Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: After Auxiliary Tank Added Truck Runs Then Dies Out
Feb 24, 2016
I bought a 2003 F550 Super Duty 4WD, cab and chassis truck. It has a 7.3 TD. Real nice truck. I bought it to turn it into a wrecker. I removed the factory fuel tank (was behind the real axle inside the frame rails.) I installed a 50 gallon aluminum tank behind the cab on the frame rails. The rear tank has to be removed for the wheel lift.
Any way I have everything installed and now the truck dies out after a few minutes. It starts up fine then dies out like its starving for fuel. The tank I installed has a sump pickup (tank came off a freightliner, so its not some home made thing I just welded up in the garage)
I was thinking about installing an auxiliary lift pump as the auxiliary tank is a bit higher than the factory tank, but I want to solve the issue not throw parts at it. I thought at first injectors but it runs perfect after I prime it so my guess is its not the injectors.
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My truck started running poorly with an intermittent miss about 6000 miles ago. The miss gets more consistent when the tank is below 1/2. Fill it up and the miss goes away. No codes, shop that does a lot of V10 camper work could not figure it out.
My guess is that the fuel pump is going out and it overheats when the tank is low. The problem is getting progressively worse. Now it misses slightly with 3/4 tank and even a full tank sometimes.
Plugs have been changed, fuel filter has been changed, and the shop found 3 COPs that were bad before all this new intermittent miss started. The truck runs ok at wide open throttle.
Am I just nursing a bad fuel pump that will leave me standed soon? Truck has 170,000 mile with original fuel pump.
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Getting these lean codes P1131, P1151, P0171, P0174. I was getting a knock sensor code before but not now. It will not idle it just dies and runs rough till I get at higher rpms gotta feather the brake and gas to go anywhere.
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So I just bought my first car, a 2003 F250 Super Duty with a 5.4 V8 gas engine with 150,000 miles that I will be using to tow my horse trailer. It has some things I need to fix. The main issue is that it wont start.
When I first went to look at it I tried jumping it, as the battery was dead and I still couldn't start it, though it was turning over. The previous owner then tried jumping it the next day, got it started and met me half way where I bought the truck. Turned it off where we met and it started right up again and I drove it home. It sat in my driveway overnight and then wouldn't start the next day, though it is turning over like before.
The battery is only a month old. There is another sensor issue where they had to disconnect the dash or the truck would randomly stop running. I believe it's the speed sensor? I received the repair reports from the dealer saying "code B1352 in memory for ignition key fault" and they removed an aftermarket remote start. "four U1027 and other U codes found, replaced crankshaft sensor".
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So I've been having this problem that sometimes when I am turning the truck dies. It doesn't stutter or anything it just shuts off and will start right back up. It doesn't do it all the time either. Was also having an issue where the windshield wipers would shut the truck off too. But I don't think that's the same problem.
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1999 F250 7.3 240k miles .... This is the second truck to act like this on me after I cleaned the in tank filters.
I had to cut the fpr spring to 30lbs for the truck to start fine cold and idle ok but has no power. When hot it wants to die and or dies at idle and has next to no power. ( I'm guessing from lack of fuel) but it's the only way for me to use it. With a new spring and 60ish lbs of fuel pressure, they won't even start.
I cleaned the in tank filters. New fuel filter. new oil. rebuilt the ipr. unplugged the ipc. no loss of boost. checked my uvch, wiggled all harnesses with no difference. I also tried dropping the tank again in case I pinched the return line but that made no difference.
I'm guessing that I need new injectors. I'm not close to anyone with a computer nor can I afford to throw away any more money at the moment.
Totally stumped and cannot seem to find a definitive answer online so far. Both trucks ran somewhat ok before and got worst once I dropped the tank and cleaned the filters which increased the fuel pressure. This is my second truck to act this way.
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Simple enough the truck starts then after about 30 seconds it bogs down and dies. I am getting these codes.
705 Transmission Range Sensor Out of Position
708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
720 Output Speed Sensor Insufficient Input
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid A- Short Circuit
Sounds to me like the converter it locked up. What do you think? Its a 5.4L
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So I have been troubleshooting a few cooling issues and I am currently at a loss of WTF is going on with this thing. The truck is a 99 5.4L SD and has no heat and was burping a little coolant.
The truck was originally burping coolant out of the overflow tank. After verifying that it was not a head gasket by all means except the exhaust gas test. I replaced the overflow tank and cap.
