My 99 250 XL only has heat, and the blowthru vent air which in Florida, might as well be heat also. LOL.
Since the vents and everything is there, what all and how hard would It be? I have an extra dash control that I can put since mine doesn't have the ac option on it
The latest addition to the driveway (2012 F250 XL 6.2) is getting ready to be geared up for it's tour of duty. The one thing that was on the would-be-nice but not must-have list was cruise control. This truck doesn't have it, which wasn't a deal breaker because the truck was way inside my budget.
So anyways, while researching hitches, tonneau covers, steps, etc. I came across this : [URL] ....
Is this all I need to install the speed control? I would assume the dealer would have to get into the logic and enable something, but is this switch really all the hardware I need to buy?
My 1999 SD was originally a Work Truck without cruise. I'd like to add cruise of some sort (factory or after market), but also trying to keep the cost and difficulty factors low.
Have any of you SD drivers ever done this and if so, what you went through?
I read in a thread about how fog lights need the auto light sensor or something in the kit to be installed and flashed.
My truck is a 2012 f250 XLT that I bought left over from a podunk town IN illinois. It does not have fog lights but it Does have automatic head lamps. So Im very confused on what kit to order to add fog lights to my truck.
I've been looking at adding an additional diesel tank to my F-250, since the stock tank only holds some 38 gallons. However, I do not want to lose the space on the bed and have been looking at tanks that are mounted under the bed.
Most tanks I see are welded steel, completely overkill and accordingly priced. I'm wondering if a second stock tank pulled from a junkyard might fit in well, but haven't lowered mine yet to check the complete dimensions.
I recently purchased an 06 F250 XLT Crew Cab. I want to add the factory automatic headlights to it. Is there anymore to it than the photocell and the light switch that I need to make it all function? I'm adding the factory driving lights and getting the automatic headlight switch with the driving light option. I tried the search function but came up empty.
View 12 RepliesIs it possible to add the factory keyless entry without replacing the complete dash harness? I have an aftermarket unit I can add but I'd rather have oe if possible. Truck is an 2003 f250 v10.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 2001 F250 XLT and it came with the standard power paddle mirrors. I would love to add the towing mirrors (preferably heated with signals), but what I am wondering is if the connectors for the mirrors are the same. Also would my truck that came with the standard paddle mirrors be wired for turn signals and heated options? How would I test for this? Also do all XLT's come prewired for the hardwire keyless entry pad if they have keyless entry?
View 1 RepliesLooking for some info on wiring up some Day Lights Running Lights on a 2016 F250 with diesel engine? Thinking of adding LED lights to front of vehicle for day time use.
View 13 RepliesI did this years ago in my 04 Mini Cooper, although there were no vacuum lines, just about a 30 wire wiring harness. simple enough, extended each wire 1 by 1 so it reached where i needed it to be for the new location.
How hard would this be to move it? i haven't even taken the control panel out of the dash yet, i will do that tomorrow and see what's back there, it's been a while since i removed one so i don't recall what the wires were like, if there were vacuum lines, etc.
Until tomorrow when i can look for myself, if there is enough slack in the entire harness/vacuum lines/etc to move it slightly up/down/left/right, but in the same general area? I don't really want to move it, but here's the reasoning. my Joying android double din head unit doesn't fit. it fits in the opening in the dash behind the bezel:
And I've trimmed the little "lips/tabs" on the bezel radio opening completely off, there's nothing else to trim, and the plastic trim around the face of the radio prevents it from sliding in flush with the bezel, so the face of the screen is parallel with the face of the a/c controls, like the stock radio is.
kind of hard to tell but if you look close where the sanding marks are, it's completely flat with the main part of the bezel. normal double din installs in 99-04's i believe you only have to trim either the top/bottom, or the side tabs depending on the unit/stereo installation kit/trim pieces, but usually double dins will fit after trimming these tabs. this android unit is slightly larger due to the plastic trim around the screen (not removable, it's part of the actual screen) so that's why i'm having a hard time.
The only thing i can think of is to completely remove that plastic "bar" that's right in between the radio and the a/c controls, the one that's sort of rounded on the front. if i remove that, the radio will fit, but then it will cut into the a/c controls. now i'm not sure if i can maybe trim more bezel off directly under the a/c (there's not much of the bezel left directly under it to even trim) and move the a/c down just enough to allow the radio to fit right above it....or do something more in depth, and relocate it completely, either somewhere else on the dash, maybe in my future full length custom console i plan to build to house a subwoofer or two, as well as cup holders etc....or, which i think would be my favorite but the most work, and probably not even worth it because i THINK there's vacuum lines on the controls, is to move it to the overhead console like the same exact control is mounted in my excursion (which controls the rear air). i think i even have a spare excursion console that i could use so it houses the controls like stock and looks 100% factory rather than fiber glassing etc...i'd really like that option, it'd give me more space in the bezel to mount my clarion 1/2 DIN equalizer near the radio (which i probably can't if i leave the a/c in the dash) and it would keep me from possibly putting the a/c in the console, that's a last resort for me i think.
