Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Airbag Plumbing Together?
May 8, 2017
I'm about to pull the trigger on ordering the Firestone air bag kit for my rear. I am looking at this point to just run the hoses to the license plate and fill/deflate manually.
I am contemplating whether to run both bags to one valve or keep the sides isolated. I don't have an issue with asymmetrical loading, so the bags will always run the same pressure side to side. I don't know if body roll will be an issue if the bag are plumbed together. I am playing out the force diagrams in my head so I can see in theory what will happen in different scenarios.
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1.) I am looking though the fuse list here and can't find which one operates the "map lights" that are in/under the rear view mirror. I already pulled the cover and looked at both filaments and neither was blown/disconnected. I'll be testing for power tonight to see if I have power. However. I'm guessing that I don't have power if both filaments are good and neither map light works. Which fuse controls these? I'll be testing the fuse block and the bulb base for power to try and find the problem.
2.) I just replaced my clock spring and got my horn and cruise control back. However my air bag light blinks a few times, turns off, blinks a few more times and then stays on. Do I need to clear a stored error code in my computer for it to stay off or do I have another problem?
I'm so used to the 87-91 era trucks it's hard to "relearn" all the mechanics and especially the wiring!
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I just picked up my 2013 XLT diesel last week. I noticed the Airbag light comes on and does not go off.
It does not blink or appear to give any code, just goes off for a few seconds when i start then immediately comes back on solid. Where to look? Loose connector somewhere? Due to my work hours and weekend obligations, it is hard to schedule dealer time.
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I have a 2002 F350 7.3 Powerstroke with approximately 200,000 miles. Recently I have been having an issue with what I am told is my airbag control module heating up to the point it is too warm to touch when I am pulling a heavier load. It is located just under the dash on the center hump. I removed the black plastic cover revealing the module itself in order to determine that indeed is where the heat and smell of hot electrical equipment is originating from. It gets too hot to touch when pulling a heavy load and making the motor work...once I lighten up on it or am not pulling it immediately cools back down. If it is an option I would just disconnect it but I havent yet for fear of creating more of a problem.
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my 00 f250 has the air bag light on all the time. it does not flash it just stays solid. it was like this when i bought the truck @3 months ago. also the passenger air bag switch does not light up when you use it. is this causing my airbag light to stay on?
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My 450 has all power to lights and aux but no dash lights and only the airbag light will illuminate on the dash and the truck won't start there is absolutely any power being transferred to the starter. It only happens after rain or increasing humidity it seems.
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How do you remove the air bag on a 2014 F350 super duty. I have search every where. Nothing new on Google.
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Where this sensor is? I am trying to mount a front bar and need to know if I can drill thru the tube behind the bumper ( this is the one that is right behind the plastic trim piece.)
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2013 F250 6.2, 71500 miles. Airbag light comes on and stays on steadily, no blinks so that I can read the code. Any way before I make the dreaded trip to the dealer?
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I have a 2000 ford f450 with the 7.3. the truck sat for about three month and now it won't turn over. When I put the key in to start it only the airbag light and abs light up. when i got to turn it over I can hear the starter just click but the engine wont crank. I have checked the batteries and the starter and they are all good. i have also checked the shiftier position sensor on the tranny and it fine.
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How to turn off the passenger airbag on my 2005 f350? Also any info about using Alex pepers OBD scanner on this vehicle? I have a three way interface but cannot get it to work.
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Trying to get it off. I removed four bolts nd still having trouble.
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So my cruise quit working AND my air bag light came on... NO codes and my other steering buttons and horn work?? everything I read points to the spiral cable since the AB light is on. But the horn works?? I don't see how the pressure switch or the brake and clutch switch would make the ab light come on...
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Within the last few weeks my super duty battery has been dead after sitting a few days. Draw is around 80 ma. When I pull the air bag fuse it drops to 10 ma. Before I tear in to this thing need to know where to start.
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I have an early 1999 f250 diesel. I originally googled having the airbag light on and loss of cruise control and came up with it more than likely being a bad clock spring. So I replaced the clock spring, and it was definitely blown. I have a horn now, not sure if I did before or not, but still the light is on and no cruise control. The airbag light is flashing code 27 which I believe means the passenger airbag has issues.
So I tried turning the key in the switch for the passenger airbag to deactivate it, but it only lets me turn it 45 degrees and no light comes on. It looks like the key should turn 90 degrees but maybe I'm just an idiot. I see a lot of people with the bulbs dying and running into issues but that wouldn't explain the inability to turn the key 90 degrees. Also would the airbag light being on deactivate the cruise or is that just some other issue? For what its worth, I plugged in a code reader and no codes came up, just the flashing airbag light.
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2001 F250, 5.4, Replaced the clockspring and now my steering wheel feels very tight. After cornering, it doesn't come back on it's own, like something is rubbing. The face of the clockspring is slightly different than what was there.
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My batteries drained twice and now I prob. need new ones but with the key off I can turn the blower on any speed and the passenger airbag light blinks. I hear the clicking from a relay under the dash when I do this. I have checked for leaks in the windshield and found none . The fuse box and the GEM are completely dry. My ignition switch will pull out with the key in it . I noticed this just the past few weeks . Now yesterday my odometer speedometer quit. It did pull a code for this. Maybe it is connected maybe not . My odl light is flashing but still works. My cruise doesn't but I realize it is connected to speedometer.
2000 F350 supercab diesel....
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One of the super coils busted while driving my 2002 F250 Super Duty. I drove it for less than 100 ft. before parking it. It made a rapid "check,check,check,check" sound, which I'm assuming was mainly the coil smacking against other parts while loose. It busted near the point where it screws into the motor. I felt like I lost some compression as it drove sluggishly once broken, although I only drove for a very short time. I also thought I may have smelt a slight burning scent, or maybe oil, but didn't smell anything once I got out of my truck. Any problems I should look forward to other than simply replacing this coil?
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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