Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: After Leveling Kit Won't Go Forward?
Aug 25, 2013
I have a 99 v8 with a 8" lift. I just added a front leveling (mini spring pack) to replace the lifting block (death trap). Anyways after I installed the 2" spring pack and removed the 1.5" block the truck will not go into 4wd. Did I do something wrong? I did not unhook anything. I just unbolted the spring and shocks, lowered the axle down, then installed the new springs. By the way it has the warren aftermarket manual hubs (lock or free). I can hear the t-case engaging and the light says its in 4wd.
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I had my leveling kit installed today. Bilstein 2" leveling coils, adjustable track bar, 4" rear blocks, and shocks front and rear.
I have 295/70/18 tires on stock wheels that didn't rub anywhere before. Now at full lock to the left the drivers side tire just barely rubs on the radius arm. How is that possible? I was planning on getting 35s soon when these wear out but it seems like those would rub even worse.
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2015 F350, Want to do a leveling kit. Are the spacers good enough or should I do the track bar relocation too?
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I recently purchased a 2002 F250 Regular cab long bed 2wd. I'm tired of the front end sagging so low, so I've been looking into a leveling kit. I was wondering whether I should go with 2" or 1.5" for the kit. I tow about 2000 lbs. 3-4 days a week and do not want the truck to look like it is squatting too badly. However, I really would like it too look more level.
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Put in 2.5" leveling blocks under front coil springs. Now I hear a clunk nearly every time I turn to the right. Why this might be?
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I have a 1999 F-250 4X4 7.3 lit Diesel engine. My problem is my transmission will go into reverse great no problem but it won't go forward. I have no problem rebuilding the transmission if that's what it needs, I just want to make sure there isn't a electrical issue from the PCM first?
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Have 2001 F-250 7.3 PSD, automatic, ESOF (had to replace the original hubs with Warns)have kept up the maintenance,oil, grease, ATF fluid & filter, truck has been virtually trouble free. About 2 weeks ago I decided to go across an area of the lawn, as I was going (in 2 wheel drive)I felt the tires spin a little so I stopped got out and locked the hubs, got back in truck turned t-case to 4 high. had to rock the truck out of a damp area but nothing really.
So I got back to where I came in at (in reverse about 100') stopped put it back in 2 wheel drive, tried to go forward, very difficult, sluggish, got back in driveway had to back the truck in, will not go forward at all now. Checked all fuses, rapped the the t-case motor, no codes. So I thought I'd move the ruck, have a winch that will pull it out by the barn, I could not even move the truck forward by pulling it with a winch. As I said have never had any problems with truck. Transmission fluid is good, clean no burnt smell.
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2003 F250 SC Lariat. 4x4, 6spd manual transmission, Manual hubs and manual 4wd shift. The truck shifts into 4wd perfectly. When I shift back into 2wd the transfer case stays in 4wd. If I back up it will go into 2wd.
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It seems its the 4R100 tranny non pto of course and 2wd version. I drove down the rd. after bleeding the brakes, new caliper front right, came home let it idle for about 10 min, shut her down. Went to move it about an hour later, it went into reverse no problem, then when put it in Drive it revved like it was in neutral. There was no banging, no clunking, nothing to make it seem like something catastrophic happened.
I then did a line pressure test and Reverse was fine 200 psi for sure, in drive mode however it was low like around 50 but had to rev real high to get it to 150 like 3/4 pedal and it would want to seem to go forward at a crawl but nothing more. Next I did the obvious and cheked the fluid, it was about 1/4 quart low so added a bit. The fluid did not stink and was beautiful red like new.
I then tried again... no dice same scenario. Then took off the pan, no metal chunks and virtually no dust on the magnet??? Ok so I figure maybe something with the shift valves? Took them all off and the accumulators as well, all check ***** were in place and all valves moved freely.
Now onto the the solenoid pack, checked all per manual for ohms and all were perfect reads at about 27 Ohms, except the EPC solenoid that is the big one on the pack, it should read about 3-5 ohms but this guy is about 12.5 ohms.
I spoke to a tranny shop in town and they said it would not be the EPC and that I could "unplug" the solenoid pack and It would still move forward without it but not to drive like this as line pressure would skyrocket?
Why this thing would have 200 lbs pressure for reverse and so little for forward I mean? that should mean that the pump is working great, if there was a broken something metal I figured I would hear something rubbing or banging or see some shavings? Can this be a "worn out" valve? or gasket issue?
