Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Bad Grinding Noise From Front Driveshaft / Differential
Nov 19, 2013
For starters I have a 1999 F-250 5.4l changed all 4 ball joints about 15,000 miles ago. I have been hearing a grinding noise coming from the front end for the last month only when I turn left and at slow speeds. I was servicing the TC so I threw it in 4 wheel to check it and it wouldn't engage until I started moving. When it did engage it was a bad grinding/ clunking sound coming from maybe the differential.
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we've had a bunch of snow this week and I've been driving around with my hubs locked in. today I noticed when I was slowing down to pull into my driveway I could hear a slight squeaking sound(sounded like a squeaky belt) coming from the front.
I verified it was coming from underneath the truck behind the engine compartment so I unlocked the hubs and went for a drive, the sound was gone. I crawled underneath and turned the front driveshaft by hand and I could hear a slight rubbing sound at the back of the pinion. The bearing doesn't have any play in and there are no leaks. What is going on? Could the bearing be starting to fail or could the rubber seal around the pinion have some grit in it causing the noise?
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What would I need to replace in order to fix this leak ?
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I was having a problem with 4wd and regreased/ cleaned hubs and when I went to test operation both fronts would engage and worked good. After a while.of testing in and out of 4wd I heard a loud clunk and looked under, the front driveshaft blew apart at the weld.the u joints dont seem to be bad so im at a loss as why this snapped. It was not a clean break and the edges looked like it had to started to tear at some part in the past due to rust build upon the inside.of the shaft and torn edge. Im lookin at 2 feet of snow expected here Tuesday, so im trying to find some answers as well as a.new shaft.
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1999 f250 super Duty V10... I am having some problems with switching out of four wheel drive. S, when I flip the switch back to 2 wheel drive everything, seems ok at first, but within a mile or two I will hear this grinding coming from the front that sounds like the gears aren't completely disengaging. The inky thing that prevents this grinding from happening is switching back into fire wheel drive and keeping it there. What might be causing it to not stay disengaged ?
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On my way to see my folks and I started feeling a vibration like driveshaft or wheel bearing between 45-55 mph then at about 75 then BOOM! Pulled over and found a pool of ATF thought my stock 4R100 just bit the dust but looking at it the fluid is coming from the front driveshaft at the Tcase. My hubs are unlocked and my ESOF is in 2HI but I assume my tcase was locked. Also since the tcase is probably screwed I'm goin to do the 271 with manual hub swap, how hard that is?
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Proper alignment and re-installation of the front spline on the rear driveshaft of my 2015 F350.
I removed my rear driveshaft recently (it slipped right out upon removal without any force or resistance), and I'm getting ready to re-install it again this weekend, but I've noticed that one of the grooves between the array of male splines on the shaft itself appears to be slightly different than the rest - it seems to be slightly wider. It even has a white-colored stripe of paint down the full length of the groove as if it were denoting it as being somehow different from the rest?
Problem is, when visually inspecting the splines on the inside of the receiving yoke (the part that the spline fits into), I do NOT see any such differences. In other words, it doesn't appear that there is only ONE way to properly insert the front splined-end of the driveshaft. What am I missing here?
Is the front splined-end of the rear driveshaft intended to be inserted into the yoke in ANY position around the dial? Or is there only ONE specific position or orientation that it is intended to be inserted or installed? NOTE: I've seen references elsewhere on-line that seem to indicate the need for proper alignment when there are multiple U-Joints, and maybe this is a part of it (?), but I'm not quite sure which U-Joints to consider or how to interpret such an "alignment".
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I've had the 450 a little over two years. Its used 95% of the time for hauling trailers, including the toy hauler. Has not given me a single problem since day one and now has around 21,000 on the odometer.
Lately I've noticed a "grinding" sound coming from the front end somewhere. It is most apparent when I'm turning at slow speeds; especially left. To describe it would be similar to worn out brake pads or maybe a wheel bearing going bad. It does it whether I'm on the brakes or not.
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TRUCK: 2003 F250 S/C Long bed 4x4 7.3 Diesel
PROBLEM: grinding noise in left front when slowing and stopping.
Starts as a howling noise, turns into a grinding as you brake and come to a stop. I feel it in the pedal and as it slows it feels like metal to metal brakes
WHAT HAVE WE DONE: Replaced both front hub assemblies (MOOG)... Replaced dust shields, rotors, calipers, pads as well as all new brake hardware.
At any speed when I brake hard it grinds and howls, I have taken out the 4x4 locking hub assembly and it does not change the situation. I am stumped!
