Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Battery Dying After Sitting?
Dec 5, 2015
My truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it fully and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Otherwise, we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty and something keeps draining my battery, I replaced the old one and im having the same problem. What could it be?
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My battery on my 2008 SD goes down sometimes after the truck has been setting for a few days. This doesn't happen very often, and I've checked to see if I left something on that could have put a draw on it. I can find nothing that has caused it. I jump it off and might go a month before it happens again. I've got an add-on voltmeter that show voltage when the switch is on, and it's charging perfect. On older trucks, I would simply put a test light between the positive post and the cable and checked for a draw, but on the later model there is always a slight draw to keep memories alive.
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Within the last few weeks my super duty battery has been dead after sitting a few days. Draw is around 80 ma. When I pull the air bag fuse it drops to 10 ma. Before I tear in to this thing need to know where to start.
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Having problems with a slow drain on batteries? My truck wouldn't start after sitting for 5 days.
After recharging and starting it up once, I pulled the key, and disconnected the battery harness and checked for current on all the red wires in the harness. Only one drew current. I found the small red wire on the drivers side initially draws 470mA for 1 minute, then draws 22mA. In my experience in mobile audio, 22mA can drain a battery over several days.
Has anyone out there checked their 'dark current' draw? I have chased it all over and checked all the aftermarket add-ons and it comes down to something in the factory dash.
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My issue is not with the truck starting its with it staying running. I had plugged in all the night prior and all day while at work. When my shift was over went out started fine let it run for about 20 minutes and left to make my way home. During the trip it ran fine for about 1/2 a mile and then it started idling really rough at a stop light went to go threw the light and it as though I had left it out all night with plugging it in. I went to turn on a side street because this situation was not going to end well and it died trying to turn. It would not start back up I was able to get a jump and made another 1/4 of a mile and it died right in front of my house. I replaced both the batteries this morning and it fired right up lasted about a minute and then died again. All the gauge read fine, oil level is good, and the injectors were replaced 2 years ago.
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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In the last 15k miles, I've replaced the led lights on my driver side mirror twice already, and come to see this morning: they are out again. The turn signal LEDs still work, but the parking lights don't work anymore. Passenger side is fine.
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The batteries keep dying. I can charge the batteries and drive it to work a couple of days and by the fourth day, it's dead again. Have replaced alternator, batteries, and starter and I am still having issues. Just noticed this weekend, the instrument cluster going off, coming back on, shutting off again all while the truck had been running for about an hour. I'm not sure if it is because the battery was dying or what. As soon as we got home after the instrument cluster incident, turned the truck off and tried to start it. The battery was completely dead.
I have been looking up on sites and I keep coming across the GEM Module. I want to ask around before I buy it. I have also noticed small issues with my 2000 Excursion. Back windshield wiper starts up upon the vehicle starting. Goes a few times and stops. Not sure if this is the same type of issue as in the GEM Module.
2002 Ford F350 7.3l Diesel with 148000 miles
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I drive a 2002 F-250 7.3l and have been having a lot of issues. The most recent one is that my truck won't crank unless I've had the block heater plugged in. Like I said in the title, the batteries are supposedly fine. They've been tested by a mechanic and Advanced Auto Parts. But when I crank the truck, it will only turn over for 10 seconds or so before it loses enough juice to even turn over. So it's kind of cold, but only 40-50 degrees, so I didn't think the truck would have that much of a problem starting. I'm wondering if my issues are a combination of an electrical problem and a heating issue.
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I have a 2016 F-350 with the 6.7L diesel in it. Truck has 10,000 miles on it now.
Since about 3 days now it's giving me grief at idle, e.g. sitting at a red light. The idle is very inconsistent, I can see it on the gauge and you can also hear it rev up then slow down. When the idle rpms drop down (below the 500rpm mark) the whole truck shakes for a second then the rpms come back up. then drop down, back up,... and so on. It does it regardless of gear, it's more pronounced even in P or N.
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This is an update on an older post I took the truck to a repair shop and had it checked. They said 5 of the 8 glow plugs were not working and #3 injector was bad.. They replaced all glow plugs and the #3 injector I brought the truck home and parked it about a 20 mile drive home running fine when I got home. When I started it the next afternoon it was missing just as bad as before the work was done. After it gets warm runs ok best I can tell. What it could be? If the orings on the injectors are bad would it run ok when it warms up? Going to take it back to shop but not sure they know whats wrong by the way the mechanic talked. What to do next they have checked the wiring or at least said he did. It does ok when the oil warms up new hpop and I have checked the oil level and it was ok the hpop and eng. What else to do?