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2011 F250 6.7L Powerstroke, automatic tranny, Electric Locking Diff
When I engage the On the Fly 4WD switch the indicator panel says "shift to 4x4H in Progress" and everything seems fine but if I am not moving forward when I shift the 4WD doesn't engage. The engine revs up but nothing happens. When I release the accelerator the transfer case bangs like it is going to rip out of the truck. In reverse it is even worse. I am lucky that I didn't gun it or I could have done allot of potential damage. All my other Ford 4WD vehicles engage immediately from a full stopped position. This is quite of troublesome because if you have to shift when your stuck in the mud, your still stuck. If I shift while moving forward it works just fine.
My question is: Does this particular model (2011 F250 6.7L Powerstroke with an automatic tranny) have to be moving forward in order for the 4WD to engage?
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Just bought my f250 and trying to diagnose the power seats. Both the drivers and passengers seats will not move forward or backwards. All other functions are working perfectly. The motor is not engaging in either direction. The tracks are not jammed. I'm thinking its a switch issue but what are the chances both have the same issue. Is there a way to test the switches? Looking for a wiring diagram showing pin outs of each wire and their function?
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I have a problem. 2002 F-350 4R100 tranny. Put a reman transmission in about 30000kms ago. pulled excellent with no problems. shut it off for night. In the morning it had absolutly no forward and a little bit of slipping reverse for a few minutes now it is totally dead. No movement either way. The OD on off flashed a few times but not anymore. Put a Genisys scanner on and no codes at all. What could be the issue?
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I have a 1999 ford f250 5.4 2 wheel drive i believe its a 4r100 transmission. auto. I have reverse but no forward gears. Ive heard this is a common problem , and on my reverse it has to hit 3000 rpm before it even tries to move and D 1 2 i have nothing only thing i hear is the engine sound changes gets deeper. Do i need a whole new transmission or is this fixable.
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02 F250 with 7.3. When I activate the 4WD, my light comes on, the A/C quits blowing out of the forward vents and goes into defrost and no 4WD. If I sit and wait a bit, the air again blows out the front vents and the 4WD engages. I figure I have a vacuum leak somewhere in the 4WD system. Is there a common place for this to happen or do I need to trace the whole system down? Also my manual hubs has never been turned and of course they won't. I know better than use a wrench so is there a easy way to free them up or just go ahead and disassemble and clean?
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I have a 2005 F250 King Ranch 4X4 Diesel and now experiencing an issue with the front seat belts
The problem is while being worn sometimes they will not let you lean forward- they act like you have a foot on the brake pedal and are locked-you have to lean back and forth several times to get them to let out if reaching for something on the dash etc..
I have searched the forum and found many issues where the seat belts stopped retracting- but my issue seems to be unique in that the seat belt will at times 'Not Let Out" when you lean forward.
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My question is this...when my foot makes contact with the brake pedal there is about a quarter or half inch of "space" where I can push the pedal forward before you can feel whatever the pedal pushes against make contact and begin applying braking.
This dead space area will always activate the brake lighting but until you reach that next part under the dash somewhere no braking occurs.
I am quite used to driving my 2010 and this doesn't occur....can not remember if the 99 has always done that and i just realized it or if this is a new issue.
Brakes and stops great with and without load. No issues otherwise. Pedal pops out quickly and normally when taking your foot off.
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My 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
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It's an 04 F350 6.8L This past winter when it was cold I would start it up and it would rock forward and bounce back as is you shifted in to park while rolling. Now that it's warmed up it won't jerk forward but the whole body shakes only at start up. As much as I like the idea of of the raw torque being so powerful the truck twists with power I don't think that's the case.
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Ive got a 04 f350 that after u shift into 4hi or 4lo when u accelerate it it makes loud clunk noise in fwd or reverse hi or lo. With hubs unlocked it still clunks. Have checked, wheel bearings, axle U-joints, and driveshaft joints all good. So I am thinking I've got issues in t-case. Popped drain plug out and wow that dex merc 4 looks nasty. So thinking I need exploded view of transfer case.
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2011 F-350 XL, I can hear a squeal coming from the front brakes when rolling forward slowly, believe the pads are dragging on the rotors. If I touch the brake pedal the squeal stops as it does when I turn the wheel. Took the calipers off and greased the slide pins and put it all back together, still got the squeal. What don't I know???
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My 2000 SD 7.3 has developed a quirk. For some reason the trans has decided to shift late in all gears. This only happens once, then resumes shifting normally. However the OD indicator on the shifter blinks from that point forward. Once the engine is shut down and restarted. The sequence starts again. Late shift, through the gears, once, then shifts normally with light blinking. Fluids are up and clean.
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