Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Bearing Squeak And Headlights Flicker / Battery Not Charging
Oct 29, 2016
I replaced my alt. because in the morning the bearing would squeak and the head lights flicker. It was a life time alt. Put the new one in now it wont charge. Took it back and got another, same thing. Also replaced the starter relay and battery. I checked the fusible links and replaced a terminal connector. The wires look good. There is 12v on the alt lug and pins 1 and 3 on the connector with the key off. Turn key on and 12v disappears form pins 1 & 3. Also checked all fuses in both boxes. I ohmed out the wire harness from the alt back to the connectors, all good. What am I missing? This is a 99 f530 5.4l.
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OK I have 14.04 volts at the batteries with the engine running but my battery light is on. I had the alternator checked off the engine and on the engine and it tests good. Shows good batteries and good charging. Is there something internal to the alternator that would make the light come on even though the alternator is charging ok? Or is there something else that would make the light come on. This is on a 1999 F250 Superduty Powerstroke 7.3.
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My alternator quit charging last night. Was pretty much a sudden onset as I was driving down the road and left off the accelerator the battery light came on and lights dimmed a bit. When I stepped on the accelerator again they bat. light went off and the lights came back up.
At idle I'm at 11.77v. I've pulled the plug on the back of the alternator and I'm getting voltage on both the red and green wires that go into the plug with the engine running. Is this correct?
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Pretty much as the title says, I'm having an interesting electrical gremlin. Ford 7.3 super crew 2002 lariat LE.
I have batteries from 2015 that are losing their charge, both of them. It's like the alternator isn't charging them. Truck will struggle to start until jump started, then she's fine.
Symptoms are:
ABS light comes on when as best I can tell the batteries aren't getting charged. Not the battery indicator.
Now that the batteries are low enough, on the instrument cluster the little light the powers the mile LCD screen dims when it's not getting power (but it's fine when the batteries have charge.)
All accessories work when driving, but I haven't been able to drive a long while on the "not charging phase" to see how low they're go.
Batteries register dead (now) because they haven't gotten charge in a while.
When the alternator IS charging or "connected" I can leave the truck idle and she'll charge the batteries, truck will start just fine on the next run (no parasitic drain.)
Driving causes this to happen randomly, doesn't happen when I'm stationary, nor do I believe it CHANGES state (so if I'm idle it won't suddenly NOT charge if it was charging before.)
Narrowed down to 2 probable things.
Alternator
Bad alternator to battery cables
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I had to replace my alternator (single unit) and after installation it seems only 1 of the 2 batteries is charging when I check them while the truck is running. What check or could be the problem?
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Took in the alternator to get it checked and they said it was good. Put it back on and it seemed like it was charging according to my volt meter (14.24-13.5 v)
Today, it's not charging. Only reads 12.2 v while running. Is there a fuse or something I need to check? Grounds? It seems intermittent.
2003 F-250 V10 6.8 liter 255,000 miles.
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for some reason my battery light flickers when im driving regular and on the highway. I have had both batteries checked and they were at 50 percent charge and both were good so therefore I assumed it was my alternator. I removed alternator had it check and it passed all test. Everything was checked at o'reilly and autozone
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I have a 1981 F100, lately when I've been driving at night I notice my headlights, dash lights, and charging light will flicker at the same time, and even sometimes my headlights will flash on and off by themselves.
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My 2011 F350 has HIDs in it. When I start the truck with the lights off everything is good. But when i put my truck into gear the HIDs start to flicker. (the switch is still in the off position.) If i set the switch to AUTO the minute i start the truck the HIDs start to flicker. The only way I can avoid it is to leave my lights in the on position and let the auto timer kick the lights off when I Park. But it takes a while and I'd honestly rather not leave them on like that.
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I have a 2000 excursion that stopped charging. The battery light is on . I replaced the alternator but it still will not charge. I have checked all the fuses. Not sure where to go from here...
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2002 f350 super cab 7.3 diesel, replaced alternator because wasn't getting charge to batts, Napa guy checked batts and determined no charge, replaced alt, still no charge, have 12v at alt post with engine running or not. My ? is, is there a fuse in here somewhere that I'm missing? Went through all fuses in fuse panel all good.
