal down like always, but it popped back up. I didn't pop all the way back up, it stayed down about 1/4 of the way. Several tries yielded the same results.
Since I'm at work, I didn't have any time to crawl under there are investigate. I'll do so tonight when I get home, or maybe tomorrow. Kinda sounds like the locking "teeth" mechanism may be misaligned?? Since it doesn't come all the way back up, I'm hoping the mechanism isn't totally broken.
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I was driving, Iput the brakes on then suddenly I heard a loud bang and brake pedal went all the way to the floor. I knew there was something wrong with the brakes, parked went and checked the passenger side rear brake caliper was ripped off which made a hole through my rim and also ripped off the brake lines. I need to get the part but I don't know what its called. See the pictures....
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The other day I got in my truck and started down the driveway when I realized I had no brakes, I slowly backed up and parked it. I haven't driven the truck for approx. 2 weeks and it seemed fine then. The master cylinder is full, there are no signs of leakage from wheel cylinders or lines. Today I unscrewed the left front zert and no fluid came out. My pedal goes all the way to the floor.... Whats going on, and if its a easy fix?
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I don't know whats up with my new truck, its a 04 f250 scsb, 4x4, 5.4l with 61k orig miles on it. Truck will stop on a dime, has NO pedal sinking, but it takes about 3/4 of the pedals travel to apply pressure to the pads and have the truck stop, sometimes if I push the pedal down then let up and push it again the pedal wont travel as far, I just flushed the system today, no air in the lines, is there a bleeder on the abs? truck has 4 wheel abs...
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First, I am fortunate that I was only going 25 mph when some turned in front of me causing me to slam on the brakes. The pedal went to the floor, but did slow the truck enough to miss the jerk. Had I been on the highway, it would have been very bad.
Anyway, what I found is still hard for me to believe for two reasons. It find it hard to believe it failed, but more important that I am getting the last national inventory of 2 of the 3 lines in this picture (according to my Ford dealer).
The three lines are almost directly under the front end of the master cylinder between the block and frame. These are as I found them. The larger one goes to the rear feeding both rear brakes while the two smaller run to the front brakes. The spring looking part below is just a plastic protector. The line which failed goes to the front left.
I think anyone with a 2005 SuperDuty which uses the same or similar parts should take a very close look at the flex sections. The parts I have ordered are: 6C3Z-2B523-BA, 6C3Z-2263-BA, and 6C3Z-2264-BA (rear, right, and left).
How long a manufacture is required to maintain inventory? I thought 7 years, but someone suggested 17. I'm at 8 years, but I would have expected more than 1 each of the fronts to be available. Do they changed parts on the '06 or '07?
My 350 spent 2 winters in the Chicago area and has been resting in Florida since 2006. No work was done in this area, but the closest work was the main fuel pump (frame mounted) replaced 2 years ago, but that is almost 2 feet to the rear.
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We are putting a truck back together after converting a single cab to crew cab and struck a problem. Every time you hit the brake pedal the door locks continually try to lock themselves. Any clues as to the problem or what to test to find out for sure?
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my dads front drivers brake caliper was dragging so last Thursday he had the local Ford dealer install a new one WHY i don't know since i always work on everything of ours plus my friends Fords. Today he said he pushed the brake and it went to the floor then he let up and pushed it again and they worked?? I haven't looked into it yet but the dealer cant look until Friday morning so my dad asked me to do it today after work..... what should i check for? leaking brake line, maybe air in the system still?
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2013 F250 XL with factory towing package.
My camper and boat trailer do not have turning signal or brake lights when plugged into the round seven pin trailer connector. I have tried both the connector in the bed and under the bumper. I've also connected the trailers to other trucks and the lights work fine so I know the problem is in my truck.
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I noticed last week that my brake pedal seemed more spongy than usual. The next day the pedal would go down about half way to the floor before I had pressure. And then the next day the pedal would go straight to the floor. Pedal comes back up once released. I still have brakes pressure about an inch before the pedal bottoms out. Its been like this a couple days now. The vaccum pump works fine. I'm gunna try bleeding the brakes on it tomorrow.
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The truck in my sig. makes a clicking noise when it's in the park and I press the brake pedal down. The click is coming from somewhere up high in the steering column. It doesn't make the clicking noise in any other gear only in park. Might be normal but I don't remember hearing it before?
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My question is this...when my foot makes contact with the brake pedal there is about a quarter or half inch of "space" where I can push the pedal forward before you can feel whatever the pedal pushes against make contact and begin applying braking.
This dead space area will always activate the brake lighting but until you reach that next part under the dash somewhere no braking occurs.
I am quite used to driving my 2010 and this doesn't occur....can not remember if the 99 has always done that and i just realized it or if this is a new issue.
Brakes and stops great with and without load. No issues otherwise. Pedal pops out quickly and normally when taking your foot off.
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I have a 2005 F-250 4x4 and recently i noticed a grinding noise while driving and then when I come to a stop I hear a clunk and the grinding stops. It sounded like it came from the driver side wheel so I changed the wheel bearing assembly. About 3 days later it started again. Now it sounds like it's coming from both sides. I am at a loss. The hubs are unlocked. It's hard to describe the sound but to me it sounds like 2 gears with a large chain rotating on them. I hope that made sense. The clunk can be felt in the brake pedal.
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I don't know what's going on maybe some body can shed a little light on this. If you hold the brake pedal down for a long period of time you can feel the pedal slowly go to the floor. So no problem I'll change the master cylinder bleed everything brand new fluid. Don't drive it much we let the sister in law drive it we'll I jump back into it the other day to go to Home Depot and once again I notice it still does it. Could the hydra brake booster be bleeding by or what's else could be causing this it's driving me insane. I really can't imagine the hydra booster causing a problem but it's new to me. I was thinking about bleeding the brakes again thinking there maybe there's air but I have run 2 bottles of brake fluid through how much more??
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I have a 2001 F-350 Diesel 4x4 crew cab 8ft bed dually 7.3 diesel 6 speed. The issue is that the parking brake pedal is extremely hard to push. One day it pushed down and ratcheted into a locked position as normal and the next day I couldn't push it more than an inch down. I have rear disc brakes with internal drums in the rotors for the parking brake assembly. I replaced the shoes and hardware (which were fine) and I still have the same issue. I removed the front single cable from where it splits into the two rear ones and the foot pedal depresses smoothly and with the touch of a finger with no load on it. What else is it? The only other thing is one of the rear cables unless I am missing something?
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So I went to start my truck today (1999 f250 5.4), it hasn't ran in a couple days due to -38C weather. When I started it today, it started rough(understandable in this weather) but my abs light and brake light came on and will not shut off. It ran fine the last time I used it, but now the lights came on. What may have happened.
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