Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Bad Starter Solenoid On The Fender
Mar 26, 2013
I had a bad starter solenoid on the fender in my truck I swapped it out and then my starter went so I swapped it now it is not disengaging the starter If I turn the key to the run position it starts cranking and fires right up before I an let the glow plugs cycle or anything and it won't disengage the starter I turn off the truck and the starter is spinning loud for a couple seconds till it stops no matter if it just start the truck or start it and run it for a couple minutes then shut it off. 99 7.3L ....
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My starter solenoid keeps dying. I can't use a retail chain part. They burn up in a day. Always Motorcraft and it only lasts a year or so.
Any way to test this thing to see why it burns out prematurely?
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I want to get the rear fender flares on my dually painted, they had a few scuffs when I bought it & I will soon have some spare time to get it sorted. We can't get the truck in the paint booth so taking them off seems like the ideal solution. I have had a quick look & I think it's just a case of removing the plastic liner (screws & clips) then it looks like there are some nuts up inside the steel fender, disconnect the wiring & they should come off!
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I own an '03 F250 and have had it since new. I love the truck, keep it in good condition, and plan on keeping it for at least a few more years. For some time now I've had the classic small spots on one rear fender well. The spots are getting a little bigger and look like they're going to come through soon. I'm not a big fan of fender flares, but from what I understand, that's the easiest way to fix the problem, cut the rust out/seal it, install fender flares. Is there any other way to fix the rust without repainting the whole bed? I don't like fender flares because I think they look a little weird with stock tires and also because it's only one fender that is rusting, but I'd have to install them on all four. If fender flares are the only way to go, any that are small and low profile?
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I recently had need of replacing my left exhaust manifold on a 2000 F250 4 x 4. I removed plastic inner fender well. Now I have a two pin harness with both white wires. One is white with red stripe, the other is white with black stripe. The harness is round with a locking square on one side. The harness is located about 10" from bottom of inner left plastic fender panel. It has 2 mounting pegs. Where the heck does this connect?
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I have a 2000 F-350 Dually. One of the rear fender lights is not working. Is there a way to check the bulb without pulling the inner liner to access it?
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Where I can locate rear fender flares that will match 2011 and up f450 flares? Which flares would cover the f450 front fender flares holes?
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Have a problem When i make a slight turn to the left sounds like the tire is rubbing the inner fender. Don't do it all the time. The tire is not rubbing.
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My 2001 F250 will not start (clicks). I verified its not the battery and even tried to jump start it. I have never replaced a starter- but before I do that I read where there is another solenoid under the hood somewhere. I always thought there was just the one on the starter itself.
Two questions:
1. where is that other solenoid located and should I replace that first?
2. How difficult is it to replace the starter? I am pretty handy.
The issue is that I cannot get it towed easily - I just need to get it started at least once since my plow is still installed and it's hooked up to a trailer..
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I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
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99 F250 Super Duty 5.4 has a p7147 error. Traced all wiring cant find any short. Bought reman solenoid pack # are f81p-7g391-cb with green cover my old one in trans is f81p-7g391-ba with blue cover. Are these interchangeable? Have tried to read up on pwm & nonpwm and getting confused.
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I have a 2010 f 250 super-duty and i cannot get vacuum past the solenoid mounted on top of the radiator. Ford has given me nothing but bad advice. I know i have a vacuum leak after the solenoid and need to replace the lines going to the two hubs but when i switch on the 4wd and hook up a vacuum gauge the vacuum is good up to the solenoid about 12 inches. i constantly have 12 volts going to the center lead but nothing else in the other two leads either in 4 high, 4 low, or 2wd. Am I missing something here? shouldn't there be a voltage change when i turn the switch to 4wd to actuate the vacuum solenoid to let the vacuum pass thru the solenoid? I have tried replacing the solenoid but that did not work. Also use rubber vacuum line and make at down to the hubs?
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CEL turned on this morning heading to work. Truck drove completely normal with no signs of altered performance.
Stopped by Autozone after work and they checked it with a code reader.
Came back with P0442 - "Purge Valve Solenoid"
Part sold with or without bracket.
Is this a common part to fail? How can I be sure it has truly failed? Is it acceptable to reset CEL and see if it fails again? If so, how do I reset? Where is part located?
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I have a 2006 F250 Super Duty w/ turbo Diesel. Took to dealership for "hopping" feeling when turning sharp. Was told that 4 wheel drive solenoid was bad. Where this solenoid is located? I know I can fix but want to know where it is located.
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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I have a 4r100 in my 2000 f250 7.3. I am getting a P1746-EPC Solenoid, open circuit. Does this mean this particular solenoid in the solenoid body has failed and should i replace the solenoid body?
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I was changing the vct solenoid on the driver side and I dropped a 3-4" Allen wrench inside the hole. I tool the valve cover off and can't see much down inside. Its not to the right by the cams, I think it fell down in front by the timing chains but I can't see it caught on a chain or anywhere. I drained the oil and took the filter off and looked in the oil pan with a snake camera, no luck.
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I picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
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I got this for R180000 SA RAND the turbo blow so they replaced it the start it 24v starter keeps burning so another try and he replaced the emi i try to start after i got fuel pump running but no luck how can i test to see if injectors getting power to open i got not special tools as in SA is up to ........ No smoke motor just crank ....
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We have an 1999 f-450 super duty with a cube van box that we use for pickup. About a month ago the radio and lights started to stay on, various other electronics did the same.
we found mostly it points to the gem module...was unable to obtain a new one so we found a use one. For the time being we started disconnecting the battery ( would kill both overnight ) and magically....everything was working again so we didn't bother installed the used GEM.
Now....its given Chirstine a run for her money and auditioning for a maximum overdrive reboot The starter started to turn. Took the keys outa the ignition but a few moments later it started again. Got to the point the starter wouldn't stop and we were running around the shop looking for tools to disconnect the batteries.
Its not starting the engine so the ignition should be ok, its just powering the starter motor. checked the relay and it seems to be working fine. We tried to install the GEM we bought however, it seems its not the right part and its too late to return it now so, we are trying to find a new one ( not used ) from somewhere. so the gem is bad as the radio, blower motor etc comes on and off at will but here's the kicker.... with the GEM removed...the starter is still powering itself....
Thought maybe the fuse box got moisture or something, put a heater on it to dry it out. Pulled the starter fuse, turned off...pulled radio fuse samething
so i think the fuse box is ok.
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
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