I'm about to install a Undercover swing case and my locking cable mechanicism is in the way. I've taken everything off besides one bolt completely dead middle of the reel. I don't see how in the world you get to this bolt at all without destroying the reel. Any input?
I'd like to keep the bed lock cable in-tact so i can install it in the front.
The kid at body shop called, he has the cab ready to swap onto the 04 gas job except for the shifter cable at the trans. I have never done one either, and do not know how to take it off. I thought it was like the old trans where it was in a plastic grommet, but the cable almost looks like it is grafted to the trans. How to get the cable off the trans shift arm?
View 2 RepliesI'm working on an '05 F350 King Ranch dually, and I'm pretty sure the pb cable is stretched. I recently replaced the shoes in the pb assembly and adjusted the tension while I was in there, but it still barely holds. My next culprit sounds like a stretched cable, and I have a complete set for a new one, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one out. The link that holds the front and intermediate cables together won't pry open with any tool I have, and I've broken two drill bits trying to drill out the nub holding the front cable in.
View 5 RepliesI have a problem with an 2000 F250 7.3 6spd. Recently, the "key in the ignition" chime kept dinging even when no key was in the ignition. I read in the forums that a wire can be disconnected to stop the chime. The problem is that after I re-install the cylinder lock, I cannot move the key to the off position to remove the key. I can rotate it to start and run, but it won't move backwards to the off or acc position.
The truck has this little lever that normally needs to be pushed to allow key to be released, but even after pushing that, turning the steering wheel back and forth, and messing with the tilt, I still can't get the key into the off position. I have removed the cylinder and it looks good. It rotates properly and I can remove the key, but only when it isn't installed. I tried replacing the ignition switch, but the lock cylinder still doesn't move.
I have an 04 F250 that I've tried swapping the lock cylinders from the 04 to the 00, but it still doesn't turn. What might be the cause/fix? Also, the 2000 F250 has a intermittent chirping/squeaking sound under the dash that happens even when the batteries are disconnected - might this be a malfunctioning vacuum motor? It happens even though the truck hasn't been driven for a week.
I bought my 2000 F-250 CCSB a while ago and it came with 2 keys - one for the ignition, and one for the doors/tailgate - may not seem like a big deal, but it annoys me to no end.
From my understanding, the truck had previously been stolen and had the driver's side lock punched, and then something happened to the ignition lock to where it had to be replaced - hence the different key. I finally got around to replacing all the locks so that I'd only have one key. I started with the doors, then moved to the ignition (which I thought would be the easy part). I've replaced several cylinders before and I know it should be simple, but for the life of me I can't get the cylinder out!
I push the detent, turn the key to run, wiggle and pull.... nothing. I can feel the detent push in, and the cylinder will move a little, but it won't come out. I'm not sure if this is something that just happens sometimes and there's a fix for it, or if I'm in a unique circumstance and my column was somehow damaged during the theft and that's what's causing it.
How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
View 6 Replies1999 F-250 ... How does one replace the emergency brake cable? The cable in the '99 F-250 I recently bought broke.
The cable was sticking when I got the truck. I like to use the emergency brake every time I park. The previous owner(s) didn't use the emergency brake and the cable had frozen up.
I tried using it every time I parked. I could tell it was frozen, but I was hoping it would loosen up. It held a little bit when I used it; but soon it just broke.
I have a 1999 F250 super duty with the V10 engine. I purchased it when it was @111k miles. When I got it the passenger side lock did not always work and after time they both stopped. I have ready the post on how to repair them for little or no money that is not my question. My question Is there a way that I can tell if the truck had a remote for the locks when it was new and if not could I put it in the truck? Yes my wife likes that I unlock her door first but a remote would be nice when it is raining.
View 13 RepliesThe terminal (+) on the passenger side battery broke, and I see is a 1 piece cable and terminal all together.
Where to get that cable on how create a new one?
I'm re-doing the parking brake as part of a rear brake job on my 2009 F250. I need to disconnect the intermediate brake cable at the equalizer, but am having trouble. I've got slack in the cable, but can't push hard enough to get the swaged cable end to move within the connector that's between the equalizer cable and the intermediate cable.
Is there a special tool or some trick to this? If push comes to shove, I can cut the connector (assuming I can get a replacement), but would rather not.
Also, any particular trick to disconnecting the cable to the parking brake lever at the wheel? With that huge spring between the cable bracket and the end of the lever, I haven't been able to move the cable end enough to disconnect it from the lever. Since I don't have the intermediate cable disconnected, could that have something to do with it?
When I hook my battery cable up to my battery when negative cable my truck automatically starts turning over without the key in it what could be the problem
View 1 RepliesDriving home from work the truck suddenly would not shift, it felt like the clutch was not completely disengaging. The only way I could get it home was to start it in gear but the truck was obviously lunging, did that once and limped it home in 2nd down back roads.
Master was clearly leaking inside the truck but not a lot. Slave was dry as a bone, put all new hydraulics in it, it feels like I have more on the pedal but still the same problem. Thoughts? Do I have to pump it a thousand times to bleed it, it's one of those pre bled systems.
This happened to me once before a couple weeks ago and then it just magically went away after messing with it for a minute. I'm thinking maybe my fingers on the clutch are gone or throw out bearing quit but I've had no chatter, slipping or whining. I can shift through the gears with it off or running if my t case is in neutral.
Im replacing hydroboost and master cylinder and I cannot for the life of me get the master cylinder pushrod (which must be reused) out of the hydroboost unit. There is a spring, retainer and pushrod that I cannot get to release.
View 2 RepliesI'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
View 1 RepliesI have replaced the cruise control cut off switch and post-recall pig tail twice in two years for fluid leaks. Whats the deal do they all leak?
View 6 Repliesmy 2000 f550 master cylinder reservoir plastic is cracked from vibration and it would be good to know if it can be replaced separately than having to purchase a new complete unit.
View 2 RepliesI just installed a new positive cable set for the dual battery's and the starter checks out good.
View 5 RepliesA few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
View 6 RepliesI want to remove the 4x4 stickers on my 2014 SD box. I think it looks cleaner without them. Are they difficult to remove or does the hair dryer trick and then some Goo-Gone do the trick without a big time effort? The last thing I want to do is make a mess of the paint finish.
View 13 RepliesLooking to get rid of the step handle, I did this mod on mine and it was a direct fit...take off old liner and unbolt handle, then get a liner from a non-step tailgate and it is a direct fit:
View 7 Replies