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I was sitting at a red light and accidentally let out on clutch and stalled truck. The clutch petal hit the floor and I had to pull out of gear. Petal will come back up if you get it started up with foot but cannot change gears when running. Changes thru gears easy when not running.
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I noticed my 16 ccsb 4WD lariat 6.2 was slightly leaning to one side in a parking lot yesterday. My driveway at home is dirt and far from level so I would never notice at home. So before I pulled out of the parking spot I got my tape measure out. I've got 41.5 inches from ground to top of wheel well on the drivers side rear. On the passenger side rear I've got 42.25 inches from ground to top of wheel well.
So darn it the truck is 3/4 inch leaning to the driver side. Is this normal? I can understand it not being exact to the millimeter however 3/4 inch seems to me like a lot of tolerance. The bed was empty when i measured and Air pressure in both rear tires is 70psi. I did pull a load with about 2,000 pounds tongue weight the other day however that shouldn't make any difference.
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The last couple weeks my excursion had started to have a stumble and smoke white ate the first startup or after I let it sit for a long time. I did get progressively worse. I noticed the hpop line to the driver side head was leaking from the fitting so I rebuilt the boss fitting and now it's not leaking but when I started it up this morning it did the same thing.
If I give it throttle it clears up pretty quickly but if I let it just idle it will put white for probably 5 minutes. I have no codes showing when I looked with the scanner I don't see any other oil leaks and I don't smell a fuel leak.
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2001 Ford F350 V10, 220K in crap condition
First of all on the left side 2 of the coils were so withered the rubber separated from the bolt and were loose. Without any tools I was able to remove 2 coils. Typically there is the hole and several inches inside hole is where the spark plug sits.
On cylinder 4 the spark plug is on a funny angle and is level with the hole or possibly poking up above the hole. Tried sticking the ignition coil over the spark plug but it wasn't correct. Leaving it alone until my cousin can take a look. Spark plug was tight but I didn't put a ratchet on it.
Wondering, is this the infamous spark plug blew threw the cylinder thing. Wish I would have taken a picture (I will next time I'm with truck).
Had codes for misfires on 4 cylinders but that was with 2 coils unplugged (way I got truck at auction)....I replaced 3 of them (1/2/6).Cleared codes...4th cylinder remained unplugged....And the only code I got after letting truck idle for 10 minutes was something about ignition coil D (which would line up with cylinder 4 I think).
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I have a 2003, F250 SD, 5.0 with a weird problem no one can figure out. Now it doesn't matter what time of the year it is but after the truck sits a few days when I go to start it up it run roughs. Sometimes for a few seconds sometimes a few minutes then it "straightens" itself out. Recently it took almost a day to fix itself. No engine codes, no other symptoms.
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My excursion suddenly lost power after sitting in a long traffic jam. I have a scan gauge II set up and didn't see any signs of over heating however when I went to accelerate back up to highway speed my motor revved up to 3000 rpm and just lost power I ended creeping on the side of the road at about 15 mph and barely maintaining that. The motor was not willing to revv up. I reached a spot to pull over and shut it down for about 15 minutes and started back up and drove off with no noticable issues. I have 211,000 miles on this motor and I am going to change my coil packs, I think they have been there since the truck was sold new....I changed four of them to address a miss and have six left, I will also be changing my fuel filter. We are about to pull our camper across country....about 1400 miles..
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I've got a '03 F250 7.3L 4x4 (not sure how much info you need) with many many miles. My battery light came on a couple of months ago. Replaced a battery. Light went out for a day. Checked and replaced the alternator. Light went out for a couple days. Cleaned the battery terminals for better connection. The battery light is off when I first start the truck, but depending on what I've got turned on, lights, radio, AC, the battery light comes on with in 15 to 30 miles down the road. I had the batteries and the alternator rechecked yesterday and everything seems to be charged and charging.
- Should I replace the wiring to the alternator?
- Are there any fuses I should be looking at or for?
- The alternator is a rebuilt one from Autozone, should I get a new one?
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Battery light came on today, I figured were in need of replacement so I got new ones. Light is still on, until I reach about 1800 rpm. It goes out until truck idles down. Can an alternator do this? I always thought when they went, they went.
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Our new 2016 F350 King Ranch is suffering from a battery drain. It goes dead after it's been left for over 24 hours. This has left us stranded several times.
The truck has been at the dealership for weeks and there is still no resolution. We really like the truck and bought it because we believed it would be dependable. This is extremely frustrating.
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