Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Almost No Brakes At Low Speed
Jan 21, 2015
1999 F-250 4x4 PSD, 160k miles. Sometimes, at low speed like 5mph or less, when braking the brakes are almost gone and one can feel the stiff pedal coming back up when stepping on it hard to make the truck stop. The ABS is set to not kick in at this low speed, right? Truck throws no code and shows no warning lights (ABS light in dash works with key on-engine off) when this happens. Pull the related ABS fuse and problem goes away. Where to look?
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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A couple of times recently my brakes have been very hot when I stopped. I took it to my mechanic who took it for a drive and then used an IR thermometer to measure the rotor temps. The front right and rear left rotors were at least 40 degrees higher than their opposites on the same axle. He believes it is probably the master cylinder..
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I don't know if this is even a problem or not. Do the front brakes get hot on the one ton dualy? I wouldn't have even noticed it except when I went to the car wash, when I sprayed water on the tires and rims to wash them, I noticed steam coming off the front brakes. Think I have a problem or not? I can put it into "drive" and it rolls freely. It doesn't feel like anything is sticking.
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Read alot about a brake sticking and changing out the caliper or the pin or the hose but did not come accross a problem with all four sticking. When I leave in the morning brakes are fine and once the heat up all four get supper hot when I get to my destination and the truck is very sluggish, the brakes are sticking and it is all four. Changed the calipers on all four but did not work. Changed a brake line (not hose) that was rusting out, did nothing. I am leaning towards the master and its valve because all four are effected.
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Seems like my truck won't move at 4x4 when getting into and out of parkings. Combination of low speed and turning feels like I am fighting the truck and need to apply more power to get it moving and then there are strange noises.
Is this normal behavior from 4x4 system? I think it is but just want to make sure that constant switching between 4x4 and 2x4 is normal. I was just to AWD cars before that.
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My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
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Driving home from work yesterday, dry roads, truck unloaded, running around 50mph, had a dog almost run out in front of me. I hit the brakes hard and came to a stop. But, I noticed that my brakes did not lock up the tires. This was a bit of a surprise. My former 2003 Cummins would easily lock them up. Is my truck an anomaly? Can lock up your tires during a hard/panic stop?
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Got a POP noise when I hit the brakes. I have to apply some pressure for it to make the sound. Does it once when going forward. Doesn't do it again until I drive a few minutes, then it does it again.
If I go back and forth between reverse and drive, it does it every time as I hit the brakes, but only once until reversing direction again.
Takes some moderate pedal pressure to make the noise. If I turn the steering wheel to either side, it doesn't make the noise.
I've gone over the brakes, nothing there is wrong, and besides it wouldn't go away when I turn the wheel. Nothing is loose in terms of tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, nothing.
It's not bad enough yet to be able to see movement in the ball joints when the wheels are off the ground. Is this the ball joints?
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Got a problem with my F350 diesel truck's braking system. I pull a 5th wheel and last trip almost burned my breaks up coming down long hill due to having no breaks on the 5th wheel. Had a problem early on with the lack of trailer brakes and module was replaced under warranty. Bought a new module this time and it did not fix the problem. Have braking power when I use the module brakes (Hand) but not when I hit the foot brakes. Have checked the system with a meter and have good voltage with hand break but not with foot brakes. Have a good meter (voltage) read with hand breaks and faint read with foot brakes applied. Also have a faint pulsing read on test light with no brakes at all just key on.
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I have a 1999 f250 super duty, that was wrecked a few months ago. I have put the truck back together with the mechanic. The front drivers side was wrecked. The power steering fluid tank was cracked and had to be replaced. Also had problems with a box behind the drivers headlight? I did hard wire it together and it fixed the problems I was having the the speedometer and the transmission not shifting correctly. Everything is put back together now but I drove it today and the brakes locked down after driving it a few miles?
Had to push the truck hard to get it back to my house, a mile or so. If I let off the gas it would come to a quick stop. It is ALL four brakes locking up. If it sits for awhile they unlock but will lock up again after driving. The truck is lifted and the ABS light has come on. It was not on before but i am pretty sure the ABS is disabled on the truck. The wires are hanging down by each tire. This is how they truck was when i bought it. Not sure what is causing the brakes to lock up.