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I replaced both front bearings, calipers, brake pads, now I have a grinding noise on the left side front stops sometimes when you step on the brakes? 1999 F350 ...
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I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
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I got a 2001 f350 got a noise in my left front wheel i know its not the wheel bearings, it only makes the noice when the locking hub is unlocked i did jack the the truck up and spun the wheel got a faint grinding noises form what seems like the locking hub so my question is bad locking hub or needle bearing holding the axle shaft??
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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Wondering what difference in tire pressure are you running front to rear. I have a 1999 CC LB 4x4 with a v10 with 180k on it and have always had to run lower on the rear with a empty bed. Most of the time I'm empty. If I don't the rear centers wear a lot quicker.
I ran KO's most of those miles and recently switch to Geolanders. The tires are 315x75x16. BTW the geolanders are doing great. A better rain tire, smoother and much more quiet. 6k on them so far and very little wear. Time will tell, I would get 55-60k out of the KO's.
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My 2013 f-250 with 6500mi. has peeling paint on the front differential and the axle.. I sprayed it with some fluid film for now.
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Rear-most connection before pumpkin, need to replace the U-Joint. I got the four bolts out at the flange but the shaft won't drop. I beat on the connection a bit, not enough to hurt though. What am I missing? How the heck do I get this apart and drop the shaft to replace the U-Joint???
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When I bought my 05 350 dually it had been wrecked, the rear diff was under the bumper and most of the rear suspension, including the back part of the rear drive shaft was in the bed of the truck. I have gotten everything back in place, and have driven the truck for a few weeks, but I knew I was going to have to replace the ujoints because there was visible damage to one of the caps. I have also had a vibration at about 45 mph. I had no way of knowing how the original driveshaft was oriented at the slip yoke so I went with best guess. Now in my research I read that if the driveshaft is not put back exactly in the same position vis a vis the slip yoke it will be out of balance.
Also if the drive shaft is dropped it is scrap, and if I have any lift on the truck {it had 4 inches when I got it} the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. Most of the answers to other drive shaft questions talk about taking things to a good driveshaft shop. No such thing here in the vast stretches of My state. I am pretty much on my own as far as building or repairing this thing. Is there any way to determine how the shaft was originally oriented? I also have some damage on the end of the yoke and will have some trouble getting the ujoint apart. Is the shaft now junk? And if I get an ebay replacement, how do I tell if that shaft is in the right orientation?
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I've been noticing a grinding coming from the front end of my 2012 f250 4x4, mostly while turning. It seems like its worse over uneven terrain, bumpy dirt roads, things like that, but I have noticed it on occasion while on seemingly smooth roads. Also a couple times while turning and lightly braking I could feel it interfere with the brakes. They wouldn't grab completely and you could feel the grinding in the pedal. I've been crawling around looking for rub marks or any indication of what might be causing it but until recently I hadn't noticed anything. Today though I found this. I'm guessing bad ball joint or tie rod maybe? Maybe just need alignment?
Passenger side lower control arm ...
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I have a 2001 f250 4x4 about 4 months ago I replaced my pass. side front wheel bearing unit and here recently about 3 to 4 weeks ago I get a grinding/ rubbing sound when ever I turn right it gets louder the harder the right turn I do not seem to notice it as much moving at speed but driving through parking lots and slow speed right turns I can hear it. I have checked everything and nothing is loose and I can not see any signs or fresh rub marks on anything. I am getting to the point of just buying a new unit and replacing the one I just replaced. What my problem could be?
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I want to and went to buy a new 2012 F350 leftover - everything is good except that Ford.com says the truck was initially put into service In September of 2012 and therefore my warranty will expire in September of 2015 instead 2016.
Dealer says it's an error and will be corrected AFTER I buy the truck, so far I have been unable to get a straight answer from Ford.
Any information about being able ot change the original date a vehicle is put into service ?
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My truck has an intermittent shake with a grinding/binding kind of noise. It seems to happen at lower speeds, generally when slowing down and turning. When I apply the brakes or speed up it seems to stop the noise.
The rubber/plastic seal on the back of the wheel hub is loose on both drivers and passenger side but I don't think that is the problem. I'm wondering if it is the u-joints or something.
The brakes look shiny and i don't see any scratches on them so I don't think there is a rock or something in there. I have the wheel hubs in the auto setting, and it is a 4x4. The truck is a early 99 7.3L with a leveling kit and 230k miles.
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