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How many Volts available at plug for charging FW batteries, and what can be don to trick alternator in to keep charging when truck batteries full, install larger wires? From alternator or truck battery, if yes which battery. 2015 F350 Lariat 200 alternator.
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Actually the previous owner of my 7.3 Dually cut the muffler out and straight piped it, it's really not that loud but too much drone for long highway hauls.
What's a good replacement muffler for a 7.3? Wouldn't mind a little bit of sound, it already has an oversized tip.
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So, my 2004 F250, CCSB, Fx4, 6.0l, truck broke the carrier bearing today. There is an annoying hum that modulates, the drive shaft has a lot of play and there is light visible at the top of the bearing. The problem is that it broke on a 550 mile trip to Franklin, TN and I need to make the return trip. Is there anything catastrophic that can happen running it this way?
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I am not sure which it is but I cannot turn the pulley by hand. How do you tell if the pulley is bad or the whole compressor? I went out to start the truck and it wouldn't start. It died so I restarted it and then I seen the smoke from the front of the truck. I opened the hood and the flipping belt was just hanging there. Is there a way to just bypass the unit for now? I wont be needing the AC till summer and that is several months away.
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How can you tell when your wheel bearing/hub assembly is going bad? I am hearing what sounds like "metal-on-metal" and I've already changed the brake pads, but the sound still persists. I was thinking about changing out the brake rotors since I did notice an inch long score on the rotor when I was replacing the pads. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on rotors to find out it was my wheel bearing/hub assembly all along.
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I have a 2008 f350 6.4 (105,000 miles) and I am randomly getting the check charging system the batterys have a standing voltage of 13.8 and 13.9-14v (read from the ecu with scanner) both at idle and under a load. I also checked the alternator and its making 13.8-14 all the batteries are tight and there is no corrosion.
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I am looking to replace the carrier bearing and (u joints while I'm in there) on my 08 F-250. I do not have access to a lift so this will be done while on the ground. Am I asking for trouble by doing this on my back?
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Have my truck in signature making a very high pitched, annoying squeak from the front end. I believe it is coming from the right side because i just took the wheel off and it has a coating of brake dust on it (the 3 other wheels are clean). Only makes the noise when turning right at speed, and goes away when i straight it out or hit the brakes. I am not very good with brakes or the front end parts.. what could be causing this noise? Could the slide pins be frozen? i know that is a problem with these trucks... but not sure if these are the symptoms.
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I have a 2008 F-450 with the King Ranch interior. Every time I hit a bump in the road, I hear a squeak in the back. It sounds like it coming from the pillar behind the door, but I can't seem to find anything that is loose or would cause this noise. I hear nothing when the window is open (from outside the cab), so I don't think it is a body mount or anything.
I've seen posts on this saying it is the back seat and I've completely taken mine out and checked every bolt and made sure it isn't rubbing on anything.
This is the 3rd crew cab truck i've had and my 2005 made the same sound, though not as frequently. My 99 also made the same sound, again not as frequent as this truck. This truck does it all the time when empty, but seems to do it a little less when loaded down, probably because the suspension is absorbing more of the bump. I can't believe this is isolated to my trucks and I am wondering to identify this noise.
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I have a 2003 F550 6L diesel flatbed truck. Last week, the overdrive button would activate by itself. I'm assuming there was a loose wire so I taped the button to keep the overdrive off. Two days later, the overdrive came on while the button was pressed in and then smoke came out of the steering column/lever area. I pulled over and turned off the truck. The smoke stopped after 10 seconds and I restarted the truck. The overdrive light/functionality no longer worked and the instrument cluster also wasn't working.
The next day I was driving, and the truck died at a stoplight. I got it towed home, and opened the steering column and noticed that the overdrive button wire had burned. I removed the harness clip and charged the batteries. It started but the instrument cluster still didn't work. 2 minutes later the truck died. I replaced the alternator but still it won't charge the batteries. The truck dies 2 minutes after getting a battery boost to start the truck. The instrument cluster also doesn't work. What could be causing this issue?
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