Within the last few weeks my super duty battery has been dead after sitting a few days. Draw is around 80 ma. When I pull the air bag fuse it drops to 10 ma. Before I tear in to this thing need to know where to start.
View 3 RepliesMy battery on my 2008 SD goes down sometimes after the truck has been setting for a few days. This doesn't happen very often, and I've checked to see if I left something on that could have put a draw on it. I can find nothing that has caused it. I jump it off and might go a month before it happens again. I've got an add-on voltmeter that show voltage when the switch is on, and it's charging perfect. On older trucks, I would simply put a test light between the positive post and the cable and checked for a draw, but on the later model there is always a slight draw to keep memories alive.
View 9 RepliesHaving problems with a slow drain on batteries? My truck wouldn't start after sitting for 5 days.
After recharging and starting it up once, I pulled the key, and disconnected the battery harness and checked for current on all the red wires in the harness. Only one drew current. I found the small red wire on the drivers side initially draws 470mA for 1 minute, then draws 22mA. In my experience in mobile audio, 22mA can drain a battery over several days.
Has anyone out there checked their 'dark current' draw? I have chased it all over and checked all the aftermarket add-ons and it comes down to something in the factory dash.
I have a 2003, F250 SD, 5.0 with a weird problem no one can figure out. Now it doesn't matter what time of the year it is but after the truck sits a few days when I go to start it up it run roughs. Sometimes for a few seconds sometimes a few minutes then it "straightens" itself out. Recently it took almost a day to fix itself. No engine codes, no other symptoms.
View 4 RepliesThe other day just after a lightning storm, my '02 F450 diesel's radio started playing all by itself with no key in the truck. Now my batteries are being drained severely but can't figure out why or how.
View 14 RepliesMy truck has been sitting more lately, which means up to a week without starting and running. Each time this happens I run into a dead battery. And I mean dead. I've charged it fully and then used the truck no problem.
We did a test where we unhooked the negative terminal wiring clamp and ran a meter to check for amp draw. We did this by touching the meter leads to the negative post clamp (unhooked) and to the negative post on the battery. It gives a reading of ~1.5 amps. Trying to figure out where the drain might be.
Otherwise, we'll jut pull each fuse to see if we find the electrical area drawing the amps.
My neighbor's kids truck battery drains from full charge to "no start" in 1-2 days. 1999 Ford F-150 w/ 4.6L engine. He has already.....
1) Replaced the Battery.
2) Replaced the GEM module.
3) Replaced the Turn Signal Relay.
He did all this before I looked at it....
I checked the following....
1) Truck off, doors closed, hood open... Amp meter shows 3.6 amp draw. When 1st hooked up, shows 4.2 amps... after a while drops to 3.6.
2) To isolate the draw, we pulled fuses while checking current draw at battery.
a) Under Dash fuse Panel. (Yes, with door closed) We remove fuse #15 "stop lamp switch, speed control, brake shift interlock, ABS, PCM,GEM, RABS test connector". (Really... couldn't be more stuff?)
b)Under the hood is another fuse box (drivers side). We remove Fuse #103. "Junction Block Battery Feed".
3) Found that if we remove the #15 fuse under the dash with the door opens, all interior lights flash on/off at about 1 second intervals... weird.
4) Again, another weird one... with the fuse #15 removed and door closed, the "ABS" indicator and some other indicators and dash lights are staying partially lit... not fully lit.
5) The only "aftermarket" stuff i can see is a dealer installed trailer brake system. Wiring looks professional and disconnecting it does not remove the amperage drain.
I'm hoping that one of you wizards will give me the "slam dunk"... if this happens, it must be that. Can I be so lucky? And, yes. I have my own '06 F-150 that i absolutely love. 6-cyl., manual trans, stripped down without even power door locks... my kinda technology.
If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?
My name is Linda & I own a 2008 F250 laritt crew cab , 6.4 I bought new in september 2007 .. I love my truck !!!!! but today i drained the water seperato as I always have it started and ran for a few seconds it sut itself off and now i cant get it to start
View 14 Replies2000 f350 7.3 .. I'm having a horrible time trying to figure out why my truck is draining down the batteries. I can charge my batteries over night and put hem in and the truck will run for a few hours but then it dies completely. The alternator seems to be running really hot afterward like it is being over worked. I put in 2 different alternators and 2 new batteries and it didn't fix the issue.
I then put in a new starter relay. Still having the same issue. I believe I have a short because I tested for it but am unable to locate the short. I heard if you over work the bushings in the starter they can ground out on the casing which will cause something similar to this to happen. I work in ND and had to cold start it in - temperatures the morning this all began. I purchased a new starter but don't want to put it in if that is not the issue.