This is sorta neat how they moved it, i'd assume there may be enough play in the harness to move it here without having the cut/extend anything? that's what this thread is for essentially, so i can find that out .. I also don't know if i want to even put the a/c there because I'm not 100% sure yet, but i may bring my console (at an angle/curve) all the way up to that point on the dash where my console build will meet the dash. Not sure if I'm going to stop it below that point and retain the stock pull out cup holders and little cubby, or just remove that completely and bring the console to the bottom of the actual bezel. Looking for any pics of the back of the a/c controls (again, 2004 f350, non digital controls, same as in that last picture above). As well as info on how to go about extending things if it's doable without being over the top work to complete it.
I'm from SC where we are currently getting our rainfall for the next 3 years, so it's an occasion to find leaks. My 2001 F250 has developed one right in the middle of the passenger side dash, I saw it running down a white vacuum tube and dripping off to the floor mat. Is there a place in the cowl that will hold water and leak?
View 3 RepliesI have a f250 with 6.8l engine. I can get air thru the defrost and to the floor, but no air thru the dash vents on me. I have traced all vacuum lines and they seem fine.
View 1 Replies1999 F250.. What would cause my cruise control to work sometimes and not others. it may work today and not tomorrow.
View 2 RepliesI've just bought 2001 f-250 crew cab and when I push the cruise control on the steering wheel it does nothing. Maybe a fuse or does my year have one of those master cylinder switches?
View 12 RepliesI have a 2003 f-250 5.4l and the cruise control quit. If you press the on and coast it will honk the horn so I am thinking switches on the steering wheel or the clockspring. I need to test those. Everything else works fine....
View 6 Replies2000 F250 Super Duty cruise control not working. I looked through a lot of threads on this subject and cannot pin point my problem. Cruise control was working, had to slow down wile approaching a town, back on the highway and now it won't turn on.
Looked at the brake pressure switch, it was till good but was the old type but had the recall harness on it. Bought a new one and replaced it anyways. Still nothing. All my brake lights work, I also did the Cruise control diagnostic and it passes everything. No lights on my dash are on, speedometer works, horn works.
The only thing I did not check is the Vehicle speed sensor. Even though my speedometer works and my ABS light is not on, can this still be the problem? If so how do you test it? Do I just remove it and test continuity?
Just bought a 2003 5.4 6 speed 4x4 F250 .. The cruise control does not work at all. The only fuse I can find in the owners manual is a 2 amp one .. it is in good shape .. Where do I look now to solve the problem??
View 8 RepliesJust bought this pickup is a 2011 F250 xl with the 6.2l. The service 4x4 flashes on the dash. The 4x4 shift motor fuse blows instantly when replaced even with the vehicle off. I then went and disconnected the plug ins from the shift motor and tried a new fuse and it blew again. Not sure where to go from here.
View 2 Replies2015 F250 diesel. I am hooking up an air pressure gauge inside the cab to report the pressure on my rear aftermarket air bags. The pressure reading will come from a tap on the actual pressure line, but I need 12vdc to operate the backlight on the gauge. I have found a bundle of loose wires under the steering column, 4 of which are firewall pass-through wires for the upfitter switches. Do one of the remaining wires in the bundle is an accessory power wire? I need a plain key-on accessory wire connection, not a dash-light connection.
I am using one of the upfitter switches to switch my on-board air compressor and a second switch to inflate/deflate the air bags. Want to save the other 2 switches for future use.
2001 Ford F-250 7.3 Lariat, Crew cab, 8 ft bed. Have had the truck since about 2007 and 4x4 has never worked. It has the typical ford "self rotting" vacuum lines (which have all been replaced along with the hubs themselves). Took it to a mechanic a few years back and he n-word rigged it (for a lack of a better word) and bypassed a lot of vacuum stuff and it still didn't work. The weird part is this-- the 4x4 light is permanently on on the dash, even if the switch is in the 2wd position. Flip the switch and nothing happens. No sounds, nothing. No mechanic can fix it and I have yet to find a forum with someone having the same problem. (Worth manual transfer case swapping it?)
View 10 RepliesThe light on dash for 4X4 stays on no mater where the switch is placed I have it in 2 wd and it stays on. Where I need to start looking.
View 4 Replies