Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Blower Fan Loss With Plow Use
Mar 18, 2017
15 f350 gas xlt with 8.6 Western proplus straight blade. I noticed that while only applying throttle and fully angling the plow ,the hvac system turns off and then on again and the dashboard lights also turn off with the message system also going blank. I've brought it back to the body builder, twice, that installed it and they don't acknowledge a problem. The only answer I got was it's probably a bad battery. The funny part is you can angle it all day while it idles but as soon as you apply throttle and fully angle it left or right it cause the loss of power to certain accessories. When it does this it also causes a relay to click under the dash panel on the drivers side .
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what I need to do to remove a plow kit on my truck? I bought the truck with the kit already on it and I figured I could get some $$ for it, but I gotta get the darn thing off! I'll be posting pics soon. It looks like it'll come off easy by removing a few bolts, but with my luck I'll completely ruin something.
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ust bought a new to me 01 f150 7.3. Looking to put a plow on it. I cant figure what these brackets are for, they under the front bumper visible through the wheel well. Thinking maybe for a plow?
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So I've had this WAAG brush guard laying around for a few years and figured it was time to do something with it. Of course it was bought with no mounting brackets. I had found a lower gear from a Fisher MM1 plow. Tossed the in the truck and started from there.
Broke out the cherry picker and started lining stuff up. Drilled some holes and bolted it up. It's all bolted up but I still need to take a piece of 2x3 angle and weld it to the lower plow mounts to tie the bottoms together and create a step.
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I just finished putting a 7.3 back in one of our f450 plow trucks today, so then i moved onto our 2001 F250 5.4 plow truck. The dipstick tube was rusted in half so i pulled on the remaining half to get it out and put in the new dipstick. However, it broke off at the block. So now i cannot see how to get the rest out with out doing a lot more work. I haven't removed the splash guard yet but will i have to remove the manifold , the oil filter base, or both?
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So I have a 2004 F250 5.4 regular cab 4wd long bed that was bought used with a very heavy Western Pro plow. The truck only has 70K miles and it is equipped with the snow plow package and heavy GVWR package. Since I had no use for the plow, I removed it and all mounting hardware as soon as I got it home. The truck wanders and bounces down the road terribly.
It is tiring to drive and requires total attention. Reading posts on here about "wandering" left me thinking my steering box was probably worn out. I replaced this without any change. I figured that I must have other components needing fixed, but had not had time or money to dig deeper yet.
Now, this morning when leaving work, the truck had accumulated nearly an inch of very heavy, wet snow with a small layer of ice on the hood. Driving home was as if I were in another vehicle. Everything was tight and much less "hopping" when hitting small bumps. So, this leads me to my question. Do you think that simply adding some weight back to the front end, i.e.,: bumper, or brush guard, could be my answer? Or, is this simply covering up a more extensive problem?
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I have an f350 and it came with the snow plow package, does this make the front end of the truck sit higher? I was thinking about getting a leveling kit for it but when i measured there is only about 1 inch difference between the front and back.
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Ok, I have had this problem a couple of times before, generally when it is wet and cold outside and the result is a very dead battery. The heat/ac blower fan continues to run after the truck has been shut off and the key removed. I believe that it even comes on after the truck has been shut off. What could be causing this?
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The blower motor went out on my 2008 F-350,? I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it out. Do I have to remove the dash? I am positive it is fried, I ran a hot wire straight to the motor and it still wouldn't come on.
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My A/C, vent fan (blower motor) keeps going in and out. Does not do it all the time, but when it goes out, it will come back on after a few moments, but will not run full speed. If you try to adjust the speed, it just cuts off again. What is causing this.
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I have a 2000 F250 and the blower motor stopped working, the a/c clutch locks in but the blower will not run. I back tracked and I have no power at the motor or the resistors, or the speed switch. There has to be a relay that is turned on by the a/c selector to power the blower circuit. I guess my question is need a schematic of the a/c circuits? Or the location of the relay?
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my blower keeps blowing even when i turn off the system, it does stop when the motor is off but comes back on once i start the truck...relay is fine.
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My blower assembly (not at the blower but in the box below it) is filling up with water. Any way to look into besides drilling a hole in the bottom of the box?
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2012 F350 Lariat 6.7
The blower motor has quit. All fuses relays etc appeared to be ok. So I tested the connector going into the motor, I saw 13.9 volts so assumed it was a bad motor.
After removing the motor I bench tested it by connecting 12volts to one side of the connector and negative to the other. It spun up.
I re-tested the motor supply connector in the vehicle, it has 13.9 volts on the yellow wire, and 4.44 on the other. I adjusted the fan speed on the climate control, although the fan images on the display increased, there was no change to the voltages on either line.
I used the 13.9v connection on the positive terminal and a ground on the negative, the motor spins.
Is there a method for accessing codes that will display what is causing this failure?
So why do I have 4.44 volts at what should be a ground? Is this a bad resistor or is the climate control euchred.
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Only 2 speeds of the 4 speeds are working on my blower. I was thinking it may be the switch, but someone at the shop told me to replace the blower resistor first. I did that and still only have 2 speeds. Im guessing I need to replace the switch now?
Also, I am having problems with my heat adjustment. I have it set to warm (half way between cold and hot) and out of the blue it will start blowing hot. I turn it down all the way to cold until it blows cold air and turn it back to warm, and it will be fine for a few minutes and start blowing hot again. Vacuum problem? blend door problem? How would I go about trouble shooting this problem?
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My blower doesn't seem to blow very hard. I've been in other fords and the ac and heat blows great. Someone suggested that that I pull the fan motor and clean the blades.
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My 2002 Super Duty blower makes a gargling sound when I turn it past the lowest level. Why?
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My 2001 f350 a/c blower works better on a/c compared to max a/c . When I turn the selector to max a/c it makes more of a blowing noise but less air blows out of the vents though. When I select plain a/c it makes less noise but blows more air out of the vents. What is wrong and how to go about fixing it is 93 here today and won't get much cooler over the summer months .
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I have an '03 F250 and the second position of the blower switch doesn't work. The first, third, and fourth are all fine.
I bought a Motorcraft YH-1670 blower switch, but can't figure out where it's located?
I looked behind the glove box, but didn't see it there. I did not remove the screws to the cover behind the glove box because I wanted to first confirm where the switch is located.
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Have a 2004 F-250 and blower motor speed 3 is not working..replaced resistor pack with Motorcraft part and everything works except position 3 ....
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My Blower motor is intermittently going on and off. After messing with it for a while it seems to stay on. Motor may be going out. Not real easy to change the blower motor on this 2008. Haynes manual says to take the 2008 and up trucks to the dealer.
2008 F250 4DR 5.4L
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