Now the truck is holding pressure fine but I do not have heat. Here is what I have done:
I replaced the blend door actuator--no heat
I went to flush the heater core and since the quick disconnects were such a bitch to get off I decided ti replace it while I was at it. --still no heat,
New thermostat 195 deg --no heat
The radiator is brand new
Supposedly the water pump was replaced by the previous owner I have all the receipts for the truck so I could double check
Truck seems to circulate coolant fine i measured temps at the water outlet with an IR thermometer peaking at about 175~10 deg due to accuracy of the thermometer and heat loss due to thermal variations the lower radiator hose and reservoir coolant temps were around 76~10 degrees so the radiator is working as advertised . Truck doesn't overheat, granted after draining and replacing the coolant the temp gauge did climb some while driving until i worked out all the air pockets but still didn't overheat.
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I know this isn't the typical question, but I had this stereo put in last week and it went to the rear parking grid screen and I cannot get it to reset to factory settings using the reset button, disconnecting power, etc. How to get it to reset so I can restart the unit?
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Its a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test good. Tested plug c1048 wires with digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the epc solenoid bad or is it pcm. I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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I purchased a new F250 with the Auxiliary Switches. I would like to use them for some LED lights, both front and rear. Where is the point that I can tap into to them? I found the fuses for them, but can not find the point where I can attach the wires.
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I would like to install some lights under the bed rails to light up the inside of my bed at night.
There are many kits available, any specific set or brand you all recommend?
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I have a 2007 King Ranch F250 that had 18" rims on it. I just put a new set of 2008 KR 20" tires & rims on my truck and now the ABS light is on. Does increasing the tire/rim size mess with the ABS? If so how can I remedy this?
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Was thinking it was around 38 gallons but I'm thinking it's less than that. I have a 1999 Super Duty V10 with the long bed.
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I bought a 2016 F-250 Lariat, Crew Cab, Short Bed, 4X4, 6.2 a couple weeks ago. One thing I had to have was remote start. My truck was not manufactured with remote start so the dealer installed the Ford 1 way remote start system. The system works fine however the air conditioning fan runs on the lowest speed when remote starting until I put my key in the ignition at which time it reverts back to wherever it was set when I shut the truck down. The whole point of the remote start for me is to get a head start on the truck cooling off but with the fan on low when remote starting it defeats the purpose. How I can change the setting so that when I remote start the fan runs on high? Dealer is clueless and the settings in the truck only allow to turn the system on and off and run time duration.
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My truck has been broke down for a few months and I just got it started a few days ago my alternator was bad so I replaced it yesterday I also replaced the map sensor now I have a hypertech installed in it and showing a Wastegate fail error code and anyways my truck only from a dead stop acts real sluggish and 3 times in a row when I go up a fairly steep hill it will almost instantly die just go and then it doesn't want to start for a while after I roll it back on level ground now I can back up a hill and no problem its only when im heading uphill its really weird
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I had a new Fuel Pump put in the cheaper plastic one into my 2001 F250 5.4 with a 112,000 miles.
Problem I am having since getting it back is when filling the gas tank up it will shut the pump off at 3/4 tank. I then have to sit there playing the squeezing game to get more gas in. The vent line looks fine no kinks in it and the tank looks level so what could be the issue causing me this headache?
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Just got back from a 2500 mile trip and the 800 mile DEF warning came on. Went to a DEF pump but it just filled the neck. Went to another DEF pump, same . Went home and used a Ford DEF jug with the Ford spout. It still will not go in. If I squeeze the jug, I can hear a little bit dropping into the tank.
The vent and fill pipes are not kinked. The vent hole in the fill tube looks clear. I washed off the top of the tank since there is a vent there.
Still no fill. I do not have a bore scope to look in the fill tube. I ran a 1/2 inch flexible hose down the fill tube until it stopped. Still no fill.
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How hard is it to drop a gas tank from 2001 F250 short bed? It is a gasoline, not a diesel truck. I need to remove the filler neck to modify it and I cannot disconnect the hose from the neck filler to the tank while the tank is in the installed position. So, I want to drop it so I can have more leverage to pull it off or cut it off and put new one on.
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2003 F350 6.0L ... 171,000 miles ... 5,100 since oil change 15W-30 at the shop ...
I was driving on the interstate (50 miles of driving) struggling to maintain 70-75 mph at 2,200RPMs. I would accelerate and RPMs would go up to 3,000 but no speed. Before I could pull off speed slowed to 50 before dying. Sat on the side of the road 30 minutes before I could get it started. Had to give it gas. No misfires just quietly started. Couldn't go over 30 mph. Towed it to my destination 135 miles.
Volts on 7Pin FICM read fine.
Checked the fuel fulters. Air Filter. Tank for debris. Nothing.
My coolant reservoir was lose and I noticed a lot of coolant in the driverside front wheel well and down the left side of the undertruck. Reattached after checking FICM. Hope that was all it was cause I couldn't find any leaks.
I had Planned to have the oil changed before the return trip before this all happened. New to Diesel engines but I like a challenge. Where do I go next?
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