I have a F350 with a V10 Triton motor. It has 186,000 miles on it. I have difficulty in starting it after it has sat for a few days. Typically I have to turn the switch off and on multiple times but it will eventually start. Once it has started it runs and starts fine if it has not sat for any long period of time.
I connected a pressure gauge to the schrader valve. Initially when the key was turned on there was no pressure. While the engine was turning over it was about 30 psi. When the engine started it remained at 30 psi. Ran the engine at 4,000 rpm and the pressure remained about 28 psi. Shut the engine off and turned the key back on the pressure showed 20 psi and remained there.
I'm thinking maybe the problem is with the fuel pressure regulator but can seem to find it. I've spent multiple hours searching online for the location of the Pressure Regulator but no luck.
2006 6.0 superduty showing low circuit codes on all 8 cylinders so i checked the FICM and it has 48v when key is on and while turning engine over. What to check next?
View 11 RepliesMy 2006 F-250 SD with 6.0 diesel has some sort of cut-out for the heater circuit, and possibly for the A/C as well. This truck was probably a fleet vehicle for the Houston Port Authority. Didn't really notice this peculiarity until it got really cold outside. If I start the truck up and let it idle for 10-15 minutes the water and transmission temperature get up to the normal operating ranges but the heater/defrost circuit does not heat up. Cannot defrost the windshield.
If I drive to the end of my driveway, about 600 feet, the heater/defroster starts putting out good heat. When driving, if I have to stop at a stoplight, or any other pause, with the truck still in gear, the heater output starts to cool down. I suspect that this feature was incorporated in the circuitry at the factory to prevent the driver from sitting still to keep warm. The truck MUST BE MOVING to allow heat or defrost to operate. The blower motor operates and it doesn't matter if the truck is in gear or not.
I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
I have a 2006 F-350. I got a code p2623 ipr circuit open. I ordered a new one and currently waiting on it. I pulled the old one and the screen has been replaced already. How often do these valves go bad? Is there anything else I should check?
View 6 Replies2007 F350 6.0 .. I let the truck sit for about a week went out to start it truck cranked right up then died now the truck wont start truck was running fine until this I wasn't having any starting problems. the codes are all eight injectors low circuit tested ficm had 48.3 volts...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2016 F-350 with the 6.7L diesel in it. Truck has 10,000 miles on it now.
Since about 3 days now it's giving me grief at idle, e.g. sitting at a red light. The idle is very inconsistent, I can see it on the gauge and you can also hear it rev up then slow down. When the idle rpms drop down (below the 500rpm mark) the whole truck shakes for a second then the rpms come back up. then drop down, back up,... and so on. It does it regardless of gear, it's more pronounced even in P or N.
This is an update on an older post I took the truck to a repair shop and had it checked. They said 5 of the 8 glow plugs were not working and #3 injector was bad.. They replaced all glow plugs and the #3 injector I brought the truck home and parked it about a 20 mile drive home running fine when I got home. When I started it the next afternoon it was missing just as bad as before the work was done. After it gets warm runs ok best I can tell. What it could be? If the orings on the injectors are bad would it run ok when it warms up? Going to take it back to shop but not sure they know whats wrong by the way the mechanic talked. What to do next they have checked the wiring or at least said he did. It does ok when the oil warms up new hpop and I have checked the oil level and it was ok the hpop and eng. What else to do?
View 1 Replies2011 6.7... My truck is throwing code P2033 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 Sensor. What is the part number for that sensor?
View 6 RepliesHave an intermittent miss I can feel when driving 2006 F250 5.4 l 4x4 stick; Freeze frame from Cen-Tech 60794 (from Harbor Freight) scanner follows.
DTC CNT 0
DTC FRZF P 0352
FUEL SYS1 OL - FAULT?
FUEL SYS2 --
LOAD PCT 25.9
ELT (DEGREES F) 186
SHRTFT 1 0.0
[Code] ....
I can operate the scanner but what these ranges should be. What might be causing the miss? This scan shows 951 rpm, I was idling along in 1st in traffic, but I have also felt the miss at 75-80 mph (about 2300 rpm) on the Interstate and at other times, with light loads in the 1500- 2000 range in town.
I have a 4r100 in my 2000 f250 7.3. I am getting a P1746-EPC Solenoid, open circuit. Does this mean this particular solenoid in the solenoid body has failed and should i replace the solenoid body?
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