Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: After Installation Of Remote Access - Got Code 00011000?
Sep 28, 2014
I've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
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I've had the Ford Remote Access installed on my pickup for over a year now and it's worked great up until about a week ago when I changed cell phone providers from AT&T to Verizon. Now when trying to use the app I get the error code 00011000. I up-dated the app to reflect the new carrier but it still doesn't work. And yes, my subscription to the service is current. What I need to do to get this working again, with winter just around the corner I'd sure like to have this functional again. I figured I'd give the forum a shot before I resort going to the dealer.
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In my '06 diesel with climate control I'm trying to figure out why it won't blow cold air and went to the internet to get the procedure to run the EATC diagnostics. Thing is, it wont run. I have the later EATC that has symbols on the face, not words. With the truck on and climate control OFF, I've tried pressing each button together with OFF, followed within 2 seconds by AUTO and it just turns on.
Specifically the lower vent symbol plus OFF followed by AUTO and the defrost symbol plus OFF, followed by the AUTO button. Is there something I'm missing or doing wrong? Also, is there a vacuum function controlled by the aux vacuum pump and valves found on the diesel trucks that could cause this malfunction?
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Cleaning the evaporator on a 03 F250? A buddy of mine cleaned his F150 and said it made a noticeable difference. I was thinking of trying it on mine. If you have, whats the easiest access? Any recommended cleaner?
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I waned to know if I get a set of airbags for my f350 dully would it de hard to install
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When I bought my truck it didn't have the block heater installed, asked the dealership to put it on with the deal, but they didn't have one there. How hard it is to install one? Also what brand should I go with? (On my '16)
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I need to install a brake controller on my truck for an upcoming move from Ca to Tulsa. I have located the light blue wire for the trailer brakes behind the rear bumper but have not been able to locate the same wire under the dash.
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I'm looking to install an aftermarket exhaust system (cat-back system) on my '01 F-250/6.8L/V10. I'm looking for recommendations....Ideally, I'd love to find a system where I don't have to remove the spare tire, and still have a dual exhaust where the tailpipes exit on the side (aft of the rear tires).
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I have a 01 f250 v10 4x4 ... My stock hubs squeak non stop when they are engaged. I want to get a set of warns.
I am going down to napa tomorrow, looking for a detailed link, or instructions of how to install these things? i have searched but just keep coming up with people raving about how great warn hubs are!
Do I need any special tools, do I need to grease the new ones before installing?
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I've been wanting to install a back up camera on my truck for quite some time now. A month ago I backed into a steel pole in a parking garage and trashed my bumper, making me realize I need a backup camera I ordered a cheap ebay camera and 30 feet of extra power and video cable for the install.
Down the road I'll order something better but for now I'm working with a cheapo 15 dollar camera I know where I'm mounting the camera and where/how I'm running the cables, I'm just not sure how to get my head unit to switch automatically when I engage the truck in reverse. I have a pioneer double din touch screen radio as seen here on crutch field.
[URL]...
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How hard is it to install heated towing mirrors on an 01 f-250 7.3L?
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can i install a gauge cluster from a junk yard truck without reprogramming it? im not concerned with the odometer reading just need gauges. truck is a 2002 f250 sd 2wd auto gas.
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First tech post for my new truck. I just bought a hold-over but new 2015 F250 XL Supercab 2wd and love the simplicity of no unwanted options. That said, there are two features I am adding. The first is perfectly straightforward, cruise control (swap button cluster and have the function turned on by the dealer). The second is a tiny bit more involved, back-up camera, in mirror display with bluetooth hands-free (I like the simple AM/FM radio because I can work it all with gloves on).
So I basically need three things from the truck and my research has been inconclusive on a couple of things because most of the threads are for 2014 or earlier. I think I can pull switched 12V and ground (pin 1 and 4) plus reverse lights (center, or pin 7) all from the the trailer wiring harness. It appears these are not affected by the canbus load restrictions of other places to tap reverse signal (remember, XL so likely nothing in the overhead console for the auto-dimming rear view mirror). Are there any challenges with this when I do hook up my enclosed trailer or when it is not hooked up regarding the trailer brake controller/anti-sway?
I already found a good youtube video for how to route the wires so I think this is my primary challenge at this point.
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I just got a 15 f250 with the console and nav system but it didn't come with the upfitter switches.
I picked these up and got a copy of the .pdf for the installation, but I'm finding it hard to follow for where the relay and box should install. I ran the wire up to the upfitter switch location and can even find a nice spot to connect the grounding wire.
I can't for the life of me figure out where the box installs and where the wiring harness taps into the main harness. Need a photo of where your box is installed and where it taps into the main harness?
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Earlier this week I pulled out my right axle shaft and found the outer portion of the Spicer two piece seal attached to the axle, the part number on the seal is 52148. The axle tube is dry, no signs of the seal leaking. I need to remove that seal from the shaft to install a new outer dust seal. Can that seal be removed with a 3 jaw pulled then get reinstalled, or can I get a new 53148 and install that portion with out removing the carrier. I am not set up where I sit right now to pull both axles.
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My elderly neighbor has asked me to re-attach his drive shaft on his F250.
Said his wife was driving and it broke the u joint or something, and he has gotten it repaired and wondered if I could put it back on. Has been sitting for a bit from what he said.
Just need to know, how I should clean up and or grease? the end with the boot on it. before I put it together. The boot looks to be zap strapped, is that standard?
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We just purchased a new 2012 F 350. Love it, however when shoping forgot about getting one with a step. Have found step and handle available (OEM) but need to know how hard/easy to install it on our current tailgate. I gather from another post the handle part is easy but what about the step itself?
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How hard is it to install the upfitter switches and the fog lights? Is it all plug and play?
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Installing a Pop N Lock on a 2016? What were the wire colors you tapped into?
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I will change the cluster lights to blue LEDs.
Some "leftover" questions:
How do I get the needles "clear" instead of red?
How to remove and reinstall the needles the "right way" (e.g. calibration)
Everything else I could find here in different posts.
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I have a problem with an 2000 F250 7.3 6spd. Recently, the "key in the ignition" chime kept dinging even when no key was in the ignition. I read in the forums that a wire can be disconnected to stop the chime. The problem is that after I re-install the cylinder lock, I cannot move the key to the off position to remove the key. I can rotate it to start and run, but it won't move backwards to the off or acc position.
The truck has this little lever that normally needs to be pushed to allow key to be released, but even after pushing that, turning the steering wheel back and forth, and messing with the tilt, I still can't get the key into the off position. I have removed the cylinder and it looks good. It rotates properly and I can remove the key, but only when it isn't installed. I tried replacing the ignition switch, but the lock cylinder still doesn't move.
I have an 04 F250 that I've tried swapping the lock cylinders from the 04 to the 00, but it still doesn't turn. What might be the cause/fix? Also, the 2000 F250 has a intermittent chirping/squeaking sound under the dash that happens even when the batteries are disconnected - might this be a malfunctioning vacuum motor? It happens even though the truck hasn't been driven for a week.
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