Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Blower Assembly Is Filling Up With Water
Feb 18, 2014
My blower assembly (not at the blower but in the box below it) is filling up with water. Any way to look into besides drilling a hole in the bottom of the box?
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I just put a new front driver side wheel hub assembly on last week and i discovered two things. The metal plate that goes in behind the wheel hub assembly needs replaced but idk what it is and i need a new axle seals. But when i put the new hub assembly on, the abs light came on and i cant seem to figure out why? Also my front drivers side of the truck is still making a clunk noise when i hit a bump. Input on that too?
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How can you tell when your wheel bearing/hub assembly is going bad? I am hearing what sounds like "metal-on-metal" and I've already changed the brake pads, but the sound still persists. I was thinking about changing out the brake rotors since I did notice an inch long score on the rotor when I was replacing the pads. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on rotors to find out it was my wheel bearing/hub assembly all along.
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I am trying to replace the ball joint on my 2008 f-250. Does the hub assembly come off of the knuckle or do you remove the whole knuckle and hub assembly together? If you have to remove the hub assembly what is the best way?
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Ok back at this problem. When I say she won't fill... I mean I can't get more then $0.10 -$0.20 for gas in before the pump shuts off! I'v read all the tips and tricks of holding the gun upside down, tilting the gun up, changing different guns or gas stations, and even pulling the carbon canister filter blowing it out with compressed air... not one of them worked! Yes air passes through the canister but at a restrictive rate.
The only way I can get this truck to fill like every other car I'v filled is to unplug the vent line to carbon canister filter. Then I fill the F250 as fast as I want. Obviously the problem is in the carbon canister (plug up media or faulting canister solenoid) but what is the fix other then buying a new one?
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Today I noticed a leak at the heater hose assembly at the right rear of the engine compartment. It appears to have special connectors and that appears to be where the leak is coming from.
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I am not sure mine are done yet, but I was told by mechanic that they are failing and that the fronts aren't spinning as smooth as they should when up on the jack. They were investigating a sticky caliper at the time and said they believe heat from failing bearing caused that issue. I figured I'd do a little looking for parts pricing just incase. Does come with everything needed to change it? From reading, I found part # 73CZ-1104B is that the one?
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When I go to put fuel in my truck. It keeps clicking off? I have to slightly hold the trigger to put gas in it? I have tried to get the vent hose to the tank filler off, but what is the trick to getting the hose off there??
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My 2002 F250 is knocking loose the front end assembly--the gasket is worn out. So I was shopping around and was considering a beefed-up front end assembly.
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I have a 99 F350 with a 29 gallon tank. I filled it up yesterday and the total gallons was a little over 24. The low fuel light was on and the gauge only goes up to almost 3/4. I recently bought this truck. I've searched for a thread on here possibly addressing this but have been unable to find one. I've been going through possible issues in my head.... What the problem is?
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Just wondering if its normal that my front axle sits out about 1 1/2 inches further on the drivers side than the passenger, also gas pump always shutting off when filling up...
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I have a 2000 F450, 7.3, 4x4, dually, VIN 1FDXF47F0YEA44380, with 30k miles, That needs a new rear axle - hub retainer threads on axle housing are stripped (nut welded on by previous owner). This axle is a case ID F81A-4001-BK, 4.88 ratio, 11.25 ring gear, with a 41.5" spring center. I have heard that the '99-'02 axles had issues until Ford switched over to the later square housed axles in 2002 or 2003 (Dana 110, I think). Is it possible to adapt these later (2002- 2004) axles onto a 2000 F450? And if so, what would be involved?
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Ok, I have had this problem a couple of times before, generally when it is wet and cold outside and the result is a very dead battery. The heat/ac blower fan continues to run after the truck has been shut off and the key removed. I believe that it even comes on after the truck has been shut off. What could be causing this?
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The blower motor went out on my 2008 F-350,? I can't for the life of me figure out how to get it out. Do I have to remove the dash? I am positive it is fried, I ran a hot wire straight to the motor and it still wouldn't come on.
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15 f350 gas xlt with 8.6 Western proplus straight blade. I noticed that while only applying throttle and fully angling the plow ,the hvac system turns off and then on again and the dashboard lights also turn off with the message system also going blank. I've brought it back to the body builder, twice, that installed it and they don't acknowledge a problem. The only answer I got was it's probably a bad battery. The funny part is you can angle it all day while it idles but as soon as you apply throttle and fully angle it left or right it cause the loss of power to certain accessories. When it does this it also causes a relay to click under the dash panel on the drivers side .
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My A/C, vent fan (blower motor) keeps going in and out. Does not do it all the time, but when it goes out, it will come back on after a few moments, but will not run full speed. If you try to adjust the speed, it just cuts off again. What is causing this.
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I have a 2000 F250 and the blower motor stopped working, the a/c clutch locks in but the blower will not run. I back tracked and I have no power at the motor or the resistors, or the speed switch. There has to be a relay that is turned on by the a/c selector to power the blower circuit. I guess my question is need a schematic of the a/c circuits? Or the location of the relay?
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my blower keeps blowing even when i turn off the system, it does stop when the motor is off but comes back on once i start the truck...relay is fine.
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2012 F350 Lariat 6.7
The blower motor has quit. All fuses relays etc appeared to be ok. So I tested the connector going into the motor, I saw 13.9 volts so assumed it was a bad motor.
After removing the motor I bench tested it by connecting 12volts to one side of the connector and negative to the other. It spun up.
I re-tested the motor supply connector in the vehicle, it has 13.9 volts on the yellow wire, and 4.44 on the other. I adjusted the fan speed on the climate control, although the fan images on the display increased, there was no change to the voltages on either line.
I used the 13.9v connection on the positive terminal and a ground on the negative, the motor spins.
Is there a method for accessing codes that will display what is causing this failure?
So why do I have 4.44 volts at what should be a ground? Is this a bad resistor or is the climate control euchred.
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Only 2 speeds of the 4 speeds are working on my blower. I was thinking it may be the switch, but someone at the shop told me to replace the blower resistor first. I did that and still only have 2 speeds. Im guessing I need to replace the switch now?
Also, I am having problems with my heat adjustment. I have it set to warm (half way between cold and hot) and out of the blue it will start blowing hot. I turn it down all the way to cold until it blows cold air and turn it back to warm, and it will be fine for a few minutes and start blowing hot again. Vacuum problem? blend door problem? How would I go about trouble shooting this problem?
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So there I was doing a simple oil change and when I took the filter out I noticed the little spring on top, in the center of the big spring (oil filter adapter) cocked to the side with the little plastic piece broken.
does anybody know if I can replace just the oil filter adapter (spring thingy that goes in the middle of the filter when installed) or do I have to replace the whole filter bowl assembly? And if so where would be a good place to get this part?
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