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For a 99 F250 7.3 with 6 speed manual..my odometer goes around but the speedometer does not work at any speed. A mechanic said he thinks the problem is in the gauge cluster but I would like to know where to start troubleshooting.
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Well... my ABS light popped on two days ago. I was pulling a 6x12 trailer filled with random yard waste and other junk at the time. Not sure if that triggered it or not... So right away I changed the speed sensor on the rear diff... that is usually the cause plus it's only a 15 dollar part and 10 minutes to change out so I figured why not. The light is still on. So I go to my local Advanced Auto (where I bought the sensor from) and I get a free scan.
According to their scanner, both front wheel speed sensors AND the rear sensor on the diff (which I just replaced) are bad. Does this sound right? I've heard a low battery can sometimes trigger the ABS light too. The truck continues to drive perfectly normal like nothing happened. Brakes, speedometer, cruise, etc. EVERYTHING still works perfect. Just got that damn light on... so what say you FTE?
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So I had an ABS light going on and off on my 05 250, finally got it read, and the computer said right front speed sensor. I changed it and the light stayed on all the time then. I had someone plug it in and drive it and the left front sensor was reading nice and flat on the graph, while the right front was spiking all over the place. I then assumed I got a bad sensor. I changed it one more time and now the light still won't go off. Now what?!
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Bought my truck in April and it has basically sat in my driveway until I sell one of my other vehicles. I've started it every 2-3 weeks and let it run for about 1/2 hour each time. I've had to charge the batteries once (about 2 months ago) when they were low and wouldn't start the truck.
I've also moved it out of the driveway several times (about 50 feet - moving forward and reversing) when having to make room for other vehicles. I noticed last weekend when I started it up, there was a bit of a whine coming from under the hood ... it wasn't too loud. I didn't move it that time ... just let it warm up ... again for a 1/2 hour.
This morning I went to move it again for a service vehicle. It was cool outside (about 32 degrees). There was a loud moaning and groaning this time every time I moved the steering wheel. I sat on the street idling and the same moaning happened when I touched the brakes and didn't move the steering wheel. The steering also felt stiffer than usual (although I don't have a good feel for "normal" as I haven't really driven this truck except when I brought it home in April covering 1,000 miles ... it had no symptoms or issues then).
I'm hoping it's just from sitting so long without really being driven but I'm feeling that something is binding or perhaps there is a problem with the power steering.
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Buddy has a problem on his '03 F-450 cab and chassis. When he turns on a turn signal, everything is OK...but it goes out when he applies the brakes. Also, the brake failure light is lit up on the dash, despite the brakes being fine. These problems happened at the same time. I'm think a ground, but not sure where to look.
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My 2012 f350 6 lift when I push the brakes it pulls to the left kinda bad and the steering wheel is off to the right..
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I have a 2000 F250 SD 4x4. I noticed the other day that after driving the truck for 10 miles or more and then stopping and getting back in it feels like the parking brake is on. I drove the truck home and on my way back I smelled brakes burning but it wasn't pulling while driving or braking. When I got home I put my head in the wheel well to get a look at the brakes on the drivers side it seemed ok, but when I did it on the passenger side it was hot as Hades! It's been my experience that if the caliper is hanging up it will pull either while braking or regular driving. I just want a better idea before I go ahead and buy a new caliper and hose and tear the dang thing apart.
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I have a 2002 f350 Super duty, 7.3. After I changed out the power steering box, I did bleed the system, I have now power steering and the brakes are very spongy. Any thing to check prior to replacing the booster? I have been told the power steering is probably just an alignment issue and I should bleed the brakes.
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Tried using the search function without much luck. My brakes started squealing so I know it's time to replace. I use my 2wd 250 truck for work mainly and it has some weight on it. Most of my driving is stop and go. I use it to tow my Jeep maybe 3 times a year as well.
What are the best pads to go with? From what little I found using the search function it seems Hawk LTS or OEM from the dealer, not Motorcraft from the parts store.
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Truck pulls to the left while braking, pretty bad. So, pulled the front right wheel off thinking the pins are stuck again as last year. Bottom pin was fine, top pin pretty gummed up but not froze so I cleaned it up good, used thin layer of the good stuff, put back together and test drove........same thing. Pulls left upon braking just as bad as before. Caliper pistons seemed fine, didn't take much to compress them either.
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